Factory cruise control enabled on XL with Forscan and Escape steering wheel

[Tyvemattis]

Did you put a torque wrench on the steering wheel nut or not? I plan on doing mine this weekend if I get the Forscan cable in before then, when I do I'll find out about what the factory torque is on the nut in Ft Lbs before dissassembly and post back.

Just get her nice and tight

Sponsored

 

[Bushpilot]

Did you put a torque wrench on the steering wheel nut or not? I plan on doing mine this weekend if I get the Forscan cable in before then, when I do I'll find out about what the factory torque is on the nut in Ft Lbs before dissassembly and post back.

I had it off before that thought crossed my mnd. Actually, I had it off, went to bed, woke up, had a cup of coffee, and read your post - and that is when that thought crossed my mind!

It was not a high torque, I would guess about 80 ft lbs to break it loose? I just used a 1/2 drive ratchet (15 inches long?) and no cheater or anything, and it came off without any drama.

Frankly, I don't see this as being torque critical, it just needs to be tight. I am going to add a drop of loctite as well.

 

[Kaytu]

I had it off before that thought crossed my mnd. Actually, I had it off, went to bed, woke up, had a cup of coffee, and read your post - and that is when that thought crossed my mind!

It was not a high torque, I would guess about 80 ft lbs to break it loose? I just used a 1/2 drive ratchet (15 inches long?) and no cheater or anything, and it came off without any drama.

Frankly, I don't see this as being torque critical, it just needs to be tight. I am going to add a drop of loctite as well.

Absolutely agree with this - the interface means the wheel isn't pressure-fitted onto the spindle, so if you happen to have the bolt begin to loosen, it's going to be apparent immediately and -long- before it's a hazard to you. The moment that bolt loosens you'll experience play in the wheel and know exactly what's up.

 

[Bushpilot]

Success!

I'll post a more detailed step-by-step tonight.

Is this the first hybrid XL with the cruise control?

 

[Maverick2022XL]

Absolutely agree with this - the interface means the wheel isn't pressure-fitted onto the spindle, so if you happen to have the bolt begin to loosen, it's going to be apparent immediately and -long- before it's a hazard to you. The moment that bolt loosens you'll experience play in the wheel and know exactly what's up.

It is like the saying goes no one has time to do it right but time to do it twice. That is why I am putting a torque wrench on mine before I loosen it. If my older F150 is any indication the nut should be torqued to somewhere between 30 and 45 ft lbs. I'll confirm that hopefully this weekend forscan cable arriving and weather permitting.

 

[Kaytu]

It is like the saying goes no one has time to do it right but time to do it twice. That is why I am putting a torque wrench on mine before I loosen it. If my older F150 is any indication the nut should be torqued to somewhere between 30 and 45 ft lbs. I'll confirm that hopefully this weekend forscan cable arriving and weather permitting.

And I totally support that too! Just want folks to know the design of the wheel gives you plenty of information long before a dangerous situation could occur! When you get the torque numbers, we'll all have it and be better for it, so thanks for adding to the building knowledge base!

 

[skinnyboy]

I've been watching this thread and would like to thank all the folks for the fantastic info., especially Tyvemattis! Absolutely outstanding, this will address about the only real shortcoming with the XL.

Since I was fortunate enough to get a VIN and build date time frame this week I went ahead and ordered the switches for the stock steering wheel from eastgatefordpartscanada.ca

Part Number	Part Name	Price	Quantity	Total
SW-8579-	Switch Assembly - Control	$20.19	1	$20.19
SW-8576-	Switch Assembly - Control	$90.44	1	$90.44

Hopefully this might help any Canadian XL owners with the addition, prices seemed reasonable.

 

[mangler]

I've been watching this thread and would like to thank all the folks for the fantastic info., especially Tyvemattis! Absolutely outstanding, this will address about the only real shortcoming with the XL.

Since I was fortunate enough to get a VIN and build date time frame this week I went ahead and ordered the switches for the stock steering wheel from eastgatefordpartscanada.ca

Part Number	Part Name	Price	Quantity	Total
SW-8579-	Switch Assembly - Control	$20.19	1	$20.19
SW-8576-	Switch Assembly - Control	$90.44	1	$90.44

Hopefully this might help any Canadian XL owners with the addition, prices seemed reasonable.

Thanks for the P/Ns. Lets hope by the time I get my hybrid the prices will still be similar. I see options prices are rising already on the Canadian Ford website, even with our dollar actually gaining ground...

 

[MaverickHybrid]

Success!

I'll post a more detailed step-by-step tonight.

Is this the first hybrid XL with the cruise control?

nope

 

[BlackXL]

In sport mode, the Hybrid does "shift". The idea would be to control that "shifting" via the paddles.

My outlander sport “shifts” it’s eCVT with paddle shifters. Thought it was a strange idea, but it is actually pretty nice in mountainous terrain.

 

[MaverickHybrid]

My outlander sport “shifts” it’s eCVT with paddle shifters. Thought it was a strange idea, but it is actually pretty nice in mountainous terrain.

This might be close to impossible to do without ECU reprogramming. Maybe just controlling L and D instead...

 

[Bushpilot]

My mega writeup ...

Edit: a few details have been added, I would be glad to add more pertinant details or links as suggested, especially pertaining to the use of Forscan for this purpose.

First, I must thank @Tyvemattis for his ground-breaking work. All I am doing here is documenting the process that worked for me.

This took me about four hours, I am sure I could do it in less than two now.

My vehicle is an XL hybrid, with CP-360.

The main points:

• Switches SW-8579 and SW-8576 (OR optionally a correct steering wheel with the switches installed)
• Forscan 2.3.45 (must be a licensed copy to write to modules, even the 2 month free license will work)
  • Edit: For hybrids, use https://forscan.org/download/FORScanSetup2.3.46.test20220126.exe
• OBDLinkEX, other adapters are not recommended
• Programming
  • SCCM - 724-02-01 1258 6820 3050
  • BCM - 726-04-05 CB28 8140 8872
  • IPC - no changes
  • ABS - 760-03-02 0200 0000 0573

The long version:

Tools needed - 15/16 socket, 10mm socket, small flat screwdriver, T8 torx screwdriver, and perhaps a few hand tools
Recommended - Loctite, torque wrench, 7mm socket (if removing clamshells)

Steps -

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal (under the rear seat for the hybrid, under the hood for the EB). Use a 10mm socket.
• Adjust the steering wheel position to full extension, to gain space between it and the dash.
• (Note: see posts following about not needing to remove the clamshells. This would save a few steps, but I will leave my method here for reference. Steps in italics assume that you do dissassemble the clamshells.)
• Gently pry apart the steering column upper clamshell from the lower.

• Remove the lower clamshell for the steering column. You need a 7mm socket for this, remove the two bolts and pull it aft and down.
• Turn the steering wheel 90° left or right. (It will be hard turning without power assist.)
• Look underneath, and on the forward side of the wheel you will see a slot. Insert the screwdriver in that slot, and pry "up" on the release, to release that side of the airbag.

• Turn the wheel 90° the other way and do it again. The airbag should come off.
• Remove the wires from the airbag. For the yellow and orange connectors, gently lift the orange section with a pick or tiny screwdriver to release, and after it is lifted, the connector can be removed. Set the airbag aside.

• Disconnect the black clockspring connector exiting the wheel through the top opening by inserting a small screwdriver into the top side and releasing.
• Remove the 15/16 inch bolt holding the wheel on. It is not as tight as I thought it would be.
• Remove the steering wheel, mine came off easily.
• Put a piece of tape across the clockspring to keep it from rotating out of position while you are doing other stuff. (Make sure you remove this later!)

• For removing and installing the switches, see the thread that @Tyvemattis wrote. https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...her-switches-such-as-cruise-control-diy.7358/ It is pretty straightforward. You will need a flat screwdriver and the T8 torx screwdriver to do this.
• Make sure that the wires are carefully tucked into place in the wheel, there are retainers for them.

Reassembly is basically the opposite of disassembly. I recommend you put loctite on the 15/16 bolt thread, it had it from the factory. @kingranchero recommends 35 lb-ft of torque, I just torqued it tight.

If you removed the clamshells, when putting them back together, be sure to get all the various "tabs" engaged. Install the lower first, starting with the forward end, getting the tabs on the rail, then hinge the upper into place. Pay close attention to the areas circled below.

After it is all put together, reconnect the battery, and program.

I am not going to get into the details of using Forscan, there are tutorials available. See the top of this post for parameters needed/suggested.

I tried to enter the IPC codes suggested by @Tyvemattis at the top of this thread
(https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...an-and-escape-steering-wheel.7287/post-151787), but they would not write. It works fine anyway. (My first one as-built was a match for his recommended already.)

The system will set a few DTCs (primarily when the vehicle wakes up with different parts installed), make sure you clear them after all is finished. (Don't sweat this, it wasn't a big deal, you would never know if Forscan didn't tell you.)

That is all I can think of right now, I hope this helps!

Oh, and if this works for you, please consider buying a paid license for Forscan, they deserve it.

Greg

 

[Tyvemattis]

I have yet to take the trim off around the steering wheel, but awesome write up! I don't have the time in the day to do a good one like that, but I got the need to know info up glad you joined the cruise control club

 

[MaverickHybrid]

Nice write up. Couple of observations. There is no need to remove the lower clamshell. Not a big deal, but just one less part to reassemble and what about a little carpet vacuuming for your hacked beauty queen?

 

[Bushpilot]

I have yet to take the trim off around the steering wheel ...

There is no need to remove the lower clamshell. Not a big deal, but just one less part to reassemble ...

Cool, good to know about the clamshells. I think that is the area most likely to be broken in the process anyway, so maybe most will choose to not remove it.

... and what about a little carpet vacuuming for your hacked beauty queen?

It's a country truck, not a city truck, and I was tromping through dirt, snow, and mud doing this job. And it was raining. That's my story, and I am sticking to it.

But I vacuumed immediately after finishing the job, apparently I should have done that before!

Sponsored