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Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff)

rallyshark

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While dialing in my upgraded stereo setup, I was having a heck of a time getting the bass to sound right to me. Having had aftermarket stereos with DSP in all my recent vehicles, I know how the bass should sound on a lot of my music. My sub is a Hertz MPS 250 S2 mounted in the storage area under the rear in a quality enclosure with the proper air space for the sub. That sub should have no issues handling it's duties, but I had to do some serious tweaking of the sub channel EQs to get the bass sounding more normal.

I, like many others, overlooked something obvious. Sub placement! Normally, I consider that a lot with a build, but given my options with the Maverick, I just put it in the most obvious space. Well, that storage area under the rear seat behind the driver is not conducive to low bass response from the driver's listening position! The bass would be much better(for the driver) with an Ecoboost with the sub mounted on the passenger's side under rear seat. With my sub's mounting position, I'm not really hearing the benefit of cabin gain that you usually get with low bass in a car. The sub will usually have better low end extension when mounted near the edges of the interior space opposite of the listening position, but with the hybrid under the rear seat that isn't the case. The direction the sub is firing also plays a part in this. This is why guys are getting pretty good response with their Kicker Hideaways on the back wall.

Long story short, I had to significantly boost the curve from 20hz ramping it down sharply from 31hz and actually having negative boost at 63 hz. I have attached a picture of my EQ setting for the sub for reference. You'll also notice in the pic how much I started cutting things in the upper bass regions. the upper bass is really accentuated with the sub placement. It doesn't help that the Maverick is rattle prone either. My upgraded door speakers handle down to 80 hz with no issues at all. This is not an EQ curve I'm proud of, because I don't like boosting things that much. I boosted at 50hz while cutting sharply at 63 to keep that solid kick and make it sound more "normal" with kick drums. It is what it is though. The sound is MUCH better from the sub. My response is pretty solid down to about 25 hz from the driver's seat now(passenger seat response is closer to 20hz). Before tweaking things like I did, the response was falling down just under 40-45hz. It was there, but weak. For kicks, I tested response with my mic in the passenger seat and the passenger side in the rear. It's neat how can see the low end ramp up in those positions vs the driver's seat.

If any of you guys that installed a sub in the driver's side storage under the rear seat have been thinking the bass just doesn't sound like you expected... Well, now you have a good idea why. If you're running a setup with DSP, you should be able to tune around it for the most part. If you don't have DSP, you may want to get it, unless you're cool with your bass sounding weird. I hope that helps some folks!

Ford Maverick Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff) subeq
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Old Fart

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You lost me right after subwoofer, heck I haven't even found the wires to the rear speakers which are about useless. My local sound shop quoted $500 to upgrade to better speakers, warranted. Unfortunately the social security isn't covering my bills as as it is, so better sounds will not be in the cards anytime soon, besides the hearing aids are tinny too.
 

colinl

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I'm mystified by your graphic. Is that just the sub? Do you have a 20hz-20khz sweep with all speakers active?

I installed an Alpine R series 8" in a sealed enclosure under the driver's side rear bench, and I've sat in all 4 seats while playing music, although certainly the driver's seat by far the most. I cannot tell any difference in sub performance in either front seat. there is a huge difference between sitting on top of the sub and not, but that's why it is behind me - there is less legroom, so that's always the 4th of 4 seats filled, and if only 3 are riding, I tell that person to sit on the passenger side.

I might have enough speaker wire to move my sub to test, but honestly my gut reaction is disbelief. I have a dsp in my Kicker 500.1 sub amp, but it has no tuning ability except for a crossover knob. It performs extremely well, though. Everyone that has ever listened to it who has some carfi experience is shocked it's a single sealed 8.
 
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rallyshark

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I'm mystified by your graphic. Is that just the sub? Do you have a 20hz-20khz sweep with all speakers active?

I installed an Alpine R series 8" in a sealed enclosure under the driver's side rear bench, and I've sat in all 4 seats while playing music, although certainly the driver's seat by far the most. I cannot tell any difference in sub performance in either front seat. there is a huge difference between sitting on top of the sub and not, but that's why it is behind me - there is less legroom, so that's always the 4th of 4 seats filled, and if only 3 are riding, I tell that person to sit on the passenger side.

I might have enough speaker wire to move my sub to test, but honestly my gut reaction is disbelief. I have a dsp in my Kicker 500.1 sub amp, but it has no tuning ability except for a crossover knob. It performs extremely well, though. Everyone that has ever listened to it who has some carfi experience is shocked it's a single sealed 8.
That graphic is just showing my EQ settings for the sub channel, nothing more. If you can't tell a difference, it may come down to the music you're listening to. Most music doesn't have much content below 40-50 hz. Your Kicker Key Amp likely did some adjusting of the signal as well. I don't have a sweep picture handy, since I was only using thee mic/ spectrum analyzer to tune and didn't do any screen grabs.

I did move the Dayton mic around in the truck while playing pink noise, and there is a definite difference in the response below 45hz. Sub location and orientation can absolutely affect the sound in different areas. It's like subwoofer placement in a house. Too close to the wall, and it can be boomie. Too far from the wall and it can lose some low end. Of course, I am over simplifying it a little.

I'm not suggesting you start moving your sub around to test, but if you want to... Put it on the passenger's side close to the corner/ rear wall, and play something you know to have really low bass content. The important thing is you're happy with it as is though :) I was not happy, and I'm also working with non-flattened signal coming from the head unit. Your Key dsp flattens the signal first, so you won't see the crazy curves from the head unit on your sweep measurements like I'm seeing. I do have a picture of the dsp calibration for the speakers, but that signal is generated by the dsp and not getting the head unit's "contamination ". Basically, the auto calibration still had to be calibrated manually to adjust for the factory equalization. You can see the dip art 40hz, and the the free fall at 35 hz. I do listen to a lot of stuff with low bass, so i immediately noticed it. I hope that helps.

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rallyshark

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I've been thinking about this some more. I still stand by my sub placement opinion/analysis. However, I think there may be something else going on here too. I'm wondering if the frequency ability of the head unit may also being playing a part in the very low bass fall off. I mean as in the head unit's actual frequency response, and not the factory EQ curve. I'm going to try and run a hi-res BT pink noise test and take the head unit completely out of the loop. My DSP has high res streaming ability, but I don't use it because I need the head unit involved for the phone usage. I will report back. Also, don't read into that autocalibration pic above. That was very early in the process with a different amp and a few other variables that aren't present now. To be continued...
 

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Interesting. Is your enclosure mounted behind the rear bench backrest, like a powered sub typically would be? Mine is in the driver's side storage tub and I could pull it out and install it in the passenger side for testing, but I'm honestly just not that curious because I won't leave it there.

What are you using for signal input? My system has the stock B&O amp and I connected the Key 500.1 to the factory sub output with a speaker level converter. I think from prior discussion your truck is an XLT so you have aftermarket everything.?
 
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rallyshark

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Just a little more info on this. I did take the head unit out of the loop and do some quick testing from the dsp forward. It does appear the factory head unit is limited below 25hz. I get almost nothing with a 20hz tone through head unit playing straight from a usb drive. There is definitely a difference when I switch to hi-res streaming straight to the dsp(much improved).

I don't know if it's the actual frequency response the head unit, or if there's a subsonic filter going on. Either way, the factory head unit is a handicap for those of us that listen to things with really low bass.
 
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rallyshark

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Interesting. Is your enclosure mounted behind the rear bench backrest, like a powered sub typically would be? Mine is in the driver's side storage tub and I could pull it out and install it in the passenger side for testing, but I'm honestly just not that curious because I won't leave it there.

What are you using for signal input? My system has the stock B&O amp and I connected the Key 500.1 to the factory sub output with a speaker level converter. I think from prior discussion your truck is an XLT so you have aftermarket everything.?
Ha, you replied as I was updating! I'm running a sound decisions enclosure under the bench seat. You're using signal from a B&O system, and I'm working with the base system. That could be part of our differences too. I think that combined with the other contributing factors pretty much sums up my problems.

It's almost like there's a factory software applied 12db subsonic filter around 30-35hz on the base stereo that I have. I find it unlikely that the actual head unit hardware would have that limitation. I've managed to work around it at this point, but what a PITA it has been getting this where I want. I've never had this much trouble in the 30 years I've been playing with car audio.
 

colinl

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Ha, you replied as I was updating! I'm running a sound decisions enclosure under the bench seat. You're using signal from a B&O system, and I'm working with the base system. That could be part of our differences too. I think that combined with the other contributing factors pretty much sums up my problems.

It's almost like there's a factory software applied 12db subsonic filter around 30-35hz on the base stereo that I have. I find it unlikely that the actual head unit hardware would have that limitation. I've managed to work around it at this point, but what a PITA it has been getting this where I want. I've never had this much trouble in the 30 years I've been playing with car audio.
Before I built my own sub enclosure and installed an amp, I went to several carfi shops to get quotes and understand more about the system.

2 of the 3 shops specifically mentioned a filter at 35hz and I assumed it was on my factory B&O 6x9 'sub' because I'm sure they had seen many F150, Explorer etc with B&O and knew it was there. And this didn't seem unreasonable to me, because a 6x9 is not going to play below 35hz very well, and will die trying.

But it could be done at ACIM and applied to all channels? I really don't know but if that's what you're seeing, I would not argue against it.
 
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rallyshark

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Before I built my own sub enclosure and installed an amp, I went to several carfi shops to get quotes and understand more about the system.

2 of the 3 shops specifically mentioned a filter at 35hz and I assumed it was on my factory B&O 6x9 'sub' because I'm sure they had seen many F150, Explorer etc with B&O and knew it was there. And this didn't seem unreasonable to me, because a 6x9 is not going to play below 35hz very well, and will die trying.

But it could be done at ACIM and applied to all channels? I really don't know but if that's what you're seeing, I would not argue against it.
Oh really? That makes me feel a little less crazy then, lol. I know there was one guy that said he could flatten the factory signal with forscan, but I don't know if that was full spectrum or just above 35 hz. I had not heard about the 35 hz cutoff, until you mentioned it. It does make perfect sense with what I've been seeing though.
 

colinl

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Oh really? That makes me feel a little less crazy then, lol. I know there was one guy that said he could flatten the factory signal with forscan, but I don't know if that was full spectrum or just above 35 hz. I had not heard about the 35 hz cutoff, until you mentioned it. It does make perfect sense with what I've been seeing though.
there are definitely settings in forscan that set the crossovers appropriately for the size of the speakers - tweeter only, speaker, tweeter and speaker, or no speaker.

the eq settings on various ford models can vary. for the maverick with ford connected audio I believe it's only enabled or disabled even though this reference sheet shows other options:


edit: whoa, the forum embedded it. that wasn't really what I meant to happen, here's a regular link:
Maverick Forscan Reference Sheet

check the values under 727-07-02

since you have a dsp, amp, replacement speakers including sub, I really don't see how there could be any drawback to disabling the EQ completely. be sure you know the default value and save your config before starting any changes. you can get the as-built info and restore it, but it's a lot faster/easier if you just save before tweaking anything for the first time.
 
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rallyshark

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I really need to look into Forscan more. I've never used, because there wasn't anything that bugged me enough to dig into it. That is, until now. I don't like boosting EQ settings on dsp to near maximum and the same goes for gain levels on amps, so this may finally make it worth it to me. Man, I miss the good old days of being able to simply put a new head unit in cars... Thanks for all the info Colin!
 
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rallyshark

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I guess I'm going to open this can of worms with Forscan. I just ordered the cable from Amazon, lol. I'm going to be doing some research in the next few days to see if I can nail down the right changes. A quick search on the net showed me an overwhelming amount of info, so I'll need to decipher all of that down to dummy level for myself😅

P.S.
Also screw Ford for not giving us a flat eq curve and making this crap way more trouble than it should be :(
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