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Rivers90

Rivers90

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So the Tremor only has the rear "skid plate" unlike the FX4 that has a two piece? Because if it's a two piece, be careful only removing the back portion of that underbody carriage. If it's like the FX4, it's actually designed to have both pieces removed together. Don't just uninstall the rear one unless you want to replace a bunch of those cheap "not quite bolt" thread things they go into.
Yes the Tremor has a one piece skid plate, not 2 piece like the fx4. At the front of the skid plate it slopes up sharply to the bumper to give the truck a better approach angle. It would have been great if that part was steel and removable. Hoping for an after market upgrade. Something like that is available for Subaru's
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BoboysTruck

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One more photo showing the foil taped to the bumper.
foil.jpg

More oil will come from the oil filter than you think and the bumper has lots of places for it to get stuck. This made cleanup easier.
Non-Tremor Mavericks don't need this, their bumper is different the oil filter does not drip on the bumper edge.

Try this for a no mess oil filter removal hack.

Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick Screenshot_20230724_175029_Chrom
 

Montana

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Try this for a no mess oil filter removal hack.

Screenshot_20230724_175029_Chrome.webp
Oh man I always forget about this. This reminded me to grab a cup and put it in the garage with my oil change stuff. Thank you!

Yes the Tremor has a one piece skid plate, not 2 piece like the fx4. At the front of the skid plate it slopes up sharply to the bumper to give the truck a better approach angle. It would have been great if that part was steel and removable. Hoping for an after market upgrade. Something like that is available for Subaru's
One of the main reasons I enjoyed my Tacoma was the aftermarket support. They had this plastic filter housing with just the paper filter inside being what you changed, but there was a drainage spot in the stock TRD skid plate for everything. Same with the Crosstrek I had. Decent amount of aftermarket parts and I'm pretty sure there was 3rd party skids for it. Hopefully someone will come up with one because I hate the stock FX4 one. I'd love to just replace the whole bumper with a Tremor one just for that small amount I'd gain from it up front and the fact that I could ditch this two part skid plate.
 

Gpp

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I dont know what kind of bolts or push lock pins hold all the different skid plates on use but i would suggest having some extra ones.dropped bolts at my house seem
To grow legs and run!
 

JamesD

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Does anyone know what size washer to use on the oil drain plug for the 2.0 Ecoboost?
 

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Rivers90

Rivers90

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I dont know what kind of bolts or push lock pins hold all the different skid plates on use but i would suggest having some extra ones.dropped bolts at my house seem
To grow legs and run!
The push locks can brake too if your not careful, it is good to have some spare. I got from amazon a giant bag of a bunch of types of the plastic pins. The bag has ones for lots of types of cars, I got it for a SUV we had and replaced with the Maverick, but I have most of the push locks I need for any of our cars.

Push lock amazon

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HH76458/

I should get a spare bolt pack too like your suggesting. There are a lot of options, IDK what one would be the best.
 

710-oil-614

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Changed my oil yesterday with 498.5 miles on the odometer. Generally I do this at 1k miles for new vehicles but I decided to it now because I want to drive it a little harder than I have been and I have a potential trip to NC this week and yesterday was my window to do it.

As @Rivers90 pointed out - everything was straight forward. The 13mm bolts holding the skid plate on were difficult to get out and I wondered if they weren't cross threaded from the factory but they all went back in just fine.

I found the drain plug was probably not torqued to 20 ft/lbs and the oil filter was tight as can be.

Once loosened - I used a solo cup to remove the filter and the small drizzle after it did not hit the front plastic fascia.

I used Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic because Walmart did not have any 5w30 in Royal Purple and I wasn't going to pay the Autozone upcharge on that - future oil changes will be Royal Purple.

Oil seemed super clean and not alien blood until the filter - it did have greenish tint to it a little when tipped over.

The EB is not a refined engine and it simple doesn't sound great really ever but the first tank of dealer filled 87 and the factory Motorcraft fuel I only got 22.6 mpg and it felt a little underwhelming.

Filled with Shell (a top tier fuel) 93 octane and now with the advanced full synthetic and the EB definitely seems to like it more. I do plan a high flow air filter and possibly the @COBB Tuning access port 93 tune but worried heat soak would largely render the tune useless.
 
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Rivers90

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I did my second oil change. The filter still made a bit of a mess.

Next up would be a ptu oil change.
There are some photos on the bronco sport form from a badlands that has the same water cooled PTU as a Maverick Tremor.
Looks like you take the two bolts that hold the water to oil cooler into the ptu and slide the cooler out to get the old fluid out. fill plug is very had to reach on the passenger side by thew cv axle.

https://www.broncosportforum.com/fo...-30k-mile-fluid-flush.8900/page-3#post-160601

some of their photos.
Photo of the water cooling unit slid out.

Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick tremor ptu


And a photo of the fill plug.

Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick tremor ptu fill plug


here is a photo of my trucks PTU water cooler still in.
Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick tremor ptu water cooler


It looks just like the bronco sport badlands.

The fill plug is hard to see, maybe pulling off the passenger side front tire would give you a better view. Fill plug is right next to the CV on the passenger side. Transfer case PTU fluid changes I think should be done at 30k miles or sooner with Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant.

Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick ptu fill cv
 
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Rivers90

Rivers90

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seal, oring, on oil drain plug.

So I got a multi pack of 0-rings from amazon. I still dont have the real ford part number or else I would have ordered one from Ford.

No perfect match but one worked. no leaks yet.

13 x 3 mm

Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick PXL_20230909_200536196


Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick PXL_20230909_200928171


Ford Maverick How To: Oil Change on Tremor Maverick PXL_20230909_200958837


Second oil change and the factor o-ring still looks good. so no need to really change it with every oil change. But it would be good to have a spare for when it does go bad.
 
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I'm for sure planning on putting in a Fumoto valve...
Did you end up installing a Fumoto? If so, any issues or did you need an adapter?
 

710-oil-614

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Just did my second oil change at 4,867.5 miles - the oil life percentage was 68% but I am adhering to the 5k changes. I changed the factory oil out at 498.5 miles.

Filled this time with Royal Purple 5w30 full synthetic, so I plan to do a Blackstone Oil analysis with the next change as RP is what I will be running full time unless feedback is disastrous. I also plan to stick to every 5k religiously as it is the best insurance for the EcoBoost engines.

Should have snapped a photo but my hands were a little oily - the oil was black even with 68% life remaining on the monitor and only 4,500 miles in. Confirms the every 5k change in my mind.

I find the oil change quite easy to be honest - at least compared to the 2.3 EB in a bronco.

I remove the 4 - T30 torx screws holding the fascia to the skid plate, and then use one arm to hold the skid plate up while remove the 3 - 13mm bolts on one side with an impact driver and then switch and do the other side.

Slide the skid plate back (towards the rear of the vehicle) about 3 inches and it drops free of the front fascia. Roll out from under the vehicle with it.

Using a Solo cup on the filter and I get nothing on the plastic fascia - the cup catches 90% and the remaining drizzle misses the fascia.

We'll see how the RP holds up the next 5k miles but I sure do love working on the Tremor. I did notice that I scraped the skid and cross member behind it on something. Need more ground clearance!!
 

KCRoadrash

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I used the this post to plan what I needed. https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/1st-oil-change-on-the-tremor-today.29555/ Thank you Dave

What I used for the oil change

13 and 15 mm sockets and ratchets
T30 Star Bit Socket (torx socket)
Oil filter wrench
Funnel
Motorcraft - Oil Filter (FL910S)
5w-30 synthetic motor oil
Oil drain pan
Aluminum foil
Painters tape

The height of the truck let me change the oil with out using ramps or needing a jack.

removed the Four - T30 TORX fasteners
Removed the six -13 mm bolts
The skid plate is heaver than you think it will be and awkwardly large, be ready to hold it.
The oil filter has some of the plastic under bumper under it so I taped the Aluminum foil to catch the oil that will poor out of the filter when you remove it.
I drained the oil and changed the filter. Installed new filter and new oil.
Checked the level of the oil, and checked it again after running the truck. Checked for leaks then put the skid plate back on.

Here are the photos.
oil.jpg


The oil

tools.jpg

The 13 and 15 mm and the T30

star skid.jpg

T30 TORX

bolts skid.jpg

The 6 bolts

skid.jpg

The skid, was thicker than I thought it would be. Nice

underside.jpg


Oil filter top left partly hidden under the plastic. But has plenty of room to reach it. Drain plug is on the back side of the oil pan, you can just see the edge of it.

green oil.jpg

The factory oil looks like alien blood. But you do need good light or else it just looks dark.

drain plug.jpg

Oil drain plug, use the 15mm to remove.

old oil filter.jpg

old oil filter

funnle.jpg

new oil going in

Way more photos then you need but I wanted to cover it all and help others with their trucks as much as I can.
Next person to do an oil change can make a video.

Questions regarding making oil changes easier:

I have 22 ECO and have changed the oil previously by removing the lower shield. I find it more difficult than necessary and easy to loose or strip a screw holding the shield. Has anyone tried to:

1. Use a Hose connection like this to make draining the oil easier? This is described on Amazon as
Upgraded Engine 12mm Drain Oil Changing Hose, Oil Drain Aid Tool, M12x1.5 mm, 18" Length

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6XMBF2...LFJB3247&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

2. Alternatively, has anyone found a way to install a removable "Cap" over the oil filter area and /or the drain plug so that the lower cover doesn't need to be removed to change the oil and filter?

Thanks in advance for any advice
 

Nessie

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This is great, as I had 3 different people try telling me how much different and how hard it was to change the oil on my 23 tremor. This seems almost the exact same as other oil changes I've done.
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