Eibach Lowering Springs Installed

[clos0791]

2023 Lariat Eco AWD Alto Blue

Finally installed the lowering springs. The rear was super easy, the front was more time consuming but not bad. About 6 hours all together. The ride is the same as stock, smooth, no rubbing, no noises, and it handles better. I also like how it is not too low, just right for me. Still need an alignment. About three inches in rear and two inches up front. No issues going over speed bumps or up on driveways. It is also easier to load and unload stuff because the bed sits lower. I kept my OEM springs in case I need to go back to stock. Thanks for reading.

Sponsored

 

[Pete Roberts]

I lowered my 2024 Ecoboost XL and I agree rides great. I vintage race a 66 Cortina and it pulls a trail just as good as my 2010 Ranger with 4.0 V6 5 speed.

 

[klutch14u]

Very nice, I have springs sitting in my wife's office, just trying to get the time to do it. Everything I've read/seen, nobody talked about torquing the bolts back down. Was that needed? Can you share what bolts need to be torqued and what that spec is?

 

[clos0791]

Very nice, I have springs sitting in my wife's office, just trying to get the time to do it. Everything I've read/seen, nobody talked about torquing the bolts back down. Was that needed? Can you share what bolts need to be torqued and what that spec is?

I have the Eco AWD. The rear may be different for non AWD.

In the rear,
81 lb.ft for the shock absorber upper and lower bolt and nuts connected to the lower control arm. 81 lb.ft as well for the lower control arm to the wheel knuckle bolt and nut.

In the front:
stabilizer bar link upper nut 81 lb.ft, lower nut 85 lb.ft.
For the strut rod nut, 41 lb.ft. Will need a spring compressor to remove stock springs.
Strut and Spring assembly bolts (3, under the hood, in engine compartment), 22 lb.ft.
Strut and Spring assembly-to-wheel knuckle bolts and nuts (2), 103 lb.ft.

Wheel lug nut torque, 148 lb.ft.

 

[Jamsandolina]

I have the Eco AWD. The rear may be different for non AWD.

In the rear,
81 lb.ft for the shock absorber upper and lower bolt and nuts connected to the lower control arm. 81 lb.ft as well for the lower control arm to the wheel knuckle bolt and nut.

In the front:
stabilizer bar link upper nut 81 lb.ft, lower nut 85 lb.ft.
For the strut rod nut, 41 lb.ft. Will need a spring compressor to remove stock springs.
Strut and Spring assembly bolts (3, under the hood, in engine compartment), 22 lb.ft.
Strut and Spring assembly-to-wheel knuckle bolts and nuts (2), 103 lb.ft.

Wheel lug nut torque, 148 lb.ft.

Where did you get those numbers from if you don't mind me asking. Those will be helpful to me since I just lowered my maverick too. But I too have a fwd version so the rear numbers won't be accurate for us. Thanks

 

[klutch14u]

I have the Eco AWD. The rear may be different for non AWD.

In the rear,
81 lb.ft for the shock absorber upper and lower bolt and nuts connected to the lower control arm. 81 lb.ft as well for the lower control arm to the wheel knuckle bolt and nut.

In the front:
stabilizer bar link upper nut 81 lb.ft, lower nut 85 lb.ft.
For the strut rod nut, 41 lb.ft. Will need a spring compressor to remove stock springs.
Strut and Spring assembly bolts (3, under the hood, in engine compartment), 22 lb.ft.
Strut and Spring assembly-to-wheel knuckle bolts and nuts (2), 103 lb.ft.

Wheel lug nut torque, 148 lb.ft.

Absolutely perfect, thank you! I wish people with 'how-to's' would post this info.

 

[clos0791]

Where did you get those numbers from if you don't mind me asking. Those will be helpful to me since I just lowered my maverick too. But I too have a fwd version so the rear numbers won't be accurate for us. Thanks

I got them from someone here on this forum. They come from the Ford Maverick manual. It also says that you must discard the OEM bolts and nuts and purchase new ones. I just re-used the OEM ones. I didn’t see a need to buy new ones.

 

[clos0791]

Absolutely perfect, thank you! I wish people with 'how-to's' would post this info.

Thanks, I posted pics of the torque specs on slide #7.

 

[Jamsandolina]

I got them from someone here on this forum. They come from the Ford Maverick manual. It also says that you must discard the OEM bolts and nuts and purchase new ones. I just re-used the OEM ones. I didn’t see a need to buy new ones.

Awesome. Thank you. Yes that is very weird that they want you ro replace most of the bollts.....crazy.

 

[clos0791]

Awesome. Thank you. Yes that is very weird that they want you ro replace most of the bollts.....crazy.

Also, you want to tighten/torque rear bolts with the weight of the truck on the ground to avoid damaging the shock bushings. Hope this helps, take care.

 

[Jamsandolina]

Also, you want to tighten/torque rear bolts with the weight of the truck on the ground to avoid damaging the shock bushings. Hope this helps, take care.

Are you talking about the rear shock lower bolts? The top doesn't have any bushings. I've never heard of that personally. How do the bushings get damaged by tightening/torque them not with the weight of the vehicle? I have a FWD maverick. Trying to educate myself? Thanks

 

[clos0791]

Are you talking about the rear shock lower bolts? The top doesn't have any bushings. I've never heard of that personally. How do the bushings get damaged by tightening/torque them not with the weight of the vehicle? I have a FWD maverick. Trying to educate myself? Thanks

Yes, rear shock lower bolts. The bushings will bind if you torque them before putting the weight of the vehicle on the ground. It's in the manual.

I also did many lifts on my Jeeps over the years and it is well known that any suspension components with bushings, such as lower and upper control arms, shocks, etc. Need to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the ground.

I'm the Maverick shocks will be okay if you don't do this but they tend to wear out faster when they are in a bind.

Thanks.

 

[clos0791]

Yes, rear shock lower bolts. The bushings will bind if you torque them before putting the weight of the vehicle on the ground. It's in the manual.

I also did many lifts on my Jeeps over the years and it is well known that any suspension components with bushings, such as lower and upper control arms, shocks, etc. Need to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the ground.

I'm sure the Maverick shocks will be okay if you don't do this but they tend to wear out faster when they are in a bind.

Thanks.

 

[Jamsandolina]

Yes, rear shock lower bolts. The bushings will bind if you torque them before putting the weight of the vehicle on the ground. It's in the manual.

I also did many lifts on my Jeeps over the years and it is well known that any suspension components with bushings, such as lower and upper control arms, shocks, etc. Need to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the ground.

I'm the Maverick shocks will be okay if you don't do this but they tend to wear out faster when they are in a bind.

Thanks.

Good to know. Thanks

 

[colinl]

Are you talking about the rear shock lower bolts? The top doesn't have any bushings. I've never heard of that personally. How do the bushings get damaged by tightening/torque them not with the weight of the vehicle? I have a FWD maverick. Trying to educate myself? Thanks

I would assume he's actually meaning the sway bar endlink bolts, as they do have bushings and you will have problems trying to torque them with the suspension unloaded.

it will be very hard to get under there with the truck literally on the ground so I would suggest using ramps and of course placing jackstands under and chocks on the rear wheels.

Sponsored