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ZABSMAV

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Or at least put a "Battery Health" widget on the FordPass app. How hard would that be? Every smartphone has one. It's at least as important as knowing your left front tire pressure or your windshield washer fluid level!
The link to Amazon below is for the monitor I put on our Maverick's FLA battery under the back seat. Can pull it up on bluetooth when driving or in the garage. It gives an accurate state of charge. This confirms that Ford has a problem with recharging the Maverick and a problem with rapid loss of charge due to fantom current drainage. They really need to solve this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZ8D71NY
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johnDeere

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The link to Amazon below is for the monitor I put on our Maverick's FLA battery under the back seat. Can pull it up on bluetooth when driving or in the garage. It gives an accurate state of charge. This confirms that Ford has a problem with recharging the Maverick and a problem with rapid loss of charge due to fantom current drainage. They really need to solve this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZ8D71NY
What voltage are you seeing when your truck is in the ready mode?
 

ZABSMAV

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What voltage are you seeing when your truck is in the ready mode?
Drove it across town today and after that round trip it is only at 86% SOC and 12.55V. By morning it will be in the 70% range and 11.6V or there about.
 

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So, you were reading 12.55v with it running or off?
12.55 is kind of low even if it was in the off position
In running mode it should read at least 14.6v
 

ZABSMAV

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So, you were reading 12.55v with it running or off?
12.55 is kind of low even if it was in the off position
In running mode it should read at least 14.6v
It was off. Well, off, except for the incessant click, click, clicks.
 

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I've never heard an issue with the 12V battery getting a response like pull over.

I guess if somehow a badly sulfated battery finally lost it while driving.
But it sounds like you are describing initial startup. Which really doesn't make sense.

In the final days of my original battery, it seemed the BMS was trying to hold back on too much charge on a battery it probably could tell was almost done for, couldn't hold a charge overnight for nothing. Which is appropriate, can end up overcharging rest of it if not careful.

But it's ability at figuring that out was just as bad as it's ability to provide enough charge in the first place.
Battery pushed to the edge over some extended 30 min drives 2x daily for 4 days in a row. Normal work is only 2x 10-15 min.
Really failed to hold charge 2 days later.

From the number of online stories from any recent (since 2005 depending on features) vehicle - ya you do get to become a BB.
More features - more opportunities for things to go wrong with more modules reading/controlling more things. And they can be so intermittent sometimes.
Our issue of constant undercharging does seem to be a Ford skill point, I've not noticed other brands having whole models with complaints.
Some with feature sets may, but that's probably intermittent.

Get a not-cheapest power port USB adapter, that has a Volt display on it.
Use a multimeter to confirm how much if any it's off by directly in the port. (mine reads 0.2 high)
Just note each morning in ACC mode before turning truck on, where is the voltage normally.
Best attempt at a short-version update:

-started using this USB adapter as a rudimentary voltmeter when I turn the key to acc: Amazon ASIN# B0F13BPZBJ
It serves that purpose very well and isn't perceptibly off from an actual voltmeter. I can't grasp under what conditions it stays illuminated drawing power the whole time it's parked, so normally I pull it out. Not distractingly bright when in use, seems ok. Hopefully it will clue me in early the next time battery trouble develops.

-road trip to the dealership; waited most of the day; they did test 12v AGM and failed it. Warranty replaced it, despite not technically being listed for MY24 hybrids, and backordered an apples-to-apples AGM replacement; got me on the road same day and since then no symptoms. HOWEVER, they didn't have time budgeted for diagnostics on anything but the 12v I rode in on, which was obviously death-on-a-cracker at that point, and being from far off I couldn't leave it there for testing. Perhaps next time I'll make arrangements for that -I bet there will be a next time within the 3/36, as nothing was solved but installing my truck's next victim -er, battery- and whatever is causing the failures hasn't been documented yet.

At least I've developed a trouble history that should help me later. In that spirit, I'm thinking of doing without a trickle charger all winter, in order to have my next battery failure earlier than later, and get it in for proper diagnostics then. If the next failure sets in faster than I can react though, I may need to nurse it along with a tender anyway. That's why I'm grateful for @HeyBales suggestion of the USB adapter to keep an eye on things.
 

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Best attempt at a short-version update:

-started using this USB adapter as a rudimentary voltmeter when I turn the key to acc: Amazon ASIN# B0F13BPZBJ
It serves that purpose very well and isn't perceptibly off from an actual voltmeter. I can't grasp under what conditions it stays illuminated drawing power the whole time it's parked, so normally I pull it out. Not distractingly bright when in use, seems ok. Hopefully it will clue me in early the next time battery trouble develops.

-road trip to the dealership; waited most of the day; they did test 12v AGM and failed it. Warranty replaced it, despite not technically being listed for MY24 hybrids, and backordered an apples-to-apples AGM replacement; got me on the road same day and since then no symptoms. HOWEVER, they didn't have time budgeted for diagnostics on anything but the 12v I rode in on, which was obviously death-on-a-cracker at that point, and being from far off I couldn't leave it there for testing. Perhaps next time I'll make arrangements for that -I bet there will be a next time within the 3/36, as nothing was solved but installing my truck's next victim -er, battery- and whatever is causing the failures hasn't been documented yet.

At least I've developed a trouble history that should help me later. In that spirit, I'm thinking of doing without a trickle charger all winter, in order to have my next battery failure earlier than later, and get it in for proper diagnostics then. If the next failure sets in faster than I can react though, I may need to nurse it along with a tender anyway. That's why I'm grateful for @HeyBales suggestion of the USB adapter to keep an eye on things.
Power port should be on for 75 min max.
As voltage allows.
Which means you'll only see that once probably, as it constantly drifts down to eventually turning off when you open the door - another telling sign besides the voltage reading!

During car camp in NY past week - when the truck actually charged the battery to max due to 3 days driving! - I got up to get rid of some water - and noticed both the OBD adapter light and power adapter light on - 5 am abouts, at least 4 hrs since last door closed.
Something got stuck on - Volt reading the next morning was back to bad, so at least the battery saver kicked on before a total drain.
2 prior car camps on drive up, still unlocked - did no such thing. So it wasn't unlocked door. Some other glitch.

Getting that ACCM update now.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Power port should be on for 75 min max.
As voltage allows.
Which means you'll only see that once probably, as it constantly drifts down to eventually turning off when you open the door - another telling sign besides the voltage reading!

During car camp in NY past week - when the truck actually charged the battery to max due to 3 days driving! - I got up to get rid of some water - and noticed both the OBD adapter light and power adapter light on - 5 am abouts, at least 4 hrs since last door closed.
Something got stuck on - Volt reading the next morning was back to bad, so at least the battery saver kicked on before a total drain.
2 prior car camps on drive up, still unlocked - did no such thing. So it wasn't unlocked door. Some other glitch.

Getting that ACCM update now.
It's been over two years since I set my delay timer. (Might have been the courtesy light timer and not this timer even). There were several selections 0, 15, ....75, 90 minutes. That is the countdown to OFF. The tricky tricky with selecting 0 is there is no countdown time and therefore selecting 0 will leave the circuit on until Battery saver turns it off. It may be possible that if someone using forscan sets the seconds to zero on the power supply circuit it will stay on. Seems like I read or someone posted that the time should be set to at least five seconds to allow the computer to have time to have the timer work a few seconds during key off procedure. Just a thought.
 

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It's been over two years since I set my delay timer. (Might have been the courtesy light timer and not this timer even). There were several selections 0, 15, ....75, 90 minutes. That is the countdown to OFF. The tricky tricky with selecting 0 is there is no countdown time and therefore selecting 0 will leave the circuit on until Battery saver turns it off. It may be possible that if someone using forscan sets the seconds to zero on the power supply circuit it will stay on. Seems like I read or someone posted that the time should be set to at least five seconds to allow the computer to have time to have the timer work a few seconds during key off procedure. Just a thought.

That sounds just counter-intuitive enough to be true. I recall setting something to 0 when the symptoms first appeared. (vehicle settings, haven't done any forscan business so far) Thought it was just to do with headlights, but don't have the manual handy to consult. I could try 5 minutes and see what happens as far as things staying on. As @HeyBales said, you can never tell which time something will stay on or pop back to life compared to other instances. That's one thing that gives me pause about getting an illuminated power port / USB jack from @Maverick_Innovation_Designs for the pigtails in the bed -though, if there was a draw happening, tiny LEDs or the like would be a drop in the bucket in terms of SOC, one would hope.

Edit: All I can access from the vehicle settings is AutoLamp delay, which I set back to 10s.
 
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MakinDoForNow

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That sounds just counter-intuitive enough to be true. I recall setting something to 0 when the symptoms first appeared. (vehicle settings, haven't done any forscan business so far) Thought it was just to do with headlights, but don't have the manual handy to consult. I could try 5 minutes and see what happens as far as things staying on. As @HeyBales said, you can never tell which time something will stay on or pop back to life compared to other instances. That's one thing that gives me pause about getting an illuminated power port / USB jack from @Maverick_Innovation_Designs for the pigtails in the bed -though, if there was a draw happening, tiny LEDs or the like would be a drop in the bucket in terms of SOC, one would hope.

Edit: All I can access from the vehicle settings is AutoLamp delay, which I set back to 10s.
The auto lamp(courtesy light) delay is surely the one I set. If you need a longer time for the auto lamp delay you can set it to 15 minutes or whatever and when you get to where you do not need the light double press of the fob lock will immediately shut the delay off. (This will also darken the dash, radio, dome lights, etc if they are still on). It has no affect on the dash and bed powerpoints. There must something else on that circuit which the truck needs to have on to monitor or control. I am going to guess there must be a "weak" ground or one of several which may interfere with proper detection of a relay. But beyond my pay grade. There was one of the updates on my truck performed in my driveway which required 13v fed on the jump pins during the update to allow the proper testing of which items were installed or operating properly. I suspect to maybe calibrate something. ???
 
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That sounds just counter-intuitive enough to be true. I recall setting something to 0 when the symptoms first appeared. (vehicle settings, haven't done any forscan business so far) Thought it was just to do with headlights, but don't have the manual handy to consult. I could try 5 minutes and see what happens as far as things staying on. As @HeyBales said, you can never tell which time something will stay on or pop back to life compared to other instances. That's one thing that gives me pause about getting an illuminated power port / USB jack from @Maverick_Innovation_Designs for the pigtails in the bed -though, if there was a draw happening, tiny LEDs or the like would be a drop in the bucket in terms of SOC, one would hope.

Edit: All I can access from the vehicle settings is AutoLamp delay, which I set back to 10s.
The power points turn off based on the rear PowerPoint timeout setting, not based on whether there is current draw. The current draw of the LEDs for the illuminated ports is less than 0.005A, so it's negligible compared to the power used by the truck in standby mode.

There is a chance that it runs off a weak ground circuit, but since the same setting is shared between the cigarette sockets, the bed 12v, and USB, anything plugged into one of those would trigger it.
 

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I will say that the default setting of 75 minutes is a bit extreme for the size of the hybrid battery. I have the PowerPoint timeout setting set to 10-15min on my truck, which is typically long enough to run bed lights or other accessories I might need.
 

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I will say that the default setting of 75 minutes is a bit extreme for the size of the hybrid battery. I have the PowerPoint timeout setting set to 10-15min on my truck, which is typically long enough to run bed lights or other accessories I might need.
The hybrid high voltage battery has nothing at all to do with the power points. They are run off of the 12v battery under the back seat.
 

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The hybrid high voltage battery has nothing at all to do with the power points. They are run off of the 12v battery under the back seat.
I read that as a description of which truck version - since the hybrid has a smaller 12V battery than the EB has. And prior to 25MY, FLA not AGM. Until we all get the next replacement under warranty anyway.
Prior post seems to indicate knowledge of everything running off the 12V that the response was to.
 

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The power points turn off based on the rear PowerPoint timeout setting, not based on whether there is current draw. The current draw of the LEDs for the illuminated ports is less than 0.005A, so it's negligible compared to the power used by the truck in standby mode.

There is a chance that it runs off a weak ground circuit, but since the same setting is shared between the cigarette sockets, the bed 12v, and USB, anything plugged into one of those would trigger it.
The PowerPoints turn off based on the timeout setting OR by the battery save voltage being reached. The power point voltage reading at my dash cigarette style is as much as 0.2v less than what it is at the battery. Where is the battery save reading taken? One would assume at the positive post with body ground as close as possible prior to any line/usage loss of the many items connected to to bus using their own body ground.
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