2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation

Here is information on my removable inverter installation and results. My vehicle is a MY24 Lariat with remote start and lux' package, but I suspect XL and XLT vehicles will work similarly.

I originally made this post here, but I thought a search for inverter installations might return better results if I made this a post of its own.

Parts Used:

• 2/0 AWG-3/8" Wire Lugs Ring Terminal Connectors (should have gotten 1/4")
• Clear Shell ANL Fuse Holder and 200 Amp 32 VDC ANL Fuses
• Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
• 2/0 Gauge AWG Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable Wire
• 2/0 Gauge 350 Amp Battery Quick Connectors
• Hammer Lug Crimper Tool

Usage Notes:

• Turn on vehicle into ready state (foot on break when starting)
  • Turn off lights
  • Turn off air conditioning or heater
  • Turn off heated seats and/or steering wheel
  • Turn off any other powered accessories as able
  • Open vehicle menu
  • Go to Settings
  • Go to Vehicle
  • Uncheck "30 min. max idle"
    • Keys must be left in vehicle or this will automatically cancel in about 20 minutes and vehicle will shut off
    • I tested a 1750 watt load for about an hour and and a no load for about a half hour, so I expect this inverter setup will work until the vehicle runs out of gas
• With an approximate 1750 watt continuous load
  • The internal combustion engine (ICE) will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 3 minutes off
  • Running this cycle for over an hour, the inverter got only slightly warm and the cables remained cool
• With no load except for the inverter idle power consumption
  • The ICE will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 20 minutes off
• I tried some lesser loads, like 2 incandescent bulbs and a blow dryer on low
  • The cycle was about 3 minutes with the ICE running and 12 minutes off
• I didn't use the cables that came with the inverter
  • I used this wiring size calculator to determine my cable requirements
  • You'll note in the image that my cables are much longer than needed to sit the inverter on the seat or floor, so I'll be shortening them a foot or two soon to reduce the voltage drop and increase efficiency

My expected uses for this setup is to supply occasional power to appliances during an extended power outage, to supply power for my wood working tools (lathe, drill, grinder, etc.) when doing demos and craft shows where AC power is not available, and possibly when car camping. Thus, I didn't want to make a permanent installation of the inverter behind or under the seat. Having it sit on top the back seat or on the floor is fine. I'll store the inverter, with the cables and quick-connect attached) in the closet until I need it.

PS. I don't have any device or combinationof devices that I intend to power that has a full load draw over 1000 watts.

PPS. Image file added.

PPPS. Cables shortened to about two feet. Inverter now needs to sit on the floorboards.

Excellent guide - thank you!

I’ve been wondering about this. The Prius will let you run the a/c and just run the engine a couple minutes a few times an hour. Small people can actually camp in one. (Not me for sure).

But… a teardrop camper could be powered this way. Basically the ICE engine becomes a smooth quiet generator that only occasionally runs.

I Camp in a Pruis and not small, just extend feet between front seats, lol.
But they are right great way to run an A/C in a pull along camper or camper shell. Got the rear window to pass the power cords

Montauk said:

Basically the ICE engine becomes a smooth quiet generator that only occasionally runs.

Click to expand...

I've thought the same, but I'm not sure it would work during the night. I haven't measured the decibels on the truck, but it's not that quiet. I know if I were in a nearby tent or pop-up, I'd be knocking on your camper to say to turn it off. You'll also need a theft deterrent, since you are leaving the keys in the vehicle. Possibly one of those steering wheel clubs. I know I can lock the vehicle with a second set of keys still in it, but if someone jimmies the door or breaks a window, they can just drive off.

TimeOutside said:

Here is information on my removable inverter installation and results. My vehicle is a MY24 Lariat with remote start and lux' package, but I suspect XL and XLT vehicles will work similarly.

I originally made this post here, but I thought a search for inverter installations might return better results if I made this a post of its own.

Parts Used:

• 2/0 AWG-3/8" Wire Lugs Ring Terminal Connectors (should have gotten 1/4")
• Clear Shell ANL Fuse Holder and 200 Amp 32 VDC ANL Fuses
• Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
• 2/0 Gauge AWG Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable Wire
• 2/0 Gauge 350 Amp Battery Quick Connectors
• Hammer Lug Crimper Tool

Usage Notes:

• Turn on vehicle into ready state (foot on break when starting)
  • Turn off lights
  • Turn off air conditioning or heater
  • Turn off heated seats and/or steering wheel
  • Turn off any other powered accessories as able
  • Open vehicle menu
  • Go to Settings
  • Go to Vehicle
  • Uncheck "30 min. max idle"
    • Keys must be left in vehicle or this will automatically cancel in about 20 minutes and vehicle will shut off
    • I tested a 1750 watt load for about an hour and and a no load for about a half hour, so I expect this inverter setup will work until the vehicle runs out of gas
• With an approximate 1750 watt continuous load
  • The internal combustion engine (ICE) will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 3 minutes off
  • Running this cycle for over an hour, the inverter got only slightly warm and the cables remained cool
• With no load except for the inverter idle power consumption
  • The ICE will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 20 minutes off
• I tried some lesser loads, like 2 incandescent bulbs and a blow dryer on low
  • The cycle was about 3 minutes with the ICE running and 12 minutes off
• I didn't use the cables that came with the inverter
  • I used this wiring size calculator to determine my cable requirements
  • You'll note in the image that my cables are much longer than needed to sit the inverter on the seat or floor, so I'll be shortening them a foot or two soon to reduce the voltage drop and increase efficiency

My expected uses for this setup is to supply occasional power to appliances during an extended power outage, to supply power for my wood working tools (lathe, drill, grinder, etc.) when doing demos and craft shows where AC power is not available, and possibly when car camping. Thus, I didn't want to make a permanent installation of the inverter behind or under the seat. Having it sit on top the back seat or on the floor is fine. I'll store the inverter, with the cables and quick-connect attached) in the closet until I need it.

PS. I don't have any device or combinationof devices that I intend to power that has a full load draw over 1000 watts.

PPS. Image file added.

PPPS. Cables shortened to about two feet. Inverter now needs to sit on the floorboards.

Click to expand...

I just want to run a coffee pot for camping, LOL I was really disappointed when the AC plug in the bed would not run it... LOL This is great!

wax87 said:

I just want to run a coffee pot for camping...

Click to expand...

Yeah, most coffee pots take around 1500 watts. You can search Amazon for "Coffee Maker Low Watts". There are several that run 600 to 800 watts. The only one I found that would work on the truck's AC output is this one. It is 350 watts.

TimeOutside said:

Here is information on my removable inverter installation and results. My vehicle is a MY24 Lariat with remote start and lux' package, but I suspect XL and XLT vehicles will work similarly.

I originally made this post here, but I thought a search for inverter installations might return better results if I made this a post of its own.

Parts Used:

• 2/0 AWG-3/8" Wire Lugs Ring Terminal Connectors (should have gotten 1/4")
• Clear Shell ANL Fuse Holder and 200 Amp 32 VDC ANL Fuses
• Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
• 2/0 Gauge AWG Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable Wire
• 2/0 Gauge 350 Amp Battery Quick Connectors
• Hammer Lug Crimper Tool

Usage Notes:

• Turn on vehicle into ready state (foot on break when starting)
  • Turn off lights
  • Turn off air conditioning or heater
  • Turn off heated seats and/or steering wheel
  • Turn off any other powered accessories as able
  • Open vehicle menu
  • Go to Settings
  • Go to Vehicle
  • Uncheck "30 min. max idle"
    • Keys must be left in vehicle or this will automatically cancel in about 20 minutes and vehicle will shut off
    • I tested a 1750 watt load for about an hour and and a no load for about a half hour, so I expect this inverter setup will work until the vehicle runs out of gas
• With an approximate 1750 watt continuous load
  • The internal combustion engine (ICE) will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 3 minutes off
  • Running this cycle for over an hour, the inverter got only slightly warm and the cables remained cool
• With no load except for the inverter idle power consumption
  • The ICE will cycle through approximately 3 minutes running and 20 minutes off
• I tried some lesser loads, like 2 incandescent bulbs and a blow dryer on low
  • The cycle was about 3 minutes with the ICE running and 12 minutes off
• I didn't use the cables that came with the inverter
  • I used this wiring size calculator to determine my cable requirements
  • You'll note in the image that my cables are much longer than needed to sit the inverter on the seat or floor, so I'll be shortening them a foot or two soon to reduce the voltage drop and increase efficiency

My expected uses for this setup is to supply occasional power to appliances during an extended power outage, to supply power for my wood working tools (lathe, drill, grinder, etc.) when doing demos and craft shows where AC power is not available, and possibly when car camping. Thus, I didn't want to make a permanent installation of the inverter behind or under the seat. Having it sit on top the back seat or on the floor is fine. I'll store the inverter, with the cables and quick-connect attached) in the closet until I need it.

PS. I don't have any device or combinationof devices that I intend to power that has a full load draw over 1000 watts.

PPS. Image file added.

PPPS. Cables shortened to about two feet. Inverter now needs to sit on the floorboards.

Click to expand...

Could be a good match for my 2023 Hybrid XLT equipped with a 400 watt Solar tonneau cover.

jerrisn said:

a 400 watt Solar tonneau cover.

Click to expand...

Awesome cover. But I'm curious about how you use it.

TimeOutside said:

Awesome cover. But I'm curious about how you use it.

Click to expand...

The cover plugs directly into portable power stations like the Bluetti AC70 to charge via solar.

jerrisn said:

400 watt Solar tonneau cover

Click to expand...

Can you provide some more details on the installation of your solar tonneau cover. I'm looking to charge my Scamp trailer's LifePo4 batteries and prefer not to mount panels on the roof of the camper.

mk1010 said:

Can you provide some more details on the installation of your solar tonneau cover. I'm looking to charge my Scamp trailer's LifePo4 batteries and prefer not to mount panels on the roof of the camper.

Click to expand...

I've installed two 200Watt solar panels, each measuring ‎55.5"L x 27.6"W x 1.2"H, on my truck bed. To secure them, I used camper seal tape along the frame of each panel, between the bed and panel, and in the middle between the panels. Additionally, I placed a piece of thicker foam between the panels and the front of the cab for extra protection. Currently, the panels are clamped with C-Clamps and secured with a steel cable as a safety tether. While this setup is temporary and I'm exploring better mounting options, it's worth noting that the panels are stationary and restrict the use of the bed for hauling larger items like refrigerators. However, since I seldom use the bed for such purposes and have access to a Tundra for heavier hauling, I find that the convenience of easy access to items in the bed from the tailgate outweighs this limitation. It's also worth mentioning that the panels fit perfectly on top and require no modification, other than clamping into place. They can be configured for either 12 or 24 volts, depending on preference. Additionally, tempered glass solar panels should be rated for small hail, but I typically keep the truck in the garage, so this isn't a major concern for me.

8BB is the solar panel size I used. But haven't figured the clamps, genius thanks.

TedTX said:

8BB is the solar panel size I used. But haven't figured the clamps, genius thanks.

Click to expand...

The current clamps do the job adequately, although they're not my preferred option. I've been searching for low-profile clamps, but I haven't found any that I believe would be reliable enough for use. I made a deliberate decision not to drill anywhere on the vehicle, and the panels have about an inch of clearance on each side, providing ample support and covering both the front and tailgate. While I would have preferred a higher-quality panel with sturdier frames, I haven't been able to find one in the exact same size. Nonetheless, these panels are essentially plug-and-play with very minimal effort or cost, requiring only the panels themselves, some clamps, and about $6 worth of 1-1/4" x 3/16" x 30' Foam Camper Weather Strip.

jerrisn said:

The current clamps do the job adequately, although they're not my preferred option. I've been searching for low-profile clamps, but I haven't found any that I believe would be reliable enough for use. I made a deliberate decision not to drill anywhere on the vehicle, and the panels have about an inch of clearance on each side, providing ample support and covering both the front and tailgate. While I would have preferred a higher-quality panel with sturdier frames, I haven't been able to find one in the exact same size. Nonetheless, these panels are essentially plug-and-play with very minimal effort or cost, requiring only the panels themselves, some clamps, and about $6 worth of 1-1/4" x 3/16" x 30' Foam Camper Weather Strip.

Click to expand...

One suggestion would be to clamp aluminum angle stock to the bed side rails using side clamps, similar to clamping Elevate rails or a tonneau cover. That would give you a drillable horizontal surface to bolt down the panels. Loosening the clamps would make it relatively easy to temporarily remove the whole thing in one piece if you needed the bed for cargo.