SnugTop power lock?

[djb_rh]

Anyone figured out what’s needed to do a power lock on the factory SnugTop? Looks like they have a couple options on their website that probably work, but they aren’t completely clear. I’ve submitted a question through their contact-us link, but figured I’d ask here in case someone already figured it out. I have an XLT with a locking rear tailgate, and it seems really dumb that the camper shell doesn’t also lock, too (Well, it does, but only with the key for now).

Sponsored

 

[Mike]

Cap locks are pretty flimsy even power ones. Wouldn’t lock anything of real value in there. Had a leer power one and nothing but trouble.

 

[TacoHolder]

You're really paying for the wiring harness when it comes to these kits. I put a OEM power tailgate lock on my Tacoma and it was a pretty standard looking actuator, but the wiring harness was specifically designed for the truck and made to work with the factory remote.

 

[djb_rh]

You're really paying for the wiring harness when it comes to these kits. I put a OEM power tailgate lock on my Tacoma and it was a pretty standard looking actuator, but the wiring harness was specifically designed for the truck and made to work with the factory remote.

Yeah, I’m hoping they’ll have a Maverick specific kit that’ll basically plug and play. If not, I doubt it’ll be horrible given the truck already has locking wiring back there, but it won’t be trivial.


—Donnie

 

[djb_rh]

Okay, here’s what I know so far.

First, don’t know how or if it matters, but SnugTop is really Leer. I had no idea, and they seem to keep the website and dealer network separate. But there’s a “Leer” serial number tag on my SnugTop.

Second, the wiring looks like it has the OPTION to have a power lock included later. There’s a fuse box on the drivers side near the gas strut with three fuses In it. It has a six pin input plug on the bottom from the “chassis” and then on top it has two output plugs. One is labeled for the third brake light and an internal light, and has a plug with wires plugged into it. The other is labeled lock/unlock and has a plug plugged in with no pins/wires in it.

So, first question…anyone know exactly what type of plugs these are and thus what pins one can buy to pin them? I know I do NOT have to use them, but I’d like to if possible.

I’m pretty sure the wires I need are identified in this thread:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ock-using-control-actuator-from-ranger.10354/

That’s for installing the power lock in the tailgate on an XL (since that’s the only trim level that doesn’t have that from the factory).

So that leaves the popper kit. Because this is really just a Leer top, it looks like kits made to work with a “1-1/8 hole latch through glass” should work. One such kit is the Pop & Lock PL9555. That kit is about $155 and includes a new latch with keys. You can go with the $100ish PL9772, and NOT swap your latch but be warned: if you do this and your power lock is locked and FAILS, you can NOT unlock it with the key. The only way you can get power locks *and* be able to unlock with the key instead is to get the more expensive PL9555. At least that’s my understanding as of now.

I have a PL9555 kit on the way. I’m pretty sure I can figure out how to wire it directly, but I’d really love pointers on the Ford pins so I could pass it through the box in the topper.


—Donnie

 

[MaineAssassin]

Okay, here’s what I know so far.

First, don’t know how or if it matters, but SnugTop is really Leer. I had no idea, and they seem to keep the website and dealer network separate. But there’s a “Leer” serial number tag on my SnugTop.

Second, the wiring looks like it has the OPTION to have a power lock included later. There’s a fuse box on the drivers side near the gas strut with three fuses In it. It has a six pin input plug on the bottom from the “chassis” and then on top it has two output plugs. One is labeled for the third brake light and an internal light, and has a plug with wires plugged into it. The other is labeled lock/unlock and has a plug plugged in with no pins/wires in it.

So, first question…anyone know exactly what type of plugs these are and thus what pins one can buy to pin them? I know I do NOT have to use them, but I’d like to if possible.

I’m pretty sure the wires I need are identified in this thread:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ock-using-control-actuator-from-ranger.10354/

That’s for installing the power lock in the tailgate on an XL (since that’s the only trim level that doesn’t have that from the factory).

So that leaves the popper kit. Because this is really just a Leer top, it looks like kits made to work with a “1-1/8 hole latch through glass” should work. One such kit is the Pop & Lock PL9555. That kit is about $155 and includes a new latch with keys. You can go with the $100ish PL9772, and NOT swap your latch but be warned: if you do this and your power lock is locked and FAILS, you can NOT unlock it with the key. The only way you can get power locks *and* be able to unlock with the key instead is to get the more expensive PL9555. At least that’s my understanding as of now.

I have a PL9555 kit on the way. I’m pretty sure I can figure out how to wire it directly, but I’d really love pointers on the Ford pins so I could pass it through the box in the topper.


—Donnie

Interested how it goes. Following.

 

[djb_rh]

Okay, done.

First, you do NOT need the complete kit with handle for your original key to override the popper. That info I found was wrong, at least for the latches we have. So buy the cheaper kit. And if you’re really handy with wiring and spade lugs and whatnot, you could actually probably find a way to buy *just* the popper module from Pop&Lock and the E-clip and be home free.

So here are the steps…

First, use the thread I linked above to find the wires you need to tap into. Tip: while you do need to lower your spare tire, just keep running slack out of the cable after it hits the ground and then just slide the tire forward without even taking it off the cable assembly. You’ll get it plenty out of the way to get to the plug you need. Here’s what I did to tap those wires:

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

And then plug in male spade lugs:

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

There’s no need to worry about which wire you connect! Just connect them any old way. If you have them backwards at the end it’s really easy to just swap them at the lock module on the glass.

Then I went ahead and with all the wiring loose I tested the module by plugging it in and locking and unlocking with the fob. After that, install the lock module.

To do this, simply remove the Phillips head screw off the bottom of the latch that holds the emergency release handle. Careful not to lose the odd washer under it, as it’s keyed and important. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE ANYTHING ELSE. Leave the big nut in place that holds the latch module. You also need to remove the black plastic sleeve near the bottom of the latch module…it will expose the two holes that your popper module needs to move in and out of. You can discard it.

Now slide the popper module on. It’s keyed to not only be horizontal, but also to stick out to the passenger side, so pay attention to that. You’re going to push it up snug over the nut that holds the module, and you should expose a small groove in your latch. Slide the big E-clip that comes with the kit into that groove and use some large pliers to pop it into place.

Now all you have to do is run the wires. I went across the window to the passenger side, up to the gas strut, and then down the inside of the frame and through the grommet over the little storage cubby in the wall of the bed at the rear. Pop that grommet out and use a knife to carefully cut a slit in the grommet to insert the wiring through. Then just feed the wiring down the hole. From under the truck, I was able to pull a flap of the liner that covers the bottom of that corner out and insert my hand and part of my arm in there and find the wires dangling and pull them out. Then plug in to your lugs or attach those wires however you plan to at the plug underneath.

Neaten everything up and put the spare tire back and you’re probably done. Worst case you have the wires backwards and you can simply swap them at the module.

It was actually pretty darned easy, I gotta say.

More pics:

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

—Donnie

 

[djb_rh]

Oh, and I did forego any thoughts of going through the plug system on the drivers side. For one, the wiring for the P&L has its own fuse already, and for another I didn’t find anything that told me which wires on which plugs I even should be using. At the end of the day it’s just two wires and the P&L harness also has a set of plugs on it that you can use to NOT have to undo all your wiring if you take the cap off the truck, so it just seemed like overkill.


—Donnie

 

[MaineAssassin]

Oh, and I did forego any thoughts of going through the plug system on the drivers side. For one, the wiring for the P&L has its own fuse already, and for another I didn’t find anything that told me which wires on which plugs I even should be using. At the end of the day it’s just two wires and the P&L harness also has a set of plugs on it that you can use to NOT have to undo all your wiring if you take the cap off the truck, so it just seemed like overkill.


—Donnie

Thanks, come summer when getting under the truck doesn't suck I'll look at trying this out!

 

[gunnmitten]

Underrated thread, glad I found it and thanks much for the write up

Sponsored