Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation

[BootXL76]

Totally forgot about the knob. Thanks for reminding me!

where is power & ground for the key 200.4 coming from? Is it in the harness?

yes, it’s wired into the power and ground in the ACM harness and has the fuse in line (you’ll see it in the pictures on the site)…. The harness has resistors wiring in line as well (from what I understood when I was talking to the owner about it)

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[Milous]

For anyone familiar with the "PlugnPlay" kits... some of the choices are a bit confusing to me... and there are no Maverick-specific instructions...

https://plugnplaykits.com/collectio...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41184613007550

What I am looking for:

A basic amplifier for the 6-speaker system in my XLT w/LUX, I am not adding a subwoofer, and I am more interested in better clarity than I am with having a very loud system, and of course "plug and play" as I don't want to cut any factory wiring.

Current components:
Tweeters - Stock (may update in the future)
Door speakers - Installed JBL Club 622's (6.5")
Rear speakers - Installed Kicker 43DSC404's (4")

I was looking at the Kit #46 (Audiocontrol ACM-4.300 & 17' harness)

1. The harness (can't tell if there is one or two 17' harnesses) shows 4 connectors, not sure how these hook up - I was assuming the factory radio harness would plug into one of the connectors, and another connector to go back to the radio... but there are 4 large connectors...

2. I was going to install the amp behind the rear seat. II assume I have to run my own power and ground wire. Can power be run to the battery under the rear seat, or do I need to run it to the engine bay? Not sure what the optional "4 gauge amp kit" consists of (power/ground wires?) 4 gauge seems like overkill for the power wire, seems 10 gauge would be ok...?)

3. Can the 17' harness (one or two?) be run under the floor/below door trim all the way up to and behind the radio and fit ok?

ANY help or suggestions would be MORE than appreciated.

 

[BootXL76]

For anyone familiar with the "PlugnPlay" kits... some of the choices are a bit confusing to me... and there are no Maverick-specific instructions...

https://plugnplaykits.com/collectio...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41184613007550

What I am looking for:

A basic amplifier for the 6-speaker system in my XLT w/LUX, I am not adding a subwoofer, and I am more interested in better clarity than I am with having a very loud system, and of course "plug and play" as I don't want to cut any factory wiring.

Current components:
Tweeters - Stock (may update in the future)
Door speakers - Installed JBL Club 622's (6.5")
Rear speakers - Installed Kicker 43DSC404's (4")

I was looking at the Kit #46 (Audiocontrol ACM-4.300 & 17' harness)

1. The harness (can't tell if there is one or two 17' harnesses) shows 4 connectors, not sure how these hook up - I was assuming the factory radio harness would plug into one of the connectors, and another connector to go back to the radio... but there are 4 large connectors...

2. I was going to install the amp behind the rear seat. II assume I have to run my own power and ground wire. Can power be run to the battery under the rear seat, or do I need to run it to the engine bay? Not sure what the optional "4 gauge amp kit" consists of (power/ground wires?) 4 gauge seems like overkill for the power wire, seems 10 gauge would be ok...?)

3. Can the 17' harness (one or two?) be run under the floor/below door trim all the way up to and behind the radio and fit ok?

ANY help or suggestions would be MORE than appreciated.

so the t harness that you see on the right plugs into the ACM, and the stock ACM harness plugs into the other side…. The white plug in the t harness plugs into the other white harness at the end of the 17 ft harness. The one I installed I ran through the passenger side behind the ACM, t harness fits in there but does take most of the available room, then connected the white plug behind the glove box. For running the wiring to the back from there, If you find the thread “upgrading the base XLT system” thread (or something like that) posted by flimay, he shows the stock wiring housing that runs along each side under the plastic trim. There’s also a way to tuck the wiring under the trim, but it might be a little thick to really shove up in there. Some have wired it under the middle console (I haven’t taken it all the way out but did release the back and work my rear floor liner under it), where it’s like 5 or 7 bolts and comes out easier than one would think. Some have ran it under the truck (not what I’d do, but hey)

if you have a hybrid, you’ll be able to run the amp power to the battery under the rear seat (if an ecoboost, you’ll need to run it to the battery bay through the rubber grommet in the firewall)…. (A good stock ground location is on the passenger wide wall above the amp bracket)

For power wire on the 4.300, I wouldn’t do any smaller than 8 gauge personally, might be able to get away with 10, but I rather go too heavy a gauge than too light. I ran 4 gauge and then to a disti block and 8 gauge from the disti block, even though my current setup would be fine with just 8, gives me the flexibility to add other pieces if I so choose in the future without having to yank and re-run (which I already did because I used the kit that came with HS8 initially, before I yanked it and replaced everything (again)

 

[Milous]

^^^^ VERY helpful info, THANK YOU.

 

[Luchie64]

Hello All,
I bought the 8" Kicker Hideaway, because the factory system just has no low end, my question is, do you recommend tapping off the rear speaker wires, or the going to the front speakers. I ask this because some of you where saying the rear speakers don't receive the same frequency band as the front four. Will that matter for just a Sub woofer? any input will be appreciated.

 

[Red Ryder]

Hello All,
I bought the 8" Kicker Hideaway, because the factory system just has no low end, my question is, do you recommend tapping off the rear speaker wires, or the going to the front speakers. I ask this because some of you where saying the rear speakers don't receive the same frequency band as the front four. Will that matter for just a Sub woofer? any input will be appreciated.

Yes, it especially matters for your subwoofer, unless you are adding some sort of bass-restorative device. The factory system's rear channels are equalized to limit the bass response to the small, cheap, 4" drivers back there. The door woofers (front channel) receive full range audio and would be ideal for getting the lower tones a subwoofer will need. The doors and dash are effectively the same signal, with the tweeters bass-limited by their integrated crossover/capacitor.

 

[Luchie64]

Yes, it especially matters for your subwoofer, unless you are adding some sort of bass-restorative device. The factory system's rear channels are equalized to limit the bass response to the small, cheap, 4" drivers back there. The door woofers (front channel) receive full range audio and would be ideal for getting the lower tones a subwoofer will need. The doors and dash are effectively the same signal, with the tweeters bass-limited by their integrated crossover/capacitor.

Red,
That is what I thought was posted in past threads. I see no problem running the signal wires from behind the head unit to the rear.
Thanks for the clarification!
P.S I already ready upgraded the front four with the Powerbase 65C-FD's speakers...worlds of difference!

 

[Luchie64]

Somebody mentioned that they ran the wires from the HU to the back, vie the center console vs running them around & below the door sills. Any opinion on this? Is the center console difficult to remove enough to fish some wires under?

 

[BootXL76]

Somebody mentioned that they ran the wires from the HU to the back, vie the center console vs running them around & below the door sills. Any opinion on this? Is the center console difficult to remove enough to fish some wires under?

The hardest part about wiring them under the center console will be figuring out how you hide them from the center console to the HS8. Should be able to fish them under the carpet at that point, but without having done so not sure how easily that’s accomplished (would also depend where you’re running them to, I.e. where you’re mounting the HS8). From taking out just the back 2 bolts of the center console and lifting it, along with reading what another user mentioned about it lifting out of there rather easily, that part seems easier (just as easy? Again, without haven’t ran them under the console myself it’s hard to say) than running them under the trim IF you’re removing the trim. It is possible to tuck and hide, say, speaker wiring and a remote wire under the door jam trim without having to remove it (just might not be the clean east way to do it)

 

[Luchie64]

The hardest part about wiring them under the center console will be figuring out how you hide them from the center console to the HS8. Should be able to fish them under the carpet at that point, but without having done so not sure how easily that’s accomplished (would also depend where you’re running them to, I.e. where you’re mounting the HS8). From taking out just the back 2 bolts of the center console and lifting it, along with reading what another user mentioned about it lifting out of there rather easily, that part seems easier (just as easy? Again, without haven’t ran them under the console myself it’s hard to say) than running them under the trim IF you’re removing the trim. It is possible to tuck and hide, say, speaker wiring and a remote wire under the door jam trim without having to remove it (just might not be the clean east way to do it)

BootXL76, Thanks for the response, I'll probably just take the door sill route.

 

[jc888888888]

When you order speakers from Crutchfield, how do you get the free harness and bracket? If I select "Maverick" for vehicle it comes up "does not fit", and if I add the accessories they are charged at regular price...

You need to call in and they will add it to your order for free

 

[DrDan]

BootXL76....
First of all.....thank you so much for your excellent documentation as we've all seen and read your audio installation journey. It will help those who wish to do a DIY upgrade of their sound systems....and it also helps others realize that they really don't want to go through all of that!!

I fall into the latter category.....I have a nice car audio installation shop near my house that I'm going to take advantage of. So for me, the only question is WHICH components to ask them to use... I'd like to stick to using the FoMoCo head unit and other than the sub.....no added power amp.

My Musical tastes are varied.....played lots of brass ensemble with pipe organ stuff in hight school up through college.....and I still enjoy listening to that "long haired" stuff. So to pick up the bass pipes of a pipe organ you need a good, tight subwoofer. Don't like the loud, distorted fuzzy sound the rappers tend to prefer. I also like some rock and country on occasion.

For the Front:
The Morel Maximo 6, the Hertz Uno K170, and Memphis Audio SRX60C are the three I am leaning towards. Since there is a tweeter up front it doesn't make much sense to get coax drivers in the front doors. Which would be best? Which should I avoid?

For the Rear:
Back here a coax design might work well.....here are the ones I "think" might be best:
Morel Maximo Coax 4, Focal RCX-100 4" coaxial, Hertz dcx100.3 2-way coax

For the Sub:
These have been mentioned all over this board.....and I have no idea which meet my criteria for good, clean, tight bass that fits my musical tastes mentioned above. I also prefer to put it behind the back seat rather than take up space in the storage bins UNDER the back seats....but I might have to.
JBL BassPro SL 8"
Kicker Hideaway 8"
Rockford Fosgate PS-8
Kicker 45CSTB84 8" tube (probably won't fit behind the seat)

It also appears I'll need a LC2i Pro to properly distribute the power to all the speakers.

So......for those of you who are familiar with how all of these speaker sound.....what would you recommend?
Please cast your vote below......Thanks!

 

[Jakep47]

Everything in this thread has been super helpful I just have a question about the front door speakers on the non B&O system. I went with the Hertz K170's from Crutchfield and got the mounting rings and the harness adapters. I also Have these Boom Mat Speaker Enclosures. I am wondering If I would be able to use those enclosures with the speakers? I know I should be able to check once I have the factory speakers out, but I was hoping to put everything together before I even start on the project. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[BootXL76]

Everything in this thread has been super helpful I just have a question about the front door speakers on the non B&O system. I went with the Hertz K170's from Crutchfield and got the mounting rings and the harness adapters. I also Have these Boom Mat Speaker Enclosures. I am wondering If I would be able to use those enclosures with the speakers? I know I should be able to check once I have the factory speakers out, but I was hoping to put everything together before I even start on the project. Thanks for any help you can give.

so going on this picture here, A looks like you have two of them inside of each other here?
There’s a chance you could get it to work like that, my gut feeling says it’s going to push it out too far into the door panel. I say that because o had issues with the with the powerbass plug and plays on my first install because of the thickness of the foam. Once you attach the speaker though it may compact the boom mat down enough to not be an issue.
Now my opinion based on experience with the boom mat. I had put boom mats on the rear 4” and I didn’t like the way they sounded vs. without, they sounded like trash, like they were inside of a little tin box (like it had no room to push air). That was also a 4” speaker so a 6.5/6.75 may not have the same issue.

I hear you tho on wanting to have it put together and ready to go, that’s what I did with my hertz ck165-F, but with that boom mat it may be something you have to play around with before you have them read to zip into the openings. Here’s my hertz once I had em ready to mount (I drilled a hole in the side of the adaptor ring for the wiring harness to go through, as you’ll have t connect it in front of the plastic door insert that you’ll mount the speaker to).

the one other thing you might run into is the depth of the boom mat, not sure how deep they are but it's possible they could interfere with the window track. I want to say I’ve read on some board where people used the boom mat and cut the back part off, to still focus the air The speaker is pushing straight back (and gives them more airspace instead of “suffocating” them in a tiny enclosure).

good luck! Happy to try to help if I can, if you have any other questions or run into anything Else.

 

[jewc75]

Im not a fan of speaker baffles, they always end up making the speakers sound like crap to me.

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