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Crutchfield research on the non B&O system incoming...

Darnon

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Not my experience. The tweeters are wired directly from the head unit. The crossover is part of the head unit. I will check it out when I get a chance but I installed the Infinity reference without their crossover and it is obvious the components were carefully crossed somehow.
Not according to the wiring diagram. The tweeters are wired in parallel with the door speakers.

Ford Maverick Crutchfield research on the non B&O system incoming... page_2-
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MavVa1024

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Not my experience. The tweeters are wired directly from the head unit. The crossover is part of the head unit. I will check it out when I get a chance but I installed the Infinity reference without their crossover and it is obvious the components were carefully crossed somehow.

I am sure the B&O system has the speakers crossed over differently. Specifically, I suspect they filter some of the base out of the signal sent to the door speakers and send it to the subwoofer. My setup with Infinity reference delivers an increased base response from the door simply because they are better speakers. It is almost too much, if I turn up the volume it feels like I could blow apart the doors. That's why a sub is a good idea.
The Non-B&O tweeters are not discreetly amplified. They are wired in parallel with the front door woofers. The stock tweeters 100% have an in-line capacitor ( its attached to the back of the tweeter housing) . If you are installing new tweeters, they should either be actively amplified with an electronic crossover, have passive in-line crossovers, or you should use the crossover that comes with your component set. They may sound fine for a while, but without protection, they are being sent frequencies well below what they can handle, and will eventually fail.
 

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Not according to the wiring diagram. The tweeters are wired in parallel with the door speakers.

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Sounds like in a three way active set up it would be easiest to run new tweeter wires and tap into the front from an amp.
 

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This is pretty similar to the Focal set I shared....same frame work. Differences being tweeter material (which effects sound brightness/harsness), frequency response, woofer material (which effects bass response/extension, sensitivity (a higher number here means the speaker is more efficient with the available power and thus plays a lil louder and protection. The Focals have inline crossover caps on both the woofer and tweeter, irrc the powerbass only uses inline caps on the tweeter. For the price and same installation the Powerbass may appeal to more people, however if you able to demo both side by side, it becomes clear why the Focals cost more.
Very well explained. Thanks.
 
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Not my experience. The tweeters are wired directly from the head unit. The crossover is part of the head unit. I will check it out when I get a chance but I installed the Infinity reference without their crossover and it is obvious the components were carefully crossed somehow.

I am sure the B&O system has the speakers crossed over differently. Specifically, I suspect they filter some of the base out of the signal sent to the door speakers and send it to the subwoofer. My setup with Infinity reference delivers an increased base response from the door simply because they are better speakers. It is almost too much, if I turn up the volume it feels like I could blow apart the doors. That's why a sub is a good idea.
Having pulled apart both the B&O, and the non -B&O. I can 100% tell you that the headunit does not have active crossovers for the tweeters. The capacitors are on the back of the OEM tweeter housing for the Non-B&O system. This is confirmed by Ford's wiring diagram as well. Again, the infinity speakers you installed may sound fine, for now. over time the un filtered signal will degrade the tweeters. If you ever add an amp, you will definitely need crossovers.

Non-B&O tweeters shown below.

Ford Maverick Crutchfield research on the non B&O system incoming... Captur
 

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Having pulled apart both the B&O, and the non -B&O. I can 100% tell you that the headunit does not have active crossovers for the tweeters. The capacitors are on the back of the OEM tweeter housing for the Non-B&O system. This is confirmed by Ford's wiring diagram as well. Again, the infinity speakers you installed may sound fine, for now. over time the un filtered signal will degrade the tweeters. If you ever add an amp, you will definitely need crossovers.

Non-B&O tweeters shown below.

Capture.PNG
Great and useful information, thanks.
 

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awesome thread. thanks for sharing the information. any reason you didn't go Focus on the Tweeters? Nevermind... I saw that you did use the Focus Tweeters and they had the crossover caps... (which would make them suitable for the XLT stock system too,no) Ultimately what did you do for the rear doors? Why Morel and not Focus for those?
 
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Cruthfield now has speakers listed for the Maverick.
interestingly enough they don't show the Focal Ford IS 165 mentioned in this thread.

a shop local to me has the Ford IS on their demo wall along with the Auditor 165, which is on sale right now at Crutchfield for $149, and the high end KX2. I listened to all of them, albeit with whatever I could tolerate on their demo system, rather than music I'm familiar with.

I thought the Ford IS aluminum dome tweeter was pretty bright on the demo board. Mounted in the dash and firing off the windshield I think it would be even brighter especially if you don't have a dsp to tame it. Also, the Ford Inside is $379. Plug and play is worth something, especially on the dash tweeter instead of using hot glue or double stick tape, but I just didn't like them at that price point.

The KX2 was pretty awesome but I can't justify the cost.
 

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No need to wait for this. I have a Lariat Lux with the 8 speaker B&O and I just installed a set of speakers from Focal that I bought from Crutchfield. 6 1/2" for the doors and 1" tweeters for the dash. I also bought Morel 4" for the rear but haven't installed them yet.
Doors and dash were 100% PnP with NO wires cut or any other crazy stuff. It is considerable cleaner with nice bass response compared to the crap I pulled out. An external amp is planned as they still suffer from the necessity of additional power to truly make them "sing" but they are very musical. At the time I bought mine, a few days ago, the Maverick was not listed information wise as to what fits where. Even the bolt pattern was 100% and the tweeters snapped in exactly the same as the oem tweeters.... I went with these because I used the same system, but in a 6x9, for my 2021 F150 single cab with the same greatness and ease of install.

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Thank you very much for posting this update. I have the same speakers in my Escape and was wondering how everything would transfer into my Lariat Maverick when it comes. Looks nice and clean. Did you leave the center channel as is or did you upgrade to get better quality?

I also have a Punch P300-10T sub, Audio Control DM-608 and Focal FPX 4.800 that I'll be adding. Hoping I can find room for the sub.
 
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Thank you very much for posting this update. I have the same speakers in my Escape and was wondering how everything would transfer into my Lariat Maverick when it comes. Looks nice and clean. Did you leave the center channel as is or did you upgrade to get better quality?

I also have a Punch P300-10T sub, Audio Control DM-608 and Focal FPX 4.800 that I'll be adding. Hoping I can find room for the sub.
I left the oem center speaker for now. I'll upgrade it soon. Haven't had time to really look for the one I want.
 

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I left the oem center speaker for now. I'll upgrade it soon. Haven't had time to really look for the one I want.
the issue with the center channel in the B&O system is that the factory speaker is (corrected) 8 ohm. I'm not sure you'll find anything quite like that, there are a few 8 ohm and a lot of 4. you could band-aid it with a resistor in series, and I think some have tried that. it's not a lot of current so might work ok.
 
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2016BoostedGreyGoose

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the issue with the center channel in the B&O system is that the factory speaker is 12 ohm. I'm not sure you'll find anything quite like that, there are a few 8 ohm and a lot of 4. you could band-aid it with a resistor in series, and I think some have tried that. it's not a lot of current so might work ok.
I wasn't planning on running it through the ACM/B&O system.
 

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the issue with the center channel in the B&O system is that the factory speaker is 12 ohm. I'm not sure you'll find anything quite like that, there are a few 8 ohm and a lot of 4. you could band-aid it with a resistor in series, and I think some have tried that. it's not a lot of current so might work ok.
Center channel is 8-ohm.
 

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