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Does anybody know where I can find the wiring diagram to the harness that feeds the input to the B&O amp? I’d like to create preamp connections before the amp to wire to upgrade amplifiers.
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B&O System wiring question - using the input to the amp
- Thread starter Parrotheadad
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The amp gets fed via canbus and a2b formats.
I haven't seen anyone yet who has used that and completely replaced the Maverick amp. There are probably discussions on other Ford forums talking about these connections on B&O but I can't offer any specific links.
Here's a diagram that was recently posted to a FB group.
The PAC AP4-FD31 instructions tell you to remove the amp completely (and it plugs in to the harness at the amp so no going into the dash… unless I read it wrong)
I haven’t gotten to that yet as I’m still working on the sub enclosure
Hopefully I’m not spreading false information
I haven’t gotten to that yet as I’m still working on the sub enclosure
Hopefully I’m not spreading false information
The PAC AP4-FD31 doesn't seem like that great of a deal since it appears to go for $100 more than the Axxess and is only 4 + 1 (well, technically 2-channel sub, but w/e) versus 10 channels and integrating a more fully featured DSP.
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I don't work in the industry so I have to pay list price or whatever Crutchfield or Amazon price for PAC, Axxess, etc. I see the PAC for $403 on Amazon this morning. I agree that the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 has better features, but it's $560 direct.
From there I would do Kicker, Morel or JL components because I like the silk tweeters in all 3 of these. I'm not sold on the dash tweeter location due to the axis and reflections, and probably would do A-pillar if it could be done without disturbing the airbag. If the B&O wasn't bi-amped I would have tried that with the Focal components I have now.
From there I would do Kicker, Morel or JL components because I like the silk tweeters in all 3 of these. I'm not sold on the dash tweeter location due to the axis and reflections, and probably would do A-pillar if it could be done without disturbing the airbag. If the B&O wasn't bi-amped I would have tried that with the Focal components I have now.
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Ok WoW that changes things dramatically. I don’t think it’s a good idea to mess with digitally controlled components. I was trying to get to a clean preamp source to avoid the grunge and possible noise from using high level outputs converted to low. Also trying to fit 2 amps in the space is a challenge. Did you keep the original sub hooked up in your build and if so do you think it contributes that much? If I could delete it and cover the hole I could put another amp in that space. Thx
I’m not paying retail either for stuff, I was just going with what the shop suggested
They swear by PAC so idk
Your mileage may vary
They swear by PAC so idk
Your mileage may vary
some have left the original sub, I think @Darnon for one. mine is gone. the area is curved, you'll see it when you pull the B&O 6x9 out. but it has good depth, you can fit a pretty sizeable amp there.
my kicker key 500.1 fit next to the rear window motor and I have nothing where the B&O 6x9 used to be. you could put like 4 Kicker Key amps down there.
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Well it’s intriguing to know there is a way to accomplish eliminating the the B&O amp and feeding your amps a clean signal but of course it comes at a cost. I think I will start with the LOCs and see how livable the result is running using the B&O amp outputs. I’m hoping by using quality components that it won’t be too noisy. The worst that can happen is I’m not pleased and decide if spending the extra money for the Axxess solution is what I’d need to do. I have owned several systems with tweeters in the A pillars and have enjoyed that type of sound stage it produces. Careful consideration and placement in the A pillars could be done as long as you don’t disrupt the air bags that lie behind the covers. What do you think about doing that? Thank you guys for all info on the interface solutions.
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Has anyone tested how “clean” (as in a flat signal) the signal output is from the B&O amp? I am adding an after market amp and planning on inputting line/speaker level input as a source to my 5 channel amp from the B&O amp output. I plan on running Morel 2 ways in the front and 4" coat Morels in the rear. I am on the fence if a signal processor with signal summing will make a big difference. Any thoughts?
hey there, you asked that same question twice in 2 different threads, and I'm going to answer here because this thread is closest to what you're asking.
first of all, what front components are you using? if they are inefficient / high power required, you probably do need a replacement amp. however, if they're fairly efficient you probably should try connecting them as-is to the B&O amp and see what you think. I do not know that anyone has ever found documentation or tested the B&O amp to see what output it has, but it is 5 channels.
Front tweeters x 2
Front door mids x2
6x9 'sub' in infinite baffle enclosure
I have Focal RSE-165s on the B&O amp and I am quite pleased with them. But if there are components that require/recommend 50-75wrms and up, especially 3 piece components, you could need a more powerful amp for the front soundstage.
The rears still would not be amped and in my opinion that's fine for anyone using the stock speaker mounts. You really only need to amp the rear if you're doing custom fiberglass pods, which you can see on a variety of high-budget 'show' trucks. I just don't see the value in going through the effort to amplify a 4" or 4x6 that is aimed right at a rear passenger's head. It's better to fade it low and let the rear passengers enjoy the front speakers.
So, it's possible you do need a new 5 channel amp. If you get one, I would use the A2B interface and not speaker-level from the B&O because it's just going to be in the way and A2B will be a cleaner signal for sure. It's digital from the sync3 head unit.
But many people including me are using the B&O amp with new front components and then you just connect an amp for a sub to the 6x9 speaker-level output.
Yeah, if you're going full out amping everything you probably might as well get an A2B DSP. It might also be able to circumvent the splitting going on for the front stereo/center channel, but I don't think many people have installed one to confirm (I believe @volksnuts was?)
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