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Due to my envy of those vehicles that have turn signal indicators on their mirrors or body side, I took another member's basic idea and went one step further to have the badge act as a turn signal indicator. The first side took a bit of time to figure out what light would work best and how to wire it up correctly and safely. The other side took about an hour or two. Nothing like having "experience" the second time around.

This is how it came out:


What you'll need:
  • plastic pry tools to ease off the badge.
  • LED light. (I liked the round one where the wiring exits out the back of the light)
  • butt splices. Red ones for the small wire gauge.
  • several wire bridge taps. Again, the red ones.
  • two ring terminals large enough to be able to attach to one of the bolts holding the fender together. This is for a ground. I got the ones that included shrink wrap on the wire end, but not necessary.
  • UPDATE: Resistors not needed because I'm not REPLACING an incandescent bulb, merely adding one. 2 resistors. Remember, the Mav uses incandescent bulbs for its on/off turn signal function. If you introduce a lesser load bearing LED, it throws off the truck's computer into thinking a bulb is burned out and you get the hyperflash. The more expensive Laserfit LED's have internal resistors, but we are not using those today.
  • wire cutters, stripper, and crimping tool.
  • 4 strands of automotive wire about 3 - 1/2 feet long. Red and black are always a good choice color wise. The wires on the LED's I chose are yellow & black, so I used those colors.
  • Drill bit or forstner bit large enough to cut out a round circle in the badge. The LED's I used required a 3/4" hole to fit snugly.
  • 2 amber colored covers that fit the badge. These were made specifically for the Maverick and can be found on Etsy, however, this is an option. I chose to use them to cover up the LED lamp and also to disperse the light. Inexpensive . . . $20 for two.
  • shrink wrap if you choose to use it and then you'll need either a heat gun or hair dryer.
  • Automotive electrical tape. If you'll notice looking into any type of automotive wiring, the tape is NOT the shiny kind. The shiny kind tends to melt and get sticky. Opt for the "fabric" type. Easily available on Amazon and looks more like it belongs.
  • Four #4 self-tapping screws to hold the resistors in place. Actually, one screw will hold it just fine. We'll talk about where to place the resistor and it might be tough to get two screws on. Getting one on was tough enough and it held strongly, so I didn't bother with the second one.




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FordRick

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Due to my envy of those vehicles that have turn signal indicators on their mirrors or body side, I took another member's basic idea and went one step further to have the badge act as a turn signal indicator. The first side took a bit of time to figure out what light would work best and how to wire it up correctly and safely. The other side took about an hour or two. Nothing like having "experience" the second time around.

This is how it came out:



What you'll need:
  • plastic pry tools to ease off the badge.
  • LED light. (I liked the round one where the wiring exits out the back of the light)
  • butt splices. Red ones for the small wire gauge.
  • several wire bridge taps. Again, the red ones.
  • two ring terminals large enough to be able to attach to one of the bolts holding the fender together. This is for a ground. I got the ones that included shrink wrap on the wire end, but not necessary.
  • 2 resistors. Remember, the Mav uses incandescent bulbs for its on/off turn signal function. If you introduce a lesser load bearing LED, it throws off the truck's computer into thinking a bulb is burned out and you get the hyperflash. The more expensive Laserfit LED's have internal resistors, but we are not using those today.
  • wire cutters, stripper, and crimping tool.
  • 4 strands of automotive wire about 3 - 1/2 feet long. Red and black are always a good choice color wise. The wires on the LED's I chose are yellow & black, so I used those colors.
  • Drill bit or forstner bit large enough to cut out a round circle in the badge. The LED's I used required a 3/4" hole to fit snugly.
  • 2 amber colored covers that fit the badge. These were made specifically for the Maverick and can be found on Etsy, however, this is an option. I chose to use them to cover up the LED lamp and also to disperse the light. Inexpensive . . . $20 for two.
  • shrink wrap if you choose to use it and then you'll need either a heat gun or hair dryer.
  • Automotive electrical tape. If you'll notice looking into any type of automotive wiring, the tape is NOT the shiny kind. The shiny kind tends to melt and get sticky. Opt for the "fabric" type. Easily available on Amazon and looks more like it belongs.
  • Four #4 self-tapping screws to hold the resistors in place. Actually, one screw will hold it just fine. We'll talk about where to place the resistor and it might be tough to get two screws on. Getting one on was tough enough and it held strongly, so I didn't bother with the second one.

That is so awesome! I love that. Great job.
 

GPSMan

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I kinda like this, and kinda not.

I was next to someone Friday night in a double left turn lane.
I was in the inside lane.
The amber blinker was coming in the passenger window, and kind of blinding my night vision. Made me have second thoughts about doing this unless it was soft, diffuse light.
 

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I think you only need resistors if you use LED instead of incandescent. Adding LED to a line that already has incandescents on them, you do not.
 

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Post #2
I didn't want a mile long post, so I thought I would break them up.

Here are more pictures of what I did and then I'll provide a monologue. Couldn't get the wife to film a video . . . even after I wrote a script!

After removing the badge, I drilled a 3/4" hole in it to accommodate the round LED light I purchased from Amazon . . . about $12 for a pack of 10.

The LED has grommet that holds it snugly in place. Also waterproof. I fed the wires out the back which is why I opted for these lights as opposed to ones that had the wiring out the side.
UPDATE: After posting this, one member posted a picture of how he mounted a small lighting strip that had the wires coming out the side. He did a remarkable job hiding those wires. Scroll down a few posts to see his work on his XLT

Ford Maverick 💡 Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] IMG_2837


Ford Maverick 💡 Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] IMG_2842


Ford Maverick 💡 Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] IMG_2870


You can also see that added additional wires and taped them up. I'll need the wires separate when one goes to a grounding point and the other bridge taps into the existing turn signal at the front of the Maverick.


Next photo is my grounding point.

Ford Maverick 💡 Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] IMG_2875


This is where I used a large ring terminal that included shrink wrap. I also taped it.

I've included a photo of the amber badge cover to show how well it fits. It's an option. I attached it using waterproof heavy duty dual lock tape so I can remove it for whatever reason . . . maybe the LED might need replacing.

Ford Maverick 💡 Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] IMG_2836 (1)
 
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I kinda like this, and kinda not.

I was next to someone Friday night in a double left turn lane.
I was in the inside lane.
The amber blinker was coming in the passenger window, and kind of blinding my night vision. Made me have second thoughts about doing this unless it was soft, diffuse light.
Good point. The amber covers I got from Etsy diffuse the light reasonably well.
 
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I think you only need resistors if you use LED instead of incandescent. Adding LED to a line that already has incandescents on them, you do not.
I believe you meant to say, "adding *incandescent* to a line that already has them, you do not. That is true. However, I wasn't sure how well the amber covers would hold up to the higher heat generated by incandescent.
 
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I believe you meant to say, "adding *incandescent* to a line that already has them, you do not. That is true. However, I wasn't sure how well the amber covers would hold up to the higher heat generated by incandescent.
No.

If you REMOVE incandescent and replace with LED you need a resistor.
If you ADD LED, as in your case, you do not, as long as they are 12v LED and I'm sure that's what you bought.

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No.

If you REMOVE incandescent and replace with LED you need a resistor.
If you ADD LED, as in your case, you do not, as long as they are 12v LED and I'm sure that's what you bought.

😎
Oh, sorry. Now I see what you are saying. I hadn't considered that. I'm wondering though, since I'm tapping into an incandescent bulb and including an LED in the system if that would warrant a resistor.
 

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IMG_2836 (1).png


CAUTION: By the way, if you have an XL or XLT, make sure you connect to wire that is NOT constant on, such as the running light. Constant on will overheat the resistors.
A very very good reason not to use resistors in this case. Not needed. Save cost. Save time. Save "melting or burning" stuff.
 
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2nd favorite mod so far...............might have to look into copying this one also when the weather gets better
Now that's a compliment! Thank you!
 
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A very very good reason not to use resistors in this case. Not needed. Save cost. Save time. Save "melting or burning" stuff.
Thank you for your input. One of the reasons why I went to the trouble of posting is to get other's suggestions and informative opinions. I'll have to give this some serious consideration. I'll try disconnecting the resistor on one side and see if works without it.
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