****REGARDING DEAD HYBRID MAVERICKS ISSUE****

[Mach 1]

Uga, good points, i guess i am lucky that i can still repair my own vehicles to a certain extent. I am a semiconductor machinery repair tech. I know a little bit bout lectronics, i didnt even bring up this kind of important point.
Electronics, especially processors are easily damaged by static electricity and VOLTAGE spikes/levels, such damage is not readily shown for unknown periods of time.
Possible damage could not show for years and not immediate. This repair should be performed with static control instituted. I have chased board level chip damage unreliability repairs before and it is not for the faint hearted. So preventing the damage is the way to combat the kind of problems of which i speak. So it probably seems i am a little anal.

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[Mach 1]

Milous good thought on repair, i just inspected the fuse box.
Observations, after removing fuse box top, there is the 2 main power cable connectors that need to be removed before accessing bottom of fuse box which is where i assuming is the fasteners?
The fuse box, which is a connection point box has a number of wires with ECM type connectors.

I checked the back cable, it is fastened underneath and has minimum slack to pull up.

So next move is to access service manual and see what it says. I have access to a service manual to see what it says.

With more to report.

 

[Milous]

Top photo: The cover highlighted in blue is the black plastic cover with a left pointing arrow on it. Underneath is the cable having the issues ("cable #2").

Middle photo: Cable end connector of "cable #2".

Bottom photo: Front cable (#1). Not the cable with issues.

 

[Espeer]

Folks, great critique on the repair quality but consider reality.

1. There is NO TSB, NO service bulletin
2. Many dealers are in the dark with no guidance.
3. Full Harness is on backorder
4. Most dealers have no loaners
5. Would you want it fixed so your vehicle can be used until Ford issues an official fix?
6. Would you prefer that your Mav will be sitting at a dealer for 1 month +?
7. One final note, there is no guarantee that any replacement harness has resolved the problem.

Still no reason they can't do a non-ghetto repair. Would only take a few more minutes.

 

[Mach 1]

Espeer, well said, i thought i might have been a little stern.

Milous, i am following you, yeah the front cable(1) is not even in pics 1,2, its been disconnected and removed so cable 2 can be accessed. I visited my Mav, cable 2 is not easy to access. The invertor is in the way to top and left of cable 2. So it looks like access to cable comes by way of fuse box removal, but still theres no extra length to do repair w/o complete fuse box removal.

I removed the top of box and theres 2 multiwire ECM style connectors under lid. I wasnt prepared for that so i stopped my examination early.

I would think we would need to disconnect negative battery cable under seat, before removing 2 multiwire ECM type connectors under fuse box. Then i got to thinking with disconnecting going on i would lose some settings, so i chickened out and decided to stop there. I will revisit service manual in order to understand how to remove fuse box correctly. Then proceed in the light of day.

Tomorrow is another day.

 

[skinnyboy]

Fuse box just pops out, no need to even remove the two connections on the top of the box, lots of cable to tilt the box out of the way. Necessary to check for open fuses, and covered in the owner's manual.

Of course remove the negative cable from the 12v before hand.

As indicated there doesn't seem to be a lot of extra cable to work with at the termination on the 12v cable at the bus bar. Look forward to seeing pics of a crimping tool being used on it.

I would be comfortable with a decent lug (compatible with whatever material the conductor is) crimped onto clean cable with heat shrink, not with a doobie lug bolted to the original lug with a hole drilled in it. OK to get you home on a road trip or until a new cable comes in I guess, though.

Cheers.

 

[Mach 1]

Alright Skinny give me more info, fuse box just pulls out? Up? Left? Right? Forward? Latch?

I can tear mine apart to see whats up..i will take lots of pics to 'show and tell'.

Is there a procedure to calibrate, reset, adjust, relearn the 12v system? I read somewhere other members were doing some kind of 12v reestablish. From the dash?

Thx for info.

I will check owners manual as well.

 

[Mach 1]

Dang, that is a new fangled fuse box, disconnect main wire connectors, turn it upside down, and access fuse.
Holy cow its amazing what you can learn when you read.

 

[Mach 1]

Reset battery sensor, ok i got everything to dig in and see whats up.

College football opening day, i am going to watch mega games today.

Thx Skinny, milous..will stay in touch.

 

[Miskomd]

It’s the connector closer to the windshield. Mine died. I disassembled and checked the front one and back one closer to windshield. Front one is connected fine. Back one completely came loose after cutting back the wrap. Carefully crimped on a copper lug from oreilly. Hand tool barely fit in there with some experimentation. Put some shrink wrap on it. So far so good for 3 weeks now. Feel free to ask questions, but I didn’t take pics and I don’t want to remove fuse box again.

 

[skinnyboy]

Reset battery sensor, ok i got everything to dig in and see whats up.

College football opening day, i am going to watch mega games today.

Thx Skinny, milous..will stay in touch.

IIRC the battery sensor only needed to be reset if the battery was replaced, didn't do it when I had the box out and seems fine. Also didn't disconnect the wiring from the box, there was lots of flex in the cables to tip it out of the way. Disconnecting them seemed unnecessary, and generally the fewer electrical connections I disturb the better off I am .

Cheers.

 

[skinnyboy]

It’s the connector closer to the windshield. Mine died. I disassembled and checked the front one and back one closer to windshield. Front one is connected fine. Back one completely came loose after cutting back the wrap. Carefully crimped on a copped lug from oreilly. Hand tool barely fit in there with some experimentation. Put some shrink wrap on it. So far so good for 3 weeks now. Feel free to ask questions, but I didn’t take pics and I don’t want to remove fuse box again.

That's great information Miskomd, thanks. Is the cable copper or aluminum? I assume there's not enough extra cable to cut off the soldering and get clean conductor for the crimp.

Cheers.

 

[uga]

It’s the connector closer to the windshield. Mine died. I disassembled and checked the front one and back one closer to windshield. Front one is connected fine. Back one completely came loose after cutting back the wrap. Carefully crimped on a copped lug from oreilly. Hand tool barely fit in there with some experimentation. Put some shrink wrap on it. So far so good for 3 weeks now. Feel free to ask questions, but I didn’t take pics and I don’t want to remove fuse box again.

Sounds like there are multiple locations where the connection can fail further adding to confusion. Great job locating and letting everyone know.

Not sure its a job for amateurs so be careful folks!

 

[Miskomd]

That's great information Miskomd, thanks. Is the cable copper or aluminum? I assume there's not enough extra cable to cut off the soldering and get clean conductor for the crimp.

Cheers.

The cable is aluminum. Not any extra length to do anything with. I cleaned off the terrible solder job with a rotary tool and rounded out the wire as best as possible before crimping on a new connector filled with conductive anti oxidant paste. Hoping it holds long term and doesn’t corrode…or ford issues a recall and replaces the harness altogether ideally.

 

[uga]

Miskomd
Please check this pic and give us an idea where the connection is located if possible.

I believe this pic was posted by
93nighthawk

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