I can't believe you tackled that without the correct sized sockets. Man you are a glutton for punishment!If I were a conspiracy theorist, I'd speculate that this is a way for Ford to invent and sell $150 nuts. Another thing I learned today is that I need a set of metric impact sockets. I blame the French for that.
I have metric sockets. I went ahead and ordered a set of 1/2" drive impact sockets.
I work on cars that are 50 years old or more for the most part. It was new to me and seems like a rather complicated way to build a nut. I assume it saves time during manufacturing and that justifies the additional expense of the nuts.
wow! not only can he be spinning his wheels he might be spinning his nuts :}
THIS^^^.. Ford, and many other OEMs, us these types of nut plates, clinch nut with extended sheetmetal tab as an assembly aid, used them for generations. They are not designed to have a wrench or socket placed on them. Eliminates need for a separate wrench to hold nut by factory assembly worker. The sheetmetal tab acts as a wrench. Worker needs only a bolt runner gun tool to install and torque assembly. Opposite principle is used when removing bolt, tab and nut will rotate clockwise until tab strikes surrounding part then bolt continues to back out. It’s all about making assembling the vehicle in minimal time and with minimum tools so the operating can complete more operations as the truck passes by their spot on the line.
It would be interesting to know the torque spec for these bolts, obviously it was more than you expected.
YES, WE ARE CULT LIKE. ha ha ha ha haEvery once in a while, I run into something new on a vehicle. I was prepared to mount my Eibach lowering springs and started with the rear. Step 1 is to remove the two bolts from the shock cradle. It's a 15mm bolt with an 18mm nut.
The problem is that the nuts won't come off and I don't want to round them off. I've Googled a bit and can't find anything about these (what I think are) locking washers. Is there a proper way to remove them? All I can come up with is to put a socket on it and give it a couple of whacks to try to bend the stars. A pic is below.
I can't believe I'm on a forum asking this....However, I'd rather ask and look stupid than screw up parts.
You must have an awd maverick? That doesn't look like the solid rear axle. I just lowered the rear of my EB fwd and didn't have any issues. No real surprises popped up to speak of.Every once in a while, I run into something new on a vehicle. I was prepared to mount my Eibach lowering springs and started with the rear. Step 1 is to remove the two bolts from the shock cradle. It's a 15mm bolt with an 18mm nut.
The problem is that the nuts won't come off and I don't want to round them off. I've Googled a bit and can't find anything about these (what I think are) locking washers. Is there a proper way to remove them? All I can come up with is to put a socket on it and give it a couple of whacks to try to bend the stars. A pic is below.
I can't believe I'm on a forum asking this....
Those nuts appear to be spot welded on in 6 locations....Every once in a while, I run into something new on a vehicle. I was prepared to mount my Eibach lowering springs and started with the rear. Step 1 is to remove the two bolts from the shock cradle. It's a 15mm bolt with an 18mm nut.
The problem is that the nuts won't come off and I don't want to round them off. I've Googled a bit and can't find anything about these (what I think are) locking washers. Is there a proper way to remove them? All I can come up with is to put a socket on it and give it a couple of whacks to try to bend the stars. A pic is below.
I can't believe I'm on a forum asking this....
