Does your Maverick have a jack?

[Carlitos_92]

Gotta love ppl second-guessing engineers ...

Wheel studs on the Maverick are 14mm, not 12mm like most cars and small SUVs ... bigger fasteners need more torque to achieve the correct clamping force - if you don't strain the stud enough, the nut is at risk of loosening
https://www.atlascopco.com/en-ca/it...-the-recommended-maximum-torque-for-your-bolt

Don't particularly care what size the stud is, and my nuts aren't at risk of loosening, but ok.

Sponsored

 

[Art Vandelay]

I have a 2022 Mustang GT Convertible that also did not come with a spare. Instead Ford added a 12V inflator and sealant kit. The Mustang when ordered new does have a stand alone option to add a spare tire for about $600.

I'm surprised that they removed the spare tire from the Maverick though, I would think a truck should have a spare tire. For the Mustang Ford sells a spare tire kit for $300.

They should at least offer an option like that for those who want a spare.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

They should at least offer an option like that for those who want a spare.

They do, option 51D, for those combinations that do not come with a spare as standard equipment

HRG

 

[HeyBales]

Generally, you should not grease or lubricate wheel nuts (lug nuts) or studs. Doing so significantly lowers friction, which can cause you to accidentally over-tighten the nuts. This over-tightening stretches the studs, warps your brake rotors, and greatly increases the risk of wheel detachment. [1, 2, 3, 4]
For a clear visual breakdown of why lubricating wheel studs can alter torque values and cause safety issues:
57s



NEVER Lubricate Wheel Studs On Your Car!
YouTube · proclaimliberty2000

Why lubrication is risky
Wheel nuts are designed to be tightened "dry" according to the manufacturer's torque specifications. The friction of clean, dry threads is calculated into the exact amount of clamping force required to hold your wheel safely in place. If you add grease, oil, or anti-seize: [1, 2, 3]

• False Torque Readings: Your torque wrench will click at the specified setting, but the reduced friction will cause the nut to travel much further.
• Damaged Studs: Over-stretching the metal can permanently damage or snap the lug studs.[1, 2]

The best practice

• Keep them clean: Instead of greasing them, make sure the threads and mating surfaces are clean, dry, and free of dirt, debris, and major rust. You can use a wire brush to gently clean off any surface rust. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
• Torque properly: Always tighten your lug nuts using a calibrated torque wrench in a crisscross or star pattern to the manufacturer's exact specifications found in your vehicle's owner manual. [1, 2, 3]

When to make an exception
Some industrial or off-roading applications allow lubrication, but this requires manually reducing your torque specifications by about 20% to 25% to account for the reduced friction.

I only commented on that older thread due to this one going in to NOT following the manual spec.

Only if you plan on going below stated torque (148 to 111 is exactly 25% reduction), would it make sense to lube for exactly the reasons given.

Or do it dry and just go lower but equal, and check frequently. As many are stating.

The other problem with lube though - gotta keep stuff clean or it goes other direction of more friction when the grit gets in there.
Which is easy to do when wheel removed and working on the brakes. Nothing like a little brake dust in threads to make it very different!

 

[HeyBales]

Gotta love ppl second-guessing engineers ...

Wheel studs on the Maverick are 14mm, not 12mm like most cars and small SUVs ... bigger fasteners need more torque to achieve the correct clamping force - if you don't strain the stud enough, the nut is at risk of loosening
https://www.atlascopco.com/en-ca/it...-the-recommended-maximum-torque-for-your-bolt

True.

But it also can't be assumed that what the engineer said should be done - is what ended up in the manual.

Several layers of people in there - besides good ole' human error - have shown up between the engineers and what's stated in the manual.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

We could say worthless. AMIRITE?

I just saw this comment.

All I can say is:

Just another reason.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

That's a valid statement

Which statement?

 

[DinoLord]

Anything larger than a 60R17 would negatively impact the functional depth of the trailer hitch. I have one hitch ball that already hits the spare tire before I can get the pin inserted.

I have a 225/65R17 spare and no issues with the random ball mounts used or my B&W multi-ball.

 

[Tbone91]

I have a 225/65R17 spare and no issues with the random ball mounts used or my B&W multi-ball.

Good to know!

 

[KO Stradivarius]

True.

But it also can't be assumed that what the engineer said should be done - is what ended up in the manual.

Several layers of people in there - besides good ole' human error - have shown up between the engineers and what's stated in the manual.

Sure, there can be errors in the Owner's Manual. But the engineer typically signs off on it, and something like a lug nut torque would be more difficult to get wrong because torques are fed from directly from the CAD data, which the engineer creates and is cross-checked by other activities such as plant vehicle mfg, etc.

 

[Aleks]

Sure, there can will be errors in the Owner's Manual. But the engineer AI typically signs off on it...

soon to be..

 

[Cancunbadlands]

Which statement?

The one back in the OP

 

[tiktokbrainrot]

Sure, there can be errors in the Owner's Manual. But the engineer typically signs off on it, and something like a lug nut torque would be more difficult to get wrong because torques are fed from directly from the CAD data, which the engineer creates and is cross-checked by other activities such as plant vehicle mfg, etc.

It also has to pass by Upper Manglement, and that is where things get cut down on.

Sponsored