2025 Non B&O Audio Measurements

[squirlz]

In my efforts to upgrade the factory audio system I needed some baseline measurements.

Equipment:
Room EQ Wizard (REW) - Software used to capture RTA measurements
Onyx Producter 2.2 - Audio Interface
Dayton EMM-6 - Measurement Microphone
Radio volume Level at 17
Fade and Balance as specified
EQ Flat, All Passengers
Full Range Periodic Pink Noise -6 dBFS 192 kHz 24-bit PCM WAV file on a USB drive exported from REW

Measurements were taken above the center arm rest about ear height or Near Field (as close to the speaker grill as possible) as specified

Overall I am surprised with the results, it is nothing to really boast about, but not half bad. There is a hump from 90Hz to 350Hz, if you take that out it is pretty flat from 60Hz to 3.5KHz with a little dip, then holds and rolls off gradually after 9KHz. Tweeters are off axis, this explains the high end roll off.

The near field measurements for the fronts are not accurate since I did not disconnect the other speaker when measuring.
I would assume the tweeter is actually rolling off around 2.5KHz and anything below that is from the door speaker.
I doubt the 6.5" in the door is playing up to 8KHz, but this is on axis near field, it should start beaming around 2.2KHz, most of the higher frequencies do not reach your ear. If I had to guess, it is rolling off around 3KHz based on the measurements, but some off axis measurements might shed some light.

I plan on taking some more measurements and adjusting the EQ to see if I can remove the bump from 90Hz to 350Hz. I could take better near field by covering the other front speaker.

If you have any suggestions or ideas let me know. I don't plan on making any changes until the weather warms up.

L + R All Speakers No Smoothing

L + R All Speakers 1/3 Smoothing

L + R Front No Smoothing

L + R Front 1/3 Smoothing

L + R Rear No Smoothing

L + R 1/3 Smoothing

L Front Door Near Field No Smoothing

L Front Door Near Field 1/3 Smoothing

L Front Dash Near Field No Smoothing

L Front Dash Near Field 1/3 Smoothing

L Rear Near Field No Smoothing

L Rear Near Field 1/3 Smoothing

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[Psychotic Homie]

WOW!! Thank you so much for posting this, it is exactly what I've been looking for. I'm just now dipping my toes into the audio tuning world.

Have you done any more test since then with aftermarket speakers with and/or without a DSP and amp? If so what did you find out?

I'm wanting to start tinkering around with my tuning, so far I have replaced the front door speakers with kicker ks series 6.75 coaxials and added an NVX 10" hideaway sub on high level input tapped from the front speaker channels. As far as forescan all I've done is flatten my EQ. My in dash tweeters are still hooked up (The highs to my ear became too muffled using just the coaxials)

Eventually I'll get around to replacing the rear speakers and adding an inexpensive DSP/AMP combo, something like a puzu c7. Do you have any advice for someone like me to make the system sound as good as possible until I get around to installing the DSP/AMP?

ps. I've been sound treating my cabin as I go. Front doors and back seat have been treated so far.

 

[squirlz]

I should retake these measurements, I was using the wrong sample rate, thus the fluctuations at the bottom end.

I went a bit off the deep end with my audio build, still tuning, but have all of the equipment installed. Check out my build thread for specifics.

I did not play around with the factory setup as I knew it was all going away. But I suggest sound treatment on the doors. Since the whole inner door cover can be removed, it provides easy access to apply CLD to the outer metal door skin. Cover as much as you can, within your budget, but treat the larger areas first, keep the CLD pieces as large as possible.

The door panel itself needs treatment as it will rattle. Duct Seal and foam tape works good to prevent this, some CLD on the larger parts also helps. Adding mass is good, this will minimize movement.

Put a decoupler between the door panel and the door, Thinsulate is cost effective, but any foam would also work. Even quilt batting would be better than nothing, you want it thick enough so it is compressed a bit to add some pressure on the door panel.

My cabin is very quiet, and not rattles or buzzes but I treated every panel and stuffed all the cavities with Thinsulate.

A DSP is worth every penny. The easy of adjustment for crossover and gains is well worth it. If you can get time alignment that is also a game changer, but does require a lot of tuning to get right.

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