How To - Adding Aux Power Input for Flexbed (w/ Photos)

[Maverick_Innovation_Designs]

I use the truck as a workstation so I hooked up bed lights and light pods to the 12V Flexbed (E-DIY). For the hybrid, it's especially satisfying to be able to power things for an hour on end without the truck having the idle. The primary downside is that only works with the keys in the ignition or it would drain the 12v battery, which is less than ideal when I'm constantly stepping away or camping in the bed. Here's what I did to (safely) add an aux power input, which enabled me to power everything from the truck OR an external power bank.

1. Installed a Fuse Block

a. I mounted a fuse block with a strip of VHB to the panel behind the upper portion of the cubby cutout. The positioning is important, if it's installed high enough then there's no interference with the storage cubby (see photo below).​

​

b. You can see the outline of the storage cubby. There's just enough space that it doesn't interfere with the wires or the fuse block itself.​

​

2. Wiring DPDT switch

a. I ran a 16 AWG power wire from the fuse box to the bed pillar where the Flexbed connector was stored. I made a mounting bracket for the switch that would sit flush, so it was out of the way but still easy to access.​

​

b. From there I wired up a DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch. It's a fancy way of saying it's a switch with three states (0, 1, or 2) rather than the normal on/off. The left and right sides of the switch are separate, so I wired one for the power and one for the ground. State 0, the middle row is connected to nothing. In State 1, the middle and bottom rows are connected. In State 2, the middle and top rows are connected. This way, there is never any voltage cross (since the Flexbed normally goes up to 14.6V when the truck is running while power banks normally stay at 12V).​

​

3. Add aux power input

a. I ran additional 16 AWG wire up up to one of the gromets and connected it to a waterproof connector. Since I had some generic TE connectors, that's what I used. I then terminated it to the DPDT switch before closing everything up.​

​

4. Final Notes

​

a. I got a USB-C (PD)-to-12v cord so I can run things off the power bank or my phone charger (lasts about 1-2 hours). The user experience is the same as using a normal switch, just with the added convenience of being able to connect external power. Since I installed it, I have considered mounting the aux power input all the way to the underbench storage instead. I've also considered running a split on the Flexbed power to the input jack of the power bank (or jump starter in my case), so the power bank could charge as it's stored but still available to run accessories off of.​

​

I hope this helps anyone interested in doing the same! I also put together a switch kit on my shop (includes switch, mounting bracket, and Flexbed connector) for people who want to implement something similar.​

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[commadorebob]

Very cool solution.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I use the truck as a workstation so I hooked up bed lights and light pods to the 12V Flexbed (E-DIY). For the hybrid, it's especially satisfying to be able to power things for an hour on end without the truck having the idle. The primary downside is that only works with the keys in the ignition or it would drain the 12v battery, which is less than ideal when I'm constantly stepping away or camping in the bed. Here's what I did to (safely) add an aux power input, which enabled me to power everything from the truck OR an external power bank.

1. Installed a Fuse Block

a. I mounted a fuse block with a strip of VHB to the panel behind the upper portion of the cubby cutout. The positioning is important, if it's installed high enough then there's no interference with the storage cubby (see photo below).​

​

b. You can see the outline of the storage cubby. There's just enough space that it doesn't interfere with the wires or the fuse block itself.​

​

2. Wiring DPDT switch

a. I ran a 16 AWG power wire from the fuse box to the bed pillar where the Flexbed connector was stored. I made a mounting bracket for the switch that would sit flush, so it was out of the way but still easy to access.​

​

b. From there I wired up a DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch. It's a fancy way of saying it's a switch with three states (0, 1, or 2) rather than the normal on/off. The left and right sides of the switch are separate, so I wired one for the power and one for the ground. State 0, the middle row is connected to nothing. In State 1, the middle and bottom rows are connected. In State 2, the middle and top rows are connected. This way, there is never any voltage cross (since the Flexbed normally goes up to 14.6V when the truck is running while power banks normally stay at 12V).​

​

3. Add aux power input

a. I ran additional 16 AWG wire up up to one of the gromets and connected it to a waterproof connector. Since I had some generic TE connectors, that's what I used. I then terminated it to the DPDT switch before closing everything up.​

​

4. Final Notes

​

a. I got a USB-C (PD)-to-12v cord so I can run things off the power bank or my phone charger (lasts about 1-2 hours). The user experience is the same as using a normal switch, just with the added convenience of being able to connect external power. Since I installed it, I have considered mounting the aux power input all the way to the underbench storage instead. I've also considered running a split on the Flexbed power to the input jack of the power bank (or jump starter in my case), so the power bank could charge as it's stored but still available to run accessories off of.​

​

I hope this helps anyone interested in doing the same! I also put together a switch kit on my shop (includes switch, mounting bracket, and Flexbed connector) for people who want something more plug-n-play for their setup.​

I am looking to do the same, have not got a round tuit yet.
If you have a power bank with DC charge input check to see what it's limit is. I have seen around 10 amps. Some have dual DC inputs which would lower the recharge time. Might require heavier wire on a 30 amp from key on fuze. Also check over voltage lnput limit on power bank and install voltage stabilizer to just under that protected voltage if necessary and you want it to charge when the truck goes as high as 15.6 or more.

 

[Headbanger]

Nice job and great write up!

 

[Maverick_Innovation_Designs]

I am looking to do the same, have not got a round tuit yet.
If you have a power bank with DC charge input check to see what it's limit is. I have seen around 10 amps. Some have dual DC inputs which would lower the recharge time. Might require heavier wire on a 30 amp from key on fuze. Also check over voltage lnput limit on power bank and install voltage stabilizer to just under that protected voltage if necessary and you want it to charge when the truck goes as high as 15.6 or more.

The DC input is actually 15V at 2A, so it might be even more suited to pull power directly from the truck. I'm assuming there is a BMS that is limiting the input, but it might be worth adding a 2nd BMS in that case just to be safe. I was planning on putting solar on the roof to help with the daytime charging when I'm overlanding, that would've required the BMS anyways.

 

[BeardedMarine]

Nicely done.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

The DC input is actually 15V at 2A, so it might be even more suited to pull power directly from the truck. I'm assuming there is a BMS that is limiting the input, but it might be worth adding a 2nd BMS in that case just to be safe. I was planning on putting solar on the roof to help with the daytime charging when I'm overlanding, that would've required the BMS anyways.

If Max input is 15v at 2amp is really small battery or at least BMS limit normally
15v at 2 amp would be float mode and the power block battery is mostly charged. The power block will have its own built-in BMS which will limit input amps. The question what is the max voltage it will accept before it turns off and will stop charging until input voltage drops. The maverick can supply at least 15.6 volts. If the power block has multiple input ports (I think Bluetti I was looking at had 2 and you could get a cable to split the input with EACH PORT accepting 10.8 amps continuous, so you would need a 25-30 amp charge circuit). Seems like it was high voltage protected at 15v. So when ambient temp is around 55°F the hybrid at least goes over 15volts. So your power block need to have 16v over voltage protection to charge from truck full run time.

 

[Maverick_Innovation_Designs]

If Max input is 15v at 2amp is really small battery or at least BMS limit normally
15v at 2 amp would be float mode and the power block battery is mostly charged. The power block will have its own built-in BMS which will limit input amps. The question what is the max voltage it will accept before it turns off and will stop charging until input voltage drops. The maverick can supply at least 15.6 volts. If the power block has multiple input ports (I think Bluetti I was looking at had 2 and you could get a cable to split the input with EACH PORT accepting 10.8 amps continuous, so you would need a 25-30 amp charge circuit). Seems like it was high voltage protected at 15v. So when ambient temp is around 55°F the hybrid at least goes over 15volts. So your power block need to have 16v over voltage protection to charge from truck full run time.

If you want 25-30A, then you definitely need to wire in a dedicated circuit. You could pull it off the battery terminals, but that might bypass the main fuse block where the DC-DC converter routes power too. In the even that the DC-DC can't compensate, then it would pull off the battery.

Most of my trips would be 30-50min one way, so 120W charging would probably be sufficient because it would add up. If you're pushing 240W input, you either have a really big battery or you're not driving much. And you were right, my power bank is on the smaller end, only ~350Wh which is usually more than enough for what I would need each night.

 

[BoskoPColtrane]

How big of a power bank can you charge? I want to charge a 2000w power bank. Thanks.

 

[Maverick_Innovation_Designs]

How big of a power bank can you charge? I want to charge a 2000w power bank. Thanks.

I'm charging a 350Wh power bank, so it's easy to charge on the go and move it around. If you do want to charge something like that, I would recommend putting in a dedicated line directly from the 12v battery. I believe someone else on the forums recorded the DC-DC converter can do 100-150A, so that's about 1200-1800W. That's plenty to charge your power bank, likely more than it can handle with 12VDC input.

 

[BoskoPColtrane]

Thanks

 

[Onewheelsqueel]

I use the truck as a workstation so I hooked up bed lights and light pods to the 12V Flexbed (E-DIY). For the hybrid, it's especially satisfying to be able to power things for an hour on end without the truck having the idle. The primary downside is that only works with the keys in the ignition or it would drain the 12v battery, which is less than ideal when I'm constantly stepping away or camping in the bed. Here's what I did to (safely) add an aux power input, which enabled me to power everything from the truck OR an external power bank.

1. Installed a Fuse Block

a. I mounted a fuse block with a strip of VHB to the panel behind the upper portion of the cubby cutout. The positioning is important, if it's installed high enough then there's no interference with the storage cubby (see photo below).​

​

b. You can see the outline of the storage cubby. There's just enough space that it doesn't interfere with the wires or the fuse block itself.​

​

2. Wiring DPDT switch

a. I ran a 16 AWG power wire from the fuse box to the bed pillar where the Flexbed connector was stored. I made a mounting bracket for the switch that would sit flush, so it was out of the way but still easy to access.​

​

b. From there I wired up a DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch. It's a fancy way of saying it's a switch with three states (0, 1, or 2) rather than the normal on/off. The left and right sides of the switch are separate, so I wired one for the power and one for the ground. State 0, the middle row is connected to nothing. In State 1, the middle and bottom rows are connected. In State 2, the middle and top rows are connected. This way, there is never any voltage cross (since the Flexbed normally goes up to 14.6V when the truck is running while power banks normally stay at 12V).​

​

3. Add aux power input

a. I ran additional 16 AWG wire up up to one of the gromets and connected it to a waterproof connector. Since I had some generic TE connectors, that's what I used. I then terminated it to the DPDT switch before closing everything up.​

​

4. Final Notes

​

a. I got a USB-C (PD)-to-12v cord so I can run things off the power bank or my phone charger (lasts about 1-2 hours). The user experience is the same as using a normal switch, just with the added convenience of being able to connect external power. Since I installed it, I have considered mounting the aux power input all the way to the underbench storage instead. I've also considered running a split on the Flexbed power to the input jack of the power bank (or jump starter in my case), so the power bank could charge as it's stored but still available to run accessories off of.​

​

I hope this helps anyone interested in doing the same! I also put together a switch kit on my shop (includes switch, mounting bracket, and Flexbed connector) for people who want to implement something similar.​

I was told in a thread I started, that you make harnesses. Sent you a message, looking for help with a T harness for the CHMSL to power a cap brake light. Thanks.

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