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- #17
Good eye Chris, from what I saw it was a bad crimp. It may be both, usually there's a crimp AND a solder. I haven't seen or held one in mine hand so I don't know for sure. Someone else mentioned a buss bar as well, I saw where there is a buss bar connecting a bunch of positive cables. Looks like a junction box. If I power down the 12v, I will most likely disassemble the whole junction block, since I will be in there. These electrical junctions have to be exactly done right. They have to have the right fasteners torqued to the correct torque, soldered/crimped perfectly, to ensure perfect operation and unwavering reliability. Then sealed to ensure environmental separation to prevent contamination to the joint.
Over time you don't want additional resistance to effect operation or to mislead the ECM. This is a very key connection point.
Over time you don't want additional resistance to effect operation or to mislead the ECM. This is a very key connection point.
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OP
- Thread starter
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Thx nash for info. I have been looking into this 12v system, just doesnt seem right to me, however there is a reason why its setup this way.
Well you should have enough info from these threads to arm yourself. Good luck with it and please report back and tell us how your problem was resolved, thx
Well you should have enough info from these threads to arm yourself. Good luck with it and please report back and tell us how your problem was resolved, thx
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My truck was perfect until late last month when it died for no reason what so ever. Ford Pass/Connect was not active, nothing was left on in the truck. Turn the key and nothing happened. No power whatsoever. 12vdc battery (lead to lead) was 0vdc - completely dead. Charged said battery. It is holding 12.6vdc, however, the positive and negative posts inside the engine compartment read 2.5vdc or less and truck will not power up. Was able to place a jump pack inside the engine compartment across the jump leads. Power was restored to all dash indications and the truck ran perfectly. After driving for about 10 minutes or so, parked and turned off the truck. Totally dead again. Voltage at the 12vdc battery was 12.6vdc. Voltage inside the engine compartment was 2.5vdc.
After reading a bunch of the "Dead Maverick" posts, I pulled out the engine compartment fusebox and the cable in question seems "wiggly".
The image above is a view from under the removable fusebox assembly. When I wiggle on the cable, it has play, but the nut is not loose at all. I have not pulled back any of the heatshrink/insulation materials, but pretty sure there is an open there preventing 12vdc from getting from the battery to the buss bar/fusebox.
My truck's build date was 15 Dec 2021. Currently has 7k miles and avg of 43.8mpg combined city/hwy. I love my truck and waiting for the 26th to bring it in to be serviced and fixed.
After reading a bunch of the "Dead Maverick" posts, I pulled out the engine compartment fusebox and the cable in question seems "wiggly".
The image above is a view from under the removable fusebox assembly. When I wiggle on the cable, it has play, but the nut is not loose at all. I have not pulled back any of the heatshrink/insulation materials, but pretty sure there is an open there preventing 12vdc from getting from the battery to the buss bar/fusebox.
My truck's build date was 15 Dec 2021. Currently has 7k miles and avg of 43.8mpg combined city/hwy. I love my truck and waiting for the 26th to bring it in to be serviced and fixed.
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4-07-22 build date
XLT
2-3 miles per gallon drop seen after 1500 mils
voltage delta from Battery posts (14.64v) to the Under the hood posts (14.74V) is 100mv with Truck on.
Going to measure this voltage delta at 1700 miles and see if the cable is becoming more resistive over time....
Aluminum is not a ideal conductor but with enough Nickel plating it should be a sufficient to be used. But how do you get quality control right.
The temperatures needed to reflow solder on aluminum hardware is much higher then say copper or copper plated steel. Almost 2x more heat as the aluminum is dissipating the heat faster then the thermal rise needed to reflow solder and make it lequius. If not you will have semi reflowed solder that is prone to CTE failure over time.
Also during high current loads the thermal equilibrium in the power harness is not equal. You will have hot and cold zones in the power harness. Thus adding to the CTE mismatch of the missmetal joints. Thick Nickel plating will negate that but who knows what and how thick per pcs in the harness?
Typical Mechanical Engineering 101. how can this even pass QA.... Oh I know the person that would reject such a design retired and is replaced by a 20 something bean counter. and boy will they have some more additional beans to count when this is all said and done.
A side note to most of the ailing issues with new things. 20 somethings are wonderful at solving NEW problems than their older counterparts as new problems are new and we need a new solution. I have young interns and engineers working for me and they are an absolute asset I could not live without.
But they are terrible at solving old problems as they have no understanding of why what and how. Always start from scratch and negate 50 to 100 years of known proven concepts and practices, to reinvent the wheel at every turn. just mind blowing how program managers don't see these things coming miles away.
XLT
2-3 miles per gallon drop seen after 1500 mils
voltage delta from Battery posts (14.64v) to the Under the hood posts (14.74V) is 100mv with Truck on.
Going to measure this voltage delta at 1700 miles and see if the cable is becoming more resistive over time....
Aluminum is not a ideal conductor but with enough Nickel plating it should be a sufficient to be used. But how do you get quality control right.
The temperatures needed to reflow solder on aluminum hardware is much higher then say copper or copper plated steel. Almost 2x more heat as the aluminum is dissipating the heat faster then the thermal rise needed to reflow solder and make it lequius. If not you will have semi reflowed solder that is prone to CTE failure over time.
Also during high current loads the thermal equilibrium in the power harness is not equal. You will have hot and cold zones in the power harness. Thus adding to the CTE mismatch of the missmetal joints. Thick Nickel plating will negate that but who knows what and how thick per pcs in the harness?
Typical Mechanical Engineering 101. how can this even pass QA.... Oh I know the person that would reject such a design retired and is replaced by a 20 something bean counter. and boy will they have some more additional beans to count when this is all said and done.
A side note to most of the ailing issues with new things. 20 somethings are wonderful at solving NEW problems than their older counterparts as new problems are new and we need a new solution. I have young interns and engineers working for me and they are an absolute asset I could not live without.
But they are terrible at solving old problems as they have no understanding of why what and how. Always start from scratch and negate 50 to 100 years of known proven concepts and practices, to reinvent the wheel at every turn. just mind blowing how program managers don't see these things coming miles away.
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my hybrid was built 12/1/2021 recd 12/23/21, have 11500 trouble free miles so far. ZERO issues or complaints. avg 42.1 mpg over last 9k miles. That is 40 hwy, 60 city.
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My truck was perfect until late last month when it died for no reason what so ever. Ford Pass/Connect was not active, nothing was left on in the truck. Turn the key and nothing happened. No power whatsoever. 12vdc battery (lead to lead) was 0vdc - completely dead. Charged said battery. It is holding 12.6vdc, however, the positive and negative posts inside the engine compartment read 2.5vdc or less and truck will not power up. Was able to place a jump pack inside the engine compartment across the jump leads. Power was restored to all dash indications and the truck ran perfectly. After driving for about 10 minutes or so, parked and turned off the truck. Totally dead again. Voltage at the 12vdc battery was 12.6vdc. Voltage inside the engine compartment was 2.5vdc.
After reading a bunch of the "Dead Maverick" posts, I pulled out the engine compartment fusebox and the cable in question seems "wiggly".
The image above is a view from under the removable fusebox assembly. When I wiggle on the cable, it has play, but the nut is not loose at all. I have not pulled back any of the heatshrink/insulation materials, but pretty sure there is an open there preventing 12vdc from getting from the battery to the buss bar/fusebox.
My truck's build date was 15 Dec 2021. Currently has 7k miles and avg of 43.8mpg combined city/hwy. I love my truck and waiting for the 26th to bring it in to be serviced and fixed.
Isn't this the problem -- this endpoint should be 'soldered' onto this metal area here? I am pulling this idea halfway from the ether but I thought this was the issue many people were having.
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Stupid question, is this a picture of the cable termination on your truck? In the picture the harness termination has failed completely.My truck was perfect until late last month when it died for no reason what so ever. Ford Pass/Connect was not active, nothing was left on in the truck. Turn the key and nothing happened. No power whatsoever. 12vdc battery (lead to lead) was 0vdc - completely dead. Charged said battery. It is holding 12.6vdc, however, the positive and negative posts inside the engine compartment read 2.5vdc or less and truck will not power up. Was able to place a jump pack inside the engine compartment across the jump leads. Power was restored to all dash indications and the truck ran perfectly. After driving for about 10 minutes or so, parked and turned off the truck. Totally dead again. Voltage at the 12vdc battery was 12.6vdc. Voltage inside the engine compartment was 2.5vdc.
After reading a bunch of the "Dead Maverick" posts, I pulled out the engine compartment fusebox and the cable in question seems "wiggly".
The image above is a view from under the removable fusebox assembly. When I wiggle on the cable, it has play, but the nut is not loose at all. I have not pulled back any of the heatshrink/insulation materials, but pretty sure there is an open there preventing 12vdc from getting from the battery to the buss bar/fusebox.
My truck's build date was 15 Dec 2021. Currently has 7k miles and avg of 43.8mpg combined city/hwy. I love my truck and waiting for the 26th to bring it in to be serviced and fixed.
Cheers.
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No question is a stupid question.
This is the positive battery terminal cable from the battery to the positive bus bar under the fusebox. Mine does not look like that (I have not pealed anything away from the mate of the cable to the eye connection), but when you move the cable side to side, it seems to move. None of the other connected cables do that. There is one more termination point somewhere along that harness that may also be constructed as poorly. Not sure where that term point is located.
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You are correct.Isn't this the problem -- this endpoint should be 'soldered' onto this metal area here? I am pulling this idea halfway from the ether but I thought this was the issue many people were having.
OP
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- #27
Griffen, excellent explanation, what do you think about crimping a COPPER lug on this aluminum battery cable?
The whole thing makes me nervous too, but for 43 mpg I'm willing to roll the dice. And carry a starter pack just in case. I drive a CMAX for work, hybrid has been a flawless workhorse. Figure if I get it and have issues Ford can't fix to my satisfaction, by then there'll be other small truck options out there.
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- #29
Ok, i am going to release my repair/material,
Its not a crimp, so no special crimpers needed, no fighting for extra room to work.
Its coppper/clad, but wait its not needed because theres NO COPPER involved(wrong material for this application).
I will be willing to install/repair your hybrid.
This is the repair i would have done on mine, add a little deox, and tape.
Its not a crimp, so no special crimpers needed, no fighting for extra room to work.
Its coppper/clad, but wait its not needed because theres NO COPPER involved(wrong material for this application).
I will be willing to install/repair your hybrid.
This is the repair i would have done on mine, add a little deox, and tape.
Should be showing that to FordOk, i am going to release my repair/material,
Its not a crimp, so no special crimpers needed, no fighting for extra room to work.
Its coppper/clad, but wait its not needed because theres NO COPPER involved(wrong material for this application).
I will be willing to install/repair your hybrid.
This is the repair i would have done on mine, add a little deox, and tape.
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