it's a reasonable experiment since I don't think anyone has measured or knows the frequency range the audio control module sends to the center.
ds18 claims the frequency response is 120Hz-20KHz... But if all "full range drivers struggle above 4 to 5khz”, not producing over 4 to 5khz would help achieve my goal. My goal is to reduce the brightness and forward sound others have complained about. Exactly what's produced by a tweeter. If you suspect the ACM is playing higher frequencies and you consider brighter and more forward sound "performing better", then by all means install a two way. IMO that would ruin the sound stage. I considered the fact there are already two tweeters up front. And I presumed B&O didn't add a third tweeter in the center by design. Perhaps because a third tweeter would be too bright and forward?
I didn't have time yesterday to look at your link and investigate, but I did now. It's a coaxial. Check the manufacturer page: https://ds18.com/products/elite-3-5-full-range-speakers-with-glass-fiber-cone-120-watts-4-ohm
??
No no no... You're right. I should have clearly stated it's a single driver "coaxial" - invisible tweeter style speaker. It's not the type of speaker that has an "actual" tweeter in it. My bad.??
I'm not trying to win anything, I thought we were having a discussion? Maybe I'm taking 'full range speaker' way too literally or I'm just too damn old.
To me it's a term that means it's a single driver covering a wider-than-typical frequency range and typically it won't play real low or real high. I think that might be what you were expecting also, but I see a bunch of coaxials when I google it including the brand & model you mentioned.
Yeah, Is that the scar evl? I considered that sub. If I remember correctly it needs a lot of power to run it, and I wasn't sure the B&O amp would have enough juice to run a 200 rms dual coil sub. Plus, I didn't want to cut the enclosure.After reading your thread I decided to tackle this as well. The Subwoofer I got had a huge magnet and I definitely had to hack up the bottom of the original sub enclosure, and ended up going through 3 different 6x9 adaptors from Amazon until I found one that actually worked. Definitely doesn't sound amazing, but it's better than the stock B&O sub
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BY1ZZQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yours looks more cool than mine...After reading your thread I decided to tackle this as well. The Subwoofer I got had a huge magnet and I definitely had to hack up the bottom of the original sub enclosure, and ended up going through 3 different 6x9 adaptors from Amazon until I found one that actually worked. Definitely doesn't sound amazing, but it's better than the stock B&O sub
I bet that sounds really good. And reasonably cost effective too.I waited almost a year before upgrading the XL's sound system in steps...not by plan, but by delivery of the components.
The first to arrive were an Infinity Reference four speaker kit that contained REF-6532IX 6.5" 2-way for the front and REF-3432CFX 4x6" 2-way rear. The set was $99 from Amazon. I installed the front using the included adapters plus sound insulation inside the door cavity. I drove it a few days noticing a tremendous improvement on the sound. I probably could have stopped here and enjoyed the sound system...but that's not me.
Next I installed the 4x6" in the rear and they bolted to the factory mounts, shaping the sound with gasket material to fit the cone in the C-pillar trim piece. I changed the sound settings to "all seats" selection. Another overall improvement in sound for me. I did not notice any frequency limitation after changing the sound settings and installing the 75Hz-21kHz 4x6" rear speakers.
Next to arrive was the Puzu PZ-C7 DSP Amp (found it on eBay for about $120, including the plug & play harness). Naturally it had the wrong harness, so I waited until I recieved the right one. The DSP Amp was a super easy install just by removing the harness connector at the ACM and plugging the T-harness in it's place and snaking the DSP Amp leads under the edge of the console and putting the DSP Amp under my drivers seat. Since the DSP Amp I bought was inexpensive and rated at 45W RMS, I didn't expect much improvement, but I was blown away.
I set the 3 bands on the factory ACM to flat and switched back and forth between amp mode and bypass. Again, it was remarkable the difference and that's without messing with any DSP settings. The music seems more alive through the DSP Amp. There is clarity in individual instrument sounds, clear channel separation, and consistent volumes.
I've said before I like the bright sounds of surfer music and Jimmy Buffet's attempt at Reggae. Those of you that have listened to Jan & Dean probably have experienced the duo singing and a muddled mess of background music without definition, which makes it hard to listen to, especially on low quality systems. Yesterday, a Jan and Dean song came on and the background guitars were clear, bright, and individual notes could be definitively heard with a solid plunk. Drums too. Reminds me of my old Kenwood system with Bose 901s in the front and 601s in the rear, probably due to the Maverick Cab acoustic properties. Listening to music like Acoustic Alchemy and Buggs Henderson is a real pleasure.
Finally, I installed and connected the power and DSP subwoofer output to a Rockville RW68CA subwoofer. I could have done without the sub and been fine with in my ignorance; however, after listening to it even at moderate settings, it fills out the lows very nicely. Although it has the capability to hammer and thump far more than I actually want to listen to. So overall, I now have an audio system that is far more capable of producing nice rich and full sound across the full spectrum of my hearing. The sub gives me the ability to listen to frequencies from 53Hz down to 20Hz as well as fill out the bass up to 100Hz.
Another benefit to adding the subwoofer, it gives the rear speakers a more prominent role. The frequency response of the 4" x 6" rear speakers is 75Hz-21kHz and sound great with the addition of the subwoofer to fill in the bass down to 20Hz.
So, overall, the system sounds better with the moderate subwoofer adjustments to fill in the bass. It was worth the nominal $115.00 cost (Subwoofer plus wiring kit).
So, the installation in stages worked for me and I enjoy the sound system tremendously. I've not noticed anything but clear sounds without clipping which happened regularly with the stock sound. Of course, I've not tried to overload any of the speakers. I know what I installed is not for everyone, but it fits with my preferences and compared to the original stock XL sound system it sounds amazing.
Everyone's cost effective thresh-hold is different. My installation was cost effective for me since it was what I could afford.
You're derailing the thread, as the OP's intent was to make simple and cost effective improvements which for sure didn't include a sub enclosure and amp under the seats. There are plenty of other threads that discuss that option. Ground-Shaker makes custom underseat enclosures that can mount 8" or 10" subs.
