Brake job without going into brake maintenance mode

[Nighowl2000]

So I was able to replace my rear brake pads without going into brake maintenance/service mode on my 2022 ford maverick. This is what I did.

Tools

- 7mm hex bit
- brake compression tool: DASBET 22pcs Universal Disc Brake Caliper Piston Compressor Wind Back Repair Tool Kit for Cars https://a.co/d/2KODOK0
- laptop with forscan and compatible OBD2 adapter .
- flat head screwdriver
- caliper hanger (I use old metal coat hanger)
- new pads/rotors ( I got raybestos pads off of rock auto.

1. Make sure parking brake is off

2. Open hood and remove brake reservoir cap. Put cap in safe spot.

3. Put brick/rock behind front tires so truck does not role

4. Loosen lug nuts on rear rims.

5. Jack up truck on one side, remove lug nuts 21mm and remove tire/rim. Place under truck for added safety

6. Remove dust caps to get at slider pins. (Put in safe place)

7. Unplug electric parking brake wire harness. Might have to spray wd40 and use flat head screwdriver to release harness. (Note: this step is critical)

8. Remove brake retainer spring. Use flat head screwdriver driver. Should just pop off. Keep in safe place. If you did mangle it. The replacement pads should have replacements.


9. Use 7mm hex bit and remove brake slider pins. ( Keep in safe place.)

10. Grab brake piston compression tool kit and use adapter #7 ( if you got the same kit I did). Follow this video on how to compress your caliper:

11. After compressing caliper hang it up using caliper hanger or coat hanger

11.5 remove pads and brake caliper bracket if you are replacing rotors

11.6 remove and install new rotor

11.7 re-install brake caliper bracket

12. install new pads ones (clean and grease pad contact areas )

13. Grease slider pins and re- install piston
note: might have to compress piston more if you can't get it to fit.
Note: I added blue lock tight on sider pins for added security.

See video for procedure:

14. Reconnect electric parking brake wire harness and remove caliper hanger

15. Re- install slider pin dust caps.

16. Re - install rim with 21mm lug nuts

17. Lower jack and torque lug nuts (I go 90 foot pounds)

18. Follow steps - 1 to 17 for other side.

19. Boot up laptop with forscan and connect to truck. (Truck has to be in acc mode).

20. Clear any abs obd2 codes.

21. Go to service procedures and run "apply and release calibration". Might get error on dash, just ignore.

22. Disconnect forscan and obd2 adapter and shut down truck.

23. Remove bricks preventing truck from running away.

24. Re install brake reservoir cap and close hood.

25. Pump brakes 3 time. Start truck and go for a short drive.

26. When back, park truck and engage parking brake then release. Should have no errors!

**Note: I take no responsibility for any damages. This procedure worked for me.

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[MM Mav]

@Montana thought you might appreciate this post.

 

[Vtec87pr1]

Btw . If you want to put it on maintence mode its really simple dont need the scaner to do it. If you want i can show you tomorrow today im tired lol

 

[Cigargoyle]

Thought the lug nut torque spec was 148 ft lbs?

 

[icegradner]

Thought the lug nut torque spec was 148 ft lbs?

It is.

 

[Montana]

Btw . If you want to put it on maintence mode its really simple dont need the scaner to do it. If you want i can show you tomorrow today im tired lol

Some Mavericks won't go into maintenance mode.

So I was able to replace my rear brake pads without going into brake maintenance/service mode on my 2022 ford maverick. This is what I did.

Tools

- 7mm hex bit
- brake compression tool: DASBET 22pcs Universal Disc Brake Caliper Piston Compressor Wind Back Repair Tool Kit for Cars https://a.co/d/2KODOK0
- laptop with forscan and compatible OBD2 adapter .
- flat head screwdriver
- caliper hanger (I use old metal coat hanger)
- new pads/rotors ( I got raybestos pads off of rock auto.

1. Make sure parking brake is off

2. Open hood and remove brake reservoir cap. Put cap in safe spot.

3. Put brick/rock behind front tires so truck does not role

4. Loosen lug nuts on rear rims.

5. Jack up truck on one side, remove lug nuts 21mm and remove tire/rim. Place under truck for added safety

6. Remove dust caps to get at slider pins. (Put in safe place)

7. Unplug electric parking brake wire harness. Might have to spray wd40 and use flat head screwdriver to release harness. (Note: this step is critical)

8. Remove brake retainer spring. Use flat head screwdriver driver. Should just pop off. Keep in safe place. If you did mangle it. The replacement pads should have replacements.


9. Use 7mm hex bit and remove brake slider pins. ( Keep in safe place.)

10. Grab brake piston compression tool kit and use adapter #7 ( if you got the same kit I did). Follow this video on how to compress your caliper:

11. After compressing caliper hang it up using caliper hanger or coat hanger

11.5 remove pads and brake caliper bracket if you are replacing rotors

11.6 remove and install new rotor

11.7 re-install brake caliper bracket

12. install new pads ones (clean and grease pad contact areas )

13. Grease slider pins and re- install piston
note: might have to compress piston more if you can't get it to fit.
Note: I added blue lock tight on sider pins for added security.

See video for procedure:

14. Reconnect electric parking brake wire harness and remove caliper hanger

15. Re- install slider pin dust caps.

16. Re - install rim with 21mm lug nuts

17. Lower jack and torque lug nuts (I go 90 foot pounds)

18. Follow steps - 1 to 17 for other side.

19. Boot up laptop with forscan and connect to truck. (Truck has to be in acc mode).

20. Clear any abs obd2 codes.

21. Go to service procedures and run "apply and release calibration". Might get error on dash, just ignore.

22. Disconnect forscan and obd2 adapter and shut down truck.

23. Remove bricks preventing truck from running away.

24. Re install brake reservoir cap and close hood.

25. Pump brakes 3 time. Start truck and go for a short drive.

26. When back, park truck and engage parking brake then release. Should have no errors!

**Note: I take no responsibility for any damages. This procedure worked for me.

The issue with doing it this way is if ANY air gets in the system - it's ruined. That's what maintenance mode avoids. It's not just as simple as bleeding the system like it would be in previous vehicles that do not use electronic parking brakes. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what the reports from the technicians on this forum was.

Thank you for posting - but this was very risky and I don't feel it's worth the cost of the risk associated with it. It was also reported that ForScan does not actually do anything, so I'm not sure what you did differently there. Did you skip attempting to put the vehicle in maintenance mode and go directly to ForScan? Because those with the issue are the ones reporting ForScan not working either.

Just asking - trying to find solutions to this issue that FORD has no plans on solving.

 

[Nighowl2000]

Some Mavericks won't go into maintenance mode.




The issue with doing it this way is if ANY air gets in the system - it's ruined. That's what maintenance mode avoids. It's not just as simple as bleeding the system like it would be in previous vehicles that do not use electronic parking brakes. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what the reports from the technicians on this forum was.

Thank you for posting - but this was very risky and I don't feel it's worth the cost of the risk associated with it. It was also reported that ForScan does not actually do anything, so I'm not sure what you did differently there. Did you skip attempting to put the vehicle in maintenance mode and go directly to ForScan? Because those with the issue are the ones reporting ForScan not working either.

Just asking - trying to find solutions to this issue that FORD has no plans on solving.

I have tried every combination mentioned in all the forms, trying to get it into maintenance mode to the point I drained the battery for over a month with no success (posted this in other threads).

I am up in Canada so labor is very expensive (500 - 700$ for a rear brake job at dealer). I am also a former jeep wrangler owner and have the skills and tools.

Did the research and decided to take the chance.

 

[Montana]

I have tried every combination mentioned in all the forms, trying to get it into maintenance mode to the point I drained the battery for over a month with no success (posted this in other threads).

I am up in Canada so labor is very expensive (500 - 700$ for a rear brake job at dealer). I am also a former jeep wrangler owner and have the skills and tools.

Did the research and decided to take the chance.

Glad to see it worked.

I would like to see more done this way before I commit - but really I'd just like FORD to fix the problem to begin with.

I contemplated disconnecting the battery to begin with but never considered unplugging the e-brake since the process when it's in service mode does not call for it.

I'd like to hear from some more folks what the actual risks are by pushing those calipers without service mode before I attempt it though. But from what I recall - it wasn't good.

 

[LC48]

Looking at the actuators and parking system drawings and components described in the factory service manual there is no danger of air entrainment as the system is entirely separate from the normal service brakes.

It appears that the actuator motors turn the piston in and out, and from the pics above it appears that @Nighowl2000 used a tool that turns as it pushes so this may be the way.

I have contemplated just removing the actuator motors and then turning the shafts to retract the pistons as well.

@Vtec87pr1 please post your procedure as well, let's figure this out....

 

[skinnyboy]

Some Mavericks won't go into maintenance mode.




The issue with doing it this way is if ANY air gets in the system - it's ruined. That's what maintenance mode avoids. It's not just as simple as bleeding the system like it would be in previous vehicles that do not use electronic parking brakes. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what the reports from the technicians on this forum was.

Thank you for posting - but this was very risky and I don't feel it's worth the cost of the risk associated with it. It was also reported that ForScan does not actually do anything, so I'm not sure what you did differently there. Did you skip attempting to put the vehicle in maintenance mode and go directly to ForScan? Because those with the issue are the ones reporting ForScan not working either.

Just asking - trying to find solutions to this issue that FORD has no plans on solving.

Was wondering, not having done rears with the electric parking brake, what it was about Nighhowl2000's process that was risky? How would air enter the hydraulic system, and why could it not be bled even if it did?

I assume that with these parking brakes, like all others that I can remember, they are independent of the normal hydraulic system, and if de energized or removed to eliminate the safety hazard, make it a normal brake job. Appreciate any insight.

Cheers.

Edit: Was able to enter Brake Service Mode on my 22 Hybrid, March build with the Ford service procedure. Now understand that this mode is required for brake bleeding.

 

[Vtec87pr1]

Looking at the actuators and parking system drawings and components described in the factory service manual there is no danger of air entrainment as the system is entirely separate from the normal service brakes.

It appears that the actuator motors turn the piston in and out, and from the pics above it appears that @Nighowl2000 used a tool that turns as it pushes so this may be the way.

I have contemplated just removing the actuator motors and then turning the shafts to retract the pistons as well.

@Vtec87pr1 please post your procedure as well, let's figure this out....

Yea. Sorry when i get home i will do it. Im out on the road right now.

 

[Montana]

Was wondering, not having done rears with the electric parking brake, what it was about Nighhowl2000's process that was risky? How would air enter the hydraulic system, and why could it not be bled even if it did?

I assume that with these parking brakes, like all others that I can remember, they are independent of the normal hydraulic system, and if de energized or removed to eliminate the safety hazard, make it a normal brake job. Appreciate any insight.

Cheers.

That's what I'm wondering too. I think maybe the warnings were if the parking brake enabled while you were working? I dunno. It's all new to me. From other posts on this forum I just assumed it was super risky and not worth having to replace parts due to the vehicle refusing to go into service mode.

If we don't need it, then that would be great.

I'd be interested to see a brake bleed process with this system though. That's one thing I have not checked the service manual for, yet.

 

[Vtec87pr1]

Activation 1st picture / Deactivation its Second Picture thats the procedure to put parking brake service mode. If you want me to post a video i will when i get home. This its from Ford.

 

[Nighowl2000]

So I tried that plus instructions are crap. Between step 5 and six, how long do you hold? Either way I could not get service mode to engage.

 

[skinnyboy]

I did this:

Key on, accelerator down, EPB switch up.
Key off then immediately on while holding accelerator and switch.
Key back off, release accelerator and switch.

It then entered service mode.

Cheers.

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