So they say it's my battery, again. But is it?

[Larrythelunatic]

At the risk of repeating myself, over multiple threads…………
It‘s important to Ford to maintain a high MPG rating for its CAFE standards. To do so requires that the Mav run in electric mode as much as possible. Doing so, under the current setup, does not allow enough amperage to help the battery stay properly charged. A larger (better?) battery would only delay the result.
Drive around town, slower speeds, more electrical use, less battery charging, higher MPGs.
Drive on the highway, higher speeds, less electrical use, more battery charging, lower MPGs.
Ford could change the charging algorithm, at the loss of some MPG rating.
Meantime, keeping the state of charge on the low side, only diminishes the life span of the battery.
What gets my goat more, is that it considerably reduces the FordPass connection. Can’t start, lock, unlock, etc through the app, something that Ford likes to brag about.
Change the charging algorithm, lower MPG’s, maintain battery health. Problem goes away.

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[rallyshark]

Hard to say. They just focused on testing the battery and that was that. Anyway, it sounds like you have a Lariat with proximity function. Mine is an XLT so the key fob shouldn't be involved in the equation in my case.
As far as fuse 11, that is listed as one of six PCMs. I'm not sure I want to mess with that. If it means anything, they did perform the 23E07 PCM update. Maybe I should give it a few more miles and see if it improves. But spending $200 for an aftermarket battery is off the table.

All of the models recognize when the key fob gets near the truck, not just the Lariat. Just as a test: put your key fob down on the counter for a while, then walk out to your truck with it. You will likely hear some R2D2 noises when you get near the truck. Mine is an XLT and it does it. Fuse 11 has been pulled by other users on here, and it didn't cause any issues for them. Not even an error code. It is only related to the truck sending/receiving data. Like I said, I haven't done it myself though.

If charging the 12v battery better results in a small MPG hit, I'd take it in a heartbeat. All those MPGs don't matter, if your truck won't start

 

[Silver23]

I'm using the following adapter and the following app to generate charts like the one attached:

You can track 12V battery % charge and amperage over time, charging and discharging. For me it appears my problem is the truck just doesn't charge the battery up. That chart is 26 minutes of highway driving. That netted me 3% charge, and charge amps bounce between 0-1A halfway in. Now why it's doing this, I have no idea.

I think it's the battery. The truck is giving it 15 volts and it won't take it.
Bad batteries won't take a charge.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

At the risk of repeating myself, over multiple threads…………
It‘s important to Ford to maintain a high MPG rating for its CAFE standards. To do so requires that the Mav run in electric mode as much as possible. Doing so, under the current setup, does not allow enough amperage to help the battery stay properly charged. A larger (better?) battery would only delay the result.
Drive around town, slower speeds, more electrical use, less battery charging, higher MPGs.
Drive on the highway, higher speeds, less electrical use, more battery charging, lower MPGs.
Ford could change the charging algorithm, at the loss of some MPG rating.
Meantime, keeping the state of charge on the low side, only diminishes the life span of the battery.
What gets my goat more, is that it considerably reduces the FordPass connection. Can’t start, lock, unlock, etc through the app, something that Ford likes to brag about.
Change the charging algorithm, lower MPG’s, maintain battery health. Problem goes away.

First. I have been lucky and have not had any sleep issues but have very seldom had no done light. When no dome light I occurs I will just ready my truck for an hour or so, ice will cycle two or three times and put battery back to about 14.4. although after one of recalls/Tsb truck now shuts off after the remote start time elapses even if started with key maybe wife has remote active on her phone, I haven't checked that possibility.
Second... At the works 3rd oil change at 21k miles my hybrid lariat original batter showed CCA to be 411 but I have no idea what reported SOC was if battery.
Third... In consideration of maximizing battery life I am thinking of a second battery allowing alternate monthly usage so the "off active duty" battery can rest fully charged on maintainer (on when truck in ready state). Be nice if switch over could be automated of course. (How would Ford BMS handle 12v with is own dedicated BMS???

 

[Mikknj]

You've read all the posts before," remote features disabled to preserve battery. Go for a longer ride" it tells you. Or deep sleep mode take your pick. Not to be confused with a no-start condition because that has not happened, yet. I'm on my third battery and the problem has reoccurred. So I take it to the dealer as I want the PCM module update anyway. After about 4 hours they call and say sure enough, your battery is bad. Worse yet, all the T4 series 99R for the 22 hybrid are on backorder with no ETA (more on that shortly). Simply not available and I'm not offered any options other than if you get stranded, tow it in and get a rental until the battery becomes available. That doesn't sound too good. So I call around to several national parts chains and they confirm it. The BXT-99RT4-A is currently not available for order. Well damn! News alert, NAPA in my area anyway has a replacement battery called the Legend (part # BAT 7599R for $199 minus $18 core) that is a fit. But I'm not quite ready for that plunge.
So I decided to perform my own test: disconnect the negative terminal, test the voltage and let it set overnight. The next day test the battery again under no load and compare. The results were intriguing, 12.4 v the night before, and 12.4 v 16 hours later. Hmm. The battery is holding a charge just fine. I reconnect the negative cable and just 4 hours later the read is 11.88v. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything but it seems to me something is drawing it down. Some module somewhere is suffering from insomnia? I don't know. I'm under warranty so the dealer doesn't want to take that much time to drill down to the primary cause. They don't get paid for that. They just want to replace the battery but that option is off the table.
So it looks like I'm going to have to start pulling fuses one by one on my own in the hope I find the culprit. Any ideas on where to start? This sounds like a real turkey shoot, but I have to start somewhere. Thank you MTC members for any help, and maybe this information can assist someone else in a similar situation.

Sorry for your troubles. Your post prompted me to do a remote start on my Maverick hybrid since the truck is stilling for 5 days. (I still don't know what causes this)

However, as you describe above - This has happened twice to me. Where -remote services are disabled to conserver battery. The odd thing I finally deduced: The parking lights are my problem.

I go to the Gym in the early AM - At 5AM I park in the lot and have my coffee. Turn off the main headlights with the rotary knob - rotate to "parking lights" When done with my coffee, I turn off the ignition. get out of the truck... and return an hour later noticing the truck parking lights are still on.... ? I had walked away with the parking lights on. How did that happen? Why didn't they go out?

This happened a second time. So, in the end I'm blaming this on a software glitch. and it may not be just this isolated action causing this.
Can anyone else test and confirm this "issue"

 

[Steamey]

Sorry for your troubles. Your post prompted me to do a remote start on my Maverick hybrid since the truck is stilling for 5 days. (I still don't know what causes this)

However, as you describe above - This has happened twice to me. Where -remote services are disabled to conserver battery. The odd thing I finally deduced: The parking lights are my problem.

I go to the Gym in the early AM - At 5AM I park in the lot and have my coffee. Turn off the main headlights with the rotary knob - rotate to "parking lights" When done with my coffee, I turn off the ignition. get out of the truck... and return an hour later noticing the truck parking lights are still on.... ? I had walked away with the parking lights on. How did that happen? Why didn't they go out?

This happened a second time. So, in the end I'm blaming this on a software glitch. and it may not be just this isolated action causing this.
Can anyone else test and confirm this "issue"

I just tested mine and they do the same thing.
I even got out with the parking lights on and locked the doors and after 5 minutes the parking lights were still on.
I then put the lights rotary knob back to Auto, got out and after a few seconds the parking lights went off.
I then got in and turned the rotary knob to off and got out and after a few seconds the parking lights went off.
I don't think it's a glitch, just the design.
My personal habit for the rotary light knob is either "off" or "auto".
I even keep the interior lights turned off and use them when I need them to reduce the current drain when I go in and out doors through out the day without starting the truck.
As for the Ford Pass app, I always log out when finished "AND" force stop the app on my phone to make sure.
I use to have deep sleep notifications before I started the previous personal practices.
I have not one in over a month..... fingers crossed!
I have been reading about all the drama about the Deep sleep notifications and am trying to avoid anymore......so far so good.

 

[Hdscreens]

I don‘t Know if the hybrid has a negative battery wire like in picture but some of these can go bad quickly into their lifecycle. If optima batteries or similar have a battery for Mav hybrid I’d be willing to try one of those.

 

[RockHoundTX]

I'm using the following adapter and the following app to generate charts like the one attached:

You can track 12V battery % charge and amperage over time, charging and discharging. For me it appears my problem is the truck just doesn't charge the battery up. That chart is 26 minutes of highway driving. That netted me 3% charge, and charge amps bounce between 0-1A halfway in. Now why it's doing this, I have no idea.

I looked at your spreadsheet and this bahavior is consistent with what others have reported. The BMS is designed to only charge the battery to 12.4V volts (roughly 80%) and not to 12.65V (100%). I can only assume this is due to some safety function that a lawyer is scared of (i.e., battery may over-heat if it gets close to 100% and release gas into the truck if the nozzle is not on tight enough?). I have asked the question to the Ford Motor Company troll (both in several posts and via PM) and just get totally ignored.

I have disabled everything it is possible to disable on my truck. By locking the doors, I get roughly a .05V drop per day. Without locking the doors, it seems to be closer to .1V per day. Before I turned everything off, I had up to .2V drop per day. A .2V drop means that the battery that is charged by the BMS (so, 12.4V) will give the low battery warning in 3 days (the low battery warning seems to happen at roughly 11.8V).

I personally connect my battery to a solar trickle charger about once every week or so to get it back up to 12.65V. Figure that by doing this, I should get 2x to 3x the life of the battery since far less sulfation.

 

[23grayXLT84]

I looked at your spreadsheet and this bahavior is consistent with what others have reported. The BMS is designed to only charge the battery to 12.4V volts (roughly 80%) and not to 12.65V (100%). I can only assume this is due to some safety function that a lawyer is scared of (i.e., battery may over-heat if it gets close to 100% and release gas into the truck if the nozzle is not on tight enough?). I have asked the question to the Ford Motor Company troll (both in several posts and via PM) and just get totally ignored.

I have disabled everything it is possible to disable on my truck. By locking the doors, I get roughly a .05V drop per day. Without locking the doors, it seems to be closer to .1V per day. Before I turned everything off, I had up to .2V drop per day. A .2V drop means that the battery that is charged by the BMS (so, 12.4V) will give the low battery warning in 3 days (the low battery warning seems to happen at roughly 11.8V).

I personally connect my battery to a solar trickle charger about once every week or so to get it back up to 12.65V. Figure that by doing this, I should get 2x to 3x the life of the battery since far less sulfation.

I have in more than one occasion seen my battery voltage over 12.4 in the 12.52-55 range after driving. No mods, completely stock. All checked 1.5 hours after driving. I'm aware of the 80% but obviously there are some exceptions at times.

The algorithm, well that's Fords secret but I would love to know the details. I have had one deep sleep so far. Did end up buying a trickle charger and plan on doing once a week charge with 8 hours of rest after.

80% is pretty standard, but how quick you get there is key. You don't want to run at a deficit each time you drive.

 

[acapaldi]

I think it's the battery. The truck is giving it 15 volts and it won't take it.
Bad batteries won't take a charge.

Right, after having my battery replaced the first time the issue subsided for 6 months before returning. Around the same length of time it took for the issue to first surface.

My thought is that it's something the truck is doing to make the batteries go bad. Either intermittent high drain, not charging it while driving, or it just not getting enough juice on short trips.

Something is making it eat batteries. That or T4 Motorcraft batteries are just crap. I think my only way forward is to replace it with a different brand (Either the H4-XEV or LN1AGM) and try to rule that out. See what my charge rate looks like on a known good battery. AGM supposedly charges faster, might be a way to charge more than I lose each day, even without changing my driving habits.

I looked at your spreadsheet and this bahavior is consistent with what others have reported. The BMS is designed to only charge the battery to 12.4V volts (roughly 80%) and not to 12.65V (100%). I can only assume this is due to some safety function that a lawyer is scared of (i.e., battery may over-heat if it gets close to 100% and release gas into the truck if the nozzle is not on tight enough?). I have asked the question to the Ford Motor Company troll (both in several posts and via PM) and just get totally ignored.

I have disabled everything it is possible to disable on my truck. By locking the doors, I get roughly a .05V drop per day. Without locking the doors, it seems to be closer to .1V per day. Before I turned everything off, I had up to .2V drop per day. A .2V drop means that the battery that is charged by the BMS (so, 12.4V) will give the low battery warning in 3 days (the low battery warning seems to happen at roughly 11.8V).

I personally connect my battery to a solar trickle charger about once every week or so to get it back up to 12.65V. Figure that by doing this, I should get 2x to 3x the life of the battery since far less sulfation.

What gets me though, is my charging isn't cutting off at 80%, it cuts off after driving for ~15 minutes, regardless of target charge level. My charge amps bounced between 0-1A when hitting 48%, and my voltage while parked was left at 12.1V. I can raise the target in FORScan, but raising it to 90% didn't seem to change anything. It ignores the target regardless. I'll get a few %, stop charging, then lose it all and then some while parked.

Putting it on the maintainer every weekend has been my temporary fix too, and it has stopped my battery degrading any further for now. Shouldn't have to do that though, it shouldn't need a life support system for the 12V.

 

[colinl]

have you hybrid owners all had the tsbs done for the battery cable and the 300A fuse?

 

[acapaldi]

have you hybrid owners all had the tsbs done for the battery cable and the 300A fuse?

I can't speak for anyone else, but my truck was built on 9/26/22, TSB 22-2340 for the battery cable pertains to anything built before 5/13/22. Should be well outside the affected build dates for the harness issue.

I took the truck to the dealer to have the 300A fuse looked at, this was in October. They said it checked out. Service advisor was iffy on if they actually bothered to check the fuse, but SSM 51598 says there should be an error code in the DC/DC converter, haven't seen anything in there in my weeks of monitoring it with FORScan. It`s putting out some amperage, reluctantly it seems.

I've done A LOT of digging on this and come up empty. Nothing definitive on any of the Maverick or Escape forums. As far as I can tell, Ford doesn't have a fix for this. Closest thing I've seen is owners switching to aftermarket batteries. I don`t know if that`s a real fix though, I thought I was good after my last new battery too.

 

[23grayXLT84]

Right, after having my battery replaced the first time the issue subsided for 6 months before returning. Around the same length of time it took for the issue to first surface.

My thought is that it's something the truck is doing to make the batteries go bad. Either intermittent high drain, not charging it while driving, or it just not getting enough juice on short trips.

Something is making it eat batteries. That or T4 Motorcraft batteries are just crap. I think my only way forward is to replace it with a different brand (Either the H4-XEV or LN1AGM) and try to rule that out. See what my charge rate looks like on a known good battery. AGM supposedly charges faster, might be a way to charge more than I lose each day, even without changing my driving habits.



What gets me though, is my charging isn't cutting off at 80%, it cuts off after driving for ~15 minutes, regardless of target charge level. My charge amps bounced between 0-1A when hitting 48%, and my voltage while parked was left at 12.1V. I can raise the target in FORScan, but raising it to 90% didn't seem to change anything. It ignores the target regardless. I'll get a few %, stop charging, then lose it all and then some while parked.

Putting it on the maintainer every weekend has been my temporary fix too, and it has stopped my battery degrading any further for now. Shouldn't have to do that though, it shouldn't need a life support system for the 12V.

I am honestly determined to find a solution. Unlikely we will but worth a shot.
I wonder if some have faulty BMS's ? https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Fo...OR-MANAGEMENT-Cable/91077050/LX6Z10C679B.html

If a battery recharge along with a BMS reset does not fix it, perhaps the BMS sensor is faulty and providing incorrect readings etc ? Who knows. As long as it functions, I don't think any codes would show up ? I know we have a warranty and no one will throw parts at it because everyone relies on DTC's. If your BMS falsely reports SOC, then I could see the issues you are having.

Be dammed Ford works on a solution. They have a very desirable product. You'd think 12V batteries being replaced left and right and now being on backorder would raise some eyebrows.

 

[Matso]

One would think, I agree. I can say with considerable confidence at this point I can eliminate the battery as the suspect. After three days since posting my experience I had at the dealer, who said it was bad (but couldn't replace it) I have not had a deep sleep or battery saver mode condition. It's holding a charge so far just fine. Weird! The only thing I've done was to disconnect the negative overnight to check any voltage change under zero load the first night. It passed. How could that possibly affect anything? Did that somehow reset the BMS? I have no idea. The mystery continues.

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