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- mike
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- 2017 crv 2022 oxford white maverick
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- 2.5L Hybrid
I have a Battery Tender. It has a separate Agm setting.
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Even my old Battery Tender brand will charge a AGM safely, to 80% charge.
I also have a NOCO Genius with a AGM mode that you must select each time. if the power is interrupted, even for an instant it reverts to flood mode. Not all that Genius for a long term maintainer.
@jmatchco , both will meet your posted needs just fine. personally I'd rather maintain at 80% than risk cooking the battery at 100%
I also have a NOCO Genius with a AGM mode that you must select each time. if the power is interrupted, even for an instant it reverts to flood mode. Not all that Genius for a long term maintainer.
@jmatchco , both will meet your posted needs just fine. personally I'd rather maintain at 80% than risk cooking the battery at 100%
- First Name
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The battery control module (BCM) constantly monitors the battery's charge and discharge. Nothing should be connected to the negative post of the battery... not a charger or any added accessories. Has nothing to do with a spark. It has everything to do with the BCM knowing the exact state of the battery.
Yes, even when the Maverick is shut off the BCM will know the battery is being trickle charged or something is drawing power from it as long as nothing is attached to the negative post which is before the BCM sensor (shunt) attached to the post.
Yes, even when the Maverick is shut off the BCM will know the battery is being trickle charged or something is drawing power from it as long as nothing is attached to the negative post which is before the BCM sensor (shunt) attached to the post.
I think there are many reasons to do it properly, leaving the sensor to see what is really happening.
My Maverick seems to have adjusted its timing of how long it leaves the 12 volt ports working after the truck is turned off. When it was new, I did not drive it "enough", it would always show 11.9 volts and immediately shut off when the truck did. Lots of deep sleeps, too, but always started.
Fast forward to a year later, the voltage indicator/usb port plug that I had plugged into the dash now stays on at around 12.4-12.5 for a "while" instead of immediately turning off. I haven't timed it.
I have a 12 volt cord for supplemental braking while towing. I connected the positive to the nut on the positive terminal at the battery, and then I drilled a tiny hole in the flat bar of the negative terminal (the sensor is between this hole and the terminal post) and screwed the negative terminal there.
Like I said, I do not know what this computer does, but it is smarter than I am, and I think the BMS has done some learning and adjusting over time. I also have a bluetooth voltage tracker/alarm to ensure all is well, and when being towed, it is receiving a charge from the charge-wire in the 7-pin connector. That charge wire is connected to the jump terminals under the hood.
It's been a couple of hours since I had the truck on, but my voltage tracker is showing a nice 12.54v reading still. That used to be 11.9v and very worrisome.
My noco genius 5 if interrupted resumes at the previous battery type. It's about 2.5 years old. Perhaps yours is an earlier model. If I push selector button to deselect battery type before removing it it has to be reset when placed on same or different battery. If you just unplug it and leave it mounted in vehicle then it uses milliwatts to remember setting which means you can plug it in without reselecting existing battery. One of the genius features is after bringing battery to proper 100% charge for the selected battery type it will (since it is a maintainer) run desulphate mode and/or check for electrolyte stratification, followed by correction mode for that if needed. It also has "battery repair mode for flooded 6/12v lead acid batteries" WHICH HAS TO BE DONE WITH BATTERY REMOVED FROM VEHICLE DUE TO POSSIBLE HIGHER VOLTAGES DAMAGING VEHICLE. If your battery is below 1 volt the noco will not start. To force it to start hold the selector down for 10-12 seconds and the lights start blinking one after the other then you push the selector button in single pushes until the light stops at the battery type you want (hopefully the actual one you have,). Then it will force charge for 10-15 minutes and then if battery has more than 1 volt it will charge the battery. I had a small dead flat agm (considered Dead but why not try). I ran force charge two or three times and after five weeks the damn thing finally declared full charge!!!
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Note that the negative lead in the EB models goes from the battery to the negative jump post under the hood. Someone posted that he unscrewed it and added a ground wire with multiple female plug in receptacles.
My transit has 2 nuts that can be used to add terminals. I was surprised to see no way to bolt anything onto the terminal on the Hybrid battery in the back seat without drilling a hole for a screw. This is the 2020 Transit's negative terminal, with two nuts that can handle terminals (there are two batteries and the cable on the bottom is ground, while the other cable runs to the front battery, concealed under the seat):
There is an extra screw terminal on the hybrid's positive battery terminal. It's on the side, facing towards the rear of the vehicle. Kind of awkward to get at.
The BMS sensor is on the NEGATIVE side of the battery, I just loosened the nut that acts to secure the positive post and slipped a U connector there for the positice connection. The negative was the problem...finding a place to connect AFTER the sensor. I will look for that positive screw terminal...it would make for a bit more sanitary connection.
