Green oil

[thev8man]

Hey all need education here possibly? I'm seeing a lot of posts about people changing their break in oil when their truck is bought new .saying the oil is " green" inferring it's " bad". Isn't the oil supposed to look like that and isn't it supposed to stay in the engine for 5000 miles? Some are draining that oil at less than 1000 miles,might be harming the engine?

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[Silver23]

Hey all need education here possibly? I'm seeing a lot of posts about people changing their break in oil when their truck is bought new .saying the oil is " green" inferring it's " bad". Isn't the oil supposed to look like that and isn't it supposed to stay in the engine for 5000 miles? Some are draining that oil at less than 1000 miles,might be harming the engine?

Agreed, if it is indeed "break in oil" it sure seems it should be in there more than 1000 miles or 500 or...
I just did my first oil change at 6k (when the truck said it was due) and it wasn't very dirty and it wasn't green.

 

[Tim d]

Agreed, if it is indeed "break in oil" it sure seems it should be in there more than 1000 miles or 500 or...
I just did my first oil change at 6k (when the truck said it was due) and it wasn't very dirty and it wasn't green.

I did my first change at 5000 miles as Ford recommends.i plan on getting at least 10 more years out of my maverick.time will tell!

 

[Montana]

I don't mind seeing old topics brought up. I think some of the posters live on here too much and assume everyone has seen all the posts, or picks the right search terms.

It's not anything related to this at all.

OP's post history is public. Go check it out. They don't need "information". They actively refute it in many other threads they posted on with this topic and similar ones. Over 80% of their posts are disingenuous trolling attempts and jabs at whatever "information" is being discussed.

Some people just see through the BS. And yea, I'm here enough to see it.

 

[Superg0]

I'm asking for a reference.

Reference is “trust me bro!”

 

[MaxMav]

I think you

No matter what anyone says about early changing of engine oil. I‘M GONNA CHANGE IT. Everything is “breaking in” - knurl cylinder walls, rings, cam n lifters, bearings and seals. Yea, seals. Oil analysis reveals metals and compositions of seals . All this stuff slows down, minimized over time, mileage.

I think you may mean crosshatching on the cylinder walls , if they were knurled you would have a serious problem with oil consumption, low compression etc. Just trying to get the terminology correct, so just google 'knurl' to see what I'm referring to.

 

[jfg6869]

I changed my EB at 1k miles and it was quite green in color. Then my buddy, a former Ford service advisor, told me I shouldn't have done it that early as there are extra additives in the original oil and helps seat the rings. I traded that truck with 3500 miles on a 24 hybrid. 2200 miles on this one so far and plan to change at 5k.

 

[Tim d]

I changed my EB at 1k miles and it was quite green in color. Then my buddy, a former Ford service advisor, told me I shouldn't have done it that early as there are extra additives in the original oil and helps seat the rings. I traded that truck with 3500 miles on a 24 hybrid. 2200 miles on this one so far and plan to change at 5k.

Thx for the info!

 

[Montana]

I changed my EB at 1k miles and it was quite green in color. Then my buddy, a former Ford service advisor, told me I shouldn't have done it that early as there are extra additives in the original oil and helps seat the rings. I traded that truck with 3500 miles on a 24 hybrid. 2200 miles on this one so far and plan to change at 5k.

Aks them specifically what oil and what the extra additives that are used in it are. Then ask them for proof.

Because Blackstone has proved that to be BS. Just one post for proof:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ut-break-in-oil-in-the-2-0l.46798/post-819750

FORD is not using anything special.

It's not dye, it's not additives. It's just assembly lube/greases. There is nothing wrong with changing early. There is nothing wrong with running it for a normal interval.

Entirely too much bad info being passed around from someone that heard it from someone that heard it from someone that made it up.

 

[CajunMick]

I think you

I think you may mean crosshatching on the cylinder walls , if they were knurled you would have a serious problem with oil consumption, low compression etc. Just trying to get the terminology correct, so just google 'knurl' to see what I'm referring to.

Oh my bad. Yep, you right. Honed would be better word, that reveals crosshatching. My 77 yo brain misfiring.
When rebuilding engines, if piston to cylinder wall clearance was sloppy, we would “knurl“ the skirt of pistons using special knurling tool on a lathe to close that gap, to prevent piston slap.

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