Sponsored

Help with Kicker Key 200.4 & 500.1 install

SkeWest

2.0L EcoBoost
Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Threads
1
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Location
Kansas City
Vehicle(s)
2024 Maverick XLT Tremor
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
I’ve installed both Kicker amps. The 200.4 is behind the glove box and the 500.1 behind the rear seat. I installed the 200.4 first and everything works great. I then installed the 500.1. I put a Y in the front speaker wires before going into the 200.4 to use as inputs for both amps. The sub puts out nothing when in high level input mode. It will put out sound in low level input mode but it’s not as much as it should be. I know several people have split the front speakers with good luck. I’m not sure if my issue would be solved by having both amps behind the rear seat so that the wires are split for a shorter run? I called Kicker and they said I shouldn’t split the input and if I want both amps I could turn off the fader on the 200.4 and feed all front and rear speakers off 1 input and use the other for the 500.1. The issue I see with that is the input would be from the rear channel and several on here have said not to use the rear channel for the sub. Correct?
I’ll happily take any input that anyone has. If I can’t figure it out I’ll ditch the 200.4 and keep the 500.1 and sub.
Thanks!!
Sponsored

 

colinl

2.0L EcoBoost
Well-known member
First Name
Colin
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Threads
32
Messages
5,440
Reaction score
6,178
Location
ICT
Vehicle(s)
'22 Maverick Lariat AWD, '22 Bronco OBX 2-Door
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
Clubs
 
I have a B&O system so I haven't personally done this, but I planned for it because I did have an XLT on order at one time. I know people have the same amp combo but I don't know if anyone has been successful just splicing with a Y adapter like you mentioned. I do know that people have used plugnplaykits and other custom T harnesses.

I would do this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPHFD31/PAC-LPHFD31-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC5IPRO/AudioControl-LC5iPRO-Line-Output-Converter.html

If there's no room for the LC5i up front, you'll have to choose whether to use long rcas between it and the amps, or between it and the T harness (PAC makes an extension kit, Crutchfield has it). The only real caution is using accubass and the Key 500.1 both. If you make any adjustments with with accubass you'll need to run the Key 500.1 auto dsp setup again. You'll probably have to experiment to find out what works best.

You could try it with only the t harness because the key 500.1 does have its own dsp, and it's capable of some amount of anti-EQ just like what accubass is doing. My Key 500.1 works great, but it's coming from my factory B&O 6x9 'sub' speaker output which has a 35hz high pass on it. Way lower frequency than the rear pillar speakers are crossed at - they're like 350-500 hz for rear fill.
 

colinl

2.0L EcoBoost
Well-known member
First Name
Colin
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Threads
32
Messages
5,440
Reaction score
6,178
Location
ICT
Vehicle(s)
'22 Maverick Lariat AWD, '22 Bronco OBX 2-Door
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
Clubs
 
Another thing I've never done is use forscan to remove the limits from the factory rear speakers. There are a number of threads about that. Once that's done, you could probably tap the 500.1 off the rear speakers and get a good result since it has DSP. (I doubt a regular amp would be sufficient.)
 
OP
OP

SkeWest

2.0L EcoBoost
Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Threads
1
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Location
Kansas City
Vehicle(s)
2024 Maverick XLT Tremor
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
Thanks for that. I didn’t realize forscan could change the rear limits. That’s definitely an option.
BTW, I did use the PAC wiring harness. It’s great but really not designed for 2 amps.
I did manage to get my setup working, though it’s not how it’s supposed to be done on the setup. I’ve got the 500.1 set on low level input and then raised the gain enough to get the sub response I want. Seems to be working pretty well.
Thanks!
 

Sponsored

colinl

2.0L EcoBoost
Well-known member
First Name
Colin
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Threads
32
Messages
5,440
Reaction score
6,178
Location
ICT
Vehicle(s)
'22 Maverick Lariat AWD, '22 Bronco OBX 2-Door
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
Clubs
 
welcome. you could probably just disconnect the rear speakers entirely and run the 200.4 in bi amp mode to front components.
 

AF Blue

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2023
Threads
13
Messages
550
Reaction score
769
Location
US
Vehicle(s)
NA
Engine
Undecided
Clubs
 
Thanks for that. I didn’t realize forscan could change the rear limits. That’s definitely an option.
BTW, I did use the PAC wiring harness. It’s great but really not designed for 2 amps.
I did manage to get my setup working, though it’s not how it’s supposed to be done on the setup. I’ve got the 500.1 set on low level input and then raised the gain enough to get the sub response I want. Seems to be working pretty well.
Thanks!
Glad you got it working ... but I'm curious ...
On the 500.1 .. is your input level button depressed in (hi) or out (low) ?
From your post seems it is not depressed in.

The confusion over the rear speaker outputs hit me too.
Had not tried Forscan.
What Kicker told you shouldn't be done, I did :)

I won't mess with mine again until i get components and go bi-amp (if ever that happens).
 
OP
OP

SkeWest

2.0L EcoBoost
Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Threads
1
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Location
Kansas City
Vehicle(s)
2024 Maverick XLT Tremor
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
I tried hi (definitely in) but got no sound at at all. With low I had something but it was very low based on doing the gain match and setup. I believe it was you I had asked about the splitting the inputs and I know it worked for you. It seems the main difference between your and my setups are that both of your amps are behind the rear seat and my 200.4 is behind the glovebox and 500.1 behind the rear seat. I wonder if the smaller distance with the inputs split is the difference? Mine splits under the dash and runs to the back wall for the 500.1.
Sponsored

 
 







Top