Tapping Power Under the Hood

[AbnRgr]

I’m looking to overcome my hesitancy as to where to draw power from under the hood (24 XLT hybrid). I have a switch panel and control box (relay controlled) with the control box mounted up against the firewall in the engine compartment. I had been thinking of going to the post under the red cap for my positive source for flood and fog LEDs. Another member indicates he went to the post under the black cap for lighting his LED lights. I’m looking for others with experience drawing from under the hood and asking what you used. Thanks for any help.

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[Exranger]

Just put a fuse or breaker if you go to the battery post. The magic smoke only comes out once…

 

[AbnRgr]

Just put a fuse or breaker if you go to the battery post. The magic smoke only comes out once…

The control unit has an independent resettable circuit breaker and the six individual switch circuits are separately fused.

 

[Johnkn]

Just put a fuse or breaker if you go to the battery post. The magic smoke only comes out once…

The OP has a hybrid with the battery under the back seat...

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[AbnRgr]

I’m looking to overcome my hesitancy as to where to draw power from under the hood (24 XLT hybrid). I have a switch panel and control box (relay controlled) with the control box mounted up against the firewall in the engine compartment. I had been thinking of going to the post under the red cap for my positive source for flood and fog LEDs. Another member indicates he went to the post under the black cap for lighting his LED lights. I’m looking for others with experience drawing from under the hood and asking what you used. Thanks for any help.

OK. I found my own answer. I believe the post under the black cover is the correct location to hook up the positive lead for the unit’s control box. in addition to the guidance provided by another member, I watched Diode Dynamics installation video for their fog light kit. They clearly identified the black post as their power connection. On to the installation of my own fog lights.

 

[Exranger]

The OP has a hybrid with the battery under the back seat...

.

He sounded like he was trying to connect to the + jump connector under the hood. I meant the jump post under the hood. You are correct about the battery. Either way he needs a fuse.

 

[Exranger]

The control unit has an independent resettable circuit breaker and the six individual switch circuits are separately fused.

Ok as long as it has a fuse or breaker

 

[RDRahn]

I’m looking to overcome my hesitancy as to where to draw power from under the hood (24 XLT hybrid). I have a switch panel and control box (relay controlled) with the control box mounted up against the firewall in the engine compartment. I had been thinking of going to the post under the red cap for my positive source for flood and fog LEDs. Another member indicates he went to the post under the black cap for lighting his LED lights. I’m looking for others with experience drawing from under the hood and asking what you used. Thanks for any help.

Not sure this will help, but I tapped into a wire on my Lariat Hybrid for underhood LED lighting. Power draw is minimal and not sure what you need so unsure if it will work for you, but look at just before 5 minute mark in this video I made about the install. It will show you where I got power under the hood for my application.

 

[EONR24]

Passenger footwell has BCM connectors with spare pins (on xl and xlt) that can be tapped into for a clean install and for 12v that automatically turns off with the vehicle or is on a timer..

 

[AbnRgr]

Not sure this will help, but I tapped into a wire on my Lariat Hybrid for underhood LED lighting. Power draw is minimal and not sure what you need so unsure if it will work for you, but look at just before 5 minute mark in this video I made about the install. It will show you where I got power under the hood for my application.

Thanks for taking the time to provide a reply. I also will be adding two short LED strips under the hood providing light to the engine compartment. Controlling the lights will be a simple plunger switch. The power requirement is for a constant source. You provide an alternative, if I were to find the my switch panel becomes oversubscribed. Again, thanks.

 

[AbnRgr]

OK. I found my own answer. I believe the post under the black cover is the correct location to hook up the positive lead for the unit’s control box. in addition to the guidance provided by another member, I watched Diode Dynamics installation video for their fog light kit. They clearly identified the black post as their power connection. On to the installation of my own fog lights.

I completed the wiring of my switch panel control box and my first mod, an under the lip of the hood LED strip, yesterday. I used the positive electrical terminal under the black cover and a wing nut to secure the control box’s positive lead. The cable prevents the black hinged cover from closing. I would prefer to remove the cover in order to cut a channel for the cable and being able to close it over te terminal. Questions -- Anyone know how the cover can be removed without breaking it free with force? Assuming I’m a brute and break it, anyone know the part number?

 

[Mrk]

FYI. I just finished installing the RM 156-25 towed vehicle charge line kit. I went with making the charge line connection to the jump post (red cover).

 

[RaFDX2]

OK. I found my own answer. I believe the post under the black cover is the correct location to hook up the positive lead for the unit’s control box. in addition to the guidance provided by another member, I watched Diode Dynamics installation video for their fog light kit. They clearly identified the black post as their power connection. On to the installation of my own fog lights.

@Dad

Watching the Diode Dynamics install video, they tapped power from the BLACK power terminal, not the red terminal as previously discussed/agreed to terminal for hybrid bros

it's been awhile but this is still a no-go correct?

i ask because i do not believe the red post provides enough power for a 40W, 3200 lumens light bar

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[AbnRgr]

I drew power for my six gang switch panel’s control box from the terminal under the flip back black cover. I‘m running Mabett’s roof-mounted light bar, a set of LED ditch lights, under the hood LED work lights, a 12” LED light bar as a fog lamp, Raptor-like grill lights, and a 50” LED strip as a running light with no problems.

 

[BlueSpec1]

Looks like the hybrid's red jump post is a piece of busbar that bolts into the high current junction box after the 300A fuse from the DC/DC Converter (Black X) and the high current BJB.

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