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****REGARDING DEAD HYBRID MAVERICKS ISSUE****

skinnyboy

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The cable is aluminum. Not any extra length to do anything with. I cleaned off the terrible solder job with a rotary tool and rounded out the wire as best as possible before crimping on a new connector filled with conductive anti oxidant paste. Hoping it holds long term and doesn’t corrode…or ford issues a recall and replaces the harness altogether ideally.
Sounds like you did a nice tidy job, I would bet it will be good for the life of the vehicle. Really appreciate the info for when/if it's needed!

Sadly don't see Ford doing a recall for this since the truck seems to keep everything up and running off the HVB until it is shut off, not dying in traffic to cause a safety issue.

Cheers.
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Mach 1

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Misk, thanks for info, so it is aluminum like we had originally suspected.

So this absolutely means we have to use a copper clad lug. CuAl. Really should use an aluminum lug, however attaching it would be monumental feat, with it being in the vehicle.

We are putting a very good book here together for others that are concerned with proper protocol.

I have some more investigating to do to try to it correctly. I would prefer to solder, however you have to be a wizard to get that job done. I guess clad crimp would be way to go.

Thx for you guys putting this all together, vital info for Maverick owners near and far, present and future.
 
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Miskomd

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Top photo: The cover highlighted in blue is the black plastic cover with a left pointing arrow on it. Underneath is the cable having the issues ("cable #2").

Middle photo: Cable end connector of "cable #2".

Bottom photo: Front cable (#1). Not the cable with issues.

Maverick_cable_02.jpg
Confirming what is pictured here, it’s the lug in the middle pic, under the black cover with the arrow pointing sideways in the top pic. These pics are what it looks like with the fuse box out- the fuse box receiver…? also needs to come out to get any hope off accessing that messed up connection to fix it. Easy to do- a bolt or two, a couple nuts, and 2 plastic retaining push in clips. You have to disconnect the cable and lug in the bottom pic and move it out of the way too. I also used a bungee cord to hold the two cables/connectors that go into the fuse box out of the way. When I cut back the black protective sheathing around the suspect connection, the lug basically fell off. There was some kind of solder on the end of the (quite large) cable, which was also flattened out. It was not connected at all to the lug it needed to be, just held on by the heat wrap. No surprise that it failed.
 

Larrythelunatic

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Clubs
 
Confirming what is pictured here, it’s the lug in the middle pic, under the black cover with the arrow pointing sideways in the top pic. These pics are what it looks like with the fuse box out- the fuse box receiver…? also needs to come out to get any hope off accessing that messed up connection to fix it. Easy to do- a bolt or two, a couple nuts, and 2 plastic retaining push in clips. You have to disconnect the cable and lug in the bottom pic and move it out of the way too. I also used a bungee cord to hold the two cables/connectors that go into the fuse box out of the way. When I cut back the black protective sheathing around the suspect connection, the lug basically fell off. There was some kind of solder on the end of the (quite large) cable, which was also flattened out. It was not connected at all to the lug it needed to be, just held on by the heat wrap. No surprise that it failed.
“When I cut back…………the lug basically fell off”
”It was held on by the heat wrap.”
Truly an indictment of the quality process.
Hate to say it, but shame on Ford for not being more proactive in this matter.
 

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Milton Jeff

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Sounds like its a supplier issue.................
Yes... but.... Ultimately Ford for not stepping up. QC issue for sure as well, would that not look obvious when the lug was fastened to the post? Seems ludicrous...
 

Mach 1

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As i suggested 2 months ago, there is a simple pull test that we used on our wiring harnesses, QC, would do a random sampling at various times in the manufacturing process.

This connection process is a very critical process, aluminum welding at this level is a very difficult process that has a small window of success. Knowing this the vendor should have kept a closer eye on the process/end product. Theres no room for any process variations, or this is the outcome.

Do we even know if the problem has become apparent to Ford yet?

Basic rules of eletrical connections is to minimize how many connections are made(hence its not recomended to attach any additional connections especially with bolt and nut.)

Material construction/usage it should be of great importance to take note of materials used with metallic composition overview, with galvanic corrosion rules defining usuage. This is quite important when it comes to powering processors.

Processors require lots of clean, STABLE levels of power.
 

mamboman777

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As i suggested 2 months ago, there is a simple pull test that we used on our wiring harnesses, QC, would do a random sampling at various times in the manufacturing process.

This connection process is a very critical process, aluminum welding at this level is a very difficult process that has a small window of success. Knowing this the vendor should have kept a closer eye on the process/end product. Theres no room for any process variations, or this is the outcome.

Do we even know if the problem has become apparent to Ford yet?

Basic rules of eletrical connections is to minimize how many connections are made(hence its not recomended to attach any additional connections especially with bolt and nut.)

Material construction/usage it should be of great importance to take note of materials used with metallic composition overview, with galvanic corrosion rules defining usuage. This is quite important when it comes to powering processors.

Processors require lots of clean, STABLE levels of power.
🤔 I wonder if someone would come up with an aftermarket part?
 

Mach 1

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Mam, all is needed is a CU/AL, correct terminology is copper clad cable lug. Its a 10mm bolt size so 6mm hole size (5/16"). It has to be copper clad because the cable is AL.

I am not sure on the cable size 1 or 2 gauge?

Someone will chime in on cable size and if my other dimensions are correct.

A 90° lug would be real nice, since the cable comes up from underneath, but i am just going to bend mine to a good fit (45°)?

Heat shrink the same size of the cable/lug. Some deox goop would put a cherry ot top of the package.

Good idea on putting a little package together, i dont know the selling/vendor rules here(although i have been a vendor on other websites).

I could see where it would be a good service to alot of hybrid owners. Would be real handy if correct parts are offered.

Hope this helps.
 
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Mach 1

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That pic looks like good ol copper lug.
 

KeinoDoggy

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If your in the Atlanta, Georgia area, I have great news!

Here is the dealer that you want to go to:

https://www.howellford.com/

They fixed the faulty connector in approx. 3 to 4 hours while we waited. While other dealers made excuses, denied there was a harness problem, did not return phone calls, were generally rude and simply did not care, Billy Howell Ford was impressive and got the job done.

Their service department and service director are first class, 5 stars, all the way!

Please see the attached pic showing repair. Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to see exactly where this connection is in the engine compartment. I Will try and update later where the exact location is.

This fix makes the most sense since it has not been confirmed if harnesses are still being manufactured the same way with the same problem.

ford maverick repaired connector.jpg
My only question is how is the copper lug making proper contact with the aluminum wire? Soldered or simply clamped (compression) to it. Not a metallurgist but I thought you should never have a copper/aluminum connection as oxidation can occur. Perhaps someone knowledgeable here will chime in.
 

Mach 1

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Dog, u got it, copper shouldn't be connected directly to AL.

This is where copper clad comes in, you can connect copper clad to aluminum, you can connect copper clad to copper.
Copper clad is the in-between connection, if done correcty. They cant be soldered either. Should use de-ox paste at the connection as well.
 

KeinoDoggy

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Dog, u got it, copper shouldn't be connected directly to AL.

This is where copper clad comes in, you can connect copper clad to aluminum, you can connect copper clad to copper.
Copper clad is the in-between connection, if done correcty. They cant be soldered either. Should use de-ox paste at the connection as well.
Thanks I thought that was the case but wasn't certain. Looking at the above photo by "uga" this looks like a compression connection, copper to aluminum, which would be a bad idea.
 

Mach 1

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Dog you have it, you can join the 2 different metals and probably get away with it, i wouldn't do it and it surely is not recomended. Its against electrical code.

I was old enough to remember when the builders tried to use/mix CU with AL, a few houses buned down, its all there, for your reading in history.

I was afraid that this was going to happen, i tried to warn ahead of time.
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