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GPSMan

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HYBRID TALK ONLY HERE.

The hybrid tows great.

Having pretty much ALL the instruments displayed (up to 27 simultaneous sensors displayed via OBDII port on a scan gauge,) you CAN'T make the engine overheat, assuming proper coolant level and good water pump and clean radiator fins.
THE RADIATOR IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE TOUGHEST TOWING IN 100 degrees ambient. If your needle goes up, or you get a warning, something is broken.

The battery gets hotter in stop
N go, empty bed, no trailer, than it does in steady highway towing. When highway towing, the battery isn't doing much for you. It is NOT getting a work out. Highway towing, in 100 degree heat, the battery stayed cool all day. The battery gets hot from repetitive accelerations and decelerations. City stops and starts every block heat up the battery fast. As so do all those engine restarts in the city. The battery is on a comparative vacation when you are driving steady speed. The load leveling from peaks and valleys, "camel humps" on the interstate do not work the battery as much as stop n go does.

I only type from a phone so will be adding about one page per day over the next few weeks.
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GPSMan

GPSMan

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Tow / Haul Mode

You won't heat up the traction motor when towing steady speeds. Like the battery, the traction motor, the larger one isn't doing much. It's not "helping" the gas engine as much as you may think. It, and the battery charge, are there to boost you only if you mash the go pedal to the floor (or nearly). It stays cool as a cucumber when towing steady speeds. Because it's not doing much work.

Tow / Haul boosts engine performance.
Tow / Haul is best for most towing circumstances but not all. There are for sure some times you want to be in normal mode and I'll tell you more in a future post in this thread. Thumbs are getting numb.

I'm gonna tell you what CAN get too hot later, why it happens, and how to avoid it. Stay tuned.
 

Hardening2753

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HYBRID TALK ONLY HERE.

The hybrid tows great.

Having pretty much ALL the instruments displayed (up to 27 simultaneous sensors displayed via OBDII port on a scan gauge,) you CAN'T make the engine overheat, assuming proper coolant level and good water pump and clean radiator fins.
THE RADIATOR IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE TOUGHEST TOWING IN 100 degrees ambient. If your needle goes up, or you get a warning, something is broken.

The battery gets hotter in stop
N go, empty bed, no trailer, than it does in steady highway towing. When highway towing, the battery isn't doing much for you. It is NOT getting a work out. Highway towing, in 100 degree heat, the battery stayed cool all day. The battery gets hot from repetitive accelerations and decelerations. City stops and starts every block heat up the battery fast. As so do all those engine restarts in the city. The battery is on a comparative vacation when you are driving steady speed. The load leveling from peaks and valleys, "camel humps" on the interstate do not work the battery as much as stop n go does.

I only type from a phone so will be adding about one page per day over the next few weeks.
What was the weight of what you were towing?
 

Mightybeast

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HYBRID TALK ONLY HERE.

The hybrid tows great.

Having pretty much ALL the instruments displayed (up to 27 simultaneous sensors displayed via OBDII port on a scan gauge,) you CAN'T make the engine overheat, assuming proper coolant level and good water pump and clean radiator fins.
THE RADIATOR IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE TOUGHEST TOWING IN 100 degrees ambient. If your needle goes up, or you get a warning, something is broken.

The battery gets hotter in stop
N go, empty bed, no trailer, than it does in steady highway towing. When highway towing, the battery isn't doing much for you. It is NOT getting a work out. Highway towing, in 100 degree heat, the battery stayed cool all day. The battery gets hot from repetitive accelerations and decelerations. City stops and starts every block heat up the battery fast. As so do all those engine restarts in the city. The battery is on a comparative vacation when you are driving steady speed. The load leveling from peaks and valleys, "camel humps" on the interstate do not work the battery as much as stop n go does.

I only type from a phone so will be adding about one page per day over the next few weeks.
Interested to know dimensions of your trailer and extra weight.
 
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GPSMan

GPSMan

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Note: I am towing with:

Added 7 pin connector
Trailer brakes
Proportional brake controller
Added air bags to rear coils
Air pressure in rear tires higher for better load carrying, less heat, less wear, and lower rolling resistance.
And 30 years towing experiences
15 years of towing this exact trailer
(So I know how the trailer feels and behaves with other vehicles.)

And I will be talking about what the maximum the truck can do, not what is "in the manual". And not what you "should" do. Lets just say the manual is "about half" of what the truck can do. I will be giving tips on how to tell if you are pushing your truck too hard.... without watching the ODBII data port.

Everyone SHOULD stay under 2000 lbs for you trailer. But this is not due to capability reasons. And is due in part to not having the above equipment factory installed.

4k is possible and the truck is very capable of this in flat conditions but will struggle in hills and be painfully slow in mountains. 3k is both doable and practical in nearly all conditions WITH ADDED EQUIPMENT. This opens up lots more travel trailer options.

I see few under 2000. But many in the 2000 to 3000 pound range. I'm not a manufacturer. I'm an owner and consumer. I'm just reviewing what actually works. Everyone tows what they will at their own risk. I'm hoping to put into perspective the mechanical capabilities.

Also, I'm usually towing at 62 mph (100 km/hr) and no greater.

YOU WILL break the truck if you tow heavy and try to go faster.
 

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NewMavIL

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I have towed twice with about 2,500 lbs. Both were about 22mpg.

First time was with firewood only 35 miles at 55 mph on flat ground. Easy with no issues.

Second time was towing an ATV 80 miles both ways on hills at up to 55 mph. Tow/Haul mode the whole time. This did not go well. Temps in the 80s with AC on. Regular 4 pin trailer connector and I never felt like the brakes were inadequate. On the initial drive I wasn't using cruise control due to excessive deceleration on uphill climbing. I ended up heavy on the gas pedal both uphill and down to try to build speed. This seemed to fully drain the hybrid battery, then I was getting nearly nothing from pushing the gas pedal. I'm guessing the truck limited power and engine rpm after the battery drained. The dash guage for engine temp never raised, then I got an overheating warning. I immediately pulled over, turned off truck for 5min, turned on truck for 5min to charge battery, then continued at slow speed. Do you think I am interpreting what the truck was doing correctly? Or insight on how to improve?
On the return trip, I used cruise control at 50 mph to let the truck get better regen off throttle on downhill. The cruise control used higher combined ICE+HVB throttle uphill, but countered with better off throttle regen downhill. No issues and worked well, but I likely won't do this again through hills.

Ford Maverick Hybrid Maverick towing observations [*Hybrid talk only*] Mav Pic13
 
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Note: I am towing with:

Added 7 pin connector
Trailer brakes
Proportional brake controller
Added air bags to rear coils
Which air bags did you put on? Thanks!
 

ejouie

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I like seeing people using their maverick's as trucks. But it kinda freaks me out to see people exceeding the 2,000 tow rating. I know it's not going to break the truck the first time you do it. But it can't be good for it.
GPSMan seems to know what to look for and what to watch out for to prevent damage to his truck. Even for repeat use. His truck also isn't stock.
 

Kens2022

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I like seeing people using their maverick's as trucks. But it kinda freaks me out to see people exceeding the 2,000 tow rating. I know it's not going to break the truck the first time you do it. But it can't be good for it.
Kinda crazy how people do that then complain when stuff break’s because it wasn’t designed for that kinda towing. Not to mention putting other people on the road at risk just because you won’t get the proper truck you need! I had a hybrid and the thing was struggling with a 5x8 with a kids atv . I now have a eco awd 4K jugs incase
 
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Rivers90

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Second time was towing an ATV 80 miles both ways on hills at up to 55 mph. Tow/Haul mode the whole time. This did not go well. Temps in the 80s with AC on. Regular 4 pin trailer connector and I never felt like the brakes were inadequate. On the initial drive I wasn't using cruise control due to excessive deceleration on uphill climbing. I ended up heavy on the gas pedal both uphill and down to try to build speed. This seemed to fully drain the hybrid battery, then I was getting nearly nothing from pushing the gas pedal. I'm guessing the truck limited power and engine rpm after the battery drained. The dash guage for engine temp never raised, then I got an overheating warning. I immediately pulled over, turned off truck for 5min, turned on truck for 5min to charge battery, then continued at slow speed. Do you think I am interpreting what the truck was doing correctly? Or insight on how to improve?
" engine temp never raised "

It would be interesting to know what did overheat?
Could be one or both of the electric motors, or The high voltage battery or the oil? Most trucks meant for heavy towing have a transmission temp gauge. Some have an oil temp gauge. At higher speed the oil gets hotter compared to the coolant that may stay at normal temp. At lower speed the oil will be cooler.

Overheating the battery could really do some long term damage to it. If it is the oil just getting a little to hot then just change the oil out soon and it will be fine, If the oil is getting very hot it can make all kinds of problems.

But this is why trucks meant for heavy towing have the gauges so you can keep track of what is going on.

Does the oil or transmission fluid look dark or smell burnt? If not then maybe it was the battery that over heated?

You could add a transmission cooler and an oil cooler. But I don't think there is much you can do to cool the battery.
 

Montana

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I like seeing people using their maverick's as trucks. But it kinda freaks me out to see people exceeding the 2,000 tow rating. I know it's not going to break the truck the first time you do it. But it can't be good for it.
I'd be more worried about their ability to stop/steer in an emergency.
 

DarkStormy

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I recently purchased an old pop up camper that I'm converting to a utility trailer, According to the manufacturer the empty weight was around 1500lbs, after getting it home I realized that the fresh water tank was filled, the propane tank was full, and there was an old battery in the batt box and there was a lot of extra stuff in it.
All said and done I'm pretty sure it was closer to 2500lbs than 1500lb. The Mav pulled it all the way home without any problems at all, the regen braking helped immensely. This being said I would not tow like this for an extended amount of time.
 

Hardening2753

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Note: I am towing with:

Added 7 pin connector
Trailer brakes
Proportional brake controller
Added air bags to rear coils
Air pressure in rear tires higher for better load carrying, less heat, less wear, and lower rolling resistance.
And 30 years towing experiences
15 years of towing this exact trailer
(So I know how the trailer feels and behaves with other vehicles.)

And I will be talking about what the maximum the truck can do, not what is "in the manual". And not what you "should" do. Lets just say the manual is "about half" of what the truck can do. I will be giving tips on how to tell if you are pushing your truck too hard.... without watching the ODBII data port.

Everyone SHOULD stay under 2000 lbs for you trailer. But this is not due to capability reasons. And is due in part to not having the above equipment factory installed.

4k is possible and the truck is very capable of this in flat conditions but will struggle in hills and be painfully slow in mountains. 3k is both doable and practical in nearly all conditions WITH ADDED EQUIPMENT. This opens up lots more travel trailer options.

I see few under 2000. But many in the 2000 to 3000 pound range. I'm not a manufacturer. I'm an owner and consumer. I'm just reviewing what actually works. Everyone tows what they will at their own risk. I'm hoping to put into perspective the mechanical capabilities.

Also, I'm usually towing at 62 mph (100 km/hr) and no greater.

YOU WILL break the truck if you tow heavy and try to go faster.
I agree with you. I want to add an example. A buddy of mine has a Jeep and the rated towing is 2K. There's another version that's 4K and the only difference is that one has a trailer brake controller.
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