Massive Strut Tower Brace Installed on Lobo

[r0tax]

If you increase the stiffness of the rear sway bar, you will reduce understeer and increase oversteer. Increase the stiffness of the front bar will increase understeer and decrease oversteer.
Add stiffness to the opposite end that needs more grip.

Ty, sounds like Rear sway bar is the answer for me.
Looking at the Steeda with adjust-ability.

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[Maverick123]

If you increase the stiffness of the rear sway bar, you will reduce understeer and increase oversteer. Increase the stiffness of the front bar will increase understeer and decrease oversteer.
Add stiffness to the opposite end that needs more grip.

Those front strut braces don't really do anything, handling-wise. They're for looks

 

[Tbone289]

Ty, sounds like Rear sway bar is the answer for me.
Looking at the Steeda with adjust-ability.

Something to keep in mind... The Steeda sway bars are tubular, and the Good-Win racing adjustable sway bars are solid.

 

[Maverick123]

Something to keep in mind... The Steeda sway bars are tubular, and the Good-Win racing adjustable sway bars are solid.

(At comparable stiffness, the hollow bar will be lighter)

 

[Tbone289]

(At comparable stiffness, the hollow bar will be lighter)

...and, speaking from experience, also more prone to fail due to corrosion. I bought a tubular Steeda bar in 2012 that corroded in two years due to a very poor powder coat finish. Steeda would not cover replacement, even though they had re-designed the swaybar to a solid metal design because some customers' swaybars had broken. 13 years later, I still own this car and it is corrosion-free, as is the solid sway bar I replaced it with.

So, IMO, the long-term safety of a solid bar is a more important factor than the relatively small amount of weight savings from a tubular one.

 

[tj@steeda]

...and, speaking from experience, also more prone to fail due to corrosion. I bought a tubular Steeda bar in 2012 that corroded in two years due to a very poor powder coat finish. Steeda would not cover replacement, even though they had re-designed the swaybar to a solid metal design because some customers' swaybars had broken. 13 years later, I still own this car and it is corrosion-free, as is the solid sway bar I replaced it with.

So, IMO, the long-term safety of a solid bar is a more important factor than the relatively small amount of weight savings from a tubular one.

We have come a long way since then & here is a little more about our Powder Coating Capabilities - if anyone is the market for a Steeda Swaybar or have any questions, feel free to email me at [email protected]!

With our newest changes to our powder coating, we have landed an even higher rating for quality and durability than ever before. Our Engineering & Manufacturing Teams are always looking for ways to improve. When we sent out some of our powder coated parts to get salt spray tested to ensure long-term durability and reliability, we received higher results than we had expected. They came back with a 9 out of 10 rating after 750 hours of direct salt spray testing, landing higher than the industry standard of 6 out of 10. With this high rating, we are proud to announce that Steeda's powder coating is the strongest it has ever been!

https://www.steeda.com/steedas-stro...LeQ_Mp8-03xjd6q8LeeHOCqNI5w4cX3YbDsfguQES2OsD

 

[basicUse]

Just got it on so not much feedback yet. I'm putting a couple hundred miles on it next week. I'll report back then.

The install was super easy. Maybe took 10 minutes. Purchased through Panda Motorsports. I think it looks good!

now you just needs cup 2's and maxx chamber

 

[stangg17]

now you just needs cup 2's and maxx chamber

Don't tempt me. I'm reliving my GTI days.

 

[Buggy Man]

Ty, sounds like Rear sway bar is the answer for me.
Looking at the Steeda with adjust-ability.

Ty, sounds like Rear sway bar is the answer for me.
Looking at the Steeda with adjust-ability.

I like the GOOD WIN RACING rear bar. It is a solid bar not tubular like others.

 

[basicUse]

I like the GOOD WIN RACING rear bar. It is a solid bar not tubular like others.

I am VERY tempted too, shared with C2 escape, Bronco Sport.
For $280 not bad, 25.4mm / 1 inch thick solid and adjustable for low TW tires.

 

[Chops]

Just got it on so not much feedback yet. I'm putting a couple hundred miles on it next week. I'll report back then.

The install was super easy. Maybe took 10 minutes. Purchased through Panda Motorsports. I think it looks good!

Installed mine yesterday & took a spin up the local canyon road. Maverick felt like it was on rails

Shame the metal flake in the blue will never see the light of day!

 

[stangg17]

Installed mine yesterday & took a spin up the local canyon road. Maverick felt like it was on rails

Shame the metal flake in the blue will never see the light of day!

Looks good

 

[Chops]

Looks good

I much prefer the white on black with yours!

 

[Big Swede]

Those front strut braces don't really do anything, handling-wise. They're for looks

It depends on the vehicle. In years past the strut towers used to be between the firewall and wheel well and would flex like crazy so a front strut bar provided a noticeable difference.

With most modern cars the manufacturers have tucked the strut towers right against the firewall and side of the truck providing excellent triangulation from the factory. I agree with you on the Maverick the rear bar would most likely provide a bigger difference.

 

[Chops]

Those front strut braces don't really do anything, handling-wise. They're for looks

I feel less understeer. Granted, I don’t have enough miles (before & after) to completely rule out a placebo effect.

My placebo sense also indicates a CAD/CAM simulation of flex on the Maverick’s Unibody before & after strut brace would show less flex.

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