How to you get it out ? I’m finding that at a certain point if the height is too tall it will catch the under part of the side bed and won’t come out.I had a couple 2x4s laying around. I hit them with some black wood preservative. Came out looking like a stain. Layed them in and inserted a shim to keep everything tight. Matches the Line-X pretty good. Groceries won't slide now.
See: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...e-try-bed-liner-spray-on-2x6.4418/post-210806
Not sure how it’ll do in actual use but I used yours for inspiration. The hinge will only let it fold in one direction so the direction I face them will depend on if what I have in the bed needs to stay near the cab or the tailgate. I used pressure treated lumber and just sprayed them a matte black. It definitely makes it easier to put in a solid board.Well, here is my take on the divider made from a 3/4' x 7.25" x 8' PVC board. It has hinges in the center and painted in rattle-can SIBL.
Thanks for all the necessary detail!Did a trial run of 2x6's as bed dividers prior to bedliner spray and scratch the OEM paint...as I anticipated. Maverick paint is easily scratched in the bed. Took some used straps and wrapped the ends with strap so its flexible to add or remove strap as padding as bedliner is installed....makes snug fit that's easy to adjust and not scratch the bedliner or paint.
Holding 2x6 in place I used Harbor Freight magnet strips (US General - 18" magnetic strips) which carry about a 10 pound strength and cheap at $1.50 @ with coupons. Placed a magnetic strip above each 2x6 and their not going to move or bounce, takes brute strength to pull the magnetic strips off the bed's steel siding.. Screwed a magnetic strip to the side of the vertical 2x6 to hold an old junk pile "shelf rack"...making the metal rack removable since it's held on solely by the magnets, works well making it modular. Pictures attached.
Was going to do a "rack rail" on both sides of the bed but once I got the Maverick I could see the pre-drilled holes are drilled into structural members and are plenty strong as tie downs without a rail. Amazon is a no brainer to get 8mm 1/2 stainless steel bolds and variety of single bolt hooks, not easy to find at hardware stores (chose hooks with maximum of 300lb strength (the lowest) hoping they will break-away before the bed siding frame bends. Tie downs & bolts were around...$19.00 for everything. Highly recommend putting in the bolts (ONLY) before getting a bedliner sprayed in...then back them out to install hooks...putting bolts in thru the bedliner filled holes would be a major project for a household level drill and keeping bolts straight.
Cheap HF magnet bars holding 2x6 in place below. Bed is steel vs aluminum and even with the thick layer of bedliner the magnets hold with brute force.
Footnote: really like the Gator Tri-fold tonneau. Minutes to put on and take off with no tools and very light weight to haul....so for no leaks.
8mm x 1/2 long stainless steel bolts with tie down loops. Heavy duty loops are the largest ones to accept a typical ratchet strap hook. For really heavy cargo I will use the OEM floor loops, as in motorcycle hauling.
Harbor Freight magnet strips holding 2x6 down...
2 Magnet strips screwed into side of 2x6 to hold shelf rack...metal shelf can easily be pulled off when not needed.
Metal shelf magnetically attached...ain't going anywhere when hitting speed bumps with two 10lb of magnet strips holding it in place, unless I need to remove it.
