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MGouin

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Ford Maverick 600 Miles Per Tank Hybrid Maverick club 600+


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son of a ..sven

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New personal best. Just normal driving, not attempting to hypermile or anything. The warmer Midwest temps certainly seemed to help.

PXL_20230410_135117310.jpg
What that 17 miles on the road coming down for Charles Mound? (smile)
 

chuckles

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Ford Maverick 600 Miles Per Tank Hybrid Maverick club 1681261465028

OK, me too.

I find ECO mode to be best; with a caveat. I heavily modulate to go pedal to avoid max regeneration and encourage coasting; otherwise rely on regenerative braking for coasting towards stop when safe. While lessened regen may happen naturally in Slippery mode, I prefer using the max regen at times and subjectively believe there is a further delay to ICE cut-in with ECO mode. (Is there any evidence suggesting Slippery Mode does or doesn't increase/apply differential braking in turns?)

Out here in hill country, with 1000' "mountain" climbs, 700 miles per tank is nearly unachievable. The uphill climb sucks up lotsa gas. The downhill coast isn't quite enough to efficiently recover spent energy (no real surprise). You bay area flatlanders could try up and down CA-9 from Saratoga to skyline to simulate my normal conditions out here.

A word of caution for those that try ECO. ECO mode regen "brakes" hard when engaged AFAIK without brake light warning to the people behind you. Your sudden loss of speed and their rapid closure has caused a few scares with fear of being rear-ended. Be careful when in traffic in ECO mode; either modulate accelerator pedal to delay full-on regen, or very lightly apply the brake pedal. When first playing with ECO mode, I felt it to be nearly un-drivable before learning to very delicately apply pedals.
 

blackb13

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What that 17 miles on the road coming down for Charles Mound? (smile)
That'd be nice. Unfortunately, it's my morning commute into work. Was averaging anywhere between 45-50mpg during the winter.
 

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1681261465028.png

OK, me too.

I find ECO mode to be best; with a caveat. I heavily modulate to go pedal to avoid max regeneration and encourage coasting; otherwise rely on regenerative braking for coasting towards stop when safe. While lessened regen may happen naturally in Slippery mode, I prefer using the max regen at times and subjectively believe there is a further delay to ICE cut-in with ECO mode. (Is there any evidence suggesting Slippery Mode does or doesn't increase/apply differential braking in turns?)

Out here in hill country, with 1000' "mountain" climbs, 700 miles per tank is nearly unachievable. The uphill climb sucks up lotsa gas. The downhill coast isn't quite enough to efficiently recover spent energy (no real surprise). You bay area flatlanders could try up and down CA-9 from Saratoga to skyline to simulate my normal conditions out here.

A word of caution for those that try ECO. ECO mode regen "brakes" hard when engaged AFAIK without brake light warning to the people behind you. Your sudden loss of speed and their rapid closure has caused a few scares with fear of being rear-ended. Be careful when in traffic in ECO mode; either modulate accelerator pedal to delay full-on regen, or very lightly apply the brake pedal. When first playing with ECO mode, I felt it to be nearly un-drivable before learning to very delicately apply pedals.
Ya, or forget all that and use Slippery Mode. All the gains; none of the pains.
😉
 

son of a ..sven

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Ya, or forget all that and use Slippery Mode. All the gains; none of the pains.
😉
not being snarky, but can you please explain why Slippery mode is better than ECO? Maybe I missed something (wouldn't be the first time )
 

JimParker256

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not being snarky, but can you please explain why Slippery mode is better than ECO? Maybe I missed something (wouldn't be the first time )
From my experience (following GPSman's advice), the best way to extend your mileage is to not use either ICE or battery power. Slippery mode lets your "coast" a lot longer than any other mode, while still getting a reasonable amount of charge to your battery. I typically use the ICE to accelerate to about 1-2 mph above the posted limits, the lift off fairly sharply to go into "coasting" mode, then very slowly increase the throttle to engage the electric mode, and ride that battery as long as possible.

You also learn to anticipate stop signs (or red lights) ahead, and "coast" to a stop with minimal braking action - letting the vehicle's inertia recharge the battery as you slow.

After a while, you can start anticipating when the battery will need recharging, and the ICE will engage. I try to time it so I do that when I'm going to be going uphill anyway (which almost always causes the Maverick to engage the ICE anyway). That way I'm not "wasting" battery power trying to climb a hill it won't handle, and thus depleting the battery which would make the ICE have to run longer to recharge it more.

It's a delicate dance, but it's a lot of fun learning to anticipate the programming, and after a while it doesn't take nearly as much thought - I guess it becomes "muscle memory"...

GPSman is MUCH better at this than I am, likely helped by the ScanGuage III instrumentation he's added to his Maverick. I'm hoping to get one for my birthday later this month... :rolleyes:
 

GPSMan

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What Jim Parker256 said.

Plus with Slippery mode, brake lights are always on when needed and not when not.

The engine is the same engine.
The battery is the same battery.
The motor is the same motor, no matter the mode.

I can get the exact same MPG in the three main modes: Normal/Eco/Slippery.

The truck is an instrument.
How do you want to play it?

Maximum regen is not the goal.
No wasted / missed regen is the goal.
Getting regen slowly over time/distance is slightly better than getting it quickly. Less heat generated inside the battery cells, less wear and tear on the battery cells, if you plan to do this 100,000 times, it will add up.

Coasting is the real freebie.
Regen has costs.

Regen on flat terrain, like coming to stoplights, is like an Income Tax Refund.

Income Tax Refund means you over-paid. It means you gave the government an interest-free loan.

Getting strong regen (unless going down hill) means you over-paid for you forward momentum. As the old saying goes: "slow and steady wins".

If I could do my entire commute, 40-50 mph, with zero regen, I would.

Since that's not practical, change your paradigm: try to not need regen on your commute and see what happens.
 

son of a ..sven

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From my experience (following GPSman's advice), the best way to extend your mileage is to not use either ICE or battery power. Slippery mode lets your "coast" a lot longer than any other mode, while still getting a reasonable amount of charge to your battery. I typically use the ICE to accelerate to about 1-2 mph above the posted limits, the lift off fairly sharply to go into "coasting" mode, then very slowly increase the throttle to engage the electric mode, and ride that battery as long as possible.

You also learn to anticipate stop signs (or red lights) ahead, and "coast" to a stop with minimal braking action - letting the vehicle's inertia recharge the battery as you slow.

After a while, you can start anticipating when the battery will need recharging, and the ICE will engage. I try to time it so I do that when I'm going to be going uphill anyway (which almost always causes the Maverick to engage the ICE anyway). That way I'm not "wasting" battery power trying to climb a hill it won't handle, and thus depleting the battery which would make the ICE have to run longer to recharge it more.

It's a delicate dance, but it's a lot of fun learning to anticipate the programming, and after a while it doesn't take nearly as much thought - I guess it becomes "muscle memory"...

GPSman is MUCH better at this than I am, likely helped by the ScanGuage III instrumentation he's added to his Maverick. I'm hoping to get one for my birthday later this month... :rolleyes:
longer coasting time...yeah, makes sense, thanks
 
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chuckles

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So much of what has been said is accurate and useful. However, it may not all universally apply.

Max regen is not a (worthy) goal. Avoidance of friction braking is. Vehicle control and stability are also.

All situations vary and use of Eco mode is preferential in mine. Until a manual states what is actually happening, each of us can have our own subjective views and experiences. Mine, like the terrain around me, are different from yours. However you wish to 'play' your truck is fine by me.

Use of Eco mode allows painless use of regen to control downhill speed. This is not stoplight to stoplight control, but speed limiting on a 1000' foot descent before ICE compression (another waste). The constant speed aspect of Eco control is very, very nice. The energy recovery (vs braking) is is not something provided by slippery mode. Slippery mode would accelerate on the downhills and require braking (to obtain regen) or friction braking. Nothing is for free, Eco mode requires effort of modulating the go pedal to avoid regen when costing is preferred. This how I 'play' my truck and works best for me. YMMV.

(( Go ahead and try hwy9, hwy92, page mill rd. Then comment on Eco vs Slippery. ))
 
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son of a ..sven

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So much of what has been said is accurate and useful. However, it may not all universally apply.

Max regen is not a (worthy) goal. Avoidance of friction braking is. Vehicle control and stability are also.

All situations vary and use of Eco mode is preferential in mine. Until a manual states what is actually happening, each of us can have our own subjective views and experiences. Mine, like the terrain around me, are different from yours. However you wish to 'play' your truck is fine by me.

Use of Eco mode allows painless use of regen to control downhill speed. This is not stoplight to stoplight control, but speed limiting on a 1000' foot descent before ICE compression (another waste). The constant speed aspect of Eco control is very, very nice. The energy recovery (vs braking) is is not something provided by slippery mode. Slippery mode would accelerate on the downhills and require braking (to obtain regen) or friction braking. Nothing is for free, Eco mode requires effort of modulating the go pedal to avoid regen when costing is preferred. This how I 'play' my truck and works best for me. YMMV.

(( Go ahead and try hwy9, hwy92, page mill rd. Then comment on Eco vs Slippery. ))
Insightful comments..and worthy to try out. Thank you.
 

GPSMan

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So much of what has been said is accurate and useful. However, it may not all universally apply.

Max regen is not a (worthy) goal. Avoidance of friction braking is. Vehicle control and stability are also.

All situations vary and use of Eco mode is preferential in mine. Until a manual states what is actually happening, each of us can have our own subjective views and experiences. Mine, like the terrain around me, are different from yours. However you wish to 'play' your truck is fine by me.

Use of Eco mode allows painless use of regen to control downhill speed. This is not stoplight to stoplight control, but speed limiting on a 1000' foot descent before ICE compression (another waste). The constant speed aspect of Eco control is very, very nice. The energy recovery (vs braking) is is not something provided by slippery mode. Slippery mode would accelerate on the downhills and require braking (to obtain regen) or friction braking. Nothing is for free, Eco mode requires effort of modulating the go pedal to avoid regen when costing is preferred. This how I 'play' my truck and works best for me. YMMV.

(( Go ahead and try hwy9, hwy92, page mill rd. Then comment on Eco vs Slippery. ))
Of course. Done all that.
In Eco it's undetermined when and even if brake lights come on with stiff deceleration. You modulate the go pedal all you want. Probably no brake lamps.

I put it in Slippery and modulate the brake pedal. Same net effect. Same watt-hours of power recouped. My brake lamps are on while slowing.
Ok, since we are splitting hairs, a tiny bit less energy recouped since I'm running tail lamps an you are not. 😉

The nice thing about that gauge on the left is, hydraulic brakes do not come on until the needle hits the "peg". Keep the needle off the "peg" and you are 100% regen brakes...... until......

Until the battery is full.
My detailed observations with aid of aftermarket instrumentation shows that when the battery is "full" you won't be notified, and the needle will stay in the green, during blended, pure hydraulic, or pure engine braking.
 
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mamboman777

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Weather (no HVAC) makes a big difference. All in normal mode. Almost %99 city driving. My biggest hack: Google Maps, menu, route options, avoid highways.
 

son of a ..sven

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ok..I have only had my Hybrid a week. Forgive me for asking, but do the brake light come on any other time EXCEPT when actually stepping on the brake pedal? I hope not.
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