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What am I doing wrong? C Type to Usb

samspritzer

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Yeah I'll pick up a C to C and see what happens. Thanks!
I am assuming because there could be so many different reasons but I did experience your frustration. I tried so many different possibilities until I came up with my ultimate solution. As long as it's working, I am not going to try to figure out why! I did have this problem with both USB ports in the truck.

The solution that worked for me...
  • The phone: Samsung S22
  • The app most frequently used: Google Maps
  • The cable purchased on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV6BGQ3B?psc=1
  • The order of what I did:
    • Start truck
    • Start Maps on phone
    • Plug right angled end into truck's USB port. The angle should face towards driver side.
    • Plug other end into phone
    • Android Auto starts automatically in truck. There are no settings on the phone that can be changed.
The only thing I can't remember (old fart here) is if I reset Android Auto on the truck by doing master reset of the truck's SYNC system (https://www.ford.com/support/how-to.../how-do-i-perform-a-sync-masterfactory-reset/). The reason I did this is maybe there was a conflict between Bluetooth and Android Auto and this was the only way I could think of to reset these.

If the above didn't work, my next option was to turn it over to the dealer for resolution on the assumption there could be a problem with the USB ports and/or their wiring.

Good luck!
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GarryB

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I am assuming because there could be so many different reasons but I did experience your frustration. I tried so many different possibilities until I came up with my ultimate solution. As long as it's working, I am not going to try to figure out why! I did have this problem with both USB ports in the truck.

The solution that worked for me...
  • The phone: Samsung S22
  • The app most frequently used: Google Maps
  • The cable purchased on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV6BGQ3B?psc=1
  • The order of what I did:
    • Start truck
    • Start Maps on phone
    • Plug right angled end into truck's USB port. The angle should face towards driver side.
    • Plug other end into phone
    • Android Auto starts automatically in truck. There are no settings on the phone that can be changed.
The only thing I can't remember (old fart here) is if I reset Android Auto on the truck by doing master reset of the truck's SYNC system (https://www.ford.com/support/how-to.../how-do-i-perform-a-sync-masterfactory-reset/). The reason I did this is maybe there was a conflict between Bluetooth and Android Auto and this was the only way I could think of to reset these.

If the above didn't work, my next option was to turn it over to the dealer for resolution on the assumption there could be a problem with the USB ports and/or their wiring.

Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed information. I'll give it a try as soon as my cables arrive. 😊
 

Frankd71864

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Sorry Not familiar with the lingo. My phone is C type and I'm connecting to the port in the truck. Not to see type but the other one. I believe it's called a USB port? There's only two of them on the MY25 in the front.
Hopefully that helps
You are connecting the USB C to USB A? The USB A is intermittent on connecting, but does charge. My charging cable is C to C and works better in the C port. So I bought a shorter cable for the truck.
 
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GarryB

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You are connecting the USB C to USB A? The USB A is intermittent on connecting, but does charge. My charging cable is C to C and works better in the C port. So I bought a shorter cable for the truck.
Appreciate the message. I'll try a shorter cable. I'm connecting C to A. I'll try C to C.
 

jhesse51

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It's intermittent so sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't. It's still charges but the error message happens and it won't connect to the truck. But again it's just intermittent because sometimes I have zero problems at all.
I had the same issue. I performed the “Hard Reset” and it seemed to work.
Good luck👍🏻
 

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retiredmike

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Not a dumb question at all. But it does work intermittently so good advice I will try another cable and see if I get the same message
I learned by experience, don't buy cheap cables.
 

ychuck46

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probably the cable. cheap cables on amazon are frequently an issue.
Especially since he said it was intermittent. Cheap Chinese imports.
 

Fcnrwy

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Appreciate the message. I'll try a shorter cable. I'm connecting C to A. I'll try C to C.
I have an Galaxy A23 and am using the cable that came with the phone... type C to type A (A-end connects to the supplied wall charger).
Sounds like a off-brand cable.
But, I always format my flash drives after every use.. 🤔

Jerry
 
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Phimosis

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It's intermittent so sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't. It's still charges but the error message happens and it won't connect to the truck. But again it's just intermittent because sometimes I have zero problems at all.
I have the same problem with a cheap no-name brand Amazon USB-C cable with my iPhone.

it worked fine for a year or two, but now it randomly throws errors, saying that the device is incompatible with the cable, that the device won’t be charged because it draws too much power, or that the USB-C port has water in it and instructs to immediately unplug the device to prevent damage to it.

I know the problem is the cheap cable, because I’ve had these same failures before.

At first it’s intermittent, then one day, it is just complete failure.
 
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GarryB

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Thanks for chiming in. I ordered another one. 🤞
 

samspritzer

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dochawk

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In general, the following should be decent:
- Anker
- Cable Matters
- Monoprice
- Startech
I forget which one, but I had one of the last two, and both cables went bad quickly on the initial pack, it's replacement, and the second replacement.

But I'll echo that cheap cables are almost always bad.

In fact, the only consistently good and durable non-apple cables I've met are, of all things, Walmart's house brand, onn! I've had, and have, several.
 

dochawk

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I just thought of something else on cords.

The USB spec calls to put out 1A at 5V. Both android and apple have protocols that talk over this to boost both voltage and current; you shouldn't be able to draw more than five watts without one of those protocols negotiating.

Your cable needs to handle at least the current you're going to draw (or, for that matter, your device is going to request!).
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