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UPR Billet Catch Can for Ford Maverick

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Bohefus

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Most of what comes out is condensation, oil vapor and fuel but as it is mixed with water it is directed to the bottom of the oil pan. It is the crud that first comes out when the plug is pulled. Water doesn’t float so it is not recirculating because it is below the oil pickup. So I am told. In any event, unlike the clean side, it does not go into the engine via the intake galley above the valves and cause that coking problem .
The line from the PCV valve is fed back into the intake to be burned (doesn't go back into the oil pan). That's one of the main reasons Ecoboost direct injected engines end up with carbon caked on the intake valves after 60-100,000 miles on them. The dirty side catch can is installed in between the PCV and intake to "catch" this nastiness of oil, moisture & fuel.
Very good Catch cans explained Youtube video
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So I'm ready to order the UPR dirty side oil catch can for my Maverick. I was just wondering what finish people have ordered? Satin or Black?
Thanks Jeff
The wording is funny on the site - it's silver or black (might be satin silver?). I ordered black.
 

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Ordering the dirty side kit then the clean side at a later date. I have received my wife’s 2.7L Bronco’s billet oil pan plug and it’s very well machined. I’m expecting the same on this catch can. Also, UPR has been fantastic with automated order updates.
 

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I'm running the clean and dirty side UPR cans. I installed them about 1000 miles ago. I'm dumping the dirty side about every 500 miles as it is near full. It's almost all water.

I only saw one other reply from @A.Bursell with a 1,000 mile interval. Any other feedback on how often the cans are being dumped?
 

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I'm running the clean and dirty side UPR cans. I installed them about 1000 miles ago. I'm dumping the dirty side about every 500 miles as it is near full. It's almost all water.

I only saw one other reply from @A.Bursell with a 1,000 mile interval. Any other feedback on how often the cans are being dumped?
Full every 500 miles seems like something is wrong.
 

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Full every 500 miles seems like something is wrong.
Ummm yeah, that does seem like an unusually large amount of fluid.
Got me a little worried, so I checked mine.
After about 1500 miles
Ford Maverick UPR Billet Catch Can for Ford Maverick PXL_20240503_001237486
 

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I just installed the black UPR can to the dirty side on two mavericks. Was relatively easy and looks very neat. I plan on keeping these two for a long time so I just ordered two clean sides because Im told if towing or hammering it thats when the turbo (clean side) sees more action. Looks very neat like it came from Ford this way. UPR shipping was very fast also.
 
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I'm running the clean and dirty side UPR cans. I installed them about 1000 miles ago. I'm dumping the dirty side about every 500 miles as it is near full. It's almost all water.

I only saw one other reply from @A.Bursell with a 1,000 mile interval. Any other feedback on how often the cans are being dumped?
I emptied my dirty side at 800 miles was it was 3/4 full and mostly water vapor, no oil. My driving consists of 90% freeway at 2K RPM under a very light load and average traffic heading home. I work in Denver, CO at an altitude of 5280’ with low relative humidity. I’m not overly concerned with the contents in the can.
 

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When you guys talk about being "full" or "3/4 full" are you really meaning there are several inches of liquid in there? Or are you talking about close to the bottom of the element. I was thinking it was time to empty mine when I got close to the bottom of the element, but if not, maybe I can run full oil change intervals? Definitely more collection for me in the cold months vs these warmer months.
 
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I bought two OCCs but only installed the clean side. I found out that installing the dirty side is not necessary because the two hoses takes fumes from the crankcase and directs them into a OEM oil separator which does the same thing, forcing the crap to the bottom of the oil pan. A second can just defeats the purpose of the oil separator.
That doesn't entirely make sense because an installed dirty side catch can will catch more oil/fluid/fuel than the clean side. If the separator is so effective, than you wouldn't see much of anything in the can. I believe the separator is a gravity type device that is before the PCV valve to try and keep the heavier fluid from making it's way into the intake. It's not 100% effective though and you still will get more fluid in the dirty side than the clean side by far.
 
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When you guys talk about being "full" or "3/4 full" are you really meaning there are several inches of liquid in there? Or are you talking about close to the bottom of the element. I was thinking it was time to empty mine when I got close to the bottom of the element, but if not, maybe I can run full oil change intervals? Definitely more collection for me in the cold months vs these warmer months.
I think there was only 1 guy who said his can was nearly full after 500 miles (mostly water). I just had a very small amount of oily fluid after 1500 miles in mine.
 

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That doesn't entirely make sense because an installed dirty side catch can will catch more oil/fluid/fuel than the clean side. If the separator is so effective, than you wouldn't see much of anything in the can. I believe the separator is a gravity type device that is before the PCV valve to try and keep the heavier fluid from making it's way into the intake. It's not 100% effective though and you still will get more fluid in the dirty side than the clean side by far.
The occ is catching stuff before it reaches the oil separator not after. They are designed to do the same thing.
 

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So question about optional check valve. Is this a redundancy of the pcv used as a failsafe? Should I invest in check valve if I order these OCCs?
 

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The occ is catching stuff before it reaches the oil separator not after. They are designed to do the same thing.
That is partially incorrect. Catch cans and oil separators are designed to do the same thing, but the catch can comes after the oil separator, therefore, the fact that people have to empty their catch cans proves that the two work together better than just relying on the the stock oil separator.

Stock crank case vapor flow travels in this direction:

crank case > oil separator > PCV valve > PCV tube > intake (your exploded diagram shows this)

The direction of travel with a dirty side catch can is as follows:

crank case > oil separator > PCV valve > catch can > intake

The PCV valve is a check valve attached to the oil separator outlet and only allows crankcase vapors to travel out of the separator. In other words, it allows pressure to be released from the crank case through the oil separator into the intake, but doesn't allow the reverse. That is why it is called PCV, or Positive Crankcase Ventilation, as it only flows when the crankcase pressure is positive in relation to intake pressure.

Some users have asked about the check valve offered by UPR. The UPR valve acts as a secondary, higher-quality, check valve in addition to the PCV valve. If your PCV valve ever fails to valve properly, you won't need to replace it if the UPR check valve is still operational, and the UPR is much easier to replace than the PCV valve.
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