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Oil light and engine light came on..

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GATSB33

GATSB33

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Did there seem to be any problems during the break in period, oil levels good on fill ups during that time?

BREAKING-IN

Your vehicle requires a break-in period. For the first 1,000 mi (1,600 km), avoid driving at high speeds, heavy braking, aggressive shifting or using your vehicle to tow. During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics.
Nothing noticeable.. normal routine until lately
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??????? No visible oil leaks or puddles in the skid plate or shield when you take it down? Any oil residue inside your tailpipe? The only thing that I have found on these engines related to leaks are porous oil filter housing surfaces. On my Tremor I noticed it on my first oil change and on another Maverick that I checked. The filters might be under tighten at the factory from what I have found. Make sure when you do your next oil change and after adding you 5 QTS that the reading on the stick is correctly calibrated.
Ford Maverick Oil light and engine light came on.. Maverick oil fiter housing
 
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Rwills

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If you can, I'd get a brand new motorcraft filter (fl910s) and 6 qt of valvoline full synthetic, 5w30.
Do the change yourself (not sure of your abilities), so that you can 100% verify that the right amount of oil is in the vehicle. Then, diagnose from there.

I had an issue like this on a 2016 Hyundai Accent. Mechanic never replaced the crush washer on the drain plug, so it threw oill lights all the time and I had to constantly add oil.

FWIW, these drain plugs have a rubber gasket built in. It's entirely possible that it (or the oil filter) were not tightened properly from the factory.
I changed my oil at 1000 miles for first oil change. At that mileage the oil filter was as heavy as a brick. It should not of been that heavy.you definitely need to change your oil. I would recommend full synthetic
 

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I have just hit the 5k mark on my 24 Lariat eco..I commute to work about 3 hours each way, but only once a week…while on my commute my low oil pressure light came on, truck went into limp mode and after turning it off, then on went away.. get home (5 miles away) and light pops back on, along with check engine, so I check oil, low and then drive it to dealer and have them check oil, less than a quart of oil (this is at 3.5k miles)..a few days at the dealer, no issue found, refilled and ready to go..ff >>>> to this past Sunday (4 days ago) commuting to work, passing a semi going uphill.. oil pressure light pops on, and into limp mode..I’m out in the sticks but pull over at next available gas station to check oil.. bone dry, (4,800 miles)..I am now at a gas station buying a $9 quart of oil so that I can get to work.. takes the whole quart light goes off..I work next 3 days, then commute home, no issues but I called dealer and told them I was bringing it back in..I have a brand new truck that I have to babysit and oil every 1,500 miles?? Brought to dealer, they check oil and have no loaners so can’t leave truck.. the fact that they expect me to leave my truck without a replacement simply blows me away.. waiting for rental car so that I can take truck back in.. has anyone had oil issues (burning or leaks)? So frustrated right now, I’ve already dropped a few thousand $$ in mods into this truck and I’m questioning keeping it going forward.. thanks for reading
Oil leaks in driveway under truck? Any blue smoke while driving?
 

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If you can, I'd get a brand new motorcraft filter (fl910s) and 6 qt of valvoline full synthetic, 5w30.
Do the change yourself (not sure of your abilities), so that you can 100% verify that the right amount of oil is in the vehicle. Then, diagnose from there.

I had an issue like this on a 2016 Hyundai Accent. Mechanic never replaced the crush washer on the drain plug, so it threw oill lights all the time and I had to constantly add oil.

FWIW, these drain plugs have a rubber gasket built in. It's entirely possible that it (or the oil filter) were not tightened properly from the factory.
He should see puddles of oil under his truck then....
 

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Something is off about this post. With that much oil "missing" it has to be all over under the truck, especially if the OP is not seeing smoke out of the rear pipe.
 

sprcoop

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Two separate episodes.. if you actually read, like so many others before you that didn’t get mixed signals.. the first episode (3,500 miles) I took it to the dealer and they said there was less than a quart in there before refilling it..2nd completely separate incident happened at 4,800 miles.. light came on again, I bought it quart and it took the whole quart is what I wrote, then the oil light went off.. where are your signals getting mixed?
Lighten up Francis. I can read... but I'm not psychic.

"drive it to dealer and have them check oil, less than a quart of oil (this is at 3.5k miles)"

From this statement I could not determine whether there was less than a quart in it or it took less than a quart to fill it.

Thank you for clarifying.
 

HeyBales

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Something is off about this post. With that much oil "missing" it has to be all over under the truck, especially if the OP is not seeing smoke out of the rear pipe.
Or the EGR & PCV systems are working incredibly well and the engine internals are just caked with deposits.
Ya, they should be dying too
 

Gonefishin

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Recommend you take an oil sample now or during the next oil change. Send the sample to Blackstone along with a note explaining what’s going on. It’ll be nice to have the test results available when discussing a remedy with the dealer. Or lawyers. Or forum members.
 

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Recommend you take an oil sample now or during the next oil change. Send the sample to Blackstone along with a note explaining what’s going on. It’ll be nice to have the test results available when discussing a remedy with the dealer. Or lawyers. Or forum members.
Blackstone will take months to get back
 
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OP has a FX4 so maybe the oil leak is being caught by the skid plate, and then as its driven its being pushed off. Might explain why there is no stains in the driveway?

My F150 has two leaks caused by Jiffy Lube (I know, Jiffy Lube is awful, but its a company truck so I go to there since its pre approved service and free car washes) over tightening the oil plug. There was an insulating barrier that I referred to as my oil diaper. This carpet like barrier was able to soak up the oil for the most part and I never noticed a stain in my driveway. I only noticed the leak when towing my trailer. It got covered in oil.
 
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Oil leaks in driveway under truck? Any blue smoke while driving?
Neither.. trucks at the dealership for round two.. hopefully, there’s a happy ending
 
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GATSB33

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I have just hit the 5k mark on my 24 Lariat eco..I commute to work about 3 hours each way, but only once a week…while on my commute my low oil pressure light came on, truck went into limp mode and after turning it off, then on went away.. get home (5 miles away) and light pops back on, along with check engine, so I check oil, low and then drive it to dealer and have them check oil, less than a quart of oil (this is at 3.5k miles)..a few days at the dealer, no issue found, refilled and ready to go..ff >>>> to this past Sunday (4 days ago) commuting to work, passing a semi going uphill.. oil pressure light pops on, and into limp mode..I’m out in the sticks but pull over at next available gas station to check oil.. bone dry, (4,800 miles)..I am now at a gas station buying a $9 quart of oil so that I can get to work.. takes the whole quart light goes off..I work next 3 days, then commute home, no issues but I called dealer and told them I was bringing it back in..I have a brand new truck that I have to babysit and oil every 1,500 miles?? Brought to dealer, they check oil and have no loaners so can’t leave truck.. the fact that they expect me to leave my truck without a replacement simply blows me away.. waiting for rental car so that I can take truck back in.. has anyone had oil issues (burning or leaks)? So frustrated right now, I’ve already dropped a few thousand $$ in mods into this truck and I’m questioning keeping it going forward.. thanks for reading
UPDATE: brought to dealership 9/27 and received phone call from service.. they told me the turbo was the cause of the oil disappearance, which is covered by warranty but there is a hose that needs to be replaced, which is one time use and was pulled when my exhaust system was installed, so I am responsible for that hose ($20).. so, case closed.
Going forward, I have a Cobb tuning device that I won’t install now bc if there are further engine problems, I will be responsible for repairs
 

grumpyunk

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I would want to get a capture of the oil remaining in the crankcase, and send it for analysis. I would be looking for metallics which might indicate damage to bearings, etc.
I would also want to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and get readings of current pressure achieved to eliminate concerns that the bearings have been damaged and now will not let the system develop proper pressure when the engine & oil are good and hot.
All the above if the Ford people indicate 'there is no damage beyond a leaking hose'...
Cuz I do not believe that to be the case. Run an engine until the LIGHT comes on at about 5psi. That does NOT do good things to plain bearings as it will likely cause the bearing to get hot due to lagging oil flow. The oil flow carries away heat from the bearing, and low pressure by the nature of the system indicates low flow through the bearings, or looseness in the bearings once the crankcase has adequate lubricant to give good continous flow.
I have no idea what the specified pressure should be developed at idle with hot engine and oil at full operating temperature. There are 'rules of thumb' such as 10 psi per each 1k of rpms. For sure idle rpm oil pressure should be above 5 psi, and I would want to see closer to 20. Damaged or worn bearings will find it harder to keep the psi up when hot and at idle. Can lead to flickering oil pressure light down the road when a little more clearance develops.
Worth checking now, while under warranty, rather than down the road when no longer covered or at the end... and no one remembers the story. Check and record readings. Get documentation of proper pressure at given rpm/temp.
tom
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