Anyone towing a camper with Hybrid Mavierck?

[GPSMan]

I pulled this:
(with 25 years of experience and 50,000 miles of towing, non commercial - this may be a bit ambitious for the newbie)

If you are new to towing, my #1 advice is SLOW DOWN. GRADUALLY add speed after you have 500-5,000 miles of practice, not 5 minutes of practice. The common thread you will see below, is my moderate speeds even as a highly experienced tower.

While on flat roads, it only needed about 20% power output.

On 4% to 5% grade it took about 50%.

On a 6% grade, a bit more as expected.

Now next it gets interesting and this may include never before published information.

The Green part of the power gauge is not only for regeneration, re-charging of the battery. The green gauge also indicates the amount of engine braking! In fact, when the HV battery is "full" this green part of the gauge is entirely dedicated to engine braking.

In the following photo, notice downhill assist is active and the needle is mid-way into the green area.

At the same time I was getting zero regen brake; zero recharging; because my battery was "full". At no time during any of my trips, no matter how long the downslope was, the battery NEVER went above 72% charge, as I have digital read-out for the battery.

Note: Charge Power Limit 0.00
This means zero regen allowed.
Note: HEV Batt Current: -0.7 amps. NIL
Note: HV State of Charge: 71.4%
Note: Battery Coolant Temp: 106

I have noted there is no active battery cooling until the battery exceeds 106 deg. This 106 must be a "safe" nominal temperature.

Zero Charge. Zero amps coming in or out of the HV battery. Needle 50% in the green shows 50% of the available engine braking being utilized at this moment. At higher speeds, on steeper grade, I did once see the needle hit the peg, go horizontal to the left. At this point, time to consider using friction brakes and trailer brakes.

Sponsored

 

[APD]

For those looking for a significantly lighter (approx weight 600 lbs) and less expensive teardrop style camper, check out Chesapeake light craft....its a kit you build yourself. I built a kayak from one of their kits. So much more enjoyable when you've built it yourself.

https://www.clcboats.com/teardrop

 

[Stive]

I pulled this:
(with 25 years of experience and 50,000 miles of towing, non commercial - this may be a bit ambitious for the newbie)

If you are new to towing, my #1 advice is SLOW DOWN. GRADUALLY add speed after you have 5,000 miles of practice, not 5 minutes of practice. The common thread you will see below, is my moderate speeds even as a highly experienced tower.

While on flat roads, it only needed about 20% power output.

On 4% to 5% grade it took about 50%.

On a 6% grade, a bit more as expected.

Now next it gets interesting and this may include never before published information.

The Green part of the power gauge is not only for regeneration, re-charging of the battery. The green gauge also indicates the amount of engine braking! In fact, when the HV battery is "full" this green part of the gauge is entirely dedicated to engine braking.

In the following photo, notice downhill assist is active and the needle is mid-way into the green area.

At the same time I was getting zero regen brake; zero recharging; because my battery was "full". At no time during any of my trips, no matter how long the downslope was, the battery NEVER went above 72% charge, as I have digital read-out for the battery.

Note: Charge Power Limit 0.00
This means zero regen allowed.
Note: HEV Batt Current: -0.7 amps. NIL
Note: HV State of Charge: 71.4%
Note: Battery Coolant Temp: 106

I have noted there is no active battery cooling until the battery exceeds 106 deg. This 106 must be a "safe" nominal temperature.

Zero Charge. Zero amps coming in or out of the HV battery. Needle 50% in the green shows 50% of the available engine braking being utilized at this moment. At higher speeds, on steeper grade, I did once see the needle hit the peg, go horizontal to the left. At this point, time to consider using friction brakes and trailer brakes.

I am curious about your ScanGuage. I just looked it up and it’s very interesting in what all it can do. I read somewhere on the forum that devices like these, you have to unplug when shutting down otherwise they can drain the battery. Does this on stay on drawing power when you have the vehicle off? Thanks for the posting.

 

[GPSMan]

The Scan Gauge specifically has a "hybrid mode" which means two things.

A) it stays on while the engine is off to track your EV stats

B) it is smart enough to power down when you REALLY power down

I'd never worry about it over night or over a week-end. If you are going to be away for a week or more, I'd disconnect it to be safe. It comes with a magnetic mount like many cell phone mounts. I even take it inside when I'm in a sketchy part of the city.

I think it is very useful to learn nuances about your vehicle, and to give you confidence to tow, etc. I torture tested my Mav this weekend and the gauges showed me I was not overheating anything as an example.

Some PID (parameter ID codes) are published and some not. We we can discover more as we go.

 

[GPSMan]

It has about 100 pre-programmed parameters you can monitor right out of the box

It has a "self discovery mode" to discover some model or manufacturer parameters (HV battery as example).

It has a manual program mode. If more parameters are released by Ford, or if they are "discovered" via trial & error or reverse engineering, we can add those. For example in the Escape Hybrid I could watch traction motor RPM, Generator RPM, and Engine RPM all at the same time. Those were unpublished at the time but discovered by enthusiasts on forums just like this.

 

[GPSMan]

Towing 3300 lb trailer with 500 lbs (people plus gear) in the truck:

Sea Level - Up down up down up to final destination 450 miles away at 4800 ft. Used Tow/Haul mode.
Got 18.0 MPG hand calculated ( truck said 19.9 )

Return Trip - 4800 ft down up down up down to final destination 450 miles away at about sea level. Ran in Normal mode. Got 20.51 MPG hand calculated ( truck said 21.4 )

Weather was about the same each trip. Light winds variable both ways. Did the same speeds as close as practical. Probably the MPG variance was from net elevation change, not from mode change.

That said: when towing something heavy, Tow/haul is most suited when you are making lots of speed changes, such as in the city with stop lights, AND in windy, hilly, steep mountain terrain where you need to slow for curves, then accelerate on the straight, and take steep slopes.

Normal mode I found much more suitable for towing on the Interstate; or major highways with mild hills and consistent speed limits.

The regen is too strong in Tow/Haul for anything more mild than 5% slopes. If you lift the gas pedal on the interstate in Tow/Haul you might as well be applying the brakes. It will slow you 10 mph in 5 seconds. Usually you don't want that on the interstate.

I hope you find this information interesting and helpful.

 

[Sembazuru]

For those looking for a significantly lighter (approx weight 600 lbs) and less expensive teardrop style camper, check out Chesapeake light craft....its a kit you build yourself. I built a kayak from one of their kits. So much more enjoyable when you've built it yourself.

https://www.clcboats.com/teardrop

I saw a YouTube video of someone who built their own tear drop. She documented the building process in the video. It was her own design, but she got the base trailer frame from Chesapeake Light Craft. Interesting build video (if you are into those things). Your link reminded me of this build. Here's the vid:

 

[JennyJoannSuebeeMcNash]

I have the Ecoboost FWD - no FX4 package. Without getting into the brain-bleed math specifics, what can this truck actually tow? 2000lbs? Looking at a cargo trailer to convert to a camper and debating sizes: 6x8 or 6x10; the 6x8 runs around 850lbs, the 6x10 I think is 1200-1400lbs.

Would love to hear peoples' experiences.

 

[The Ranch Wife]

Yes, the trailer has electric brakes. I installed Curt 4-pin to 7-pin adapter on the Maverick and a Tekonsha 902502 Prodigy brake controller on the trailer. It's wired to 12V and I use a handheld remote to apply the trailer brakes in unison with the truck's brakes.

Hi - I hope you see this after all this time. My new Hybrid arrives in two weeks. I am looking at a trailer that weighs right at 2000 pounds without any water or camping gear in it. I know I can only put two people in the cab and about 200 pounds max of groceries and gear in the bed
to be hopefully within CGVW. With the 4 to 7 pin connector did it supply power to the brakes without re-wiring your truck ??. And did you mount the controller on the trailer frame to avoid mounting it under the dash? Also, did the remote come with the controller ? I am downsizing from a 24 foot motorhome - towing a car. I have a cute retro looking trailer in mind to pull with the Maverick, but don't want to ruin it. Any help you could offer would be most appreciated .

 

[GPSMan]

Hi - I hope you see this after all this time. My new Hybrid arrives in two weeks. I am looking at a trailer that weighs right at 2000 pounds without any water or camping gear in it. I know I can only put two people in the cab and about 200 pounds max of groceries and gear in the bed
to be hopefully within CGVW. With the 4 to 7 pin connector did it supply power to the brakes without re-wiring your truck ??. And did you mount the controller on the trailer frame to avoid mounting it under the dash? Also, did the remote come with the controller ? I am downsizing from a 24 foot motorhome - towing a car. I have a cute retro looking trailer in mind to pull with the Maverick, but don't want to ruin it. Any help you could offer would be most appreciated .

When towing, don't worry so much about weight.

Just focus on the power meter gauge.

You need to keep sustained power at 50% or less. Pull what you want (within reason) and drive at the speed, whatever speed necessary to keep the power needle less than 50% continuous. You can exceed 50% while passing and while accelerating on highway on-ramps. Just don't hold it above 50% for more than a few minutes here and there or stuff will heat up.

UNDERSTAND and ACCEPT you will be in the right lane and/or truck lane on hills for most of your trips. For me, that's a fine trade-off for getting 45-50 MPG commuting, and 20 MPG while towing.

The hybrid CAN tow a lot.
It just can not drive over 65 MPH while doing so.

I found 62 MPH / 100 km/h a comfortable, safe, and economical speed towing 3,000 pounds and 9'feet tall on flat roads. Slower going up grade.

50% power output is the golden rule; not 2000 pounds.

PS you can't use a 4 pin to 7 pin connector to magically get trailer brakes. You need to install an ACTUAL 7-pin connector and connect all the pins. It's easy to do and only about $25. Brake controller of your choice sold separately to connect to the brake pin. Technically that's all you need. 5 pins. The 6th is for optional back up lamps on trailer (mine has none) and the 7th is for optional trailer battery charging.

 

[Derwood]

When towing, don't worry so much about weight.

Just focus on the power meter gauge.

You need to keep sustained power at 50% or less. Pull what you want (within reason) and drive at the speed, whatever speed necessary to keep the power needle less than 50% continuous. You can exceed 50% while passing and while accelerating on highway on-ramps. Just don't hold it above 50% for more than a few minutes here and there or stuff will heat up.

UNDERSTAND and ACCEPT you will be in the right lane and/or truck lane on hills for most of your trips. For me, that's a fine trade-off for getting 45-50 MPG commuting, and 20 MPG while towing.

The hybrid CAN tow a lot.
It just can not drive over 65 MPH while doing so.

I found 62 MPH / 100 km/h a comfortable, safe, and economical speed towing 3,000 pounds and 9'feet tall on flat roads. Slower going up grade.

50% power output is the golden rule; not 2000 pounds.

PS you can't use a 4 pin to 7 pin connector to magically get trailer brakes. You need to install an ACTUAL 7-pin connector and connect all the pins. It's easy to do and only about $25. Brake controller of your choice sold separately to connect to the brake pin. Technically that's all you need. 5 pins. The 6th is for optional back up lamps on trailer (mine has none) and the 7th is for optional trailer battery charging.

I always thought that the max towing weights were a little underestimated and while I will shoot for staying under 2,000lbs for my new Hybrid XLT it's good to know I can push that envelope in a pinch.

 

[realshelby]

Hi - I hope you see this after all this time. My new Hybrid arrives in two weeks. I am looking at a trailer that weighs right at 2000 pounds without any water or camping gear in it. I know I can only put two people in the cab and about 200 pounds max of groceries and gear in the bed
to be hopefully within CGVW. With the 4 to 7 pin connector did it supply power to the brakes without re-wiring your truck ??. And did you mount the controller on the trailer frame to avoid mounting it under the dash? Also, did the remote come with the controller ? I am downsizing from a 24 foot motorhome - towing a car. I have a cute retro looking trailer in mind to pull with the Maverick, but don't want to ruin it. Any help you could offer would be most appreciated .

The Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating of your Hybrid Maverick is under 6100 lbs. Your Maverick is about 36-3700 lbs. Add a 2000 lb trailer and you have at MOST 500 lbs for passengers, all camping gear, any and all extra stuff you are packing. Water is 8 lbs per gallon for instance.
Will the Maverick pull that? Will it stop ok in a panic stop? Will it harm anything long term?
Hard to be sure. But I figure you will end up well over the factory combined weight rating when actually ready to tow and pull out.
To add the 7 pin for a trailer brake there is going to be some wiring done. Used to be Ford left a harness under the dash for a brake controller. But I doubt there will be one for a Maverick Hybrid that only comes with a 4 pin flat connector. So, that is a complete wiring job. Surge brakes are an option to consider.

 

[Quinnman]

I towed over the Northern CA Sierra's this weekend and I must say the Hybrid tows exceptionally well.

I am towing a 7x12x9 the 9 foot tall really hurts the aero drag but I have machinery in there that tall so the height is needed.

3300 lbs single axle with electric brakes. I added a 7 pin and Tekonsha P3 proportional brake controller. You really only need the trailer brakes for panic stops. The hybrid holds its own on 6% downgrade. Never have to touch the brake pedal.

Automatic downhill assist is amazing!
When the Mav detects a downslope it automatically holds that speed. Hit a downhill patch at 51, it holds 51. Like cruise control (cruise does NOT need to be on).

Regen is going to fill your tiny battery pack in 20 or 30 seconds. The engine braking was smooth, seamless, and strong enough to hold back the truck plus 3300 lbs on 6% downgrade. Slopes less than this I found myself using a little go pedal on the downhill.

Know that air drag is more work for the truck than weight (when pulling) but the weight is going add more stopping distance. That said, with well tuned trailer brakes, I really DO NOT need much extra stopping distance. Stopping has been easy as driving the truck home from the dealer.

55 MPH with 9' tall trailer is easy for this truck. Power gauge 20-25% all day long.

60 MPH it really starts to feel the wind drag. About 33% to 40% on the power gauge.

65 MPH is possible but I think this is where it starts to strain. Power will be about 50% all day long.

I've never exceeded 65 with a trailer.
My SOP is and it's working well:

55 MPH cruise control all day long is not a strain for the Mav Hybrid. You can set it and forget it.

If desired, if in a bit of a time crunch, SOP #2 is entirely doable:

55 MPH on uphill sections
60 MPH on flat sections
65 MPH on downhill sections

While I have towed with a more powerful F-150 and a Silverado 2500HD, the Mav is by far the most comfortable and quiet ride for the driver. Going over railroad crossing and speed bumps, well, you'd not notice them if you were not paying close attention.

COLOR ME IMPRESSED
Stats to follow:
I have a ScanGauge III suite of digital gauges:

MPG : 21 at 55 MPH
MPG: 19.9 at 60 MPH

Towing in the mountains on a 87 to 97 degrees day:

Coolant nominal: 190 deg
Coolant average: 200 deg
Coolant peak on upgrade: 214 deg

HV battery nominal: 100 deg
HV battery average: 106 deg
HV battery peak: 111 deg

HP 55 MPH Nominal: 33
HP 55 MPH Average: 45
HP 55 MPH peak on 6% grade: 141
*Display only gives gasoline horsepower, not combined output.

Good info, but are you saying the trailer axle capacity is 3300 lbs or are you actually having a trailer weight of 3300 lbs? If not what was the actual tow weight of the trailer you towed at the time. I am curious as to the reference details. Appreciate the update

 

[Quinnman]

EcoBoost crashing the party, LoL I had a hybrid ordered at the beginning. But people on here told me that my pop-up would be too heavy for a hybrid. And that I can't combine hauling weight and towing weight. So I switch my order to an EcoBoost. Hearing that you're doing good with pulling a hard side with the hybrid. Makes me sad I switched. Granted I'm not a fan of FWD in Wisconsin. Out of 10 vehicles I did $4,000 damage to the only FWD I ever owned. Maybe the silver lining is that I got a AWD now. Happy camping everyone!

Hey Ted,
Thanks so much for the post.
How far have you towed the Rove so far? Any insight into load such as how much engine load on the gauge and speeds while running?
Any insight with the toilet feature? Appreciate any info on this.
We are also looking at a Rove 14FL and the FD. We are also considering the off-road package that would bring the FL to 1992 lbs. dry weight. That package has heavier axle capacity 2500 lbs. compared to 2000 lbs. on the standard unit. The off-road package also has 15-inch tires with higher ground clearance instead of the standard 13-inch tires and a roof mounted 200-watt solar panel set up. Not sure with the added weight though if it's worth it for pulling with the maverick hybrid.
The standard Rove 14 FL dry weight is 1775 lbs. The standard 14FD dry weight is 1676 lbs. Being more rounded than the Helio and Pro lite gives a slight head room advantage on both front and back ends. The Rove is also slightly longer than the Helio and the Pro Lite but then again it is more weight than those. Always a tradeoff.
They all have very similar inside layouts.
We really like the Pro lite Lounge and Pro lite Plus S camper but justifying the price difference is a tough call. They are a few hundred pounds lighter than the Rove FL though.
The Pro Lite Plus S is 1390 lbs. and the Pro Lite Lounge is 1485 lbs.
Unloaded dry weight. That is a big plus (no pun intended).
So, they are both a bit lighter than the Rove units. They don't have an off-road package option but are set up for a solar add on with a port though. So, adding solar albeit not on the roof would be simple.
The Helio 2 was also a really nice unit but has more of a tear drop slope in the bed area that effects head room more than the pro lite. Helio 2 weight is 1550 lbs. and a little shorter than the Rove. But it has a nice similar layout as well.
And they all have the wet bath with toilet. Toilet being the main item we wanted as a camper feature.
The Rove has the toilet with a black water type dump station needed to empty, and it has a small 5-gallon black water capacity.
The Helio has a 10 Gallon black water tank so a little more capacity but still a dump station is needed.
The Pro Lite has a cassette toilet with a 5gallon tank, so no dump station needed. Could empty in dump stations rest stops or regular toilet areas from what we have read.
Never having had a camper with a toilet before (20 years with a pop up) we don't know which is the better option. Appreciate any experienced input.
Decisions, decisions.

 

[GPSMan]

Good info, but are you saying the trailer axle capacity is 3300 lbs or are you actually having a trailer weight of 3300 lbs? If not what was the actual tow weight of the trailer you towed at the time. I am curious as to the reference details. Appreciate the update

Actual weight between 3200 and 3300.
Trailer rated at 3500.
Can't go fast uphill. But neither can 18 wheelers. I was always able to out pace 18 wheelers on any slope.

P.S. I refuse to "floor it". I tried 70-80% power and things started to heat up. But you can drive at 50% power all day. So let your speed "drift" and keep the power needle under 50%.
It's called "driving with load" constant load (vs. driving with speed constant)

Don't use cruise control unless you are on flat roads.

Sponsored