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Agree that 2 & 3 look strange. The harness in that area should have some type of protection on the wire. Insulation does not protect against stones, etc. Blue tape is odd too - that's $0.10 in extra cost for no apparent reason. Edit: mine looks the same.

Not tires. I'd say someone unplugged/damaged a wheel speed sensor.

I bought both the Llj and plugnplay harnesses. Ended up using the hu adaptor harness and then built my own input and output harnesses from the pieces. I stripped the speed wire and twisted the cable for the speaker input and bought 16AWG TXL wire and twisted it for the amp outputs. Power kit...

It's alive!

More reference info. Orange clips on scuff trim are w718230-s300 White door panel clips are w713297-s300 White clips between end cap and scuff plate are w715190-s300

60W RMS. Plan to run them full active assuming I can get wiring up to the tweeter. https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/car-audio-speakers/products/c2-650-car-audio-speakers-c2-speaker-systems-99617 Really jealous of the B&O owners right now. All wiring for full active is already there.

Sub is a JL micro sub cp108-w3v3. Box is 18.5 in long, 11in wide, and 5.125 in tall. Fits perfectly after removing the tub. Harness was purchased and then highly customized. Didn’t want to use a single connector - split it into multiple parts to make updates easy.

Also had the front speakers arrive today.

Yes, close your eyes and pull. It's better when warm. A trim tool helps. I'm adding the fumoto valve on Wednesday when I can get it on a lift. Will take some pics and report back.

Hi everyone, you only need to remove the front skid plate to change the oil (filter access). The plastic air guide pops out of the rear skid plate to provide access to the drain plug. It's an awkward process, but it does come out. Recommended you place foil to block oil from hitting the rear...

I’m right there with you. Anyway, rewatched that repair video in full resolution. The failure mode looks like separation in the ultrasonic weld between the eyelet and wire. This attachment method increases odds of wire being Al. Solder study confirms some type of plating (tin, nickel, zinc...

You could check material at the other end of the cable. It would be very surprising to see a dip soldered, unsealed Al wire connection. The busbar/fuse piece is plated Cu (current does not flow through post so it’s likely steel for higher clamp force). Remember this is a cheap car. Cu wire...

I had one for my gti. Was not as easy as I hoped. Better to spend your $$ on a nice, fine brush.

Every other set of painted wheels I have (vw, Audi, etc.) have even black or gray. It's a quality issue at the supplier. 3 of 4 are like this.

Yes, I have the same issue on my FX4 wheels. Just noticed when I swapped my winter tires yesterday. Edit: added pics.

You've probably seen mine given I live in that area. I see the same 4-5. Area 51, gray, alto, velocity, and red.

Looks like the bronco sport uses that connector on the badlands. Wonder what they have that we don’t.

It has that loop back to seal those open cavities on the connector. I’d guess it’s for CP360. Ford may be giving away the content in the engine compartment to reduce the number of wire harness part numbers.

Like what you’re thinking here. My thought was to use some of the holes in the cross beam for rivnuts - this looks much more secure. What are your thoughts on bracket removal? Drill out the spot welds?

I think we need a thread just for Top Gun reference plates.