WHITE chicken pox marks on Paint, How to Remove?

[scotty]

See how the inner circle is full of something. Doesn't look like the water stains i have seen on other cars. The inner part is see by my eyes as opaque

I am not a bodyshop guy, so I couldn't recommend the proper grit.

I have done a few online searches.. Most have referred to white spots as... Calcium deposits.
I will take another look online in the next few days and see what else, I can find...

Jerry

It is nice having someone to help. I have watched quite few youtube on the matter and read.
I have used clay bar, no help.
Added a photo to give a bit more reference

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[Fcnrwy]

It is nice having someone to help. I have watched quite few youtube on the matter and read.
I have used clay bar, no help.
Added a photo to give a bit more reference

Your latest photo gives more insite..
I can see the "swirls" from what you have tried.

The spots do appear as.. "Splashes" of something that has interacted with the Clearcoat..

I can't see much on my phone.
When i get home (have a 24" computer monitor "TV")
that I can enlarge the spots with..

Jerry

 

[scotty]

Tape off a 2"x2" area with a spot in it. Wet sand 3000 grit, then do a 2 step buff n polish.

I was going to go in direction you suggested after watching several videos YouTube.

Have you ever done buffing? Like what type of pad to use when buffing and buffing product. I do have turtle product labeled compound/polish. I have a drill that I can change the torque on to 1 of 15 different settings (15 being highest torque). What are your thoughts?

Watched YouTube video of cars with water spots, the circle on their cars are water marks. They are transparent in middle of circle. My truck water spots were solid circles.

That triggered my imagination thinking could that flaw have occurred at the factory and took couple of years to surface. Which made me think, would that be under warranty.

Your thoughts?

 

[ABTremor]

It might not hurt to ask your dealer to look at it before you make any more attempts to remove the spots. You could get lucky and they will get it covered under warranty as a defect.

If it's not covered by warranty I would get a quote from a body shop or auto detailer to have them cut and buff the hood. If you've never done it, you can make the damage worse very quickly, especially without the proper tools like a variable speed orbital polisher and the correct grits of not only wet sandpaper if needed, but also the correct grits of correcting and polishing creams.

I've done it several times and it will be a labor intensive and slow process - if you try and rush it, it WILL get screwed up.

 

[Mudduck]

I was going to go in direction you suggested after watching several videos YouTube.

Have you ever done buffing? Like what type of pad to use when buffing and buffing product. I do have turtle product labeled compound/polish. I have a drill that I can change the torque on to 1 of 15 different settings (15 being highest torque). What are your thoughts?

Watched YouTube video of cars with water spots, the circle on their cars are water marks. They are transparent in middle of circle. My truck water spots were solid circles.

That triggered my imagination thinking could that flaw have occurred at the factory and took couple of years to surface. Which made me think, would that be under warranty.

Your thoughts?

That almost looks like someone was pouring concrete and the slurry splashed up.

Id definitely start with 3000 wet. Sand lightly until the water gets cloudy, rinse, dry. For a pad I would recommend an foam finishing pad. I use 3M cutter and polish, but its not cheap. The 3D Speed brand is also really good. For a 2 step I used to use 3D fine cut/polish (swirl and polish) and then follow up with 3D ACA finishing.
For small spots I use a 3" detail polisher, larger areas I use Pressa 6". I've always used a straight polisher, but R/O will help keep you from burning paint.

 

[scotty]

That almost looks like someone was pouring concrete and the slurry splashed up.

Id definitely start with 3000 wet. Sand lightly until the water gets cloudy, rinse, dry. For a pad I would recommend an foam finishing pad. I use 3M cutter and polish, but its not cheap. The 3D Speed brand is also really good. For a 2 step I used to use 3D fine cut/polish (swirl and polish) and then follow up with 3D ACA finishing.
For small spots I use a 3" detail polisher, larger areas I use Pressa 6". I've always used a straight polisher, but R/O will help keep you from burning paint.

Sorry if I am pain in butt. Please tell me what a R/O is vs. straight polisher (R/O = round?)
And thank you for your time.

 

[scotty]

Your latest photo gives more insite..
I can see the "swirls" from what you have tried.

The spots do appear as.. "Splashes" of something that has interacted with the Clearcoat..

I can't see much on my phone.
When i get home (have a 24" computer monitor "TV")
that I can enlarge the spots with..

Jerry

Your desire to help is appreciated

 

[Backin15]

Sorry if I am pain in butt. Please tell me what a R/O is vs. straight polisher (R/O = round?)
And thank you for your time.

R/O means random orbital, the head moves instead of being stationary and is less likely to leave swirl marks or burn the paint.

 

[Mudduck]

Sorry if I am pain in butt. Please tell me what a R/O is vs. straight polisher (R/O = round?)
And thank you for your time.

My apologies, Random Orbital.

 

[Edge Haley]

My apologies, Random Orbital.

Looking at frame #33 this really looks like water drops were left on the paint and "something" (like tree sap) or minerals from your water/rain accumulated for days in wet spots may have damaged the clear coat/paint from the water drops sitting on the paint for days. It would be most helpful to see if other cars under the tree have the same symptoms. Most dealers would not even consider this a paint defect.

My hobby is restoring old classic Porsche's and the worst thing I feel you could do is go to on such a new vehicle with 3000 grid sandpaper wet sand...that's a last resort before new paint job...it'll take off the clear coat and eventually the outside of paint. Highly recommend "Rust-o-Lem Tar & Wax Remover". The Pro's use it because it does minimal damage to existing paint but removes chemical damage... and it's very cheap. If the above does not work....

I would not go any farther than a CLAY BAR rub ON ONLY THE DAMAGED AREA. I'd find an area to experiment with that is not real visible, like the roof if it has damaged spots.

But I'd highly recommend simply locate a good paint/body shop and ask for a quote or suggestion for the cause of your paint damage. Don't think you'll find it on the internet pictures...but a Pro-Paint Guy will probably immediately recognize the cause...none of the paint guys I know would charge a dime for just a 5 to 10 minute opinion.

Your problem is why my last 8 or 9 NEW cars I've have had were Ceramic Coated...chemicals are around $100 (enough for 3 cars) and 6-8 hours of work but problem solved since everything beads off the paint. Water beads off for at least 5 to 8 years...

 

[Mudduck]

Looking at frame #33 this really looks like water drops were left on the paint and "something" (like tree sap) or minerals from your water/rain accumulated for days in wet spots may have damaged the clear coat/paint from the water drops sitting on the paint for days. It would be most helpful to see if other cars under the tree have the same symptoms. Most dealers would not even consider this paint defect.

My hobby is restoring old classic Porsche's and the worst thing I feel you could do is go to on such a new vehicle with 3000 grid sandpaper wet sand...that's a last resort before new paint job...it'll take off the clear coat and eventually the paint. Highly recommend "Rust-o-Lem Tar & Wax Remover". The Pro's use it because it does minimal damage to existing paint but removes chemical damage...and it's very cheap. If the above does not work....

I would not go any farther than a CLAY BAR rubs ON ONLY THE DAMAGED AREA. I'd find an area to experiment with that is not real visible, like the roof if it has damaged spots.

But I'd highly recommend simply locate a good paint/body shop and ask for a quote or suggestion for the cause of your paint damage. Don't think you'll find it on the internet pictures...but a Pro-Paint Guy will probably immediately recognize the cause...none of the paint guys I know would charge a dime for just a 5 to 10 minute opinion.

Your problem is why my last 8 or 9 NEW cars I've have had were Ceramic Coated...chemicals are around $100 and 6-8 hours of work but problem solved. Water beads off for at least 5 to 8 years...

I respect your opinion, firstly. But wet sanding is final straw before a new paint job is misinformation. We wet sand brand, new show car paint jobs straight out of the booth too.

Let me clarify. We sand with 3000 grit (BY HAND/ NOT MACHINE)

However, wet sanding is quite common. you do NOT have to sand off all the clear coat. Lightly sanding with 3000 wet will not remove all of it. Could it remove the clear and paint? Yes, and if you go long enough you'll remove the metal and have a hole in your hood.

I worked for Mitch Henderson Designs in Dallas for 4 years refinishing, restoring. After that I worked for Earth Motorcars doing the same, but more geared toward "Make Ready". Ive wet sanded/cut and mirror buffed more than 250 cars. No issues.

 

[scotty]

My apologies, Random Orbital.

I went to dealership to try and get warranty to fix it. no luck. First guy looked at it and did't quite kow what to say. Brought another guy over and guy looked awhile and suggested sap. Even though I softly contested his thoughts because it has no surface roughness. He was polite but insisted it was sap. Whom I to disagree?

First guy actually took his soft sponge buffer and soft cream and didn't get it out.
But nice guy said come by Monday and I will try another idea on the chicken pox mark without charge.

So maybe he has an idea. But I don't believe it will be any better then yours. Just want to make sure if and when I go at it I don't burn the clear coat.

The marks aren't getting me crazy anymore. I just don't want to lose to much value when trading it in down the road.

 

[Fcnrwy]

Here's your 2nd photo with the spots..

X200 %

X300 %

Jerry

 

[Carlitos_92]

I just don't want to lose to much value when trading it in down the road.

I would still try to get to the bottom of it and remove it, but no one is going to notice that level of surface contamination on a trade-in. Most would just assume sap, or that some animal left some residue for you.

 

[scotty]

Looking at frame #33 this really looks like water drops were left on the paint and "something" (like tree sap) or minerals from your water/rain accumulated for days in wet spots may have damaged the clear coat/paint from the water drops sitting on the paint for days. It would be most helpful to see if other cars under the tree have the same symptoms. Most dealers would not even consider this a paint defect.

My hobby is restoring old classic Porsche's and the worst thing I feel you could do is go to on such a new vehicle with 3000 grid sandpaper wet sand...that's a last resort before new paint job...it'll take off the clear coat and eventually the outside of paint. Highly recommend "Rust-o-Lem Tar & Wax Remover". The Pro's use it because it does minimal damage to existing paint but removes chemical damage... and it's very cheap. If the above does not work....

I would not go any farther than a CLAY BAR rub ON ONLY THE DAMAGED AREA. I'd find an area to experiment with that is not real visible, like the roof if it has damaged spots.

But I'd highly recommend simply locate a good paint/body shop and ask for a quote or suggestion for the cause of your paint damage. Don't think you'll find it on the internet pictures...but a Pro-Paint Guy will probably immediately recognize the cause...none of the paint guys I know would charge a dime for just a 5 to 10 minute opinion.

Your problem is why my last 8 or 9 NEW cars I've have had were Ceramic Coated...chemicals are around $100 (enough for 3 cars) and 6-8 hours of work but problem solved. Water beads off for at least 5 to 8 years...

First thank you for a nice "write up". I tried clay bar without good results.

I did take it to Ford dealer today. Service dept man said I will have man with good experience. He came over and wasn't quite sure what exactly it was but suggested sap. Said you might have to take 2000 or 3000 wet sand paper and then polish it.

So another tech who worked in collision paint dept. with a lot of experience said it was sap.
I said but there is no surface feel. He still stuck to his guns and said sap.

The first guy use a foam pad on a drill with some cream and worked on it for about 30 secs or so. No positive results.

Finally he said come back next Monday and I will try something else, like compound polish. (Maybe that was the product type.) He said he wouldn't charge anything.

I know a month ago I took to dealer for battery evaluation, they washed the car courtesy. Maybe you are right, On way home it rained and few days later seen the marks.

I do often look at truck and wash it about every 5 days because never owned a new car that is now 26 mths old and I wanted to keep it fresh looking.

You said cars you had were Ceramic Coated. And then you worked on them and problem solved.
What problem? Similar to mine? Since guy suggest wet sand; Do you think I should not go to him Monday to try something on one of the spots?

So after having this info

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