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- First Name
- Kenneth
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- Nov 1, 2023
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- 3
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- Sunny Florida
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 Maverick XLT 2.0L Ecoboost FW
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
Check out Waxoyl.
Good stuff but like any product how well it works will depend on how thorough a job the person applying it does.
Good stuff but like any product how well it works will depend on how thorough a job the person applying it does.
- First Name
- Paul
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- Oct 14, 2021
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- Forestville, WI
- Vehicle(s)
- Maverick
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
If you undercoat B4 any rust forms it's fine. I had my Maverick rustproofed & undercoated right after it arrived by Bullet Liner in Green Bay, WI. And good to use under body touch less car washes in Winter.
We always garage parked, most of time didnt get below freezing in garage, sometimes, but the NW Oh. slush usually fell off, all our vehicles over the years have held up good as rust goes, compared to comparable vehicles
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I was quoted $175 for Fluid Film then $100 for annual recoating.Just Fluid Filmed our Mav last week. Where I live, they use some of the nastiest salt brine around, and the Mav has TONS of nooks and crannies. I’ve been using FF for years now (on other vehicles), and it works great. It does need touch-ups annually in high wear areas like wheel wells, but touchups are much easier than the first coating. I am a big believer in these liquid-soft coatings that never dry. They creep into seams, self-heal, and don’t promote rust like a rubberized undercoating (e.g. Ziebart). Been there done that enough! While you can do it yourself, be aware of all the underbody panels that are best to be removed temporarily for better access, as well as all the nooks and crannies. I probably used 1 full gallon on this small truck, and I would normally only use 1/2 - 3/4 gallon for a “first coat” on a larger truck.
There are shops that do these types of coatings, and a typical cost is around $300-$400. Well worth it if you are not DYI.
I used blaster surface shield to undercoat my Maverick a few months ago. Took me a few full days to get every nook and cranny I could. Plan to touch up yearly
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OP
- Thread starter
- #24
Yes but salt will remain in all the cracks and crevices, that’s what I’m worried about, also I have no garage unfortunately
- First Name
- Wayne
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- Sep 22, 2022
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- Focus
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- 2.5L Hybrid
I took a different approach to rust proofing after I said something to dealer about Zebarting and he said too many nooks and crannies to be effective so dealer recommended a product tested by the military for years using electromagnetic corrosion protection using Pulse-wave technology made by Great Lakes chemical. Comes with 10 year repair/replacement warranty.
$175 is a great price for Fluid Film (or any spray-on rust-prevention). As with any installer, I would make sure you know how much work they do (or don’t do). Some will clean the underside first with a “de-salt” treatment, dry, and also remove underbody splash panels, before applying their product. If they DO offer to remove panels, I would ask them if they keep an assortment of fasteners on hand. The Mav has several types of plastic fasteners underneath, an some may not survive being removed too many times (or even once).
Members unclerunkle and EchoPear both mention Surface Shield. I bought a spray can of it about a year ago but haven’t really used it myself yet. It’s pretty new to the market 2021-ish), and at least at my time of purchase, was only available in spray cans (expensive and slow vs. spray gun) and only available at certain Home Depots in the U.S. (and could not be shipped at that point). With Fluid Film/Woolwax, I use a spray gun specifically made for these two products bought from (KellSport Products). The gun has a lot more coverage, and includes additional tips, such as a 2-foot flexible hose to get into enclosed cavities. Surface Shield didn’t offer anything like this at the time, so I just bought the spray can once I saw it show up locally in 2022. I see Surface Shield now offers 1 and 5-gallon containers, so I might try it more thoroughly next year. I just used up the last of my Woolwax and Fluid Film, so 2024 will be time to buy more products.
I should mention these two products are largely the same, both lanolin-based. Woolwax is theoretically a bit thicker (both good and bad) and has less odor. Fluid Film, being thinner, creeps a bit better into tighter spots and atomizes into a better mist from the spray gun, but it’s thin-ness also means it wears off faster and needs touch-ups more often (in theory). Woolwax, being thicker, doesn’t creep quite as well and tends to splatter out the spray gun rather than be a nice spray mist, but Woolwax doesn’t wear off as fast in theory). With woolwax, I leave my soray gun bottles in a bucket of hot water to help keep it thin to spray better. I still find it necessary to touch up both products yearly, so what’s the difference at that point.
Surface Shield is also lanolin-based, and I kinda expect it to have similar results but will depend on it’s runniness/thickness. If thinner, it will creep and spray well, but wear off easier. If super thin, it could drip off to the ground for weeks (I used to use gear oil, and it dripped for weeks). If thicker, it will not creep as well, and may last longer before wearing off. If it’s “too thick,” it could dry like a wax, and will lose it’s self-healing characteristics. And if as thick/hard as paint, powder coating, or rubberized undercoating (that eventually dries out and gets hard), it will chip off and contamination/salt will get behind it and make things worse than if you had done nothing at all.
I have been playing a bit with using certain products on certain areas of a vehicle, such as Woolwax in the wheel wells and other exposed areas that get hit directly by tire spray, and Fluid Film in protected areas. I may go another step with this via Surface Shield, and try it in the highly exposed areas on the Maverick, and stick with Fluid Film in protected areas. Both are messy, and there are times I’ve been working underneath a vehicle and kept getting it smeared on my hand/arm and had to wipe off a small spot so I would stop doing that to myself, then tough up again later.
Not mentioned yet, but what I still like about Fluid Film/Woolwax is that you can wipe or power wash it off if you need to. Anything thicker and this might not be possible.
Members unclerunkle and EchoPear both mention Surface Shield. I bought a spray can of it about a year ago but haven’t really used it myself yet. It’s pretty new to the market 2021-ish), and at least at my time of purchase, was only available in spray cans (expensive and slow vs. spray gun) and only available at certain Home Depots in the U.S. (and could not be shipped at that point). With Fluid Film/Woolwax, I use a spray gun specifically made for these two products bought from (KellSport Products). The gun has a lot more coverage, and includes additional tips, such as a 2-foot flexible hose to get into enclosed cavities. Surface Shield didn’t offer anything like this at the time, so I just bought the spray can once I saw it show up locally in 2022. I see Surface Shield now offers 1 and 5-gallon containers, so I might try it more thoroughly next year. I just used up the last of my Woolwax and Fluid Film, so 2024 will be time to buy more products.
I should mention these two products are largely the same, both lanolin-based. Woolwax is theoretically a bit thicker (both good and bad) and has less odor. Fluid Film, being thinner, creeps a bit better into tighter spots and atomizes into a better mist from the spray gun, but it’s thin-ness also means it wears off faster and needs touch-ups more often (in theory). Woolwax, being thicker, doesn’t creep quite as well and tends to splatter out the spray gun rather than be a nice spray mist, but Woolwax doesn’t wear off as fast in theory). With woolwax, I leave my soray gun bottles in a bucket of hot water to help keep it thin to spray better. I still find it necessary to touch up both products yearly, so what’s the difference at that point.
Surface Shield is also lanolin-based, and I kinda expect it to have similar results but will depend on it’s runniness/thickness. If thinner, it will creep and spray well, but wear off easier. If super thin, it could drip off to the ground for weeks (I used to use gear oil, and it dripped for weeks). If thicker, it will not creep as well, and may last longer before wearing off. If it’s “too thick,” it could dry like a wax, and will lose it’s self-healing characteristics. And if as thick/hard as paint, powder coating, or rubberized undercoating (that eventually dries out and gets hard), it will chip off and contamination/salt will get behind it and make things worse than if you had done nothing at all.
I have been playing a bit with using certain products on certain areas of a vehicle, such as Woolwax in the wheel wells and other exposed areas that get hit directly by tire spray, and Fluid Film in protected areas. I may go another step with this via Surface Shield, and try it in the highly exposed areas on the Maverick, and stick with Fluid Film in protected areas. Both are messy, and there are times I’ve been working underneath a vehicle and kept getting it smeared on my hand/arm and had to wipe off a small spot so I would stop doing that to myself, then tough up again later.
Not mentioned yet, but what I still like about Fluid Film/Woolwax is that you can wipe or power wash it off if you need to. Anything thicker and this might not be possible.
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