Help with connecting B&O sub wiring to HS10

[Robmac]

I’ve found some really useful info here about upgrading B&O speakers but I’m left with a question about connecting my HS10 to the B&O sub. Apologies if I have missed this in the threads already on here. I plan to remove the original B&O sub and use that as the speaker-level input to the HS10. I see that the HS10, expecting a stereo, input from a left and right speaker in a normal installation.

As I will only have the mono input that originally went to the B&O sub, would I split it and connect the mono supply to both the left and right channels on the HS10, or will the HS10 take a mono speaker level input by bridging between, as an example, left + and Right - input terminals. If anyone could share how they did this would be really helpful.

As a separate thing, if anyone has recommendations for some front component speakers and center speaker replacement that are decent without breaking the bank that would be awesome.

I see that replacement center speakers are the wrong impedance compared to the original and may cause the center speaker to be louder. Wondered how that works out.

Thanks in advance

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[oysterville]

Just use the existing sub inputs and wire to either left or right on HS10.

There's a ton of discussion on other user experiences with speaker choices that can be found by using the search feature of the forum software.

 

[Robmac]

Just use the existing sub inputs and wire to either left or right on HS10.

There's a ton of discussion on other user experiences with speaker choices that can be found by using the search feature of the forum software.

Thanks for responding. I had imagined I would only get 1/2 power by only feeding either the left or right input. I had assumed the in built amp in the HS10 needed a stereo input and has a bridged mono output. seems it doesn’t work that way.

 

[TruckPrius]

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/taco-truck-prius-truckprius.40644/post-819710

Darn thing blew out on me 8 months later but warranty covered it minus shipping the old one to them.

I used the Pac APH-FD02 harness to split off the sub wiring and feed both the existing sub and the HS10.

 

[colinl]

some slightly confusing terminology here, but if you use the speaker output from the B&O 6x9 'sub' you can definitely take that into either left or right channels on the HS10 and it will perform just fine. you can splice into the harness or you can take it apart where it comes into the factory 6x9 enclosure and get the positive and negative wires there, without splicing.

the HS10 will get a 35hz high pass filter, but I personally think that's well suited to what the HS10 can actually do, anyway.

 

[Robmac]

some slightly confusing terminology here, but if you use the speaker output from the B&O 6x9 'sub' you can definitely take that into either left or right channels on the HS10 and it will perform just fine. you can splice into the harness or you can take it apart where it comes into the factory 6x9 enclosure and get the positive and negative wires there, without splicing.

the HS10 will get a 35hz high pass filter, but I personally think that's well suited to what the HS10 can actually do, anyway.

Thanks for the confirmation. It’s been a long time since I messed around with car stereos, so my terminology is probably way off, or at least outdated.

I was just surprised that you could feed the speaker supply from the B&O 6 x 9 into just one channel of the HS10 and it would still perform OK. I assumed I had to split that and put it into the left and right channel inputs or make some change on the HS10 so that it knew to treat that mono input correctly.
I remember back in the day they used the term bridging where you would connect a mono input or output to/from an amp across the left and right channel and sometimes had to move a switch on the amp to tell it to expect a mono input. Normally you used to connect Just the far left and far right speaker terminals of the 4, so you’d be connected to right positive and left negative or, vice versa, and ignore the two terminals in the center. That would ensure the amp used both left and channels internally. I guess with the HS100 being mono to start with it’s different, and I’m over complicating it.
The 35 Hertz filter doesn’t sound like it would be an issue. I can’t see an HS100 being very capable below that level anyway.
I read somewhere on here, that the pigtail harness, that they supply with the truck, which I think is designed to connect for power in the bed will also fit the plug that goes to the B&O 6 x 9. I’ll check that today as I have two of those pigtails kicking around. Would be nice if I don’t have to de-pin, cut or splice into anything..
Thanks again for the help

 

[colinl]

The 35 Hertz filter doesn’t sound like it would be an issue. I can’t see an HS100 being very capable below that level anyway.

yep. if you have a high performance, high powered sub in an enclosure under the rear bench you would want to deal with the filter to hit really low, but I sure wouldn't worry about restoring the sub 35hz range with a hs10. (and I think the hs10 is a good powered sub, in case I'm not coming off that way.)

 

[Robmac]

yep. if you have a high performance, high powered sub in an enclosure under the rear bench you would want to deal with the filter to hit really low, but I sure wouldn't worry about restoring the sub 35hz range with a hs10. (and I think the hs10 is a good powered sub, in case I'm not coming off that way.)

Totally understand. The HS10 seems to give a decent bit of bass punch that the 6 x 9 ‘sub’ is lacking, but I’m not expecting it to shake the windows. The storage space under the seat is important to me. Otherwise I would go with something better.

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