💡 Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added]

[JerseyMike]

Of course, I do! Ok, I had to go look.

Driver side power - yellow & green combo
Passenger - blue & white combo

IMPORTANT: Reminder - these are the wire colors for the Lariat which does not use the turn signal lamps as DRLs.

Oh no, I didn't even think of the difference, I have an XLT (soon)

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[dcs12345]

That night video looks great.

The real question is have you had a chance to see if that little LED light fits in the hole in the bed?

 

[AGW078]

Due to my envy of those vehicles that have turn signal indicators on their mirrors or body side, I took another member's basic idea and went one step further to have the badge act as a turn signal indicator. The first side took a bit of time to figure out what light would work best and how to wire it up correctly and safely. The other side took about an hour or two. Nothing like having "experience" the second time around.

This is how it came out:


What you'll need:

• plastic pry tools to ease off the badge.
• LED light. (I liked the round one where the wiring exits out the back of the light)
• butt splices. Red ones for the small wire gauge.
• several wire bridge taps. Again, the red ones.
• two ring terminals large enough to be able to attach to one of the bolts holding the fender together. This is for a ground. I got the ones that included shrink wrap on the wire end, but not necessary.
• UPDATE: Resistors not needed because I'm not REPLACING an incandescent bulb, merely adding one. 2 resistors. Remember, the Mav uses incandescent bulbs for its on/off turn signal function. If you introduce a lesser load bearing LED, it throws off the truck's computer into thinking a bulb is burned out and you get the hyperflash. The more expensive Laserfit LED's have internal resistors, but we are not using those today.
• wire cutters, stripper, and crimping tool.
• 4 strands of automotive wire about 3 - 1/2 feet long. Red and black are always a good choice color wise. The wires on the LED's I chose are yellow & black, so I used those colors.
• Drill bit or forstner bit large enough to cut out a round circle in the badge. The LED's I used required a 3/4" hole to fit snugly.
• 2 amber colored covers that fit the badge. These were made specifically for the Maverick and can be found on Etsy, however, this is an option. I chose to use them to cover up the LED lamp and also to disperse the light. Inexpensive . . . $20 for two.
• shrink wrap if you choose to use it and then you'll need either a heat gun or hair dryer.
• Automotive electrical tape. If you'll notice looking into any type of automotive wiring, the tape is NOT the shiny kind. The shiny kind tends to melt and get sticky. Opt for the "fabric" type. Easily available on Amazon and looks more like it belongs.
• Four #4 self-tapping screws to hold the resistors in place. Actually, one screw will hold it just fine. We'll talk about where to place the resistor and it might be tough to get two screws on. Getting one on was tough enough and it held strongly, so I didn't bother with the second one.

DAD, do you have a link for the round lights? Ordered the Orange covers, they should look good with the other orange accents on my Tremor.

 

[Dad]

Oh no, I didn't even think of the difference, I have an XLT (soon)

In the meantime, you're amassing all kinds of information, right?

 

[JerseyMike]

In the meantime, you're amassing all kinds of information, right?

The pile of screenshots is almost as ridiculous as the pile of parts in the closet

 

[Dad]

The pile of screenshots is almost as ridiculous as the pile of parts in the closet

I feel your frustration, man. Hang in there, she's worth the wait and you'll have fun making that 'out the factory door' truck your very own.

 

[Dad]

That night video looks great.

The real question is have you had a chance to see if that little LED light fits in the hole in the bed?

Thank you! Much appreciated.

Yes I did, but got caught up into something else before I could report back.

The hole is slightly smaller than the 3/4" required for the lamp housing, so you'll need to drill it out a little bit. Definitely doable. The hole is covered with a rubber stopper which you'll need to remove to drill out your bigger hole. It just pops out. Don't throw it away just yet.

Keep in mind, that if you get a tonneau cover, you may need to use these holes to pass through water drainage tubes. To do that, leave the covers but cut an X in them and the tube will easily pass through and it will still be sealed up.

 

[Dad]

DAD, do you have a link for the round lights? Ordered the Orange covers, they should look good with the other orange accents on my Tremor.

Yes, I do . . .

https://a.co/d/fJxv42g

 

[FabMav]

I just ordered the newly added smoked version of the fender covers. Will post pics when they arrove and are installed.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1375201097
I also ordered the smoked amber version of the little round lights from Amazon to go with it.

 

[AGW078]

Yes, I do . . .

https://a.co/d/fJxv42g

Thank you.

 

[dcs12345]

Thank you! Much appreciated.

Yes I did, but got caught up into something else before I could report back.

The hole is slightly smaller than the 3/4" required for the lamp housing, so you'll need to drill it out a little bit. Definitely doable. The hole is covered with a rubber stopper which you'll need to remove to drill out your bigger hole. It just pops out. Don't throw it away just yet.

Keep in mind, that if you get a tonneau cover, you may need to use these holes to pass through water drainage tubes. To do that, leave the covers but cut an X in them and the tube will easily pass through and it will still be sealed up.

I plan on only using the back holes for lights and the front ones for drains.

I’m definitely going to try cutting down the rubber around the light to see if I can get it to fit…..I don’t really want to drill the bed.

The light without the rubber is only .6”ish, so worst case, I’ll take the rubber off the light the use silicone around it.

Do you have a spray is liner or just unlined bed?

 

[Dad]

I just ordered the newly added smoked version of the fender covers. Will post pics when they arrove and are installed.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1375201097
I also ordered the smoked amber version of the little round lights from Amazon to go with it.

Can't wait to see them and feel free to reach out to me with ANY questions.
FYI : I used a strong dual lock tape to attach the covers to the badge in case I needed to remove the covers to get to the LED rather than gluing them on. Here's the link:
https://a.co/d/5W9rMq7

 

[Dad]

I plan on only using the back holes for lights and the front ones for drains.

I’m definitely going to try cutting down the rubber around the light to see if I can get it to fit…..I don’t really want to drill the bed.

The light without the rubber is only .6”ish, so worst case, I’ll take the rubber off the light the use silicone around it.

Do you have a spray is liner or just unlined bed?

Do you have the lights in hand? Not sure if cutting the rubber around the light will accomplish much. I'm not sure if the bed holes are there specifically for any purpose that requires an exact fit. I think you would be fine making the hole a bit larger. It's only about 1/16" too small.
I forgot that you have the rear holes. Mine are covered by a tie down rail. I have the Ford factory spray in liner.

 

[RobA979]

Due to my envy of those vehicles that have turn signal indicators on their mirrors or body side, I took another member's basic idea and went one step further to have the badge act as a turn signal indicator. The first side took a bit of time to figure out what light would work best and how to wire it up correctly and safely. The other side took about an hour or two. Nothing like having "experience" the second time around.

This is how it came out:


What you'll need:

• plastic pry tools to ease off the badge.
• LED light. (I liked the round one where the wiring exits out the back of the light)
• butt splices. Red ones for the small wire gauge.
• several wire bridge taps. Again, the red ones.
• two ring terminals large enough to be able to attach to one of the bolts holding the fender together. This is for a ground. I got the ones that included shrink wrap on the wire end, but not necessary.
• UPDATE: Resistors not needed because I'm not REPLACING an incandescent bulb, merely adding one. 2 resistors. Remember, the Mav uses incandescent bulbs for its on/off turn signal function. If you introduce a lesser load bearing LED, it throws off the truck's computer into thinking a bulb is burned out and you get the hyperflash. The more expensive Laserfit LED's have internal resistors, but we are not using those today.
• wire cutters, stripper, and crimping tool.
• 4 strands of automotive wire about 3 - 1/2 feet long. Red and black are always a good choice color wise. The wires on the LED's I chose are yellow & black, so I used those colors.
• Drill bit or forstner bit large enough to cut out a round circle in the badge. The LED's I used required a 3/4" hole to fit snugly.
• 2 amber colored covers that fit the badge. These were made specifically for the Maverick and can be found on Etsy, however, this is an option. I chose to use them to cover up the LED lamp and also to disperse the light. Inexpensive . . . $20 for two.
• shrink wrap if you choose to use it and then you'll need either a heat gun or hair dryer.
• Automotive electrical tape. If you'll notice looking into any type of automotive wiring, the tape is NOT the shiny kind. The shiny kind tends to melt and get sticky. Opt for the "fabric" type. Easily available on Amazon and looks more like it belongs.
• Four #4 self-tapping screws to hold the resistors in place. Actually, one screw will hold it just fine. We'll talk about where to place the resistor and it might be tough to get two screws on. Getting one on was tough enough and it held strongly, so I didn't bother with the second one.

Dad - So glad the covers I had designed worked well for you. I have been working with Ty at GadCad3d on a couple projects. Great guy. Only difference with mine is I used a 3 wire bulb so that I could have them as running lights also. I think it looks great!

 

[dcs12345]

Do you have the lights in hand? Not sure if cutting the rubber around the light will accomplish much. I'm not sure if the bed holes are there specifically for any purpose that requires an exact fit. I think you would be fine making the hole a bit larger. It's only about 1/16" too small.
I forgot that you have the rear holes. Mine are covered by a tie down rail. I have the Ford factory spray in liner.

I do have the lights.
I bet without having a spray in liner, they will fit

1. thickest part (Not counting the rear of the rubber)

2. thinnest area of the rubber (between the little ridges)

3. thickness of the plastic under the rubber

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