Maverick Lobo Autocross Testing & Handling Upgrades

[DMS]

Good stuff, actually looks quick! The Lobo is actually quite quick from 0-45 or so when pushing hard.

I can see the brake modulation issue.
They do bite hard initially, with a short throw.
But have minimal modulation, esp with stock tires.
So easy to lock up the stockers fully.

Body roll looks minimal! I bet the lowering springs help.

The "auto up shift" in Manual mode is quite annoying.
Sometimes you just need to send it and hold it at a high RPM instead of upshifting, especially on a track where you want to be 'setup for the next corner'.

For the ESC, I think Lobo mode does it already. But can you press-and-hold the ESC button on the console and deactivate it further?
I know you can do it in some modes. But not sure if it makes any difference in Lobo.

In my FoST, I'd get in and press that button for 'Sport' mode everytime. I actually found the 'sport' mode worked well for the FoST because it still would brake the corners for brake torque vectoring. Not sure how bene that is on the AWD and a real 'torque vectoring' rear diff though.

Vehicle size is something i'm having to get used to as well. I finally have gotten a feel for its width, and can place it pretty well. But its def still a large vehicle, coming from a truly "compact" hot-hatch pov.

I've tried pressing the ESC button while in Lobo mode, but it doesn't seem to make any changes. I'll have to try holding it down for a few seconds & see if that does something. Hopefully Ford designed a way around it into the Lobo.

I'm waiting for someone to come out with tune for this thing that will fix these drivability issues + give it a launch mode. It's a bit sluggish off the line.

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[DMS]

Here is a possible cheaper option for getting rear toe adjustment vs going with aftermarket toe links. I'll be trying these out.

*POST EDIT*- Just noticed that the Maverick already has Cam Bolts installed from the factory, which should allow for the rear Toe to be adjusted. These are not needed

 

[Sgt.Gator]

I have the 2025 FSM. Here's the specs for the Lobo. It's worth noting that the Lobo specs are unique compared to all the other Mavericks.

Front Camber - 2.0L AWD Lobo/Street vehicles LH -0.67° ± 0.85° RH-0.67° ± 0.85° Total 0.00° ± 0.75°
Rear Camber - 2.0L AWD Lobo/Street vehicles LH-0.98 ± 0.95° RH -0.98 ± 0.95° Total 0.00° ± 0.75°

Front Caster - 2.0L AWD Lobo/Street vehicles LH 5.10° ± 0.90° RH 5.10° ± 0.90° Total/Split 0.00° ± 0.75°

Front Toe @ curb ride height (positive value is toe in, negative value is toe out) - Lobo/Street vehicles — — 0.00° ± 0.20°
Rear Toe @ curb ride height (positive value is toe in, negative value is toe out) - All vehicles except FWD twist-beam rear suspension vehicles LH 0.10° ± 0.20° ; RH 0.10° ± 0.20° : Total 0.20° ± 0.20°

The toe adjustment procedures are pretty standard stuff. The Spec for the rear tow cam bolt is 111 lb. ft. (150Nm)

This was new to me though regarding the rear cam bolt:

1. NOTE: If equipped with Lane Departure Warning (LDW) System, camera alignment is required for the lane keeping alert and lane keeping aid to function correctly.
   Connect the scan tool and perform the IPMA camera alignment procedure. Follow the scan tool directions.

 

[DMS]

I definitely wasn't expecting to see Cam Bolts when I looked.

Diagram for the factory Cam bolts to set rear Toe:

 

[DMS]

*Front & Rear Toe Adjustment for Better Turn-In — Ford Maverick Lobo*

If you're looking to sharpen your Maverick Lobo’s turn-in response, adjusting front and rear toe can make a noticeable difference. The good news? This can be done fairly easily with basic tools.

---
Setting Front Toe to 0°

Steps:

1. Jack up the front of the truck and remove the wheels.

2. Make a mark across the tie rod end, jam nut, and tie rod to track adjustment. (The factory marks this, but they can be slightly off.)

3. Loosen the jam nut 180° & make a mark on it

4. Thread the tie rod 180° inward (turn wrench Counter Clockwise) — or until your initial mark on the jam nut lines up with the tie rod end mark.

Before:

After:

5. Tighten the jam nut.

6. Reinstall the wheel.

7. Repeat on the other side.

Results:
Threading each tie rod in 180° resulted in 0° total toe.
---
Setting Rear Toe to 0°

1. Mark the current position of the cam bolts — front and rear - if the factory marks are missing.

2. Loosen the nut on the cam bolt. (21mm)

3. Rotate the cam bolt 1/4" from the mark. (Center of mark on chassis to center of mark on washer)

Turn from the front side

•Clockwise for driver's side
•Counter-clockwise for passenger side

What it will look like after from back side once turned correctly. Notice alignment of marks now are moved 1/4 inch.

4. Tighten the nuts to 111 ft-lbs. Make sure to hold the bolt head so it doesn’t spin while tightening!

Results: This adjustment yielded exactly 0° rear toe.

---

How to Check Your Alignment — DIY String Alignment - Easy version

You can do a basic alignment check at home using a string and a couple jack stands.

Steps:

1. Center your steering wheel as best you can.

2. Set up two jack stands on each side of the vehicle with a tight string running along the length of the truck, parallel to the wheels.

3. Set the string height to 12.5" off the ground. Ensure its tight with minimal sag.

4. Adjust the jack stands so the string sits:

•70mm from the center of the rear hub

•62.5mm from the center of the front hub

This accounts for the 7.5 mm difference in front/rear track width per side.

5. Measure from the string to both the front and rear edges of each wheel rim.

•If the distances are equal, toe is neutral.
•If the front measurement is smaller than the rear, that wheel has toe-out; larger means toe-in.

6. Double-check the other side before making any changes — slight discrepancies in the front end may be due to the steering wheel not being perfectly centered.

 

[Maverick123]

Great write up!

PS for folks who aren't real familiar with tape measures, the cleat at the end slides in and out by about 1-2mm so you have to put a little pressure against the rim every time you take a reading if you want consistent measurements. Or, use a ruler ...

 

[DMS]

**How to Disable AdvancedTrac ESC on the Ford Maverick Lobo**

If you've taken your Maverick Lobo to an autocross or track day, you've probably noticed that the ESC (Electronic Stability Control) can get in the way—even in "Track mode". Fortunately, there's a simple way to further disable it.

Here's how:

1. Switch to Lobo Mode.

2. Press and hold the ESC OFF button on the center console until the system turns off.

That's it - you're good to go!

Press & hold ESC OFF button down

Hold it down until it says the AdvancedTrac is off (~5 seconds)

You'll know it's off when the yellow Pre- Collison Assist symbol lights up (Top Left)

This method also works in other drive modes, not just Lobo Mode.

And yes, it is mentioned in the owner's manual... but who actually reads those.

 

[r0tax]

**How to Disable AdvancedTrac ESC on the Ford Maverick Lobo**

If you've taken your Maverick Lobo to an autocross or track day, you've probably noticed that the ESC (Electronic Stability Control) can get in the way—even in "Track mode". Fortunately, there's a simple way to further disable it.

Here's how:

1. Switch to Lobo Mode.

2. Press and hold the ESC OFF button on the center console until the system turns off.

That's it - you're good to go!

Press & hold ESC OFF button down

Hold it down until it says the AdvancedTrac is off (~5 seconds)

You'll know it's off when the yellow Pre- Collison Assist symbol lights up (Top Left)

This method also works in other drive modes, not just Lobo Mode.

And yes, it is mentioned in the owner's manual... but who actually reads those.

Good, you found it.
I tested it the other day in Lobo mode too, just to confirm my thoughts about it.
It also shows the Slippery Off icon in the bottom-right of the display.

Have you tested this to see how / if it effects your ESC troubles at the track?

Something new I found the other day as well was a message pop up on the display about "power cut/reduced" or some such when I was using the brake along with throttle input through a corner..
I forget if I had the Advance trac off at that time or not..I don't think I had it off at that time.

 

[Maverick123]

...
Something new I found the other day as well was a message pop up on the display about "power cut/reduced" or some such when I was using the brake along with throttle input through a corner..
I forget if I had the Advance trac off at that time or not..I don't think I had it off at that time.

Basically ALL current cars are designed to cut power when the brakes are applied. This is since a famous court case years ago where a Lexus accelerated out of control (maybe the floor mat was over the gas pedal? I forget) over several miles until the brakes failed and the entire family in the car was killed in the ensuing crash. It caused a huge lawsuit and the jurisprudence caused ALL manufacturers to disable throttle while braking

A few super high performance cars allow that safeguard to be disabled for track use, but they make it VERY difficult for liability reasons.

 

[DMS]

Good, you found it.
I tested it the other day in Lobo mode too, just to confirm my thoughts about it.
It also shows the Slippery Off icon in the bottom-right of the display.

Have you tested this to see how / if it effects your ESC troubles at the track?

Something new I found the other day as well was a message pop up on the display about "power cut/reduced" or some such when I was using the brake along with throttle input through a corner..
I forget if I had the Advance trac off at that time or not..I don't think I had it off at that time.

I will be testing it out this Thursday, along with the rear end now set to 0° toe, to see what changes it made. I thought putting it in Lobo turned it all off, but it only turns off the Traction Control & leaves the ESC (AdvancedTrac) on. This is most likely the cause for problems I was having as it wilI cut power & brake when it thinks you might crash, roll or spin. Should've read the manual first haha.

 

[DMS]

Strut Tower Bracing

I've noticed some debate about whether strut tower braces are necessary on this truck. In reality, the Maverick's strut towers come very well braced straight from the factory. There’s actually a built-in strut tower brace—it’s just hidden beneath the plastic trim, so it’s not immediately visible.

 

[Chops]

Strut Tower Bracing

I've noticed some debate about whether strut tower braces are necessary on this truck. In reality, the Maverick's strut towers come very well braced straight from the factory. There’s actually a built-in strut tower brace—it’s just hidden beneath the plastic trim, so it’s not immediately visible.

As a rocket scientist - I insist on redundancy:

 

[colinl]

It's worth noting that the Lobo specs are unique compared to all the other Mavericks.

I think this is likely due to the lowered ride height yet still using the same control arms.

That's going to change the geometry.

 

[Chops]

I think this is likely due to the lowered ride height yet still using the same control arms.

That's going to change the geometry.

Yes, the OEM lowered center of gravity will improve both handling & aerodynamics making it unique among Mavericks.

The shocks are also retuned for the lowered height along with upper strut mounts from the Mach E.

Not sure if the strut brace identified by the OP is unique to the Lobo though. All Mavericks may have that…

 

[colinl]

Not sure if the strut brace identified by the OP is unique to the Lobo though. All Mavericks may have that…

no, all Mavericks have that. someone saw it almost immediately in the first year of production, but others have still bought strut tower braces anyway - cosmetics, I guess?

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