Another method to mount Kicker Hideaway / amp board to back cabin wall

[Red Ryder]

I plan to remove the unused OEM "B&O bracket" and mount a panel for the Hideaway. By not using the existing bracket, I think I can keep the Hideway from being pushed into the seatback. I plan to mount a panel close to the back wall without drilling through to the bed or having to rely on existing mount points that are used for other purposes.

There are solutions for this, notably from Weld Nuts, which make stainless fasteners that use an expensive structural adhesive. For what I need, they are overkill and cost-prohibitive.

I've been researching alternatives and decided to try elevator bolts and JB Weld. I wanted to test the strength and adhesion before relying on them to mount equipment.

The bolts I purchased are these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-Plain-Coarse-Thread-Elevator-Bolt-2-Count/3723270

I needed a jig to hold them in place until the JB Weld cured, so I made a crude fixture out of some 1/8" ply and brass scrap. I am sure someone with a 3D printer could whip out something a lot snazzier:

1. Jig parts to hold elevator bolt while adhesive cures

2. Bottom if jig has two rare-earth magnets to hold it in place

3. Assembled jig with elevator bolt

When I installed an aftermarket receiver hitch on my 2018 Colorado, I removed the factory bumper hitch and I still have it. It served as a good test platform to test the elevator bolt / JB Weld on.

4. Jig magnetically secured to test fixture (old bumper) with spring compression holding elevator bolt during curing.

5. JB Weld cured and bolt adhered to bumper.

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[Red Ryder]

Also noteworthy is that I had planned on using the original formula JB Weld, but had some JB Kwik Weld on hand and used it instead. Per JB Weld's site, it is 60% as strong as the original. It certainly was strong enough in my case, the 1/4-20 stud yielded without so much a budge of the Kwik Weld.

 

[vertigo12369]

Like what you’re thinking here. My thought was to use some of the holes in the cross beam for rivnuts - this looks much more secure. What are your thoughts on bracket removal? Drill out the spot welds?

 

[Gilbillygucci]

This is fantastic. I like this idea alot. I will definitely be copying it to mount some other things I am installing back there. Wonder how this will do with vibrations. I have had mixed success with using JB weld on stuff that shakes or vibrates.

 

[Red Ryder]

I have had mixed success with using JB weld on stuff that shakes or vibrates.

I'm confident with using the standard formula JB Weld for this application based on using it in harsher conditions previously over a protracted period. Plus, the consequences of failure would be inconvenient, but not catastrophic.
That said, if you want to ease your mind, you can use the crème de la crème of epoxies, Loctite Hysol. Homebuilt aircraft enthusiasts regularly bet their ass on that stuff.

 

[Red Ryder]

Like what you’re thinking here. My thought was to use some of the holes in the cross beam for rivnuts - this looks much more secure. What are your thoughts on bracket removal? Drill out the spot welds?

I think I'm going to purchase the cheap air nibbler from Harbor Freight and cut it out then debur. After I mount the elevator bolts, I will cover the back wall with Kilmat. That will effectively hide the bracket remnants.

 

[Red Ryder]

The Harbor Freight pneumatic nibbler has been clearanced and was out of stock at my local store.

I found a cheap drill-end nibbler (~$20) on Amazon and it worked extremely well on the bracket:

 

[Red Ryder]

Elevator bolts installed:

Now time to soundproof and fabricate a mounting panel.

 

[Red Ryder]

Done. The mount is 3/4 MDF to which Kilmat 80 was applied and covered with sub-box carpet.
Kilmat also applied on Maverick's back wall. No rattles and sounds great. I did move the HS-10 down to the bottom edge of the mount to ensure easy no-interference seat latching.

 

[uh50]

Done. The mount is 3/4 MDF to which Kilmat 80 was applied and covered with sub-box carpet.
Kilmat also applied on Maverick's back wall. No rattles and sounds great. I did move the HS-10 down to the bottom edge of the mount to ensure easy no-interference seat latching.

A very professional looking install. I love it!

 

[MavDave]

Any pics with the seat up? I know we won't be able to see it but I would like to see it closed. I am 91.36% sure I am going to do something similar.

 

[Red Ryder]

Any pics with the seat up? I know we won't be able to see it but I would like to see it closed. I am 91.36% sure I am going to do something similar.

Perhaps you missed this from my earlier post:

I did move the HS-10 down to the bottom edge of the mount to ensure easy no-interference seat latching.

But if I must:

 

[MavDave]

Perhaps you missed this from my earlier post:


But if I must:

well I guess I should watch the videos as well. Thanks

 

[potatosalad]

Thanks for taking the time to post how you did this Red Ryder! I followed the same basic steps and put a quick video together here showing the results.

 

[Red Ryder]

Thanks for taking the time to post how you did this Red Ryder! I followed the same basic steps and put a quick video together here showing the results.

potatosalad, it is great to see someone else use that method, and your video documents the Hideaway install very well!

And I wish those Hoel harnesses would have been around when I started on my project, they look well crafted and definitely a time saver.

Thanks for the effort and time to make and post the video. Your video and install look superb!

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