Upgrading the XLT base audio system / door panel removal - finished with lots of pics.

[Evil2ltr]

Was just thinking today how lame the base OEM system is.

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[A Dodge that drives Fords]

Thank you! I was hoping someone would upgrade the sound system to see what was in the doors.

 

[mamboman777]

I have not installed the tweeters yet, I think they will fit perfectly in the original location with a little modification, exterior size is exactly the same, I'll need to get everything else installed at the same time though. I have the morel crossover but will not use it. The Kicker Key has a crossover that is tunable and better option than the passive crossover from the kit.



Kicker Key has a DSP in the amp, it's pretty basic but can correct some things and it will even tune itself, I'm looking forward to get it installed, I think just the Kicker Key and component system will sound amazing.

I have been interested in the kicker key, too.

Can you tell me. Is the wiring/amp for the radio behind the back seat? Are the front speakers wired separately? Is there a separate run for woofer and tweeter or just one?

 

[Peps]

I will need some youtube video before attempting this as I am too good to disassemble and then be left with extra screw, clips.

in term of sound dampening I expect people also start adding some other material under the hood and the wheel arches.
I appreciate both sound quality and silence quality.

 

[millertyme15]

Thank you for the pics and info. I am doing this immediately in my XLT when I get it. At least replacing the factory speakers. Did you get to the rear speakers yet??? What did you install for them?

 

[flimay2k]

Can you tell me. Is the wiring/amp for the radio behind the back seat? Are the front speakers wired separately? Is there a separate run for woofer and tweeter or just one?

Just updated the first post with a lot more info on everything. Take a look.

There's no amp in the base system just the radio feeding the 4 speakers, front speaker and tweeter is the same wiring. In my case I reused the speaker wires and run new wiring for the tweeters.

 

[flimay2k]

Thank you for the pics and info. I am doing this immediately in my XLT when I get it. At least replacing the factory speakers. Did you get to the rear speakers yet??? What did you install for them?

I won't do anything with the back speakers, they are so bad in terms of location and how they are installed straight in the plastic trim that I think it's better to not touch it. I also have the radio set as driver's only as this lowers the volume on the back speaker and they just slightly fill in with some sound but almost everything you hear comes from the front in my case.

 

[mamboman777]

Just updated the first post with a lot more info on everything. Take a look.

There's no amp in the base system just the radio feeding the 4 speakers, front speaker and tweeter is the same wiring. In my case I reused the speaker wires and run new wiring for the tweeters.

Great info, thank you. I think I'd like to run the key amp for front and rear. I guess for the hybrid the most difficult part is going to be running a power cable from the back seat of my hybrid to the center stack.

 

[uh50]

Thanks for the detail post with the photos. Good info with an idea of mod difficulty to the radio system. I have one question. Did you happen to find any auxiliary inputs into the radio module?

By the way, Amazon has a dealer that is selling Ford compatible Radio modules with upgraded Sync 3 features. No information on SiriusXM yet with the module. Although, the dealer wants the vin to program the module. I don't see how this would help since the XL and XLT radio features are set. But they say their modules w/ Sync 3 will work with the XL. Without navigation it is $299, with nav it is $399.

Here is the link.
About this item

• Sync 3 APIM Module: 8G Non-navigation module is only used for Sync 3, Support Carplay and Android Auto, VIN pre-programming is sent at the time of purchase, no need to go to the dealer, Shipped from The U.S
• Keep original functions:can realize carplay and Android auto. Compatible with all functions of the original car, including seat ventilation and heating, steering wheel heating, seat adjustment, climate adjustment, active parking assist, reversing image, intelligent voice control , Sirius and other functions.
• Plug and play:Sync 3 APIM Module 8G Non-Navigation, plug and play, on-site printing instructions
• Compatibility: Applicable to Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with 8" SYNC 3 system. This does not apply to MyFord Touch (SYNC 2) screen components. 8" Sync2 MyFord Touch
• After-sales service: If you have any questions, please send an email to us. In case of emergency, you can contact us by phone. We have a professional technical and after-sales team to serve you.

I still want to find out if they will program the Lariat features into the module.

The more info I find out, the more unanswered questions I have.

 

[advhawk]

Thank you for the detailed write up with photos. I have the base sound system in a '18 Jeep Compass and it's so much better compared to the sound system in the XLT.

 

[Red Ryder]

Great info, thank you. I think I'd like to run the key amp for front and rear. I guess for the hybrid the most difficult part is going to be running a power cable from the back seat of my hybrid to the center stack.

Would you even need to do that? The 12V battery is right there under the rear seat near the mounting location for the sub and amp.
Unless, you plan to to mount the Kicker Key behind the glovebox? Otherwise, all you need is a loopback harness for the four channels.

 

[Red Ryder]

flimay2k,
Thanks for the great write-up of your installation. You have basically changed my mind about how I was planning to use the Kicker Key in my Maverick (once it arrives). I like the your idea of bi-amping the components and leaving the rears alone. I assume the way that you’re configured, the headunit’s fader works as expected. Thanks for detailing the speaker leads and polarity information, very helpful!
I have a few questions about your installation if you don’t mind.

I did not see a radio harnesses mentioned, I assume that you cut the speaker leads near the plug and fabricated a loop-back harness using the 9-way speed wire for the headhunt-to-amp-and-return-to-speaker harness connection? And additionally ran new wire from the dash tweeters to the Kicker Key?
Any details or elaboration is welcome on this.

I have no direct experience with the Kicker Key 200.4, other than researching it thoroughly. I understand that it can provide a power-on amp trigger, are you using that to start the Hideaway or the Hideaway’s own trigger? Also, you said that you used the fronts to provide speaker-level inputs to both the Kicker Key and the Kicker Hideaway? If so, how and where did you split the signal?
Again, any details are very appreciated.

I plan to mimic your install closely, I hope you consider that flattery. I normally like the Kicker KS-series for their wonderfully smooth silk-dome tweeters, but I’m thinking about trying these Morels.

 

[flimay2k]

flimay2k,
Thanks for the great write-up of your installation. You have basically changed my mind about how I was planning to use the Kicker Key in my Maverick (once it arrives). I like the your idea of bi-amping the components and leaving the rears alone. I assume the way that you’re configured, the headunit’s fader works as expected. Thanks for detailing the speaker leads and polarity information, very helpful!
I have a few questions about your installation if you don’t mind.

I did not see a radio harnesses mentioned, I assume that you cut the speaker leads near the plug and fabricated a loop-back harness using the 9-way speed wire for the headhunt-to-amp-and-return-to-speaker harness connection? And additionally ran new wire from the dash tweeters to the Kicker Key?
Any details or elaboration is welcome on this.

I have no direct experience with the Kicker Key 200.4, other than researching it thoroughly. I understand that it can provide a power-on amp trigger, are you using that to start the Hideaway or the Hideaway’s own trigger? Also, you said that you used the fronts to provide speaker-level inputs to both the Kicker Key and the Kicker Hideaway? If so, how and where did you split the signal?
Again, any details are very appreciated.

I plan to mimic your install closely, I hope you consider that flattery. I normally like the Kicker KS-series for their wonderfully smooth silk-dome tweeters, but I’m thinking about trying these Morels.

Fader works as everything else in the factory radio. I looked for any harnesses available and did not find anything, so I had to cut the 2 front speakers wires, I tried to do in a way that I can make everything back to factory. I have 2 wires for the signal going back feeding the amp and sub and the 9 way to the front feeding the component system. I'm using the DC offset on both and it's working fine, but I have the remote that I could use in case I need. I could use the Key remote wire to turn the hideaway on and off, might be more reliable this way I think I'll give it a try.

For the signal feeding both the Key and the hideaway I simply cut the connector wire from both to the right length and made a simple Y connection and split the signal for both.

The only thing I'm not 100% happy in the hideaway, it's good for 90% of my listening but at higher volumes it starts making some weird noises. I'll keep it for now but will likely upgrade that in the future.

 

[Red Ryder]

Fader works as everything else in the factory radio. I looked for any harnesses available and did not find anything, so I had to cut the 2 front speakers wires, I tried to do in a way that I can make everything back to factory. I have 2 wires for the signal going back feeding the amp and sub and the 9 way to the front feeding the component system. I'm using the DC offset on both and it's working fine, but I have the remote that I could use in case I need. I could use the Key remote wire to turn the hideaway on and off, might be more reliable this way I think I'll give it a try.

For the signal feeding both the Key and the hideaway I simply cut the connector wire from both to the right length and made a simple Y connection and split the signal for both.

The only thing I'm not 100% happy in the hideaway, it's good for 90% of my listening but at higher volumes it starts making some weird noises. I'll keep it for now but will likely upgrade that in the future.

Thanks for the info!
I'll do some research for a Hideaway alternative. Did you use #18 AWG for the two signal wires to the back or larger?

 

[Abraxis]

Any chance you measured how much space is behind the back seat? I am thinking about the littlest jl micro sub and hope that there's about 6.5" of depth clearance...

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