Subwoofer install using rear speaker wires, no cutting or speaker panel removal

[DrNoobNStein]

EDIT: I discovered I gave some bad info. The left rear and right rear speakers are on their respective sides. So the left wires (grey/violet and brown/green) are under the driver side panel. The right wires (green/violet and solid grey) are under the passenger side panel. I included a picture of the right side wires.

As title states, I made a .4 cubic foot box with a dual voice coil 8" sub power by a Plinius Mono block Class D amp. I kinda went cheap but was very pleased. This little guy moves some serious bass.

Basically remove the rear driver side panel, pry up the white plastic wire cover, and the Left rear is grey/violet+ and brown/green-. Do the same thing to the passenger side rear panel and the Right rear is green/violet+ and solid grey-. Bought some Posi-Taps, wired into the high level inputs, ran a power supply to battery and ground to existing battery ground. For insurance, I used an inline 30 amp push button circuit breaker. I've heard some of these amps will come on when not in use and drain the battery. Just push the button and no power. And yes, I was in a hurry so I custom wrapped my box with a Dunkin Donuts tee shirt.

Edit to the edit: @jewc75 pointed out that by tapping into the rear speakers you won't get full bass range. I did a bass frequency sweep from 200hz down to 10hz and all bass dropped from my sub around 45hz. For most people you might not notice but you are cutting out some of the deeper bass notes if you use the rear tap. The way around this is thru Fordscan or just tapping into the front speakers. I'll leave this post up for those who still want to tap into the rear. Thanks again @jewc75 for making us aware

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[PMDMN]

Nice job and thanks for the pictures. I will likely do something similar. Let us know if the amp's auto sensing on/off works for you. I've seen some reviews that claim that the auto off function doesn't really work and the amp remains on all the time.

 

[DrNoobNStein]

Nice job and thanks for the pictures. I will likely do something similar. Let us know if the amp's auto sensing on/off works for you. I've seen some reviews that claim that the auto off function doesn't really work and the amp remains on all the time.

Thanks, and maybe I'm not giving the amplifier enough time to shut off. However, I could still see the green power light still on 30 minutes after I shut off the Mav so I'm not taking any chances.

 

[DTF-Garage]

I'm definitely jealous of you Hybrid guys with the battery under the back seat. Makes wiring up your amp 1000x easier than routing the cables from the engine bay.

 

[Jman79]

Very nice. Seeing this would have saved me some work. I tapped the two rear speakers about 1.5' down from the rear speakers themselves. This is cleaner and would have saved me some time on disassembly of additional plastic trim.

 

[EONR24]

As title states, I made a .4 cubic foot box with a dual voice coil 8" sub power by a Plinius Mono block Class D amp. I kinda went cheap but was very pleased. This little guy moves some serious bass.

Basically remove the rear driver side panel, pry up the white plastic wire cover, and both rear speaker leads are twist wrapped together. Left rear is grey/violet+ and brown/green-. Right rear is green/violet+ and solid grey-. Bought some Posi-Taps, wired into the high level inputs, ran a power supply to battery and ground to existing battery ground. For insurance, I used an inline 30 amp push button circuit breaker. I've heard some of these amps will come on when not in use and drain the battery. Just push the button and no power. And yes, I was in a hurry so I custom wrapped my box with a Dunkin Donuts tee shirt

What post taps did you get? Do you know what gauge the wire is? thanks

 

[Jamsandolina]

As title states, I made a .4 cubic foot box with a dual voice coil 8" sub power by a Plinius Mono block Class D amp. I kinda went cheap but was very pleased. This little guy moves some serious bass.

Basically remove the rear driver side panel, pry up the white plastic wire cover, and both rear speaker leads are twist wrapped together. Left rear is grey/violet+ and brown/green-. Right rear is green/violet+ and solid grey-. Bought some Posi-Taps, wired into the high level inputs, ran a power supply to battery and ground to existing battery ground. For insurance, I used an inline 30 amp push button circuit breaker. I've heard some of these amps will come on when not in use and drain the battery. Just push the button and no power. And yes, I was in a hurry so I custom wrapped my box with a Dunkin Donuts tee shirt

Looks great. Is that the 2 ohm dvc or 4 ohm dvc sub? How much power are you sending the sub. I have one of those subs arriving tomorrow. How do you like the sub? Thanks

 

[DrNoobNStein]

Looks great. Is that the 2 ohm dvc or 4 ohm dvc sub? How much power are you sending the sub. I have one of those subs arriving tomorrow. How do you like the sub? Thanks

Williston Audio Labs has the amp sending 390 watts at 1 Ohm and that's the set up I'm doing. Dual voice coil 2 Ohm wired to 1 Ohm and I've run the amp for over an hour, it never rose above 100° F. I'm very impressed with this little guy. I'm also very happy with the CT sounds sub, for an 8 inch it gets deep and can hit hard. It definitely blurs the rear view mirror when I'm bumping some bass music.

 

[DrNoobNStein]

What post taps did you get? Do you know what gauge the wire is? thanks

The 20-22 gauge work perfectly, it's a small wire size

 

[bartflossom]

Just signed a purchase agreement on my 24 hybrid yesterday. This will be my first mod. Did you do any upgrades on the factory speakers at all?

Also, would love to see pics of the box if you took any while building it. Dimensions would be awesome too.

 

[DrNoobNStein]

Just signed a purchase agreement on my 24 hybrid yesterday. This will be my first mod. Did you do any upgrades on the factory speakers at all?

Also, would love to see pics of the box if you took any while building it. Dimensions would be awesome too.

Left the factory speakers alone, I just wasn't happy with the lack of bass. Sadly, I didn't take any pictures of the box while building it but the dimensions are as follows: height is 9 inches, plenty of room for the sub to travel and not hit the seat. It's 12 inches in length (if measuring from left door to right door) and 9 inches wide. It's better to be either dead on 9 inches or slightly less for the bottom panel. It's real tight at the bottom due to the taper of the plastic storage bin. And remember, these are outside measurements so you have to subtract for the width of your wood. My first box was great until I realized it wouldn't fit due to being 10.5" wide and not 9".

 

[EONR24]

I followed your wiring instructions and installed the hideaway kicker hs10. I might eventually move it to behind the seat, but I really didn't want to make a custom mount for it and it fit perfectly under the seat! Thank you for posting your instructions! The low ends sound soooo much better the subwoofer installed.

 

[SVTChad]

I followed your wiring instructions and installed the hideaway kicker hs10. I might eventually move it to behind the seat, but I really didn't want to make a custom mount for it and it fit perfectly under the seat! Thank you for posting your instructions! The low ends sound soooo much better the subwoofer installed.

I bought an HS10 and intended on putting it in the same location you gave but it doesn't quite fit. Did you trim the plastic to fit yours or just wedge it in there?

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[EONR24]

I bought an HS10 and intended on putting it in the same location you gave but it doesn't quite fit. Did you trim the plastic to fit yours or just wedge it in there?

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I wedged it in there with a bit of force and it will not budge!. I considered putting it behind the rear seats but didn't really have a solid way to mount it.

 

[MLC2023]

@DrNoobNStein - Thanks for the post. Still happy with it? Thinking I may try. Which CT woofer and fuse did you get?

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