Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation

[JaxMav]

exactly…. I actually just ordered 50 feet of gasket foam and may have to do something like that with these new tweeters cuz they seem more like 24mm than 1 inch

Foam tape worked well for me. Tweeters are fitting nice and snug.

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[MaverickShark]

They’re just running off factory (and I’ll be putting these 4” in this weekend)…. depending on how I like these and how it all sounds once I have it dialed in, there’s a chance I run something along the lines the kicker key to the mids and highs (but I’m really not sure I need to, when the hideaway isn’t acting up it already sounds pretty damn good and I don’t really need it any louder than how it sounds at 23 running music from iTunes)

Honestly just the powerbass replacements off the factory head unit power sounds WAY better than the stock speakers (more clarity, the tweeters are silk dome so there’s a clean brightness that wasn’t there) aaaand you can turn it up without distortion like the junk stock speakers

What wire harness are those?

 

[BootXL76]

In thinking about wiring these new tweeters, something just dawned on me…. The stock tweeters are 8 ohms…. I didn’t really give it a second thought when I first took them out…. Since they’re wired in parallel stock, if you replace those on a stock signal with 4 ohm tweeters aren’t we effectively lowering the total load to 2ohms?

What wire harness are those?

72-5600

 

[uh50]

In thinking about wiring these new tweeters, something just dawned on me…. The stock tweeters are 8 ohms…. I didn’t really give it a second thought when I first took them out…. Since they’re wired in parallel stock, if you replace those on a stock signal with 4 ohm tweeters aren’t we effectively lowering the total load to 2ohms?

72-5600

The answer is yes, if they are connected in parallel.

 

[uh50]

I just took about an hour trip and wasn't interested in talking with the passenger so I played with the audio when I safely could. It's really the first time I played with balance and fade much. Interestingly, the type of music I listen to with the fade to the front the 6 1/2" door speakers with the dash tweeters do an "ok" job. Don't get the wrong, they need to be upgraded. But, the back 4" OEM speakers are thin sounding. No mid bass to speak of and they get tinny on the highs. So, they are a must to replace. On the whole, the system severely needs responsive bass and mid bass tones, full mid ranges, and brighter highs.

So, I've been thinking if finances require I do stages, I might add the subwoofers first and while I'm fooling around in the back upgrade the 4" back speakers. I wonder how hard it would be to upgrade to 5 1/4" - 6 1/2" coax speakers there? For the subwoofer I'm leaning hard for the 6 3/4" CompRT672 Kicker with the enclosure and passive subwoofer along with a DX125.2 for the rear speakers and subwoofer.

The DX125.2 may be too small to drive both the rear speakers and and the CompRT672 subwoofer. The amp is rated 60W rms per channel at 14.4 V with a 2 ohm load. Kicker recommends 150W. Considering the STEREO-AND-MONO-SIMULTANEOUSLY (SAMS) OPERATION minimum impedance of 2 ohms bridged (mono) and 4 ohms per channel stereo gives a 1.333 ohms (parallel 2 ohms and 4 ohms) connected load. I don't know if available 90 watts rms will efficiently drive the subwoofer and a rear speaker. Might have to rethink what amp to use where. Maybe a mono amp for the subwoofer and a KickerKey200.4 for the front and rear speakers would be best. Would the 125W DX125.2 connect with a mono subwoofer drive the 150W subwoofer ok? If so, maybe adding the subwoofer and am is what I should add first.

 

[BootXL76]

I just took about an hour trip and wasn't interested in talking with the passenger so I played with the audio when I safely could. It's really the first time I played with balance and fade much. Interestingly, the type of music I listen to with the fade to the front the 6 1/2" door speakers with the dash tweeters do an "ok" job. Don't get the wrong, they need to be upgraded. But, the back 4" OEM speakers are thin sounding. No mid bass to speak of and they get tinny on the highs. So, they are a must to replace. On the whole, the system severely needs responsive bass and mid bass tones, full mid ranges, and brighter highs.

So, I've been thinking if finances require I do stages, I might add the subwoofers first and while I'm fooling around in the back upgrade the 4" back speakers. I wonder how hard it would be to upgrade to 5 1/4" - 6 1/2" coax speakers there? For the subwoofer I'm leaning hard for the 6 3/4" CompRT672 Kicker with the enclosure and passive subwoofer along with a DX125.2 for the rear speakers and subwoofer.

The DX125.2 may be too small to drive both the rear speakers and and the CompRT672 subwoofer. The amp is rated 60W rms per channel at 14.4 V with a 2 ohm load. Kicker recommends 150W. Considering the STEREO-AND-MONO-SIMULTANEOUSLY (SAMS) OPERATION minimum impedance of 2 ohms bridged (mono) and 4 ohms per channel stereo gives a 1.333 ohms (parallel 2 ohms and 4 ohms) connected load. I don't know if available 90 watts rms will efficiently drive the subwoofer and a rear speaker. Might have to rethink what amp to use where. Maybe a mono amp for the subwoofer and a KickerKey200.4 for the front and rear speakers would be best. Would the 125W DX125.2 connect with a mono subwoofer drive the 150W subwoofer ok? If so, maybe adding the subwoofer and am is what I should add first.

short reply for now, I don’t think you can go wrong with the phase approach or with starting with the sub…. I do think you’re probably asking too much of it running both the rear channel and the sub…. I’d try to find a deal on a 43CXA3004 and just bridge channels 3 and 4 for the compRT

 

[BootXL76]

Found a perm home for the lc2i pro…. Cut a piece of ABS to where it aligns with 2 bracket holes…. Sits right in front of the cabin air filter and isn’t too permanent to where I could take it out if needed

 

[Red Ryder]

Found a perm home for the lc2i pro…. Cut a piece of ABS to where it aligns with 2 bracket holes…. Sits right in front of the cabin air filter and isn’t too permanent to where I could take it out if needed

That looks great. Not only removable but accessible for setting the levels and threshold.
Any chance there's room for the LC2i Pro and the Key 200.1 up there? If I had room up in front somewhere, I wouldn't have to run speaker wires from the back for the doors and tweeters.

 

[BootXL76]

That looks great. Not only removable but accessible for setting the levels and threshold.
Any chance there's room for the LC2i Pro and the Key 200.1 up there? If I had room up in front somewhere, I wouldn't have to run speaker wires from the back for the doors and tweeters.

Not in that exact spot, I don’t think, but I’ve got the key right here

along that edge there there are brackets on the outsides…. You could make some kind of brace/bracket and lay it flat and you’d be able to have access to make adjustments on both (which I might do, as I’m gonna pull the key and rewire It in bi amp)

 

[Red Ryder]

Not in that exact spot, I don’t think, but I’ve got the key right here

along that edge there there are brackets on the outsides…. You could make some kind of brace/bracket and lay it flat and you’d be able to have access to make adjustments on both (which I might do, as I’m gonna pull the key and rewire It in bi amp)

Perfect. Sounds like we're on similar paths with the LC2i/Key. Thanks for following-up!

 

[uh50]

short reply for now, I don’t think you can go wrong with the phase approach or with starting with the sub…. I do think you’re probably asking too much of it running both the rear channel and the sub…. I’d try to find a deal on a 43CXA3004 and just bridge channels 3 and 4 for the compRT

Thanks BootXL76 for the recommendation. 150W bridge on two channels for a 150W sub, of course...why didn't I think of that? And, 75W per channel is plenty to drive the rear upgrades. A $149 4 channel Kicker Amp is a good buy.

 

[uh50]

So BootXL76, did you ever get your 4 x 6 rears from Australia?

 

[Abraxis]

Hey BootXL76,

I love the idea of using each side of the storage bins under the seat. I've been looking at possibly using a pair Kicker 6 3/4" 48CWRT672 CompRT Series shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils with a Kicker DXA125.2 Amplifier feeding both the subs on mono, and using the two channels for the rear C-pillar 4" replacement upgrade. Adding the appropriate crossovers. The 6 3/4" subs have a frequency response of 30-500hz, which are pretty good mid low bass, although the sensitivity is a bit low at 82.6.

So, I was thinking of trying a diagonal cover similar to the cardboard cutout you show in the photo to mount my 6 3/4" subwoofer and using the bin space that goes back under the trim to the outside as the enclosure. Maybe add some baffling. Might save some space using the 6 3/4" subs instead of the 8".

I'm kinda firm on the front replacement upgrades being driven by the KickerKey 200.4 using all four channels on the 2-6 1/2" door speakers and the 2-tweeters. Just have to finally decide on the upgrades speakers to buy.

I'll take your recommendation about harness and get a custom harness from one of your sources. That way, I can get the appropriate crossovers and other accessories needed like bass blockers for the tweeters.

One more question please, and I'll leave you alone. I was researching and performed searches on best speakers on specific applications. When I searched for Best Mid Bass speakers, I got quite a shock. The consensus of four or five websites had all the following speakers but in different order.

1) Pyramid W64 Pro 6.5 Inch, 200 Watt 4 Ohm Vehicle Mid-Bass Component Poly Woofer Audio Sound Speakers w/ 30 Oz Magnet Structure, 2.5” Mount Depth Fits OEM. Freq. Response = 60 Hz - 5k, no sensitivity listed. $18.59 each.​

2) Pyle PLG64 6.5 Inch Mid Bass Woofer Sound Speaker System - Pro Loud Range Audio 300 Watt Peak Power w/ 4 Ohm Impedance and 60-20KHz Frequency Response for Car Component Stereo, no sensitivity listed. $19.49 each.​

3) PYLE PLPW6D 6" 1200W Dual Voice Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer. Freq. Response = 70 Hz - 6k, sensitivity = 89db w/resonance frequency at 52.2 Hz. $35.99 pair.​

4) BOSS Audio Systems CXX8 8 Inch Car Subwoofer - 600 Watts Maximum Power, Single 4 Ohm Voice Coil. Freq. Response = 20 Hz - 200 Hz, sensitivity = 83 db w/resonance frequency at 49 Hz. $29.99 each.​

5) Planet Audio AC8D 8 Inch Car Subwoofer -1200 Watts Maximum Power, Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coil. Freq. Response 23 Hz - 3 k, sensitivity = 85 db, w/resonance frequency at 39 Hz. $36.99 each.​

6) Pyle PLPW8D Car Subwoofer Audio Speaker - 8in Non- Pressed Paper Cone, Black Plastic Basket, Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm Impedance, 800 Watt Power and Foam Surround for Vehicle Stereo Sound System. Freq. Response = 40 Hz - 3k, sensitivity = 89 db w/resonance frequency at 46.2 Hz. $19.88 each.​

Obviously, the attraction here is cost. I can get two mid bass/subwoofers for less than $50 or so instead of the Kicker 6 3/4" for $214 pair. So the question is are any of the above worth fooling with? Does anyone have experience with any of the above? Ok, so that's two questions.

When I searched for best subwoofer I got results that I expected and we've been discussing in different threads like the Kicker subs.

TIA for reading and for any answers.

Skimmed this thread to see if anyone responded and didn't see anything on my cursory glance, so I will hopefully save you some money here: each of those brands listed as a result of your search (pyramid, Pyle, and to a lesser extent PA) are rubbish. The kind of brand that has a marketing budget for funding affiliate links in the "best" lists that you stumbled across from your search.

 

[uh50]

Skimmed this thread to see if anyone responded and didn't see anything on my cursory glance, so I will hopefully save you some money here: each of those brands listed as a result of your search (pyramid, Pyle, and to a lesser extent PA) are rubbish. The kind of brand that has a marketing budget for funding affiliate links in the "best" lists that you stumbled across from your search.

I do appreciate the info, and I thought as much, but needed it confirmed. I have settled on either Powerbass OEM replacements, or Morels, or Kickers. Probably use a Kicker 4 channel amp on the front and a 2 channel amp on the rears, along with a CompTR 6 1/2" subwoofer with passive subwoofer bridged on the 2 channel amp. But, I have not pulled the trigger yet. Options are appreciated.

 

[BootXL76]

So BootXL76, did you ever get your 4 x 6 rears from Australia?

Yes! I actually went to take the panels back off (I only have the top one that’s with the 4” mounted up right now) and they were being annoying and I was like “okay I’m not in the mood for this”

my Replacement hertz cento got here today and if I get time to work on it today, was going to unbox those 4x6s and hook em up and see if I hear much difference (I can access the connector without having to take the panel all the way off)

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