Yes, I have a volt meter in the socket that has a USB port that I have my dash cam plugged into. It usually stays on for about an hour or so until the voltage drops to below 12. I feel like I'm playing Russian roulette with all the dead hybrid issues but it shouldn't have to be that way. I've had no issues so far on my 2024 Hybrid but I've only had it for 2 months.
Not in my experience.
"shut off" is a relative term. You can turn off the engine and then for the next 5 minutes or so you can hear all sort of solenoids clicking on and off. I have no idea if that has anything to do with your voltage discrepancies. I would sure like to know the sequence of what all of those clicks are doing and what they systems they are working with.
You are correct. I did not wait around to see how long the 12V power port stayed live, but there certainly is a difference between "running" voltage and "non-running" voltage.
No, not right away. After a long drive it can stay on over an hour as the battery will have a full charge.
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried your steps, but they don't work on my '23 XLT. Your step "Start Hybrid Engine" remains the sticking point (how?). When I "start" my truck, the system powers up and the noisemaker starts, but the ICE remains off. Perhaps it would start if I turned the heat on high, but I'm looking for a way to do simple diagnostics with the engine idling, such as a leak check after an oil change. Usually such modes pass accelerator pedal position to the throttle body too.
Press the go pedal before shifting.
Several ways. Easiest is to just turn AC to max (either heat or cool).
I was under the impression that the 80% cutoff is point where the max float charge voltage reduces to prevent over charging battery with the up to 15.4 volts not when battery is fully charged.
Thanks. Another member schooled me on this too: Key fully on and "started" (as if to drive), but leave it in Park and just stomp on the throttle. I'm pretty sure there's also a diagnostic mode whereby the engine will actually idle (without generator load), and the accelerator pedal operates the throttle body as if it were on a cable like the olden days. I'm still searching for THAT secret...
Thanks for the suggestion, but this doesn't quite do it either. Entering ET mode in my XLT requires holding the brake pedal AND the OK button while turning on the key. I suspect this is a good starting point but so far the truck seems to operate normally in ET mode, and I just want it to idle.
Interesting. That would make some sense, gives some adjustment if you went with another battery chemistry.
