2023 Hybrid 2 months old - recently going to "Deep Sleep" Mode

[Mavrookie 68]

I have had my 2023 XLT (w/ Lux package) hybrid since mid July.
4300 miles on it. Mostly commuting 18 miles to /from work M-F.

Starting 3 days ago, when I try to remote start using Fordpass app, I get the message that the truck is in Deep Sleep mode and, just be started using the key.
Typically after the truck has been parked for 4 hours or overnight. But it is not EVERY time. Sometimes it will work, but more than not, it doesn't.

Truck/app has been working FINE since I bought it - until 4 days ago.

Ive been reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere, but still have no definitive answer for a cause?
Have dealers begun 'officially' 'addressing this problem yet?

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[Mav_RICK]

So does your truck start when you use the key then?

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I have had my 2023 XLT (w/ Lux package) hybrid since mid July.
4300 miles on it. Mostly commuting 18 miles to /from work M-F.

Starting 3 days ago, when I try to remote start using Fordpass app, I get the message that the truck is in Deep Sleep mode and, just be started using the key.
Typically after the truck has been parked for 4 hours or overnight. But it is not EVERY time. Sometimes it will work, but more than not, it doesn't.

Truck/app has been working FINE since I bought it - until 4 days ago.

Ive been reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere, but still have no definitive answer for a cause?
Have dealers begun 'officially' 'addressing this problem yet?

Hi there, I'd be happy to look into your Maverick concerns on my end. Will you send us a message with your VIN and dealership info? I can look into things on my end.

 

[Mavrookie 68]

So does your truck start when you use the key then?

Yes.
The key fob unlocks the truck, etc, and turns the ignition to start the truck.
Truck seems to run just fine after that.
But then, hit or miss at a point in the not too distant future, the Fordpass app won't start the truck as stated in original post. But sometimes it will.

 

[RockHoundTX]

There are dozens of posts on this that have alluded to 4 primary causes. I have been tracking my 12V battery voltage for the last 4 weeks (and 2+ times a day for the last 2 weeks) in order to have a baseline for the future. Here is what I know so far:

The issue can be boiled down to 4 possible primary things (or a combination of all 4):
1) Poor quality battery
2) Incorrect settings in the Maverick 12V Battery Management System
3) High power drain when Maverick is turned off
4) 12V battery not being properly charged when truck is running (due to fault in power cable or just not being driven enough)

There is no doubt that the factory battery is low quality. When you picked up the truck from the dealership, the battery was more than likely already low from the trip (<12.3V or so). Sulfite starts to form when the battery is less than around 12.48V and quickly starts to form under 12.4V. This is worse in low quality batteries.

The 12V BMS seems to have similar settings to the High Voltage system. This is bad and not sure why Ford made that decision if true. They HV system likes to be at roughly 50%-60% for longevity but the 12V lead-acid battery wants/needs to be at 90%+. The 12V BMS seems to want to keep the battery in the range where sulfites continually form so the battery will continue to get worse and worse over time.

The Maverick uses a ton of electricty when turned off. This is reduced when you turn off WIFI/FordPass/etc as well as lock your doors but is still higher than industry norm. Ford has released at least 2 software patches in the last 12 months to address this issue. I am not sure how to know if a current 23 Maverick had the patches done at the factory or not (maybe someone here knows how to check?).

The final issue is that the 12V battery is just not getting charged. For the '22 model, the primary culprit was the broken main power cable. I think this has been fixed. The second culprit was a 300A fuse that may have a hairline crack. Finally, if you are just not driving enough, you may just not be charging the battery enough. From what I can tell, the Maverick stays in "high enery usage mode" for a considerable amount of time after you finish a drive (30+ minutes?). If you do a 20 minute drive but the truck keeps everything "warm" for another 30 minutes, you have a net-loss.

So what have I done? First, I charged my battery for 2 days with a high quality trickle charger. I had to do this twice (4 days total over a 10 day period) in order to get my battery to the full capacity (which should be 12.58V). With WIFI/FordPass on, you can expect a 10%-20% loss in battery power each day. With them off (and locking the door), so-far I am seeing around a 5% average loss with the highest 24 hour loss being about 10% so far in the last 2 weeks.

Word of caution: accurately checking the 12V voltage is WAY harder than you might expect. The underseat voltage will vary by as much as .2 volts depending on when you check it (due to systems being on). As an example, if you measure the under-seat voltage with the door open and the overhead light on, it may be 12.3V. If you close and lock the door and wait for all lights to go out, the voltage will be about 12.4V and stay at that for about 2 minutes. At this point you "think" everything is off. It is not. If you wait about another 3 minutes something will happen and the voltage will slowly creep up to 12.45V during the 2-4 minute timeframe.

If I were you, the first thing I would do is buy a battery tester as well as high quality trickle charger. I use a cheap TopDon AB101 and it has more than paid for itself. The voltage corresponds well to my high-end multi-meter. As for a trickle-charger, I use a BatteryMinder but pick what-ever one works for you. Your first goal it so see if you battery can take and hold a charge. Once your battery is charged, the TopDon will tell you the "State of Health" of your battery. If the battery is good, then you can start tracking down why it is either not being charged when running or being depleted when not running.

Hope that helps.

 

[RZ2O16]

There are dozens of posts on this that have alluded to 4 primary causes. I have been tracking my 12V battery voltage for the last 4 weeks (and 2+ times a day for the last 2 weeks) in order to have a baseline for the future. Here is what I know so far:

The issue can be boiled down to 4 possible primary things (or a combination of all 4):
1) Poor quality battery
2) Incorrect settings in the Maverick 12V Battery Management System
3) High power drain when Maverick is turned off
4) 12V battery not being properly charged when truck is running (due to fault in power cable or just not being driven enough)

There is no doubt that the factory battery is low quality. When you picked up the truck from the dealership, the battery was more than likely already low from the trip (<12.3V or so). Sulfite starts to form when the battery is less than around 12.48V and quickly starts to form under 12.4V. This is worse in low quality batteries.

The 12V BMS seems to have similar settings to the High Voltage system. This is bad and not sure why Ford made that decision if true. They HV system likes to be at roughly 50%-60% for longevity but the 12V lead-acid battery wants/needs to be at 90%+. The 12V BMS seems to want to keep the battery in the range where sulfites continually form so the battery will continue to get worse and worse over time.

The Maverick uses a ton of electricty when turned off. This is reduced when you turn off WIFI/FordPass/etc as well as lock your doors but is still higher than industry norm. Ford has released at least 2 software patches in the last 12 months to address this issue. I am not sure how to know if a current 23 Maverick had the patches done at the factory or not (maybe someone here knows how to check?).

The final issue is that the 12V battery is just not getting charged. For the '22 model, the primary culprit was the broken main power cable. I think this has been fixed. The second culprit was a 300A fuse that may have a hairline crack. Finally, if you are just not driving enough, you may just not be charging the battery enough. From what I can tell, the Maverick stays in "high enery usage mode" for a considerable amount of time after you finish a drive (30+ minutes?). If you do a 20 minute drive but the truck keeps everything "warm" for another 30 minutes, you have a net-loss.

So what have I done? First, I charged my battery for 2 days with a high quality trickle charger. I had to do this twice (4 days total over a 10 day period) in order to get my battery to the full capacity (which should be 12.58V). With WIFI/FordPass on, you can expect a 10%-20% loss in battery power each day. With them off (and locking the door), so-far I am seeing around a 5% average loss with the highest 24 hour loss being about 10% so far in the last 2 weeks.

Word of caution: accurately checking the 12V voltage is WAY harder than you might expect. The underseat voltage will vary by as much as .2 volts depending on when you check it (due to systems being on). As an example, if you measure the under-seat voltage with the door open and the overhead light on, it may be 12.3V. If you close and lock the door and wait for all lights to go out, the voltage will be about 12.4V and stay at that for about 2 minutes. At this point you "think" everything is off. It is not. If you wait about another 3 minutes something will happen and the voltage will slowly creep up to 12.45V during the 2-4 minute timeframe.

If I were you, the first thing I would do is buy a battery tester as well as high quality trickle charger. I use a cheap TopDon AB101 and it has more than paid for itself. The voltage corresponds well to my high-end multi-meter. As for a trickle-charger, I use a BatteryMinder but pick what-ever one works for you. Your first goal it so see if you battery can take and hold a charge. Once your battery is charged, the TopDon will tell you the "State of Health" of your battery. If the battery is good, then you can start tracking down why it is either not being charged when running or being depleted when not running.

Hope that helps.

The poor quality battery might have caused his Maverick to go into Deep Sleep Mode.

 

[TedTX]

Great list Rock, to add key fob movement and proximity seems to keep truck awake draining battery faster.

 

[Bear]

I have had my 2023 XLT (w/ Lux package) hybrid since mid July.
4300 miles on it. Mostly commuting 18 miles to /from work M-F.

Starting 3 days ago, when I try to remote start using Fordpass app, I get the message that the truck is in Deep Sleep mode and, just be started using the key.
Typically after the truck has been parked for 4 hours or overnight. But it is not EVERY time. Sometimes it will work, but more than not, it doesn't.

Truck/app has been working FINE since I bought it - until 4 days ago.

Ive been reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere, but still have no definitive answer for a cause?
Have dealers begun 'officially' 'addressing this problem yet?

I just took my 2022 Maverick Hybrid in for the deep sleep mode issue last Friday (Sept 8). They kept it over night to some to do some stuff and trickle charged it. Unfortunately, I received the deep sleep message on Sunday (Sept 9) and a few more times during the week. I just drove my Maverick around (off AC) and I received the deep sleep mode again even after driving it around. I'm going to call my dealership now and setup an appointment.

Hey @Ford if you see this posting PM me and I will give you my VIN & dealership name.

 

[jsus]

I just took my 2024 Maverick Hybrid in for the deep sleep mode issue last Friday (Sept 8). They kept it over night to some to do some stuff and trickle charged it. Unfortunately, I received the deep sleep message on Sunday (Sept 9) and a few more times during the week. I just drove my Maverick around (off AC) and I received the deep sleep mode again even after driving it around. I'm going to call my dealership now and setup an appointment.

Hey @Ford if you see this posting PM me and I will give you my VIN & dealership name.

FYI the official account is @Ford Motor Company.

@Ford is someone who was active for one day back in November 2021.

 

[johnpbrewer]

I have had my 2023 XLT (w/ Lux package) hybrid since mid July.
4300 miles on it. Mostly commuting 18 miles to /from work M-F.

Starting 3 days ago, when I try to remote start using Fordpass app, I get the message that the truck is in Deep Sleep mode and, just be started using the key.
Typically after the truck has been parked for 4 hours or overnight. But it is not EVERY time. Sometimes it will work, but more than not, it doesn't.

Truck/app has been working FINE since I bought it - until 4 days ago.

Ive been reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere, but still have no definitive answer for a cause?
Have dealers begun 'officially' 'addressing this problem yet?

Well, mine has been at the dealer for a couple of months now. First tried replacing the battery, then the fuse, then the cable. Nothing worked. Now they are waiting on a dc/dc converter and can't tell me when it will be in.

 

[Mavrookie 68]

There are dozens of posts on this that have alluded to 4 primary causes. I have been tracking my 12V battery voltage for the last 4 weeks (and 2+ times a day for the last 2 weeks) in order to have a baseline for the future. Here is what I know so far:

The issue can be boiled down to 4 possible primary things (or a combination of all 4):
1) Poor quality battery
2) Incorrect settings in the Maverick 12V Battery Management System
3) High power drain when Maverick is turned off
4) 12V battery not being properly charged when truck is running (due to fault in power cable or just not being driven enough)

There is no doubt that the factory battery is low quality. When you picked up the truck from the dealership, the battery was more than likely already low from the trip (<12.3V or so). Sulfite starts to form when the battery is less than around 12.48V and quickly starts to form under 12.4V. This is worse in low quality batteries.

The 12V BMS seems to have similar settings to the High Voltage system. This is bad and not sure why Ford made that decision if true. They HV system likes to be at roughly 50%-60% for longevity but the 12V lead-acid battery wants/needs to be at 90%+. The 12V BMS seems to want to keep the battery in the range where sulfites continually form so the battery will continue to get worse and worse over time.

The Maverick uses a ton of electricty when turned off. This is reduced when you turn off WIFI/FordPass/etc as well as lock your doors but is still higher than industry norm. Ford has released at least 2 software patches in the last 12 months to address this issue. I am not sure how to know if a current 23 Maverick had the patches done at the factory or not (maybe someone here knows how to check?).

The final issue is that the 12V battery is just not getting charged. For the '22 model, the primary culprit was the broken main power cable. I think this has been fixed. The second culprit was a 300A fuse that may have a hairline crack. Finally, if you are just not driving enough, you may just not be charging the battery enough. From what I can tell, the Maverick stays in "high enery usage mode" for a considerable amount of time after you finish a drive (30+ minutes?). If you do a 20 minute drive but the truck keeps everything "warm" for another 30 minutes, you have a net-loss.

So what have I done? First, I charged my battery for 2 days with a high quality trickle charger. I had to do this twice (4 days total over a 10 day period) in order to get my battery to the full capacity (which should be 12.58V). With WIFI/FordPass on, you can expect a 10%-20% loss in battery power each day. With them off (and locking the door), so-far I am seeing around a 5% average loss with the highest 24 hour loss being about 10% so far in the last 2 weeks.

Word of caution: accurately checking the 12V voltage is WAY harder than you might expect. The underseat voltage will vary by as much as .2 volts depending on when you check it (due to systems being on). As an example, if you measure the under-seat voltage with the door open and the overhead light on, it may be 12.3V. If you close and lock the door and wait for all lights to go out, the voltage will be about 12.4V and stay at that for about 2 minutes. At this point you "think" everything is off. It is not. If you wait about another 3 minutes something will happen and the voltage will slowly creep up to 12.45V during the 2-4 minute timeframe.

If I were you, the first thing I would do is buy a battery tester as well as high quality trickle charger. I use a cheap TopDon AB101 and it has more than paid for itself. The voltage corresponds well to my high-end multi-meter. As for a trickle-charger, I use a BatteryMinder but pick what-ever one works for you. Your first goal it so see if you battery can take and hold a charge. Once your battery is charged, the TopDon will tell you the "State of Health" of your battery. If the battery is good, then you can start tracking down why it is either not being charged when running or being depleted when not running.

Hope that helps.

First, Thank you for the response.

Second...
If I'm reading your response correctly, (and assuming nothing is actually broken or faulty) by turning off wi-fi and Ford pass,
A. I will no longer be able to remote start the truck.
and
B. I will likely STILL have a problem with the truck going into deep sleep mode
unless I
C. Get the battery charged to full capacity (apps 12.58v)

***If I DO charge the battery to full capacity (and assuming nothing is actually broken or faulty) I should be able to get the truck to perform as hoped - even if I turn on wifi and Ford Pass without using a daily trickle charger(?)
I am not a 'car guy' so this really seems like a Ford problem that should not be on us to mitigate.
So frustrating and worrisome.

 

[RockHoundTX]

First, Thank you for the response.

Second...
If I'm reading your response correctly, (and assuming nothing is actually broken or faulty) by turning off wi-fi and Ford pass,
A. I will no longer be able to remote start the truck.
and
B. I will likely STILL have a problem with the truck going into deep sleep mode
unless I
C. Get the battery charged to full capacity (apps 12.58v)

***If I DO charge the battery to full capacity (and assuming nothing is actually broken or faulty) I should be able to get the truck to perform as hoped - even if I turn on wifi and Ford Pass without using a daily trickle charger(?)
I am not a 'car guy' so this really seems like a Ford problem that should not be on us to mitigate.
So frustrating and worrisome.

No-one seems to know the real number, but the consensus here is that the truck goes into Deep Sleep when the battery gets down to around 11.8V (which for a lead-acid battery is roughly 25% remaining capacity). It is safe to say that as long as you can keep your battery at > 12.1V (roughly 50% capacity), you won't go into deep sleep mode. However, 12.1V is not healthy for your battery and will result in an early demise. As mentioned, you really want your battery to stay in the 12.4+ range (while 12.58V would be ideal, it is OK to be a little under that). You can get the battery back to over 12.1V by either putting a charger on it (I personally prefer a trickle charger vs a 10+ amp charger) or by doing a long, continuous drive (1+ hour?). Based on what others have reported, doing a long drive will get you up to about the 12.4V range and then the BMS kicks in and does a trickle charge (thus, getting to 12.5V might take a 500 mile trip).

Yes, if you turn everything off, you loose remote start, FordPass phone updates, etc. I have not done significant testing (yet) regarding the impact of wifi/FordPass/ GPS/etc. All I can say is that when I had everything on (and not locking my car every time I got out), I had roughly 3x the battery drain compared to when I turned everything off (and locked the doors). I can say that locking the doors does keep the truck from making lots of noise (which means something is using electricity), so for anyone wanting to do some testing, start with that.

I absolutely agree that this is Ford's problem. However, Ford really doesn't care unless this becomes a big enough issue that folks start threatening a class action lawsuit or Ford is required to replace a bunch of batteries under warranty (which they seems to be making every excuse not to do). For now, it is still cheaper for Ford just to release a couple more software updates and replace a few batteries when there is no other choice. Right now, it is too easy for Ford to just say "this is your fault since you are not driving enough to keep the 12V charged."

 

[A Sturdy Beast]

Like the OP, I too have a two month old Maverick, although mine has less than 500 miles. I never installed Ford Pass and never paired my phone. On day one I turned off Wi-Fi, automatic firmware updates, and turned off the modem.

After mine sits unused for about 8 days it goes into deep sleep mode. The only way I can tell is the interior lights near the rear view mirror don’t illuminate when I unlock the truck and open a door. The key remote (XL) still works to lock and unlock the doors.

The truck always starts and runs normally, but I have noticed that after deep sleep, the 12v power points cut off immediately as soon as the truck is turned off. This happens even after a five mile drive, which I would have thought would be enough to recharge the 12v battery. That’s inconvenient for me, because I want my dash cams to run when I’m parked in store parking lots.

I’ve tried a trickle charger, but once removed from the charger it still goes to deep sleep after about 8 days. It has only happened twice so far since I usually drive it often enough to avoid deep sleep. Based on what I’ve read here on the forum, I expect the issue to be worse when winter arrives.

I’m considering buying the Duralast Gold battery that is mentioned in other threads. Part # T4-DLG Autozone SKU # 490538. About $210.

 

[JP4AZ]

What A giant Pain in the AZZ! I just got my Hybrid 4 days ago, and I noticed after I park it in the garage or anywhere, the truck seem to click (make noise) about every minute for quite some time.
Is this the beginning of what is causing the power drain?

 

[A Sturdy Beast]

What A giant Pain in the AZZ! I just got my Hybrid 4 days ago, and I noticed after I park it in the garage or anywhere, the truck seem to click (make noise) about every minute for quite some time.
Is this the beginning of what is causing the power drain?

The clicking sounds are normal for a Maverick. It is part of what causes the power drain, the app also being a cause.

This type of problem is not unique to Mavericks or even hybrids in general. A few years ago my neighbor bought a brand new non-hybrid loaded Ford SUV. It was the highest trim level with every option. The battery would be dead in less than a week if he didn’t drive it. After a few months of the dealer telling him that this was normal, he traded it in for a Toyota.

It would be nice if Ford had designed the Maverick to be able to use the high voltage battery to automatically top off the 12v battery if needed.

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