Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation

[Flomounier1]

If you already have rattled, would be a perfect opportunity to add some sound deadening to the inside of that plastic . I’m using some acoustic foam as well, thinking about covering the whole back behind the seat in some spray on sound deadening, but still in the infant stages of research on the long term ramifications of that)

I was thinking that as well. When you took off the A pillars, did you notice anything loose or maybe a plastic clip that might be rubbing on the pillar trim itself? That's where my rattles seem to be coming from, where the pillar meets the tweeter and windshield glass.

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[BootXL76]

One other thing I noticed when back behind the climate control, there’s a 2nd wiring harness plug and this white cable to the left. I’m wondering if there’s a way to tap into that harness, etc for a sub (and then maybe use forscan to enable the signal, etc)

 

[BootXL76]

I was thinking that as well. When you took off the A pillars, did you notice anything loose or maybe a plastic clip that might be rubbing on the pillar trim itself? That's where my rattles seem to be coming from, where the pillar meets the tweeter and windshield glass.

Hmmm, I wonder if the connection point where those two clip together, if something is loose…. I’d take it in and tell the dealership about the rate and see if they have any remedies (other than the actual clips, there’s no much back there other than the airbag)

 

[Delbert]

We do need the schematics for the Maverick's wiring on the website. If anyone has them, please post.

 

[Delbert]

I am working on my own budget stereo build. Nakamichi components are cheap right now. I don't want to mess with the head unit.

I intend to start with a DSP amplifier NDSK4085A. It is being sold all over for around $250. For those who do not know, a digital signal processor takes the signal from the head unit which in this day and age is pretty good and splits it up to separate signals for each speaker, 6 of them. Each one of these signals has it's own equalizer, crossover and time delay. The system has a microphone which is placed where your ears are located and listens to music producer by each of the 7 speakers in your car and allows you to adjust accordingly.

The interface is bluetooth and has tons of parameters to set but is mostly automated with the use of the microphone. The one I am looking at has 80 watts per channel which is plenty except for the subwoofer which is powered separately. Once the system is optimized the settings can be stored as a preset. There is a remote for the system called the AC1 which is the perfect size to fit in the cubby and allows you to switch between presets and has a volume knob. Last generation has all these functions in separate boxes. Line converters, amp, dsp are all in one 5x7 box behind the glove compartment.

Wiring this unit is not plug and play but they do make a plug in cable that can be spliced into the factory harness. I am hoping that plug you see behind the headset has all the connections necessarily. That would be killer.

The other components made by Nakamichi are great deals. The component speakers for the front are $130. Coax rears are $70. The powered underseat sub is $130.

 

[Darnon]

I intend to start with a DSP amplifier NDSK4085A. It is being sold all over for around $250. For those who do not know, a digital signal processor takes the signal from the head unit which in this day and age is pretty good and splits it up to separate signals for each speaker, 6 of them. Each one of these signals has it's own equalizer, crossover and time delay. The system has a microphone which is placed where your ears are located and listens to music producer by each of the 7 speakers in your car and allows you to adjust accordingly.

Do the Nakamichi DSPs actually have that auto-tune capability? The external connections don't suggest it does. Nor does their website even bother to provide a user's manual for most of them. To be honest their website is pretty garbage overall unless you just want to look at a bunch of spec numbers.

 

[Delbert]

I agree the website is does not explain the products very well and there are a lot of them. There are few visual cues just the model number. The $250 model does not have auto tuning. Some do not have bluetooth, and some are not amplifiers at all.

I saw 4 different powered subwoofers and a bunch of different 6-1/2 component speakers.

 

[jc888888888]

Comparison pics of speaker foam:

pic of direct fit in door:

the plugs are TIGHT and feels like they don’t fit at first, but they do.

Looks great OP! How does it sound ? I am really new to audio and my truck is being built now. A couple of questions if you dont mind ? Can I just change out the front speakers and Tweeters without any additional amplification and get an upgraded result? Crutchfield says on the website that your choice of speakers will work fine with stock radios? your thoughts? Also did you use the speaker mounting kit they send and the plugs? One more question how did you secure the tweeters? I am new to this and need help I believe I have the mechanical skill to take off the doors and get at the tweeters successfully but audio is new to me! Any help or advise would be much appreciated ! Thanks

 

[BootXL76]

Looks great OP! How does it sound ? I am really new to audio and my truck is being built now. A couple of questions if you dont mind ? Can I just change out the front speakers and Tweeters without any additional amplification and get an upgraded result? Crutchfield says on the website that your choice of speakers will work fine with stock radios? your thoughts? Also did you use the speaker mounting kit they send and the plugs? One more question how did you secure the tweeters? I am new to this and need help I believe I have the mechanical skill to take off the doors and get at the tweeters successfully but audio is new to me! Any help or advise would be much appreciated ! Thanks

Of course you can ask questions, without the other posts before me and those who went in blind to tackle speaker replacements before me are a big reason I decided to do this.
So to the question of these specific components, yes, you can definitely replace just these and it will be a sure upgrade to the stock speakers. These are a direct factory replacement and have the wiring harnesses built into the brackets for the door speakers and come with the harness adaptor foe the tweeters. I did find a vehicle crutchfield showed as compatible (‘16 escape) for them to send me the metra wiring harness (which I’ll be using for the back speakers). Those alone won’t be a crazy upgrade, but there’s less distortion at higher volumes and crisper/fuller sound (you’ll hear levels to the mix that aren’t present in the stock speakers). They will require editing of the foam ring.
On the tweeter fitment, the wiring adaptor is plug and play, but you’ll have to just work them into the stock clips (the stock tweeters just clip in with plastic tabs, you can see them in the pic I posted earlier in the thread (and in that pick you can tell the tweeter is seated a little high and I have to wiggle it down to get it to fully clip in)

 

[BootXL76]

As for “how does it sound”, I still don’t have the rear speakers yet, but with just the front components replacement and the compact subwoofer, I think I nailed what I was looking for which was essentially to be a slight improvement on the B&O lariat lux upgrade…. They aren’t broken in yet and they already sound great, filling up the cabin with a full range of sound (looking forward to them being broken in and once I have the final mount and the rear speakers installed). Will continue to upgrade this thread as I tweak/finalize things

 

[jc888888888]

Of course you can ask questions, without the other posts before me and those who went in blind to tackle speaker replacements before me are a big reason I decided to do this.
So to the question of these specific components, yes, you can definitely replace just these and it will be a sure upgrade to the stock speakers. These are a direct factory replacement and have the wiring harnesses built into the brackets for the door speakers and come with the harness adaptor foe the tweeters. I did find a vehicle crutchfield showed as compatible (‘16 escape) for them to send me the metra wiring harness (which I’ll be using for the back speakers). Those alone won’t be a crazy upgrade, but there’s less distortion at higher volumes and crisper/fuller sound (you’ll hear levels to the mix that aren’t present in the stock speakers). They will require editing of the foam ring.
On the tweeter fitment, the wiring adaptor is plug and play, but you’ll have to just work them into the stock clips (the stock tweeters just clip in with plastic tabs, you can see them in the pic I posted earlier in the thread (and in that pick you can tell the tweeter is seated a little high and I have to wiggle it down to get it to fully clip in)

Thanks so much! I think I am going to tackle it ! One last question When you say edit the foam ring on the door speakers . What did that entail ? Is there any other speaker you would recommend so I wouldn't have to edit the foam ring. I wouldn't be afraid of spending reasonably more money to get something that would plug and play without the edit? Now at the risk of sounding stupid . I have read if you go too high end on the speakers you will not get what pay for out of them with additional amplification and I am trying to stay away from that. I am looking for better sound ,Crazy big volume is not my goal Regard,s

 

[BootXL76]

Still waiting on the 4x6s, may not be here til the end of the month (but I ordered from Australia, didn’t expect them quickly) -(also starting to question the fit of these particular 4x6s…. I’m confident in being able to custom mount 4x6s in there, but these magnets are a little bigger than I accounted for (though the hole in actual frame seems bigger than typical for 4” so we’ll see if I can make them work - may order some 4” as well as a backup)
Finished up my mounting board and configure/fit…. I still have some final touches to do on wiring but here’s what it’ll look like and some pics of the board. Wrapped a piece of mdf in sound deadening mat and then wrapped it in sub box carpet…. Put a lot of deadening behind and worked some mounting boards into the factory bracket (pushed in those clips that stick out on that bracket to make it as flat across as possible)

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[BenGalFan]

The Power Bass plug and play aspect is really nice. I've seen some good reviews of them online. I might switch up to the factory SONY speakers when mine crap out. The Sony speakers were in the Focus RS and have the same connectors too. The Sony speakers have a way larger Magnet and better speaker composition then the factory Maverick ones.

Where might one find these Ford/Sony speakers? did a quick search and didn't really find them to buy new anywhere. Assuming they would have to be a pull from some other Ford vehicle when somebody upgraded or from a salvage yard.

 

[BenGalFan]

For the SUB install, where are you tapping for the power and audio feeds?

 

[BootXL76]

Where might one find these Ford/Sony speakers? did a quick search and didn't really find them to buy new anywhere. Assuming they would have to be a pull from some other Ford vehicle when somebody upgraded or from a salvage yard.

I don’t know about the Sony ones but focal makes direct plug and play as well (where the tweeters will fit into the stock brackets) but the few reviews I could find didn’t seem like they were worth almost 3x the cost of the powerbass ones
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-LkEK1...-dqQI5BR3plqeihlvzBnpbZ5IUSdO44hoCdWQQAvD_BwE

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