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Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation
OP
OP
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- #47
They’re just running off factory (and I’ll be putting these 4” in this weekend)…. depending on how I like these and how it all sounds once I have it dialed in, there’s a chance I run something along the lines the kicker key to the mids and highs (but I’m really not sure I need to, when the hideaway isn’t acting up it already sounds pretty damn good and I don’t really need it any louder than how it sounds at 23 running music from iTunes)
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Ok I’ll look into these. What’s the model of your door speakers and rear speakers?They’re just running off factory (and I’ll be putting these 4” in this weekend)…. depending on how I like these and how it all sounds once I have it dialed in, there’s a chance I run something along the lines the kicker key to the mids and highs (but I’m really not sure I need to, when the hideaway isn’t acting up it already sounds pretty damn good and I don’t really need it any louder than how it sounds at 30 running music from iTunes)
Honestly just the powerbass replacements off the factory head unit power sounds WAY better than the stock speakers (more clarity, the tweeters are silk dome so there’s a clean brightness that wasn’t there) aaaand you can turn it up without distortion like the junk stock speakers
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #49
THESE would be the component set to go with those 4” (but they’re 2 1/2 inch depth and would be a tight fit with an adaptor to push them out to the door grill)
These POWERBASS plug and play drop ins are what I have in the front (door and dash).
The 4” hertz dieci dcx I got at like 55% off HERE
if you like those 4”,THESE hertz components are over a half inch shorter in mounting depth (and are the ones that blackescars on YouTube put in his without and amp and said they sound really good (Which is subjective, but…)
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Ok thanks! That last link for the 4” speakers won’t work. I was looking at the focal RSE-165 on crutchfield for $150 any thoughts on those? Also you mounted your tweeter in the factory spot. I was debating there or flush mounting then into the top door triangle plastic piece by the mirror. I wonder what location would be better.
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OP
OP
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- #51
Link fixed
On those Focals, I think I was looking at those too and ruled them out due to mounting depth (but I think you can make 2 1/2 work, but it’ll take a custom bracket and will be pretty tight)
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Anyone know what the RMS output per channel is on the stock head unit?
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #54
The housing essentially mimics the stock housing so it zips right into the factory mounting location
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #55
Update:
I wanted to install the rear speakers today (the 4” came, 4x6s still lord knows where on the way from Australia),
but we’ve got a bomb cyclone and the garage is just too cold to pry those rear trim pieces. I can confirm either the 72-5600 or 72-5601 will work…. One is reversed polarity (not sure which until I get in there and test)…. I have both now…. On both, the lead wire post connector foe the negative is too small for anything other than a tweeter (some tweeters), so you’ll have to snip it and replace it so it’ll fit the speaker lead.
My budget upgrade turned into more of a hobby, where I’m playing with different possible configs in the Maverick that A. Are budget minded B. Doesn’t take up much usable space.
What I’m playing with is dual custom boxes that fire diagonally up from each side of the rear bin.
being budget conscious (especially for a secondary project), I went with 2 kicker compc Dvcs I got one a scratch and dent from crutchfield that was $48 and a second for $80…. that will be powered by the KICKER 400.1 monoblock that I got for $118, so essentially two 8”s and a separate amp will run me $244. This pic essentially what I’m going for with the enclosure shape (cardboard playing with shapes, etc…)…. I don’t want to yank the storage bin insert and want to be able to pull these easily if the full bin is needed (and yes that’s a fat scratch in the middle of the bin, some tools I had in there must’ve scratched it… been so careful with the plastics, didn’t think about inside the bin)… I may even keep the hideaway under or behind the seat for Those times you might yank the subs from under the rear seat for maximum storage on a road trip (thinking out loud)
I wanted to install the rear speakers today (the 4” came, 4x6s still lord knows where on the way from Australia),
but we’ve got a bomb cyclone and the garage is just too cold to pry those rear trim pieces. I can confirm either the 72-5600 or 72-5601 will work…. One is reversed polarity (not sure which until I get in there and test)…. I have both now…. On both, the lead wire post connector foe the negative is too small for anything other than a tweeter (some tweeters), so you’ll have to snip it and replace it so it’ll fit the speaker lead.
My budget upgrade turned into more of a hobby, where I’m playing with different possible configs in the Maverick that A. Are budget minded B. Doesn’t take up much usable space.
What I’m playing with is dual custom boxes that fire diagonally up from each side of the rear bin.
being budget conscious (especially for a secondary project), I went with 2 kicker compc Dvcs I got one a scratch and dent from crutchfield that was $48 and a second for $80…. that will be powered by the KICKER 400.1 monoblock that I got for $118, so essentially two 8”s and a separate amp will run me $244. This pic essentially what I’m going for with the enclosure shape (cardboard playing with shapes, etc…)…. I don’t want to yank the storage bin insert and want to be able to pull these easily if the full bin is needed (and yes that’s a fat scratch in the middle of the bin, some tools I had in there must’ve scratched it… been so careful with the plastics, didn’t think about inside the bin)… I may even keep the hideaway under or behind the seat for Those times you might yank the subs from under the rear seat for maximum storage on a road trip (thinking out loud)
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Looking forward to the finish product! Will you amp the door/rear speakers?Update:
I wanted to install the rear speakers today (the 4” came, 4x6s still lord knows where on the way from Australia),
but we’ve got a bomb cyclone and the garage is just too cold to pry those rear trim pieces. I can confirm either the 72-5600 or 72-5601 will work…. One is reversed polarity (not sure which until I get in there and test)…. I have both now…. On both, the lead wire post connector foe the negative is too small for anything other than a tweeter (some tweeters), so you’ll have to snip it and replace it so it’ll fit the speaker lead.
My budget upgrade turned into more of a hobby, where I’m playing with different possible configs in the Maverick that A. Are budget minded B. Doesn’t take up much usable space.
What I’m playing with is dual custom boxes that fire diagonally up from each side of the rear bin.
being budget conscious (especially for a secondary project), I went with 2 kicker compc Dvcs I got one a scratch and dent from crutchfield that was $48 and a second for $80…. that will be powered by the KICKER 400.1 monoblock that I got for $118, so essentially two 8”s and a separate amp will run me $244. This pic essentially what I’m going for with the enclosure shape (cardboard playing with shapes, etc…)…. I don’t want to yank the storage bin insert and want to be able to pull these easily if the full bin is needed (and yes that’s a fat scratch in the middle of the bin, some tools I had in there must’ve scratched it… been so careful with the plastics, didn’t think about inside the bin)… I may even keep the hideaway under or behind the seat for Those times you might yank the subs from under the rear seat for maximum storage on a road trip (thinking out loud)
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #57
I’m still up in the air on whether I’ll need to, but at this point I may just to “complete” the project (and to add more eq options than the factory unit because “driver” and “all seats” just seems so limited and I think I can improve the staging with even something like 50w RMS to each with some sort of budget signal processor, but we’ll see what deals fall in my lap
)Sounds good! I have a alpine mrp-m500, alpine-f300 and a sundown 10” sd2 that I took out of my current truck a year ago when I was going to trade it in but never traded it. I just recently ordered the maverick and was looking replace the speakers like I talked to you about but since I have most of the main stuff might as well use the amps and possibly the sub if I can get a box made for it or just go with a different sub.I’m still up in the air on whether I’ll need to, but at this point I may just to “complete” the project (and to add more eq options than the factory unit because “driver” and “all seats” just seems so limited and I think I can improve the staging with even something like 50w RMS to each with some sort of budget signal processor, but we’ll see what deals fall in my lap
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #59
Was a little warmer in the garage today so I decided to try to tackle the rears. Let me just confirm, even if you know how it comes off and how the clips needs to slide in and then up on the top piece, MY LORD these are a bitch to get out.
on the wiring harness for the rears (and I assume tweeters as well), the 72-5601 connected and works. The 72-5600 seems to fit, but I couldn’t get the pins to connect.
On the right with the brown insert, that’s the 5601…. You can see the pins are a little higher seated
Here’s the 5600 compared to the stock (the pins on the 5600 are tweaked from trying to connect it to the factory plug)…. You’ll also see the capacitor (or resistor?) on the factory harness adaptor which makes me pause with the common ground of the rear speakers and replacing them on the factory head unit signal without an aftermarket amp attached (last thing I want is to fry the head unit at high volumes with changing the impedance, etc)…. Anybody with more recent car audio experience than I have any thoughts on this? Not sure if I’m overthinking it (but it’s back to the land of research to make sure I’m approaching this correctly)
on the wiring harness for the rears (and I assume tweeters as well), the 72-5601 connected and works. The 72-5600 seems to fit, but I couldn’t get the pins to connect.
On the right with the brown insert, that’s the 5601…. You can see the pins are a little higher seated
Here’s the 5600 compared to the stock (the pins on the 5600 are tweaked from trying to connect it to the factory plug)…. You’ll also see the capacitor (or resistor?) on the factory harness adaptor which makes me pause with the common ground of the rear speakers and replacing them on the factory head unit signal without an aftermarket amp attached (last thing I want is to fry the head unit at high volumes with changing the impedance, etc)…. Anybody with more recent car audio experience than I have any thoughts on this? Not sure if I’m overthinking it (but it’s back to the land of research to make sure I’m approaching this correctly)
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Thanks for posting all this information! I'm going to try to upgrade my speakers soon. I have no clue about car audio systems so this info helps a lot. I need something that's just plug a play without having to add anything or run new wires. Quick question with the front door speakers you used. What did you do to shave the foam down to the right size? Just a boxcutter or knife?
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