I put a subwoofer in a lawn tire and it fit

[Lane]

I appreciate you guys trying to save me from disappointment but I just don't understand why we'd throw this idea to the wind if there are 10" subwoofers in even smaller enclosures with amps built in

I expect that those woofers that you see in small enclosures are specifically designed for those small enclosures, compared to your Dual woofer which is an unknown until you get its T/S numbers.

Unfortunately I can't find a passive rad calculator.

I found this calculator. Looks like the enclosure size is similar to if it were ported (so, larger than sealed), and they also suggest a radiator that's at least as large as the woofer.

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[billbillw]

Every woofer is designed for a purpose. Some are for small sealed boxes, some are for infinite baffle, some work in ported (or with a passive radiator). Passive radiators are generally for home speakers, not car audio and they are usually designed with advanced audio/mechanical engineering and specifically matched cabinet/woofer/radiators. If anything is off, they sound terrible.

Car audio either uses a small, sealed box with a woofer that matches, an infinite baffle (work great for old cars with trunks and a rear deck), or a larger ported box. The ported boxes are usally best for trunks, hatchbacks or the back of SUVs. Places where there is extra space to waste. The Maverick is very tight in the interior, so its really small sealed box or nothing.

 

[MankDeems]

Every woofer is designed for a purpose. . The Maverick is very tight in the interior, so its really small sealed box or nothing.

The pioneer shallow 10 I linked is specifically for "Small Enclosure Use (0.35 ~ 0.7 cu. ft.)" Which yes with the volume of the subwoofer I'm near my spec. I was hoping I could "synthetically increase" the volume using a PR. While keeping it sealed which this subwoofer is designed for small enclosures

I expect that those woofers that you see in small enclosures are specifically designed for those small enclosures, compared to your Dual woofer which is an unknown until you get its T/S numbers.



I found this calculator. Looks like the enclosure size is similar to if it were ported (so, larger than sealed), and they also suggest a radiator that's at least as large as the woofer.

This might be my forever calculator I looked at 7 different links before giving up Tysm. Might order both and experiment when they show up. I haven't mentioned I've always had small boxes and have found an appreciation for punchy bass over wubs but I understand I'm riding the line statistically with this whole project

Thank all of you, sorry if I'm pissy about this it's been a project but I'm adamant if it doesn't work out it'll end up in something much better!

 

[Lane]

I did a Google image search and that woofer looks like it was used in an amplified enclosure they sold with model # ALB10. I don't see any references to any other woofers that look identical. Here's a YouTube video where someone takes it apart and does some measurements, and he provides the T/S parameters for it.

Unknown if it's the same woofer, but this info is probably better than nothing.

 

[MankDeems]

I did a Google image search and that woofer looks like it was used in an amplified enclosure they sold with model # ALB10. I don't see any references to any other woofers that look identical. Here's a YouTube video where someone takes it apart and does some measurements, and he provides the T/S parameters for it.

Unknown if it's the same woofer, but this info is probably better than nothing.

Yeah I still have that box! I jigsawed it out 2" and put a kicker comp 12 in it when I burned the amp out I paired it with a JVC300rms, still lives in my 99 ranger

I've always just tuned things to punchy without clipping by ear Ive never swam in this cesspool of numbers trying to achieve ultimate bass but I guess if this is what it takes

I've attached the T/S for the pioneer 10" I'd like to use. The only useful information I can understand here is that .6cuft is recommended, I have room for a 1" MDF ring to make the woofer occupy .15 cu ft meaning I have .25 cuft of effective volume.

Now how do I add the passive rad to the equation? Buy one create it and test it? If I understand this right I won't know my woofers TS without the volume of my particular enclosure?

This feels really over my head thanks to everyone again

 

[billbillw]

Adding a passive rad doesn't synthetically increase the perceived volume of a sealed box. It creates a tuned box system. Even if it doesn't have any air moving through a port, the passive rad acts like a port by resonating within in a certain frequency range. It is more to boost the output, than to act like a bigger box. Overall, it is not recommended for a DIY car audo approach, as I mentioned previously this is the realm for advanced calculations by audio design engineers.

If you want to do this right (meaning good sounding bass, not "ultimate bass"), go spend some time over at https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forums/

I suggest reading there and not posting, since they will rip you alive with this kind of stuff.

 

[colinl]

Pretty cool and will last forever. Why not.

Well, the point of a subwoofer is to reproduce bass notes accurately and loudly.

I am sure this makes noise. I am not very confident that it can accurately reproduce music in the 20hz to 100hz range.

 

[Silver23]

Just because something fits into another thing doesn't always mean you should put it there.

 

[Maverickman74]

Well, the point of a subwoofer is to reproduce bass notes accurately and loudly.

I am sure this makes noise. I am not very confident that it can accurately reproduce music in the 20hz to 100hz range.

I listen to metal and string music so I know nothing of bass lol.

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