Brake upgrade (EBC Yellowstuff rotors & pads) for my 2.0

[HeyBales]

Bedding instructions from EBC web site on how to bed EBC yellow brakes:

• On a safe straight road with no cars close behind or in front at approx. 40-50 mph apply the brake to 30% or so pressure whilst continuing to press the accelerator to main vehicle speed for as long as safe to do so, you will need approximately a clear quarter mile to do this so make sure you have that. This will drag the brakes, get them hot and take them past the 400-500C level required for bed in and you may even smell brake odour. You may feel the pedal go a little spongy, if it gets too soft abort the process and start again later. What is too soft? Too soft means that you feel that the brakes are not responding well.
• Release the brake and coast for a mile, slowly, unless you have to make a stop.
• If you have to abort the process part way through, repeat it as soon as safe to do so.
• Coasting after the bed in to allow discs to cool as you should not park the vehicle with HOT brakes. So be sure you have a road where it is safe enough to do this procedure with no imminent bends or stops in front of you so you can roll for a while and allow discs to cool, but if you need the brakes USE THEM
• Allow the brake to fully cool ( if possible overnight) and repeat the exact same process again.
• Your pads should feel entirely different to before the process, they should feel sharp and much more responsive. This process is called eliminating “Green fade” by burning off those surface volatiles.
• You will see blue marks on the discs after you stop, these will go away in a few miles

The process literally takes just a few minutes.

I've never gotten pads that serious, been able to use a frontage road with just a tad over a mile with only 3 potential lights in order to do some sort of process.
It would take me way longer to find that sort of road to use.

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[basicUse]

Bedding instructions from EBC web site on how to bed EBC yellow brakes:

• On a safe straight road with no cars close behind or in front at approx. 40-50 mph apply the brake to 30% or so pressure whilst continuing to press the accelerator to main vehicle speed for as long as safe to do so, you will need approximately a clear quarter mile to do this so make sure you have that. This will drag the brakes, get them hot and take them past the 400-500C level required for bed in and you may even smell brake odour. You may feel the pedal go a little spongy, if it gets too soft abort the process and start again later. What is too soft? Too soft means that you feel that the brakes are not responding well.
• Release the brake and coast for a mile, slowly, unless you have to make a stop.
• If you have to abort the process part way through, repeat it as soon as safe to do so.
• Coasting after the bed in to allow discs to cool as you should not park the vehicle with HOT brakes. So be sure you have a road where it is safe enough to do this procedure with no imminent bends or stops in front of you so you can roll for a while and allow discs to cool, but if you need the brakes USE THEM
• Allow the brake to fully cool ( if possible overnight) and repeat the exact same process again.
• Your pads should feel entirely different to before the process, they should feel sharp and much more responsive. This process is called eliminating “Green fade” by burning off those surface volatiles.
• You will see blue marks on the discs after you stop, these will go away in a few miles

The process literally takes just a few minutes.

Also, google AI was super useful at typing out the components that are in the brake-in compound. Based on everything else I’ve read, it’s not wrong. If you think it’s wrong, cite your source.

Not sure what you mean. My source already linked and is listed in my post, the ebc website, click the link. If you can't bother here is a photo. google ai is super usefull at getting key information wrong even when it cites a source. ai has been proven to hallucinate as well.
THIS IS THE LINK TO THE FIRST PICTURE AND SOURCE EBC SITE
https://www.ebcbrakes.com/products/ebc-yellowstuff-fast-street-pads/

Here is more info on why the yellow pads are different than before:

"Yellowstuff, although track-capable, is no longer recommended for track use on most cars due to its long bed in the process. BlueStuff is now our recommended entry-level race pad for all vehicles, which as a track hybrid is still great on the street and even better on track. But if you are to use Yellowstuff on the track, follow the below Fade procedures"
THIS IS THE LINK TO THIS INFORMATION FROM EBCs WEBSITE MY SOURCE.
https://www.ebcbrakes.com/race-motorsport-articles/bedding-in/

Cite your source.

Here is the key info. Theirs no longer much copper in the pads. They take MUCH longer to break in on the street for at the limit use. If you are using them in stop and go traffic you won't notice the pads limits. The long bed in process, is what i was noting origninally and this is specifcally noted on the ebc yellows by oem in the pictures, on their main website.

 

[basicUse]

Idea, somebody start a "racing" Maverick project. Hmmm, a "Trans Am" Maverick. interesting

There are at least 3 track mavericks builds I know of. they have alot of custom mods like coil overs, -2 deg chamber etc, the limit on track is straightline speed, though the maverick tuned can corner very well!

 

[Snox801]

So just an update got about 8k miles on them. They are dusty and have the slightest sound when getting off the brakes form a stop.
That being said the peddle feel is far better than factory. It also will stop significantly better than stock. So far I’m very happy.
I’ve run a lot of errands ads over the years. These are my go to now for daily and light track use for newer drivers. They will be eaten up fast in the track. Hopefully they release the blue stuff pads for the mavericks soon. Those will be my next set if that happens.

 

[Bradley]

So just an update got about 8k miles on them. They are dusty and have the slightest sound when getting off the brakes form a stop.
That being said the peddle feel is far better than factory. It also will stop significantly better than stock. So far I’m very happy.
I’ve run a lot of errands ads over the years. These are my go to now for daily and light track use for newer drivers. They will be eaten up fast in the track. Hopefully they release the blue stuff pads for the mavericks soon. Those will be my next set if that happens.

I'm quite aways from needing brakes with only 125 total miles on my MAV. However, over the remainder of the year I'll be putting on miles. Whenever I do need brakes I will look into EBC or PowerStop options.

 

[Snox801]

I'm quite aways from needing brakes with only 125 total miles on my MAV. However, over the remainder of the year I'll be putting on miles. Whenever I do need brakes I will look into EBC or PowerStop options.

For what it’s worth I have run a lot of power stop. Not sure I will ever buy another pair after using ebc. I was happy with power stop until I tried the ebc. They are more money but a much better product

 

[basicUse]

If you didn't i recommend using the silicon high temp grease on the sliding brackets / areas and the back of the pads. They work well as anti squeal. You can also hose down the brakes/ wheels BEFORE driving off since they will be cold. watering after is driving bad.

 

[Bradley]

That's not done thru the actual brakes, so anything about that can be ignored.
It's a normal brake job, unless the EPB is new to you, or EBB.
In which case:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/doing-brakes-yourself.62473/post-1049327

Yes, EPB would be new to me but I'm willing to give it a try. I assume the front would wear out first so I will likely be doing front brakes first. Glad to know it is relatively simple.

 

[HeyBales]

Yes, EPB would be new to me but I'm willing to give it a try. I assume the front would wear out first so I will likely be doing front brakes first. Glad to know it is relatively simple.

You'll find that it will likely not be the case for the hybrid. Several threads and posts on the matter, and I've logged that on gentle stops that happen to dig into the brakes beyond regen - the rear's are given more pressure for just a couple seconds.

 

[SalvatoreMichael]

Just bought a full set of yellow stuff as well, before I put them on figured Id ask if anyone has found some good aftermarket brands or performance options for rotors or are we just staying oem? Appreciate yall.

 

[Cherokee]

My factory brakes seem plenty powerful to
me.
My antilock is perfectly controllable.

These larger pads won’t confuse the anti lock will they?

 

[colinl]

My factory brakes seem plenty powerful to
me.
My antilock is perfectly controllable.

These larger pads won’t confuse the anti lock will they?

not at all, no.

 

[basicUse]

Just bought a full set of yellow stuff as well, before I put them on figured Id ask if anyone has found some good aftermarket brands or performance options for rotors or are we just staying oem? Appreciate yall.

Centric on rockauto are good. Generally, rotors are all the same. Some have higher carbon steel, some are cast junk but that's usually very specific cases. Centric generally has cheap rotors that are the right size and not cast. some people get cheap autozone rotors, track them, then warranty them over and over again.

 

[Phimosis]

My factory brakes seem plenty powerful to
me.
My antilock is perfectly controllable.

I totally agree. The braking power of the stock maverick is excellent. I have 255/65/17 AT4W’s that weigh 40 lbs each and the braking power does not feel diminished at all.

Compared to my last jeep wrangler that had the same sized front rotors, the Maverick’s brakes feels like a beast.

With that said, the intended purpose is luke warm brakes with a sharp bite for emergency braking, not for repeated braking with hot brakes while sport driving in the canyons.

 

[basicUse]

I totally agree. The braking power of the stock maverick is excellent. I have 255/65/17 AT4W’s that weigh 40 lbs each and the braking power does not feel diminished at all.

Compared to my last jeep wrangler that had the same sized front rotors, the Maverick’s brakes feels like a beast.

With that said, the intended purpose is luke warm brakes with a sharp bite for emergency braking, not for repeated braking with hot brakes while sport driving in the canyons.

I have pushed it in the canyons as hard as i could stock brakes area great. I have to hybrid so most of that braking is done by regen anyway to a certain G force amount. as a truck the brakes are focused a bit on braking with 4000lbs load on the back to

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