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I pulled my B&O 'sub' out completely. The air volume is tiny, because it's infinite baffle. If it were sealed it would need to be at least twice the size, and ported around 3 times the size. It also would need more power.

I would like to hear yours sometime, or someone that follows the template that you've established. I would expect it to perform relatively well in the ~85 dB reference listening range, but I doubt it has the power to really keep up with the door speakers when you get to volume 25-30. It's also crossed over at ~35hz, so it definitely is not going to hit the lowest bass.

I think what you did is a good affordable option and now that you know how it's done, it's a lot less costly than any decent powered sub. The question I have, is if it compares to a good powered sub like a Kicker HS10.

I don't have much expectation that it would compare to a custom enclosure with a 8" sub and 300-500w amp, which is what I have.
I guess it depends on what you want. I didn't want a large enclosure or an obnoxious sub. Been there, done that. If that's your cup of tea then go for it. Like I said, this is perfect for "me"and it is "balanced" incredibly well with the other speakers. It's truly better than I expected. And the settings are flat. If I turn up the bass it really thumps without distortion. I credit that to B&O knowing what they're doing with the ECS enclosure design. The sub I chose required a very small enclosure. Something like .14 cf if I remember correctly.
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Snowbird

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I guess it depends on what you want. I didn't want a large enclosure or an obnoxious sub. Been there, done that. If that's your cup of tea then go for it. Like I said, this is perfect for "me"and it is "balanced" incredibly well with the other speakers. It's truly better than I expected. And the settings are flat. If I turn up the bass it really thumps without distortion. I credit that to B&O knowing what they're doing with the ECS enclosure design. The sub I chose required a very small enclosure. Something like .14 cf if I remember correctly.
You sir, are very diplomatic. 👍
 

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great write up, thanks for sharing!
 

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You sir, are very diplomatic. 👍
I'm not trying to crap on his thread, or his build. I think it's a great option to have, and I doubt anyone can do better for $100.

The OP made references to shaking his mirror and annoying others at stoplights a little, not me.
I think we all understand this option isn't going to satisfy a basshead. But as I stated I would be curious to know how it compares to popular powered sub options, since it costs less than all of them, it could be a great value.
 

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The Maverick comes with a wiring harness for bed customization that also works with the subwoofer plug for the amp. It plugs in inside the enclosure.
I want to see how you did this. I have an old 8 inch sub from my Focus that I would love to put in place of the B&O "sub". If I can do that for under $50 for an adaptor plate. I would call it a win lol. Can you provide photos of how you wire that harness into the amp??
 

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I want to see how you did this. I have an old 8 inch sub from my Focus that I would love to put in place of the B&O "sub". If I can do that for under $50 for an adaptor plate. I would call it a win lol. Can you provide photos of how you wire that harness into the amp??
There's not much space to work with, and I do not know if an 8" would fit or if the amp can handle an 8". But if it works I would love to know. Inside the sub a harness plugs directly into the speaker. That harness couples perfectly and is an exact match to the extra harness the Maverick came with for bed customization. The other end connects to the sub quick connectors. I'm not going to take my sub back apart to show that, but here's the other end
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. IMG_20231030_181418485
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. IMG_20231030_181655642
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. IMG_20231030_181423513
 

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There's not much space to work with, and I do not know if an 8" would fit or if the amp can handle an 8". But if it works I would love to know. Inside the sub a harness plugs directly into the speaker. That harness couples perfectly and is an exact match to the extra harness the Maverick came with for bed customization. The other end connects to the sub quick connectors. I'm not going to take my sub back apart to show that, but here's the other end
IMG_20231030_181418485.jpg
IMG_20231030_181655642.jpg
IMG_20231030_181423513.jpg
So if I'm understanding correctly, you have the red and black leads hooked to the sub? Thank you for the pictures showing it connected to the rest of the harness. I'll post back if I find a good adaptor to use and do the swap.
 
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So if I'm understanding correctly, you have the red and black leads hooked to the sub? Thank you for the pictures showing it connected to the rest of the harness. I'll post back if I find a good adaptor to use and do the swap.
Yes... Black and red connect to the sub.
 
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Thank you for this info. This is awesome.

Would really appreciate a complete part list including potential adapter plate if you feel up to it?

I've been hesitant to upgrade having just purchased but I am now feeling inspired...
 
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I'm sure just about any component speakers would be an improvement over stock. Don't have to chose these. I put sound deadener on the inside door skins, and any other places I found a rattle. If that was too thick, I used tesa tape.

Door speakers and tweeters. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675-S.html I picked these for price and frequency response. Crutchfeild gives you adapters and harnesses for the door speakers.

Rear pillar speakers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004BY1T2Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I picked these for consistency.

Tweeters harness.
https://hoelwiring.com/products/ford-bronco-sport-maverick-speaker-harness

Rear pillar speakers harness.
https://hoelwiring.com/products/ford-bronco-maverick-speaker-harness

Subwoofer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071GCS7TV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Sound deadening. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08YNYBM5J?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Fast rings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08GLHFY24?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Tesa tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NN6B9R6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I made my own adapter so I don't really want to recommend one. But this is one I was considering giving a try https://www.ebay.com/itm/1661860437...Zg04_usTYG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is what I did for my system. Sound is really a preference thing, so my taste may not be the same as yours. But I love how this turned out. And I love that it didn't cost me my first born son.
 
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rallyshark

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Great thinking on this setup, simple and effective. If it sounds good to you, that's what matters :) Sometimes, the simplest answer is the best.

I do wish to make a counter point though. I think you're giving B&O too much credit for enclosure design and research in this truck. It is highly likely B&O had very little to do with any of it, and Ford just paid for the rights to use their name. Besides, if you're talking enclosure design, it is driver specific. Fortunately, free air subs don't don't really require much "enclosure design". In the Maverick's case, it was simply a matter of finding space and a way of mounting a free air sub without taking up cabin space.

I'm not trying to take a poo on your post in any way. I just want to make sure you know that :) I have no doubt it sounds better than the factory sub, and really do like your implementation and simple solution!
 
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Great thinking on this setup, simple and effective. If it sounds good to you, that's what matters :) Sometimes, the simplest answer is the best.

I do wish to make a counter point though. I think you're giving B&O too much credit for enclosure design and research in this truck. It is highly likely B&O had very little to do with any of it, and Ford just paid for the rights to use their name. Besides, if you're talking enclosure design, it is driver specific. Fortunately, free air subs don't don't really require much "enclosure design". In the Maverick's case, it was simply a matter of finding space and a way of mounting a free air sub without taking up cabin space.

I'm not trying to take a poo on your post in any way. I just want to make sure you know that :) I have no doubt it sounds better than the factory sub, and really do like your implementation and simple solution!
Perhaps... You could be right. There's not much space to work with on the Maverick so there's only so many options. I did read somewhere that B&O does acoustic analysis on Ford vehicles. Supposedly choose amp, parameters, and requirements for their B&O systems. Whoever did it, knew what they were doing, and then ford put crappy speakers in it. I did try a couple subs before I settled on the Dayton. It just sounded best. It does have a lower qt, but against common belief it did not like the enclosure sealed. Plus, there's only so many that would fit, so my choices were also slim.
 

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I'm sure just about any component speakers would be an improvement over stock. Don't have to chose these. I put sound deadener on the inside door skins, and any other places I found a rattle. If that was too thick, I used tesa tape.

Door speakers and tweeters. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675-S.html I picked these for price and frequency response. Crutchfeild gives you adapters and harnesses for the door speakers.

Rear pillar speakers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004BY1T2Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I picked these for consistency.

Tweeters harness.
https://hoelwiring.com/products/ford-bronco-sport-maverick-speaker-harness

Rear pillar speakers harness.
https://hoelwiring.com/products/ford-bronco-maverick-speaker-harness

Subwoofer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071GCS7TV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Sound deadening. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08YNYBM5J?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Fast rings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08GLHFY24?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Tesa tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NN6B9R6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I made my own adapter so I don't really want to recommend one. But this is one I was considering giving a try https://www.ebay.com/itm/1661860437...Zg04_usTYG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is what I did for my system. Sound is really a preference thing, so my taste may not be the same as yours. But I love how this turned out. And I love that it didn't cost me my first born son.
Did you us the fast rings on the front door and rear speakers?
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